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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • dmdkdmdk Posts: 1
    I just installed a 4" Tuff Country lift kit on my 2000 Wrangler. This included the transfer case drop kit. After install, the manual transmission is tough to get and keep in gear (especially 2nd, 4th and reverse). Do I need to adjust the linkage? How?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    The t-case drop was to help eliminate vibrations from the rear driveshaft due to driveline angles. Did you try driving it before putting on the drop? You may not have needed it. I am of the opinion of why install a DROP kit when doing a LIFT? I had one on my TJ for a couple of months until I bought a JKS body lift and Motor mount lift. The body lift gave me some more room, but the motor lift help raise the front of the motor/tranny assembly so the driveline angles were flatter. I took the drop out. Runs great.

    As for why it is hard to shift, your t-case is now further away from your body, which changes the angles for the shift lever. Most likely your console cover is blocking it from doing a full shift. Think of it: when you shift your gear, the knob goes 'further' than the lower portions, but that same concept applies to the rest of the shift stick too. Since the pivot point of the shifter (the transmission itself) is lower, the net effect is that you are seemingly having to throw the shifter 'further' forward and something is getting in the way.

    You can adjust the linkage by getting a transmission linkage kit from an aftermarket manufacturer like Skyjacker and some others. Personally, I'd spend that $$ on the body and motor lift. You get more room for offroad clearances, you raise the oilpan up a bit to get it out of the rocks and such a bit, AND you solve your transmission issues.

    -Paul
  • I am having a problem with my wrangler 2003 my dash and tailights are out every other light works great bought a headlight switch and put it in and nothing..
    I visually checked all the fuses they seem intact, can they be bad and not show it, how did you fix your problem ?? please help I use my Jeep for my main transportation and I work in the middle of nowhere

    Thanks anyone
  • Many people seem to have problems with the rotors. Mine were bad when I drove my 06 off the lot and they replaced them two weeks later and said there was a bad batch...there are more posts about this issue.
  • Help! I have a 97 Wrangler with a 4.0L; I drive it every day and it runs great but every now and then (more often recently) the engine idles at about 2000 RMP. It starts fine and runs at a normal idle speed for a few minuets and then begins to run fast as long as the engine is warm it will idle fast when restarted. I have checked the throttle linkage and it is all free. Error codes are 12 and 43. Acceleration is good, holds an idle (whether fast or normal), and has a miss (I will change plugs and wires soon). Recent repairs include replacement of the O2 sensor (up stream) approx 6 months ago. Can you give some insight as to the problem. Thanks Tim
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'd check with a local auto parts store (ending with Zone) to have them check for any codes. If I had to venture a guess, I'd say your computer is reading the throttle sensor wrong (or it is bad). I had the opposite where it wouldn't idle well at all. It threw codes to point me to replacing the throttle position sensor. Yours MAY be erring in the other direction and going high.

    Have you offroaded it recently or gotten the engine area wet/soaked either through a huge puddle or cleaning the engine?

    -Paul
  • Recent off road- no, but some large puddles and I did wash the engine, but this is something that I have done before. This problem appeared during a "Dry Time" and does not appear to be related to getting something wet. Should I just replace the sensor or is there someplace else to start. Thanks Tim
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Tim,

    I'd start with Autozone and see if it is still throwing codes. They can analyze em and tell you what is up. Hopefully it'll point to a bad sensor and relieve your problems. It MAY be the Throttle Position sensor, but it could also be an O2 sensor. Bad sensors make these newer cars get all wacky.

    -Paul
  • bilbo3bilbo3 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Wrangler and my brake lights and dash lights are out too. I have a blown fuse and replace the fuse but it immediately blows again. I wonder if it is the turn signal switch or rheostat. Not sure if rheostat is part of the turn signal switch or a separate component. I've found a turn signal switch for about $60 and thinking about buying. Have you found out anything?
  • maclairmaclair Posts: 1
    Dose anyone know how to or if you can take part the side view mirrors from a '98 Jeep Wrangler? I have them off my Jeep. I am having problems taking them part to repaint them. :confuse:
    MaClair
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    To what extent are you wanting to take em off?

    The 2 screws on the underside of the mirror will let you remove it from the arm. Want to take the glass out? You'd probably be better off just masking it with painter's tape and newspaper.

    Other than that, there really isn't much to take apart.

    -Paul
  • I just had the same thing happen to me on my '02! I replaced a fuse that blew right away. Anyone have any advice yet? Any help would be greatly appreciated. :)
  • doerundoerun Posts: 1
    This Jeep only leaks(pours) on the passenger side between the light and the end of the dash. It only leaks when driving and of course raining. When I slow down and stop it stops. Used water hose and high pressure on all areas of the front of jeep and windshield door frame wipers on and off. Help
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It SOUNDS like it could be one of two things:

    Check for a hose on the firewall, kinda below the battery. There is a 1" or so pipe coming off and it is meant to be used for condensation removal. You need a J-tube to point down. During driving, this can blow back into the TJ onto the passenger floor area.

    Another option is that the spongy gasket that surrounds the heater core is saturated and letting water in. This is the problem I have. If you remove the battery, you can see the heater core (kinda roundish). if you reach in there with your finger, you'll feel the gasket stuff. Building up a 'wall' of silicon to prevent water from standing there at the bottom of that area will help keep water out of there. Also, you can spray some scotch-guard on the gasket to help repel the water a bit better. If you want to see where it is coming in, run some water on the outside of the Jeep and look under the carpet up on the 'floor' that runs up to the firewall. You should see a stream coming from that rounded area that is the heater core. I used baby powder on the floor to trace the water patch to confirm this.

    It is also possible that your drains in your cowl area are clogged. Remove the cowl with a Phillips screwdriver (some screws are under the rubber trim for the hood) and make sure all debris is out of that area.

    If I can find a pic of that J-tube thing I'll post it up to make it clearer.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Here is a pic... check this link.

    http://www.stu-offroad.com/body/ac/acleak-1.htm

    There is a part you can get from the Jeep dealership for a couple of bucks, but a PVC elbow joint and some glue would work just as well.

    Call your dealership and they can give you the P/N for it. Just tell em you need the J-tube to keep A/C condensation from coming in.

    If you do that, check your cowl drains for debris, and silicon up that spongy gasket beneath the battery around the heater core, you should be pretty good.

    -Paul
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    How do you change the clutch fluid on a TJ? I know how to bleed a clutch and I've done it before on my wife's Miata, but I don't know where the reservoir and bleed valves are on my '98 Sport.
  • doplee1doplee1 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler. Yesterday I dropped my wedding ring while at a light. I didn't see where it landed but I suspect it fell into the 4x4 gear box which appears to be part of the console. Does anyone know how I can remove the console (or just the 4x4 gear box) so I can see if my ring is there? BTW, wife is taking it well...considering

    Thanks in advance
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If you have the mini console:

    (1) Move the seats to the full rearward position.
    (2) Grasp shift handle (auto trans only) and firmly pull upward to remove.
    (3) Using a small flat blade, pry up shift indicator bezel, disengage bezel lamp connector and remove bezel (auto trans only).
    (4) Using a trim stick, pry up shift boot and remove (manual trans only).
    (5) Remove the trim disc from the bottom of the cup holder.
    (6) Remove the bolts attaching the console to the floor pan.
    (7) Shift transfer case to four low position.
    (8) Lift the console upward and shift transmission to L (2nd gear for man. trans.).
    (9) Remove console through the passenger door.

    If you have the full console:
    (1) Move the seats to the full rearward position.
    (2) Move the passenger seat in the full recline position.
    (3) Grasp shift handle (auto trans only) and firmly pull upward to remove.
    (4) Using a small flat blade, pry up shift indicator bezel, disengage bezel lamp connector and remove bezel (auto trans only).
    (5) Using a trim stick, pry up shift boot and remove (manual trans only).
    (6) Remove the bolts attaching the console to the floor pan.
    (7) Shift transfer case to four low position.
    (8) Engage parking brake.
    (9) Lift the console upward and rotate to remove.

    Be aware that there ARE holes to the outside under there. Not sure how well covered up they are, but those levers (t-case and shifter) leave the vehicle.

    Hope you find your ring.

    -Paul
  • I just bought a 2000 Jeep Wrangler and would like to replace all the fender flares. The issue that i'm having is that old fender flares will not come off because the bolts that hold the fender flares to the body just spin with the hole that they are in. I need to take them off because they are in bad shape but do not want to damage the body in the process. any ideas would greatly appreaciated.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    2 Options.

    1. You can use some needlenose pliers to kinda pull the bolt out a bit so the fastener on the backside (that you can't reach) is against the sheet metal and less likely to spin. I've done this on my back flares successfully.

    2. Use a reciprocating saw (sawzall) and just cut the bolt.

    I've found if you peel back the wheel well liner you can get access to nearly every bolt fastener.

    -Paul
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