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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • fedsfeds Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Jeep Wrangler with 135K miles and the check engine light came on, the code that came up is 12 and I belive it says that the Power Control Module has recently been disconnected. Where is that?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's the electronics box on the engine side of the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle.
    However, that code can also come upo if the battery has been recently disconnected too.
  • nav30nav30 Posts: 3
    my '97 started losing power when shifting through the gears and would not rev past 3,000 rpms. It would not do more than 55mph. Press the accelerator and ...nothing. It would spit and sputter a bit but, no increase in speed. This started after I noticed a noise coming from underneath which sounded like a broken clamp rattling on the exhaust pipe. After climbing underneath, the noise was coming from the muffler itself. Loose/broken baffle? Would this cause the loss in power and not allow the engine to rev? :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    This started after I noticed a noise coming from underneath which sounded like a broken clamp rattling on the exhaust pipe. After climbing underneath, the noise was coming from the muffler itself.

    Are you sure it was the muffler? While it could be a loose baffle, those are also the symptoms of a bad cat.
  • nav30nav30 Posts: 3
    thanks mac24. not a 100% sure so i'm going to replace the cat and muffler. I'll post the results.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    mac is pretty much dead on. If you take a rubber mallet to your catalytic converter (located pretty much directly under the passenger seat), and it sounds like marbles, you found your problem. A bad cat will suck power, and likely be cause for bad emissions. if your TJ is under 80,000 miles, I BELIEVE it is covered now, even being an older TJ... Check with your dealer.

    -Paul
  • anv1190anv1190 Posts: 4
    I have a '97 wrangler 4.0l 6cyl. When I turn the heat on its starts to make a wind up noise than sounds like a snap. I think the wiring is a bit messed up, but there is only on temp which is HOT! Theres also an ongoing sound of rocks rolling in what I think the two upper heaters above the radio? Any ideas to what the problem is or maybe a solution????
  • rhs243rhs243 Posts: 1
    PLEASE HELP!!! I have a 1999 jeep with a 2.5L. On Saturday it stopped running. All it would do is crank. I started to test it i tested the fuel it was good then the ignition and the wildest thing happened. I put a adjustable spark tester on the coil wire and the thing started right up. It had a great ark about a 1" long. I took the tester out and it would not start. put it back in and it ran great. took it out and put on a plug wire no spark! I'm pulling my hair out
    please help
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    not sure on the heat thing other than perhaps your cable on your slider for your HVAC isn't connected and it is stuck in the hot position.

    For the rattling, you may want to open up your dash and reach in there. You MAY have dirt/rocks, something in there that fell in while top was down/off. Those telescopic mirrors and a flashlight may help you look further down into the ventilation ducts.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Replace the coil wire. If that's not it, replace the coil. It'll be one or the other.
  • nworbekimnworbekim Posts: 17
    yah, i had the rattling start early in the winter, and as time went along, i'd find kernels of dog food laying in the floorboards, i figured the mice were carrying dog food from the pens into the wrangler...

    i set a few traps, caught a few, and it stopped... the rattling has stopped...
  • jeeper57jeeper57 Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 6cyl I hit a big chuck hole and my gauges all quit working speedo, fuel , and check engine light came on so I pulled over and shut it off waited a min and started it back up the gauges started working again but check engine still on so turned off again waited a min tried again and all is working what could this be Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You probably just jolted the main electrical connector on the back of the instrument panel.
    However, to be on the safe side you should check for codes. AutoZone will do it free if you don't have your own reader.
  • anv1190anv1190 Posts: 4
    Ive been having some trouble with me heat in my '97 4.0l 6cyl. Where is the wiring for the heat or maybe the core?? under the dash or under the hood??? cant find an outline or manual anywhere on the internet.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Have you tried our Online Repair Manuals?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Can you elaborate on the issues? Not blowing hot? Only certain speeds work? Only certain vents? Details would help. It may not be as complex fix as you think.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Ive been having some trouble with me heat in my '97 4.0l 6cyl.

    That's a shame, but it doesn't describe anything to which a meaningful answer can be given.

    Where is the wiring for the heat or maybe the core?? under the dash or under the hood?

    Most of the wiring for the HVAC is in the dash, though some is in the engine compartment.
    The heater core is located inside the HVAC housing behind the dash.

    cant find an outline or manual anywhere on the internet.

    I can help you with that, go here: Jeep Manuals
  • nav30nav30 Posts: 3
    It was the cat. I replaced both the cat and muffler; now the jeep is fine. Thanks Mac and Paul. :)
  • I have had a 1998 jeep wrangler for the past 5 or 6 years. A few years ago it started to have problems after start up. After driving about 100 yards it will start dogging out and sometimes lurching forward. Seems to do this almost every time i start it up. If i happen to be sitting still when ever it happens the RPM's will just go real low and quickly come back up and this will happen for maybe 5-10 seconds and then stop. It seems no one has ever heard of jeeps doing this, so our mechanic has had to look far and wide with very few answers.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I can think of a couple of things it might be but first, have you had it checked for codes?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    But did the dealer cover it? :)

    -Paul
  • Ok, Im having a problem with my 4wheel drive linkage. The other day the old man and the kids went out 4wheeling and the shifter went loose. I have a 97 wrangler only a 4 cylinder. When they got home and after taking it apart we found that the shift bushing (factory rubber) was cracked and off. We have since replaced that but now after replacing the bushing with the new plastic one (they do not make the rubber ones anymore) we can not get the dang thing to stay in 4wheel. It just pops out. Please let me know what you think. :mad:
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    I have a Jeep Wrangler X with only 24,000 mi. on it. The only problems I have had with it so far is badly warped rotors that I noticed the day I drove it off the lot. They fixed it but after if was out of warranty I had a similar problem that I had to pay for. No problems with it since but I have not put very many mi. on it. I was just wondering if those that own 2006 Wranglers with more mi. on it then I have, have had any problems that I should look for down the road.? I also notice that the windshield seems like it is easily chipped. I have two cracks, one on the drivers side and one on the bottom of the drivers side. Both happened while driving on the highway and a car and or truck kicked up a pebble that hit it. I am 60 and never had this happen to any of my other vehicles that I have owned over the years. Are they fragile or what? One would think that since many take them off-road and its likely a rock will hit it, the windshield would hold up better. Just my opinion.
  • I have a '03 Wrangler and apparently the rear wiper switch was broken. When I pressed it, my dashboard lights including the light in my gear box shorted out immediately. My gauges, turn-signals and other misc. items on the instrument panel still illuminate (i.e. symbol indicating brights are on). I checked and double-checked all the fuses and everything looked ok. I just got back from the dealer and they said the rear wiper switch caused a short circuit in instrument panel cluster and for $900 (+ labor) they can replace the entire instrument panel I would have thought a fuse would pop before the instrument panel short circuit. Does anyone have any other knowledge / experience of this happening? Thanks and happy trails.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited May 2010
    Does anyone have any other knowledge / experience of this happening?

    No, although I'm sure it must happen occasionally; and you're correct, it's not a fused circuit.

    My first choice would be to look at the circuit board and see if it was something obvious and easy to repair (or have repaired), like a blown circuit ribbon that could easily be soldered.

    Next, I would consider fitting a used instrument cluster (which must be from an '03).
    There's one on eBay at the moment for $200.
    If that option wasn't available to me I'd purchase a new cluster from one of the many online Mopar dealers. It's part # 56047016AB and seems to sell for around $580.

    Finally, if you tell your current dealer that's what you're going to do he may also sell you the cluster at a competitive price.........and of course you need to replace that faulty switch (part #56007249 / MSRP $21.00).
  • rlm4rlm4 Posts: 2
    Well, after much worry, I made a fist, and hit the top part of the instrument panel. Not hard enough to hurt your hand. I am a woman, so start easy, then just try it. It worked for me and something I have to do periodically. I will be driving down the road and every gauge on panel goes suddenly off. ... Oh by way, the gas gauge is not to be trusted. Count your mileage and fill up with gas by that. Also put it in shop to fix low air flow through vents. They could not find anything wrong with it as in the vents being obstructed. So in cold weather, it doesn't get warm for about 10 to 15 minutes and even then I have to dress warm.
  • hswintekhswintek Posts: 12
    edited May 2010
    MECHANIC INSTALLED A NEW OEM MASTER CYL. & SLAVE WITH LINE AND JEEP RAN FINE ON 1ST. TEST DRIVE. 2ND TEST DRIVE CLUTCH WOULD'T DISENGAGE.

    ANY HELP ON THIS --- WE ARE STUMPED ??????????

    IF THERE IS NO AIR IN THE LINE ------ WHAT SHOULD WE CHECK NEXT ?? ONLY 93K MI. AND NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS BEFORE THIS ????

    THANKS
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    A better way is to remove the black plastic around the cluster, remove it, then clean the contacts with a qtip and rubbing alcohol. Apply some dielectric grease to keep good contact and reinstall. Some have mentioned that giving the pins a slight twist will help ensure a better connection too.

    I have cleaned my pins exactly once on my 97 and I've had NO problems, other than the gas gauge going up/down, but that is due to the sending unit in the tank itself. I'm too lazy to worry about that - it's correct 95% of the time. :)

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    MECHANIC INSTALLED A NEW OEM MASTER CYL. & SLAVE WITH LINE AND JEEP RAN FINE ON 1ST. TEST DRIVE. 2ND TEST DRIVE CLUTCH WOULD'T DISENGAGE.

    Please don't SHOUT!

    You could check that the pedal still engages the master cylinder push rod, and that the slave cylinder is still properly located and connected to the release fork.

    However, personally I'd take it back to the mechanic to let him take care of it.
  • Thanks for the info!! I found an auto electronic specialist in the area and they are going to diagnose the problem and at the very least give me a second opinion. If I need a new cluster, I will try negotiating the retail price down to something more economical. Thanks again.
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