Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

1495052545561

Comments

  • maryp001maryp001 Posts: 4
    Hi. I have had a bunch of problems with my 1997 Wrangler lately.

    First, it would crank but not stay running unless I kept my foot on the gas. At the same time while driving, the battery gauge would shoot up to 19v and check gauge light would come on.

    The only trouble code from the PCM was the o2 sensor. Changed that along with a recall on the catilitic converter. (Alternater/regulater was fine). Changed the battery as well.

    Now it runs fine but battery gauge still shooting up to 19v every now and again.
    I have had it to 2 different Mechanics and they can't make it shoot up and there are no trouble codes.

    I have heard of a couple of people having the same issue although they sound unrelated, but have not heard out come.

    Any ideas?
  • rinski14rinski14 Posts: 2
    Hi! This is my first post and I hope you can help me as much as you've helped everyone else!

    I just made an appointment with a local mechanic to have a diagnostic done because the engine light just came on. Before I hear what he has to say, I wanted to get your opinion.

    For the past couple of months when I start my 2003 wrangler sport automatic v6 it makes this banging noise for a few seconds before it evens out.....then it drives fine. I didn't know if this is some type of misfire triggering the engine light.

    The only other problem I've had recently that might have contributed to the engine light is my battery dying due to leaving my sirius radio on (old battery....needs to be replaced). When i jumped it a couple days ago i had to leave my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling. I finally let it stall out and started it right back up and it was fine.

    Also, the Jeep dealer (they went out of business and i'm not gonna shed a tear because the mechanics were pushy and never did anything right!) said it was necessary to get a radiator flush for maintenance. At almost $300.00 I wanted to make sure I needed it before i did it. My jeep has 69,000 miles.

    Help! I'm not mechanically inclined so some guidence would be great. :blush:
  • mgarviemgarvie Posts: 17
    AC blower motor resistor is bad
  • rinski14rinski14 Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with both my AC and my heat in my 03.
  • crzntjcrzntj Posts: 2
    Thank you for the info. I've tried finding info for a Cat recall online, can't find anything so far. I do believe you though, I've heard a few people mention it. However, I did pass smog, so not sure if anything is wrong with Cat or not...would still like to have replaced if recalled.

    We did finally solve the issue with the Sputters and Stalls....for anyone else wondering, it ended up being a loose wire on the Crank Shaft Positioning Sensor. Fixed that and it runs like a champ once again!

    I had a 93 Cherokee automatic, a few years ago back that would suddenly stall and not restart for about 10 minutes. Chrysler couldn't tell me why this was happening, even though my life was in serious danger, as it would randomly stall even in the middle of the freeway!! One lady was killed in her Cherokee on the freeway due to a stall like this.

    This serious incident ended up being the Crank Shaft Positioning Sensor as well...Only a $100.00 part from the dealer!! Not worth one's life...very easy fix! For anyone else having similar problems...check it out.

    For some reason, Neither one of my vehicles would not show a code for this problem on the OBDII. But once replaced, they both ran perfect!
  • kufukufu Posts: 14
    I have 1999 Jeep Wrangler TJ, 2,5L 4 cyl. Two hoses are connected to the top of the valve cover. One of them has oil on itself on the bottom where hose go to the engine. Same rubber hose has plastic one inside. What is the name of that hose?
    So far not much drops of oil on the floor in my garage, but......
    Thanks,
  • kufukufu Posts: 14
    Hi,
    I just want to share this: JCWhitney sell Black 3" Diametar Side Step Rails a pair
    for total 143.98. Price is to good to pass it up.
  • kitrollkitroll Posts: 3
    Hi.. I have a 2003 jeep wrangler and i love it except it jerks really hard sometimes and after i drive it for over an hour or so and come to a stop and then go to take off it hesitates likes it out of gas or something. I want to fix it but nobody knows whats wrong with it .I took it to a tranmission shop who charged me 300.00 to clean all of those little parts and peices in there that worked for about two months , I always have the oil changed when i am suppose to , add fuel injecting cleaning stuff when i fill up with gas , I know nothing about this stuff but even my honey and his friends can't figure it out . please if anyone knows how to make this go away please let me it is driving me nuts!! :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Both hoses are crancase vent hoses. Hose #1 sucks oil fumes from the crankcase via the valve cover and into the engine to be burned. The oil fumes are replaced by clean air from the air filter via hose #2. The direction of flow is shown by the red arrows.

    image
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I took it to a tranmission shop who charged me 300.00 to clean all of those little parts and peices in there that worked for about two months

    It would appear that the problem is connected in some way with whatever the transmission shop worked on as they fixed it, if only for a couple of months.

    Go back to them and check what was actually done in detail.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Are you sure it is a transmission issue? Have you run by any local auto part stores like Auto zone to see if it is throwing any codes?

    Have you had your differentials (in the axles) and transfer case fluid changed any time recently?

    Opening up the differentials may tell you if you have gear damage at the axle itself.

    -Paul
  • kitrollkitroll Posts: 3
    i am so glad somebody responded thankyou last night i crawled under there and saw some wettness my honey has just said he will check the fluids but that wouldnt have anything to do with the hesitation after driving for long periods would.. sorry for all the stupid questions..
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    The wetness could be from humidity, condensation, or a leak. The hesitation sounds like the engine may be throwing some codes. That's why I suggest hitting up Autozone or a place to read any codes your OBDII is tracking.

    -Paul
  • kitrollkitroll Posts: 3
    ok sorry so i didn't tell you this but the check engine light did come on about a month ago on my to get oil changed then had codes read there was one which was something like fuel air metering they reset it and about a week later giving gas to get on highway it came on again so i changed the thermostat which was bad it came out in 4 pieces i reset it by disc the battery went back to auto zone the code was gone.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    To me, sounds like more of an issue with your engine vs your transmission.

    -Paul
  • jdljjdlj Posts: 1
    I have an 04 jeep wrangler unlimited 4.0 inline 6 cylinder, it has an airaid air filter, a throttle body lift, 33 inch tires, winch, warn bumpers around with tire carrier, a 2 inch body lift and a 2 inch suspension lift and I get between 16.5 - 17.5 mpg highway and around 15 city. I say all that to say that something doesnt seem right to me regarding your poor fuel mileage. I pulled a basstracker 17.5 foot boat to and all around Colorado and averaged 11 mpg.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    With your 33 inch tires, did you regear the differentials? If not, your speedometer (and odometer will be off). So you may be getting decent mileage (but don't expect GREAT mileage with 33's) but just don't realize it.

    There are a number of speedo gears available online. You need to check with the dealer for a gear that works with 33" tires and the gearing in your differential (likely 3.73).

    -Paul
  • I have a 2002 JEEP TJ. For the past month every once in a while it has had problems starting. It would start but it was struggling to start. Just last night it died. I try to start it and you can hear something turning but not connecting. I think I just need a new starter but I'm not sure and I don't want to buy one if that's not the problem. Does anyone have ANY idea what it could be?
  • We have a 97 Jeep wrangler. Ok so in the offroad course park last weekend my husband and I went through some pretty deep water in which the little hill at the beginning kinda made the hood & front in dip into the water first. A few minutes later it started cutting out and died. It started back up and died as soon as we started to take off. Since then it will either not start at all or die after a few minutes of idling or die when you start to drive it. We have hair dryed the rotor and distributor cap ( not sure if that is the right name and hubby isnt here) and that seemed to help make it run longer. Whenever it doesn't start it turns over but doesnt start. No fuses are blown under the hood except the cig lighter. My husband is notorious for guessing at what is wrong and fixing 10 things that are perfectly fine before finding the real problem so I just thought I would try to see if anyone might know... Any ideas?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    EXACT same thing happened to me. Check the Throttle Position Sensor behind the air intake at the top of the engine. Go to Autozone and have them read any codes. I'd be willing to bet the throttle position sensor is bad. It can be sensitive to water/mud.

    It's a 53.00 part or so and 10 minutes in the parking lot changing it out.

    As for the poster above you, check codes as well before doing anything. Your ODBII port should hold any codes as well, so before doing the part swap boogie, see if the Jeep is telling you anything.

    -Paul
  • tymerejtymerej Posts: 4
    Hey,

    I've a 97 jeep wrangler 4.0 Sport with 61,000 miles. Firstly, my check engine light comes and goes off seemingly at will. After driving for approx. 30 min on the interstate the transmission seems to start slipping. It doesn't accelerate when foot is on the gas. Act like it doesn't know which gear it wants to be in. It is a manual drive so shouldn't be transmission right? Sometimes when it gets really bad it starts to buck/jump/pop like there's bad gas in the tank. Took it to friend of a friend mechanic and was told it was the clutch. The guy started it, rocked back and forth on the clutch and annouced after a few minutes it the clutch because the clutch was too 'high' Mechanic asked if i smelled burnt smell when problem happened. Sometimes i do. Took it to Advance Auto Parts and guy said may be oxygen sensor. He asked if i notice burnt smell also. Said sensor needs to be replaced at 60,000 miles. Help, any thoughts? I will take to another Advance Auto Parts to have codes read as this location had its roll out computer stolen..........
  • have a sputter when going down the road just a light jolt here and there then got a light 02 sensor replaced it and still problem no light look at 02 no issues so then i begin the fun of tracing the issue i have replaced the following

    tsp, coil pack, plugs, ignition coil and coil sensor, oil change and filter, fuel additive,
    now into it for 1000.00 and still the same problem as i said it sputters just here and there just a light sputter but very noticeable any other ideas as i said no check engine lights on and ran computer on it and tested pressures and all show dead on help me please
  • I have seen thisin my old neon wastold both thesame things after doing the 02 it endedupbeing the clutch but he is right u should do 02 after 60000 miles not a bad idea i have oned jeeps my whole life i would suggest clutch and throw out barring
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Before doing anything, check the codes. It could be a number of things, but us web-wheelers are only guessing until the codes are known. Could be a mechanical issue or it could be a sensor/electronic issue. Knowing those codes will definitely help. AutoZone can read codes too.

    -Paul
  • tmastmas Posts: 8
    I have the '02 Sport Wrangler 4.0 with 91K on the odometer. I recognized that the transmission mount was worn and making noise so I bought one and went under to replace it. It turned out that the passenger side crossmember bolts(3) came right out but the driver's side spun in place! What can I do to fix or remedy this situation? The frame up under the crossmember/skidplate seems very rusty and I'd like to repair it. I need a durable fix for the bolts and fastening them with the crossmember into the frame. Anybody?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    After driving for approx. 30 min on the interstate the transmission seems to start slipping. It doesn't accelerate when foot is on the gas.

    If the engine revs increase but the Jeep doesn't accelerate then it's almost certain that the clutch is slipping.

    If your check engine light comes on a code will be set in the computer. On a '97 you can check it without a code reader.

    To determine which Diagnostic Trouble Code(s) are stored in the PCM of your '97 TJ:
    •
    Turn the ignition key to the "On" position three times in succession (i.e., On, Off, On, Off, On), within five seconds
    •
    The Malfunction Indicator (Check Engine) Lamp will flash the appropriate number of times to indicate the DTC number, with a short pause between the first and second digits (e.g., 2 flashes of the MIL, followed by a short pause, followed by 5 more flashes, indicates error code 25)
    •
    The appropriate DTC will also be displayed in the odometer window
    Note: All DTCs consist of 2 digits. If more than one DTC is stored in the PCM's memory, the procedure above will display all codes in succession. Regardless of how many codes are stored, Code 55 will always be the final code to be displayed. Code 55 indicates the "completion of the fault code display on the Check Engine lamp".


    Post any codes here or look them up on Google.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The frame up under the crossmember/skidplate seems very rusty and I'd like to repair it. I need a durable fix for the bolts and fastening them with the crossmember into the frame.

    I'm afraid there's no way to make a strong repair except to cut out the bottom (and maybe some of the sides if they're badly rusted) of the frame rail and weld in new metal complete with nuts for the cross-member bolts.

    Most welding shops should be able to handle it as the area is easily accessible and the metal is thick enough to weld easily. Use new bolts with plenty of anti-seize.

    This is not an uncommon problem with Wranglers, especially where salt is used on the roads. One of the first things I did with mine was to remove those bolts one at a time and anti-seize them. Ten years on and they still come out as if they were new.
  • the engine doesn't rev when trying to accelerate, it just sputters.....jumps and bucks when it is bad and i don't press the clutch...I took it to Advance Auto Parts when the check engine light is on and was given the code P0132 which says the O2 sensor is giving off high voltage reading the Advance guy said. what do you think? clutch?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .......................was given the code P0132 which says the O2 sensor is giving off high voltage reading the Advance guy said. what do you think?

    I think it's interesting that you were given an OBDII code (Pxxxx) from a vehicle with an OBDI PCM.
    Go back to the instructions in my previous post and pull up the code(s) yourself.
    As explained there, the '97 returns two digit codes. Post here what you get.
  • The only codes showing is the battery has been disconnected recently. We have now changed the rotor, distr. fuel pump and regulator and changed out the gas. It has been a month and now it either wont start or when it starts it dies after a while or dies when we try to take off.
Sign In or Register to comment.