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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • I have a 2003 Jeep Wrangler Sport, The main output shaft from the back of the transmission that goes to the rear drive shaft snapped in two pieces. I have seen them for sale as replacement parts for only up to 2002. Will the 2002 part work on my 2003? please email me bitesizehooker@gmail.com
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, en route to New MexicoPosts: 40,499
    Please don't ask for "personal" help via email. We all benefit when a problem is discussed on the open forum. Thanks.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • Hey all,
    As stated, we own a new to us 2000 jeep wrangler sahara edition. Just in the past week it has been giving me some issues I will try to elaborate on:
    When starting after sitting for a night, it would crank a few times before Turning over. Sometimes no issues would follow. Most times after starting it would idle between 500 and 1000 rpms stuttering and shivering until I gave it more gas .
    Today i started it this am, and drove it right off. At noon, I went to start it, it turned over, and idled so low it cut off, making an odd noise I can't describe (kind of like a clunk under the hood) before cutting off completely.
    I started it again, and it was still idling low. I drove a ways down the street, and, shifted to 2nd gear, turned down a street, shifted a few more times (don't think I got past 3rd gear) and while driving it made a similar clunk sound, and I thought it had cut off again as the check engine light was on.
    I coasted to the side of the road, attempting to restart while doing so, and finding out it had not cut off.
    Wen I came to a complete stop, it did.
    Restart engine, idles funny- shuddering badly when accelerating, and hardly any forward momentum. Second gear, same thing. Third, same.
    Limped back home with hazards on, and have no idea what the cause could be.
    Mac23 I'm looking for a good answer from you as you seem to have great Q&A with a lot of users here.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited January 2012
    Limped back home with hazards on, and have no idea what the cause could be.
    Mac23 I'm looking for a good answer from you as you seem to have great Q&A with a lot of users here.


    Let me start without any implied criticism by clarifying a couple of the expressions you used, cranking and turning over, which ae usually used to mean the same thing..

    Perhaps these will explain it best: "I turned the the key and it wouldn't even crank, I just heard a click from the starter", and "The starter cranked ok, but although it was turning over without a problem it just wouldn't fire up".

    Couple of questions, has the Check Engine Light come on, have you checked for codes, and has the battery recently gone flat?
  • dragon5126dragon5126 Posts: 9
    edited March 2012
    The clutch isnt properly torqued into place, and as such is out of balance. This isnt rocket science to do properly and I would go back to the dealer and raise cain about it as well as contact Jeep/Chrysler with a service complaint if this is one of their dealers, as there is no excuse for this type of poor service.
    AN EDIT It is also possible that in the initial clutch change, the installer bent the flywheel causing it to be out of balance, or knocked one of the welded on balance weights off... In short it IS a service induced issue, a good dealer would claim ownership of the issue instead of just scratching his butt.
  • due to the tolerances in the transfer cases and shifters every vehicle WILL have different "personalities", which is why you are getting so many different answers. The basics are in and out of 2 to 4 hi are wheels straight stopped or rolling, just step on the clutch let off the throttle, and let the engine drop to an idle as if shifting and engage 4 hi. Normally you can disengage doing the same thing but that depends on the wear and tear of the transfer case. NORMALLY to go to 4 lo STOP the vehicle and shift in and out of 4 LOW, not only to prevent damage to the transfer case but for safety as well, as the sudden gear range change and attendant speed change can cause dangerous handling as well as throw you against the steering wheel, against the windshield and similar.
  • I'm not too familiar with how sophisticated the computer is in the 2000 but the 06 I have will tell me whats going on when I plug a reader into the computer. You stated the Check engine light came on when the engine was running so it did generate a code, however it may not oave been a stored one. Most auto parts stores can read these if you take the jeep there, you can also ret the readers of buy cheaper ones for around 30 bucks from places like Harbor Freight. If your autos are newer than 1995 these units are a MUST HAVE just like a dwell meter used to be back in the days of breaker points ignitions. With that said, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue, and can be as simple as a plugged fuel filter on up the line to a bad fuel pump, bad presure regulator, injectors, or the ECM going bad. Bottom line get a code reader. You NEED one.
  • stacekenstaceken Posts: 9
    This is my first summer with my 99 TJ. When I got it a few months back, the dome light didn't work. I have my local garage guy replace the fuze. It works great now; dome light, kick panel light on the drivers side (Is there one on the passengers side?). Now that its summer, I'm taking the doors off. How do I keep the dome light from staying on (No duct-tape jokes please...)
  • j4fj4f Posts: 1
    Have your local garage guy pull the fuse back out.
    Or if you want to do it yourself; it should be located behind the glove compartment. Open the glove compartment, prop it up and out. Fuses should be clearly marked. Pull the dome/door light fuse and save it for when you are ready to put the doors back on. Enjoy your summer!!
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It is Fuse #4.

    -Paul
  • postal4postal4 Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 2004 right hand drive jeep for my mail route. I have had nothing but problems. It only has 78000 miles. Was running a bit hot, so we replaced the thermostat which seems to have fixed that problem. Would not start good so we replaced the spark plugs. Starts better, but not great. Now it has started hesitating after about the 5th hour on the road. It will not accelerate immediately when I push the gas and the check engine light has come on. Took it to find the code and was told it was a dealer code and I would have to take it to a jeep dealer just to find out why the light is on. Anyone else ever had this problem and know what it is. It runs fine most of the time but sometimes runs a little rough when I first start it. I can usually turn it off and restart and then it's fine. The hesitation is what is really driving me nuts.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Take it to Autozone. They can read codes for free. It may be a case of dirty injectors or it could be something as simple as a bad Throttle Position Sensor. $50.00 and about 10 minutes will get THAT changed out and back on the road.

    When my TPS went bad, Autozone diagnosed it with their machine. No special reader from the dealer required.

    -Paul
  • postal4postal4 Posts: 2
    Paul,
    I took it to Autozone, they are the one's who told me it was a dealer code and they could not diagnose it. So if they diagnosed your problem, I'm thinking mine must be something else. Thank you for the suggestion, however.
  • i posted several weeks ago regarding a problem i was having with my '98 wrangler. i wanted to use the 4X4 low gear and when i engaged it, let out the clutch, the transfer case lever would pop out of gear. some of you recommended a linkage adjustment and sent me information for that. i tried, but didn't get it right, so i took it to a pro.

    he too, tried and couldn't get it... says he thinks a fork inside the transfer case is bent.

    i'm not broke, but i'm badly bent... what kind of repair price am i looking at? i don't have to use granny low, 4X4 high works fine... but i hate to have something that doesn't work right...

    sooo... how long am i going to have to save up for this job?
  • There is a Technical Service Bulletin number 25-001-07 dated February 2007 which "fixes" the OBD Emissions "not ready" codes.

    Basically the bulletin describes how to bypass several wires in the Power Distribution Center to allow the computer to show that the I/M is "ready" vs. "not ready."

    This bulletin can easily be performed by the dealer and applies to both the 4 cyl. and 6 cyl engine.
  • HAVE A 2004 JEEP RUBICON. WHEN APPLYING FUEL AFTER SHIFTING IM GETTING A HARD JOLT AND A LOUD BACK FIRING NOISE. THIS USUALLY ONLY HAPPENS WHEN IM NEEDING TO ACCEL QUICKLY AND HAS NOT HAPPENED UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHERE TO START WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
  • I have the same problem with my Wrangler ( also a 2000) .... did you end up finding out what the problem was? If so please share any info. will help Thanks
  • I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler .... I've recently started to hear what sounds like a grinding noise from the rear end/ middle of the jeep.... its not a very loud noise but is noticeable when I let of the gas and coast ... roughly between 2nd and 4th gear so about 15-45 mph... I cant really tell on the highway because of the wind noise .... any suggestions on what the problem may be? any info. will help thanks
  • HI,

    I have a jeep wrangler 2006 TJ manual transmission. 2 weeks ago i started hearing a weird noise. Not always i hear it. But most of the time, for example when i am stuck in traffic and try to accelerate from 0km/hr on gear 1, i hear like something tearing below but goes back back normally when i move on! I hope i addressed my question clearly.

    Thanks for the help!
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