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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • at idle, my 2000 Wrangler six auto rpm will go up several hundred rpm and then come back to about 900. Kind of pulsating. I need to keep the brake depressed firmly or it will actually go ahead. Does it in park as well

    Any help?
  • Hello,
    I have a 2002 wrangler with the 4.0 engine + a/c serpentine belt needs replaced. Chilton manual - not very helpful anybody have experience with this? is there a spring-loaded tensioner or adjuster bolt? any info would be helpful THANKS!
    m.t.
  • Is the "check engine" light on?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's easier to show you than to explain. Your's should be the automatic tensioner shown here but pre '00 models use a manually adjusted one.

    image
  • Thanks Mac! is this page out of the oem manual? do tell...
    I've quite a bit of experience with gm products - not so much with chrysler/jeep.
    We used to be able to change out a belt like this without really "removing" the tensioner - just springing it + holding in place. is this possible here? do tell...
    and Thank you again
  • aliebhartaliebhart Posts: 1
    :confuse: I have a 98 wrangler tj sport, and when i went to remove the doors the nuts broke right off of the bolt on the door hinges (breaking the actual long bolt through the hinge) am I going to have to get whole new hinges... or is there someplace i can just get the new nut and bolt somewhere!?

    Thanks!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Thanks Mac! is this page out of the oem manual?

    Yes, it's from the '02 FSM.
  • I have combustion gas leakage into the cooling system after the engine runs about
    60 minutes, so I thought I may have a loose bolt, but no manual, and I am over in the Middle East, so I need to know what torque I should look for on my torque wrench when I test the head bolts
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    100ft.lbs. Good luck.
  • My jeep had been sitting for like 3 years because it broke down and I just bought a new truck. now I want to get it running again. I replaced the starter and the clutch slave cylinder. Now I just need a rear drive shaft. When I start it it sounds like there is a leak in the intake or something like that and I get an error code 25. It says nothing about fixing this in my jeep manual. I can not find any repair online can someone help me?
  • 25** A shorted or open condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits. Actual idle speed does not equal target idle speed.
  • rtrunrrtrunr Posts: 1
    I operate this jeep on my mail route and have developed a vibration (like driving over a washboard) that starts at 45 MPH and gets progressively worse the faster you go. I just had the tires balanced not too long ago (but will do again) but I have felt THAT sort of shimmy (side-to-side) before and the tire re-balance eliminated that problem. This vibration is real different more of an up-and-down vibration. My mechanic drove it and can't figure it out. I really need some good advice on what this problem might be. Thank you.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    This vibration is real different more of an up-and-down vibration.

    Can only guess of course, but it sounds like a tire problem. Probably one of the belts has separated which will require replacement of the affected tire.
  • No the check engine light is not on.
  • xlcr123xlcr123 Posts: 2
    i have a 1997 jeep tj..hard top full metal doors..doors leak also..since day one..the defroster.dosent work or center vents?..and no recall..go figure
  • after new tune up, still only getting 10 miles per gallon, any idea why?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Could be anything from a bad O2 sensor to binding brakes.
    What did the 'tune up' consist of?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Do you have stock tires or larger ones? If larger ones, you need to change the speedometer gear in the transfer case to accurately reflect speed and mileage. Your mileage may not be as bad as you think.

    -Paul
  • I have at 2005 Wrangler X 6cy and the AC fan does not blow. The ac compressor works fine because I can turn the AC on and if going 65 or so down the freeway some air will blow through the system and it is nice and cold. Unfortunately when stopped at a light or 35 no air will blow through the system.
    I had a problem before where the AC only blew through the defrost vent on High. When I had it repaired the guy said it was a vacuum hose that came off. I referred to a message on this board,#1242, but that did not do the trick. Any Ideas?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Could be a faulty blower, resistor pack, or control switch, but most likely it's just a blown fuse.
  • tyoshutyoshu Posts: 31
    i have an 06 Rubicon and it is time to get new tires. Can i get some recommendations for a new set. It is my daily driver but i do go off road occasionally. Thanks for the help.
  • captjaxcaptjax Posts: 3
    Hi there,

    I drive a 2003 Wrangler SE (standard trans) with about 40,000 miles on it. Since I bought the car, I noticed it doesn't really like the AC running. When you activate the AC, you can see and feel the RPMs fall. If you're at speed, you can feel the car start pulling power to run the AC. It's much more pronounced than any other car I've ever owned. Sure, it's a 4 cylinder, but is this normal?

    Aside from that, today I got stuck in traffic both to and from work (really fun with a manual transmission...). On the way home, I was idling along and the car was really struggling. RPMs would drop below 600 every so often and I thought she was going to die on me. Also, shifting between first and second would sometimes cause a major hesitation.

    So I turned off the AC/fan and she ran rough the rest of the way home, once nearly dying while I waited at a stoplight.

    Any ideas? I just had a full tune up complete with a fuel system flush. Fuel filter is out of the question as it's under the gas tank. So what else could it be? This is my third summer with it and it's always kind of rode rough with the AC on, just not this bad...
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The 4cyl 2.4, although better than the earlier 2.5, really doesn't have much power to spare at the best of times and the a/c imposes a significant load when engaged. As with most vehicles, the idle speed is supposed to increase when the a/c is turned on in order to cope with that load.

    However your problem isn't the a/c, it's the engine, as indicated by the fact it was running rough after the a/c was turned off.

    You say "Fuel filter is out of the question as it's under the gas tank" (actually it's in the gas tank), but I'm not sure what you mean. The filter is part of the pump and either could be the problem.
    You may also have one of the many sensors on the engine starting to fail.

    Start by seeing if there are any codes being held (no check light doesn't necessarily mean no codes), and you could also look at fuel pressure and volume.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Symptoms sound like my TPS issue I had a while back...

    But the SE's never had power. A/C sucks when it blows. :) Sucks any power you may have had as it blows the cold air...

    -Paul
  • captjaxcaptjax Posts: 3
    The lack of power is amazing. I was lured by the mileage on an 03 (17,000 when I bought in late 06).

    That said, getting someone to check the codes -- can that be done at any auto store or do I have to take it in to a mechanic. I usually do most work myself but I've never had to have codes checked.
  • dcook79dcook79 Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 four cylinder. I just put a motor in it. But when I unhooked the starter and alternator wires, I didnt mark where they go. If somebody can explain what wires go on the starter and alternator, it would really help. Thats the last thing I need to hookup before its ready.

    Thanks,
    Dustin
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The lack of power is amazing......................That said, getting someone to check the codes -- can that be done at any auto store or do I have to take it in to a mechanic

    The only way it could be worse is if it was an auto. Auto + a/c + 4cyl = the ultimate on-road slug. ;)

    You can get it checked for codes at AutoZone for free.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Yeah, what he said. :)

    I have different gearing in my differentials. I'm running 33's and 4.88 gears. I drove from Cullman, AL to Huntsville, AL with my wife, son, after a day of wheeling. I had my offroad gear, 2 coolers, and the top up.

    Up and down rolling hills, we ran the A/C. I was able to maintain 65-75 without too much trouble.

    If your TJ is running any tires larger than the stock 29's, you may want to consider regearing. 31's or 32's I'd recommend 4.56 gears. 33's will want 4.88's.

    And the benefits offroad of regearing are even better! :)

    One thing I also did was some cooling system work. You may ask how this helps... well, my 97 was running the stock pump and I wasn't getting good flow to operate my climate controls very well. I replaced the thermostat, flushed the system, and found I had a water pump that was darn near impossible to turn even by hand. When I restarted the TJ, coolant POURED out.

    $35.00 later I installed the new pump and found a LOT less restriction on the belt and the engine seemed to not feel AS bogged down. It made a significant difference. Even my wife noticed.

    My A/C still sucks on the system pretty good, but it isn't anywhere NEAR what it was before I did the cooling work. May be worth a look to see when the last time stuff like that was done to your TJ.

    -Paul
  • jhamjham Posts: 2
    There is an inherent problem with older (late 1990 Wranglers) where the actuators that would direct heat and ac flow through the ducts would break off and no longer work. This would show up in the fact that air would not be directed where your settings indicate. There is heating and cooling, but just not distributed where it should be. This may be your problem. You need to check the air distribution/routing box between the firewall and the dash. It's hard to get to and expensive to fix, since it usually requires total replacement, since the individual damper closers that may be broken (cheap plastic) are not individually replacable. I've not heard of a vacuum hose issue, but check the actuators for the damper closers to see if this may be causing your problem.
  • jhamjham Posts: 2
    Also check your driveshaft. Sometimes these get bent when lifted improperly to change tires.
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