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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Best way to avoid it is to not go in that deep of mud. ;)

    If you do, you may want to extend your breather lines for differentials, transmission, and transfer case.

    Also, do NOT shift while in that deep of mud. Disengaging the clutch lets the junk in, especially with a stock breather tube.

    -Paul
  • jeepguy48jeepguy48 Posts: 9
    does any know what the fuel pressure should be for a 4.0L jeep running wide open throttle?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    does any know what the fuel pressure should be for a 4.0L jeep running wide open throttle?

    I do...me...over here... :)

    Oh, you wanted the actual figure? Ok, sorry too much coffee.....

    It should be 49psi +/- 5psi constantly while running or ign on. WOT or idle, it should be the same. The amount of fuel getting to the pistons is controlled by the injectors, which in turn are controlled by the PCM.

    If your pressure is less it could be a pump, filter, pressure regulator, or fuel line issue. If it's more, then it's the regulator.

    Now, where are those donuts........... :shades:
  • jeepguy48jeepguy48 Posts: 9
    thanks mine is dropping to about 30psi above 4000rpm at wot thanks again for the info looks like its time for a fuel pump.
  • m_j_luffm_j_luff Posts: 1
    Hi
    Can someone please help.
    Im Jeep Wrangler has had a misfiring problem since i had it. When the Jeep is cold it will misfirer and splutter until it the temp hits 100c, after that its normaly fine. I have had a full serivce and changed the heater sensor and thermistate changed. This has done nothing. I just got back from a garage and they couldnt work out what was wrong. The computer didnt come up with any problems so the only thing he could think of is the oxigen sensor. Will this help?
    Can someone please help.
    Many Thanks
    Mike
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    When were the plugs last changed? When were the wires and distributor cap replaced?

    Full service won't always do that stuff.

    -Paul
  • I have a 1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara TJ that keeps saying "check guages". It also studders at arround 2000 rpm (as if it has bad gas), and my mileage is only 12 mpg.
    I have removed the fuel tank and pump, cleaned the tank and re-installed the fuel pump, checked all of the injectors (which all read the same resistance +/- 10%). I have also replaced cap, rotor, wires, and plugs.
    I was goning to play with the timing but it seems to be controlled electronicly.
    I have found that my fuel presure should be arround 49 psi, can any one verify that for me.
    Please help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The answer is here (five posts back).
  • dscottygdscottyg Posts: 2
    My 98 Jeep Wrangler, does the same thing when it rains. It seems to drip slowly from up under, behind the glove box or trickle down by where the passenger foot area is. Below. It seems to have nothing to do with the jeep top. I copied and pasted a comment from another website addressing how to fix it. I'm going to try it. The "cowl" is the vent across the hood of the jeep at the base of the windshield. Good luck.
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I just fixed mine.Remove windshield wipers(push clip down and pull off).At least on my 98'.Remove the hood cowl on the outside near the windshield. You need two people to do this if you don't want to scratch your paint removing it.Seal inside around the vent box on the passengers side.Also seal along the weld all the way across and especially where it is spot welded.I missed one spot weld and I got 2" of water in during a storm.Seal the water drainage vent directly under the hood vent too.I used a good clear silicone to seal mine.Make sure you clean it really good first and dry it out.That will keep you dry.I have no leaks finally.
  • dscottygdscottyg Posts: 2
    My gauges in my 98 Jeep Wrangler work once in a while if it's really hot or cold outside, or if I hit a bump they'll work and then stop working a little while later. Anyone know a do-it-yourself way to fix this?
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250
    This is a problem early model TJs.

    The search function on this site works really well.

    Try searching "guages don't work" or "Dash goes out" or something like that.

    You will probably find 100+ posts. There is a pretty easy fix. Some of the posts are more detailed than others.

    Terry
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Basically, remove gauge cluster (VERY easy), then clean the contacts with isopropyl alcohol, then bend the contacts ever so slightly to ensure a good contact.

    Before reassembling, coat with dielectric grease for a good solid connection.

    -Paul
  • 2004 Wrangler, 75k miles. Running fine, stopped for 10 minutes got back in and will not start, electrical is dead. Gauges freak out, windshield wipers start really slow, starter won't turn over. Few minutes later wipers stop but system goes dead when you turn the key. Any suggestions where to start?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Either the battery has failed or is depleted due to a charging issue, or it could be a bad battery connection or cable.
  • janzalojanzalo Posts: 1
    On my 97 tj when I apply the brake the fuse blows for my brake lights all other lights work fine... Where do I start?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Have you by chance installed anything (including body armor like rock rails)? Sounds like you have a short in your brake circuit. A friend had this EXACT issue and it turns out he cut his brake wires as he drilled holes for his rocker rails. Drill bit broke and was stuck between the wires.

    Apply brake - ZAP! No lights.

    -Paul
  • nworbekimnworbekim Posts: 17
    i've had my eye one a set of rims for a couple of years now, and with the assistance of the economic stimulus check and a little bit extra, i was able to buy them along with a new set of tires...

    problem? the tires now stick out about an inch past the 4" flares... i see a wider set in jcwhitneys, and a few in the jeep mags...

    question? how difficult are they to put on? it looks like there's only a few bolts holding the flares on... but i can't tell about the stuff between the wheels below the doors... what holds them on?

    do i have to actually remove that stuff? there's a pretty good set of running boards there that runs from the bottom rear of the front flare to the bottom front of the rear flare...

    anyone point me to a website that shows stuff like this? or maybe another idea than wider flares?

    by the way, the rims look awesome!!! the wrangler has a wider stance...

    thanks!
  • nworbekimnworbekim Posts: 17
    i was told to look for a loose ground, it caused mine... funny thing, the loose ground was a broken ground wire to a side light? go figure, but when i spliced a piece into it, the problem went away...

    perhaps it was a fluke? perhaps not? but its fixed now :)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Unless your tires stick out too far and either bother you or are illegal, I wouldn't worry about it. My 33's stick out a bit and I like the look personally.

    You can possibly get Rubicon flares which look identical but are a tad wider. Aftermarket flares should mount exactly how the stock ones do. There is a nutsert behind the sheet metal (and under the wheel well liners) that you can get to. The front is easy, as you can reach the 'back' of the wheel well from directly underneath. The rear wheel wells are a bit harder as you have to sometimes get behind the well liner to hold a nutsert that comes loose. When I removed mine a while back to put new ones on, most stayed in place. I only had 4 total I had a problem with and had them start spinning.

    -Paul
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    Hey what's the problem...
    If your tires now stick out past the rubber splash guards then there is now no reason to even have them on any more.
    Don't buy wider rubbers, They are a waste of money and make you Jeep look like an 80's Testerosa Body Kit (silly).
    Now would be the perfect time to rip the rub-guards off and let the mud fly.
    This would be a good time to throw away the little running board (helper steps) and bumpers too. A short chunk of iron with tow hooks is all you need up front put a trailer hitch on the back. Now yer Jeepin'.
    Mud splatter and rock chips looks a lot cooler than ghetto fender extensions.
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