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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • I am brand new to the Jeep market but have always been fan of them. I just bought a 99' Jeep Wrangler. It has 92,000 miles on it is that a problem?
    The real issue is however it is an automatic, I know I know what youre all thinking. However driving it is easy but I dont want to bust it up. With the command trac system consisting of 2H-4H-N-4L I have been switching from 2H to 4H when the vehicle has been stopped, is this bad for the vehicle? I just started thinking that maybe it needs to be changed while in movement like a manual vehicle... so i started playing around with it. I pulled it back to the N-4L area however it was stuck and hard to pull... is this because my Jeep isnt in the best of shape? It had been stuck in the snow and while trying to drive it out I tried switching it from 4H to 4L... as the car lurched forward and was no longer stuck in the snow... IT SHUT OFF! Did it stall? Long questions I know but if anyone can point me in the right direction Id truly appreciate it, Im lost and it's only an automatic!
    Thank you
    Z
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited February 2011
    You can expect at least another 92K from it if it's properly maintained.
    You can change from 2H to 4H while stationary or on the move.
    The best way to engage 4L is to stop and put the main transmission in N, then use the transfer case lever to select 4L.
    Engage D in the main transmission then drive off.

    As to whether you stalled it or not, I don't know I wasn't there. ;)
  • I have a 4.0, 6-speed manual transmission, 2005 Jeep Wrangler. Since recently having the dealer replace the clutch and flywheel I have been experiencing a pronounced vibration in the vehicle at approximately 2500 rpms, regardless of which gear the car is in. The vibration is similar to the feeling of riding on unbalanced tires (tires were rebalanced and problem remains). The vibration significantly lessens above and below 2500 rpms.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Since recently having the dealer replace the clutch and flywheel I have been experiencing a pronounced vibration in the vehicle...........

    It would be surprising if the the two were unconnected.
    Three possibilities spring to mind:
    1: The new flywheel wasn't checked for runout after it was installed.
    The tiniest speck of grit or rust on the mating surfaces where it's bolted to the crankshaft is the usual culprit, and if it's not entirely square to the crank then there will be a vibration.
    2: Similar issue with the clutch cover/pressure plate. Either something preventing it from sitting flat on the flywheel surface, or it's been distorted buy an incorrect torque sequence.
    3: The front propshaft was separated at the slip joint and replaced out of phase (same for the rear if you an SYE kit on the t/c and a rear propshaft with a sliding joint).

    Whatever, let the dealer take care of it; it's their issue to fix, not yours.
  • Take a look at the drive shaft. Check the U-Joints for wear or damage. Even a broken seal.

    When the U-Joint starts to go bad, you will get noticeable vibrations that vary depending on your speed.

    Your problem could be completely unrelated to the clutch work. And it is an easy diagnosis and cheap fix. I would look there first.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Your problem could be completely unrelated to the clutch work.

    It could, but it's been my experience that unless the two issues are entirely unrelated, i.e. "since having the tires rotated the windshield wipers don't park correctly", it's usually the case that the last item worked on is somehow the cause of the problem that appeared immediatly afterwards.

    ;)
  • elmozdadelmozdad Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Jeep Wrangler with a 2.5L motor. Fuel Injected,
    When the motor is cold...starts and runs like a brand new motor.
    Let it sit for 15 minutes and its real hard to start. Real strong gas smell. Just like it's flooding it's self out.
    I have changed every sensor on the motor. I have changed the plugs, plug wires, distributer and even all four injectors.
    I am about ready to try a FOR SALE sign next.
    I love the Jeep except for this one thing.
    Anybody have anything or comment or fix for this aggrevating problem????
  • ok i have a 2004 jeep wrangler unlimited other wise known as a LJ and i was muddin it the other day and it was hard to put into 4H then when i tried to put it in 4L i stopped put the transmission in the N position and pulled up and it seemed like it engaged then i put it back in drive and stepped on the gas and it went to feet lunged foward and i was out but then it was like the whole transmission slipped into nuetral and its been acting weird when using the 4wd since can someone give me an idea of what could be wrong with it?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    ..............and its been acting weird when using the 4wd since

    I suspect you built up tension in the drivetrain while in 4WD which wasn't or hasn't been released yet.
    You'll have to explain 'acting weird' for me to make a better guess, but off the top of my head I'd say the transfer case is still in 4WD or else something is damaged.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's not vapor lock (you have fuel injection).
    Have you checked for codes?
  • well i mean sometimes it will go in 4H but sometimes it wont and then when i put it in 4L it will ride for about 20 ft then slip out and when it shift it in to nutureal to put it back in 4L its grinding
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It sounds like the transfer case linkage needs adjusting. Do you have a body lift?
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X Manual Transmission and have gotten different answers to my questions in other forums. Do I have to press the clutch pedal when shifting to 4W HI or LO and does it have to be in neutral?

    I know I can shift into 4 WD while driving under 55 mi an Hour but do I have to have it in neutral when I shift? That seems odd to me.
    Can I put it into 4 WD while parked? Do I have to have it in neutral or press the clutch in or both?

    Same for 4W lo. Can I be completely stopped or must I be moving 2 or 3 mi. an hour? Do I have to have it in neutral and press the clutch in? For instance if I am stuck in a snow bank and cannot move, it is hard to get to 2 or 3 mi and hour.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You can shift into 4H (high) at any speed up to 55mph, although you may have to coast in neutral to shift back again.
    To engage 4L (low) Jeep say you can do so while rolling slowly with the transmission in neutral and firm use of the transfer case lever.
    Although it will engage 99% of the time, it will also make a horrible graunching noise 99% of the time too.

    The kindest way (for the transfer case) is to stop, put the transmission into neutral and turn off the engine. Then pull up on the t/c lever to silently engage 4L, start the engine, engage second or third gear and drive off.
  • I have a 2005 4.0L Jeep Wrangler with 6-speed manual transmission. The dealer installed a new clutch 6 weeks ago. The Jeep ran well following the installation except for the fact that the cruise control didn't work and the air for the heat/AC only blew out the floor vents for the heater. I went back to the dealer, and he re-connected the vacuum hoses which were inadvertently not connected after the clutch installation. After getting the Jeep back, the car had an extremely pronounced vibration, especially at 2500 rpms. The dealer replaced the clutch which lessened the vibration, but not completely, which I am experiencing at all speeds equally; it is not more pronounced at a particular rpm. What can be causing this vibration? The dealer seems to be perplexed at the solution to this problem.
  • no i do have a recently installed 3.25" suspension lift
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited April 2011
    no i do have a recently installed 3.25" suspension lift

    Again, I still think the problem is the t/c linkage.
    How were the driveline angles compensated for, motor mount spacers or lowering the transmission?

    Either one will require either adjustment of the linkage, or the addition of a kit to extend it.
  • so how much cost wise are we talking about or can i just do it myself or how do i go about getting it fixed
  • ablezablez Posts: 1
    My left blinker was working intermittently, so I turned my hazards on to see if they worked properly...now both blinkers and hazards wont work at all. It is not the fuse...not sure what the next step should be??? Thanks for any ideas/help!
  • myke500myke500 Posts: 6
    Check the fuse box under the hood first. If all is good there try to locate the flasher relay. Can't recall wherewithal its at but I think its under the dash near the steering wheel. Usually a silver round dome shaped object. Ask to see one are the auto part store. They tend to go out occasionally. But are cheap and easy to replace. This is assuming all 6 of your lights are working and not burned out. The bulbs on the rear. Are 2 lights in one bulb. So the brake lights may light still even though the turn signal filaments are burned out. Try these 2 things first.
  • After replacing the clutch on my 2005 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L with manual transmission a vibration and excessive "bassy" engine noise developed. The vehicle is still under an extended warranty. The dealer replaced the transfer case but the "symptoms" are still prevalent. Any ideas?
  • I have a 1998 TJ Sport 4.0 and have been frustrated with a ticking noise I get in the warmer months. It almost sounds like the ol card in the spokes ticking with some loss of power. In the winter time I never hear it, but now that it is June and warming up, it is starting to act up. I have no idea what could be making this. Sounds like it is coming from the rear part of the engine and the cat, can't really pinpoint it, any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Do you have any codes? The noise may be an overheated cat due to an O2 sensor problem.
  • iansciansc Posts: 2
    The fuel gauge has been broken for a while and yesterday I ran the tank dry. Today when I was driving (with a full tank) the engine starting losing power and my oil pressure dropped. I pulled into a parking lot in time for it to stall. The engine sounded like it was making every step in starting but wouldn't turn over and catch. I checked all the fluids and they looked good. No leaks under the Jeep. After letting it cool off for a about 10 minutes it cranked up and I fed it some gas for a minute before driving to the store. Has started twice since then fine but oil pressure won't go over 20 unless I'm accelerating hard.

    Please help.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Actually it sounds like it's turning over, or cranking, just fine and that firing up and running under it's own power was the issue.

    I'd guess the problem with the engine losing power and stalling is related to the fuel pump, which lives in the fuel tank and relies on being submerged in fuel for cooling.
    Already fourteen years old if it's the original pump, it would have been heavily stressed when you ran out of gas. People who run the tank nearly empty on a regular basis usually experience a dramatically reduced pump life.

    I suggest that you replace the pump module, which also contains the fuel gauge sender (I doubt the gauge itself is actually broken) and kill two birds with one stone.

    When you engine was stalling through lack of gas it would have been turning slower and slower. Among other things, oil pressure is related to engine speed, so as the speed dropped so would the pressure.

    At idle it would be acceptable for your oil pressure to be as low as 5-10psi, and with the engine warm at highway speeds 40psi would be reasonable.
  • iansciansc Posts: 2
    mac24,

    Thanks for the write-up. I've been putting off dropping the tank and fixing the fuel gauge sensor but your right, I might as well get both fixed. Now I just need to find a couple hundred bucks.

    Will respond when I fix it.
  • 1. i have oil in my air filter box of my 2005 jeep wrangler?
    2. my jeep seems to shake when i reach the speeds of 45-50, i have gotten new tires and alignment and it was fine then after a while it started again
    3. sputters when i try to take off in lower gear
  • My '97 SE 4banger sputters after about 30min of driving. It seems to only happen when the engine gets to about 210 degrees. Engine dies ten starts bck up but each time i have to drive slower and slower to keep the thing running. I have replaced the Camshaft pos sensor, Crank pos sensor, both O2 sensors, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor. plugs and wires are all new. Computer spits out O2 sensor code but I replaced that twice thinking one may be defective. starting to think it may be the onboard computer... please tell me I'm wrong.
  • this is probably not the problem, but i've had 2 similar experiences with my '98...

    the first was linked to the fuel pump/filter inside the tank... i'd drive for 20 to 30 minutes, it would begin to splutter and pop, rock and roll... and then eventually stop altogether... after a whle, it would restart and i'd continue on. i found, that on the bottom of my tank, there is an extruded circle on the rear right bottom corner... i'd thump that, and it would run again for a while...

    the second problem was an O2 sensor... the diagnostic computer would read correct, however, the wrangler wouldn't run worth a dime... i had it in and out of the garage a half dozen times when i was turned onto the local jeep "guru"... he fixed the problem, said sometimes the o2 sensor would read correctly, but still be malfunctioning, he described a manual test for it, but me not being a mechanic, didn't understand... or really care, i just wanted it to run.

    it hasn't missed a lick since...

    good luck!
  • gnfshngnfshn Posts: 1
    Depending on the year.. (i.e. Yours) the early TJs have become notorious for the blinker/hazard switch going as well. Its around 45 USD at your local parts store.
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