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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    With 35's, you WILL want to regear. Depending on engine and transmission, you may want to consider 4.88's. If you have the dana 35, you will want to reconsider strengthening it with alloy shafts (that have a higher spline count), or swap in a stronger axle.

    -Paul
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    This is an easy question. No answers?
  • They are fixing the Steering Shimmy tomorrow. It is still under warranty so no charge to me.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    600-750 sounds about right for my TJ. When it's cold, it idles around 750. As it warms up, idle goes down.

    I have 4.88's too and I can crawl down hills w/o using brakes at all. I also have 33" MT's. The issue that is the difference is the transmission's ratio. The manual's first gear is not geared the same as the first gear on the automatics, which would probably explain the descent down the hill is faster than you'd expect with 4.88's. I often have to GIVE it gas going down a hill. :)

    All that said, I have the 2.5L engine as well with stock t-case. Is it possible the IAC is misreading the idle speed?
    -Paul
  • I really would like to know more about your problem. I have a 2000, where oil pressure will drop to 10 on idle when warm. I am worried about burning up the tp end.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The figures on your gauge mean nothing, it's the analog equivalent of an idiot light.. The gauge is just giving a representation of the oil pressure; low at idle, higher as the RPM increase.

    If you really want to know the actual pressure then connect a mechanical gauge.
    A cheap ($20) kit like this will do virtually any vehicle and be fully accurate enough for diagnostic purposes.

    image

    O/P Gauge @ HF

    Why do you associate a perceived low oil pressure at idle with burning up the top end?
  • If I have low oil pressure, I am probably not delivering enough oil to keep the lifters, cam etc lubed, won't they eventually wear and freeze up. Am I worrying for nothing?

    I I disregard the oil pressure. What is the worst that can happen?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Your engine will seize.

    Nothing major.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Only worry when you have to. Oil pressure is much lower at idle than at higher RPM. It's also much lower when the oil is hot than when it's cold, and it's lower when the oil has been used for 3K miles compared to when it's just been changed.

    Use your gauges to establish a baseline for normal operation and don't get hung up on a particular figure. The time to worry is when a regular behavior changes.

    Finally, you could idle all day at 3-5psi without doing any damage as the engine is under the least load possible.
    If you want to worry about something, think of those soft metal crankshaft bearing shells that can be damaged by a careless fingernail, rather than the toughened and hardened valvetrain.
    Try not to let it keep you up at night though. ;)
  • tried searching for this, didn't see anything on them, 2 things:

    1) My blower control - recirc, top bottom, defrost etc - the vents - hardly works. I can turn the knob and if I'm lucky the air will come out of the speficied vents. At worst, the knob kicks on the AC compressor, but not the fans - even in the off position. I can't tell you how many times I've been sitting at an intersection with the top off and hear the 'click' of the AC clutch and have to wiggle the knob. The dealer, of course, can't find anything wrong. What I've noticed is it appears to be a vacuum issues. This controls are whacked first thing in the morning or when the engine is straining - hills, etc.. Any thoughts other than hooking up a gauge, but I don't know what it takes to run the bellows? (06 Unlimited Ruby, 6 spd man)

    2) Looking for tips on cleaning the inside of the soft top. When I fold my top back, the sails that fold in rub against the outside of the top and end up with funk ground into them. When I close the top the inside ceiling now looks trashed and I can't seem to clean the dirt out.

    Thanks!!
  • As I started typing this I realized how old the original message was, but might as well finish -

    Indeed, clocksprings are responsible for this. I found out becuase my older 99 had a bikini top. To install the bikini top there had to be a channel added to the header. The channel had slots cut out for the full soft-top latches. Well, when it rains the channel turns into a gutter and dumps water right on the steering wheel. I learned to flip the visor town to deflect the water to the floor. :P
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    My blower control - recirc, top bottom, defrost etc - the vents - hardly works.

    Could be the switch which is a combined vacuum/electrical item, but it's worth checking the knob itself. They often crack and allow the knob to rotate freely while only intermittantly moving the shaft of the switch. Pull the knob from the shaft to inspect it.
    Very common problem with a very cheap fix! :)
  • Hi
    Please see my message #1242 on this board. I think it may fix your problem #1. Good luck
    Tommy
  • I have 1995 Wrangler. The blower only works on high. Where do I find the resistor pack and what else should I look for?

    I also need to replace the right speaker. Can I get at it by removing the glove box? I am hoping I don't have to remove the dash.

    Thanks,
    Dave
  • Bingo.. not sure how I couldn't find your original post by searching, guess I needed to be more generic.

    Thanks!!!
  • The heater controls are from the same pile of junk as the rest of the heater/AC crap.
    I have a 1947 Willys CJ2A with the original heater rheostat switch.
    The heater core has been rebuilt and the motor was replaced when I converted it to 12 volt, but all the heater wiring is still original.
    Weird huh.
    I have had the blower switch on my TJ replaced 6 times so far.
    Replaced the console once. Smoked the wiring twice.
    MoPar still mean buy MOre PARts every day.
  • Hello all,

    I have the same problem - P2096 message on the MIL on my 2005 inline 6 cyl. Unlimited - 46,000 miles. I went to AutoZone and two other auto parts stores today and they cannot find the "P2096" Code in their system.
    Any help would be much appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Jack
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    P0296 Cylinder 12 Contribution/Range Fault

    From http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

    Um, cylinder #12 on an inline 6??? Something's whacky there!

    -Paul
  • My 98 Wrangler Sahara has an ongoing intermittent problem with the engine coughing and loosing power as I am driving it along. It can drive fine for days then on another journey it coughs, clonks and looses power. It has been investigated by my local garage but they cannot find the fault. Its had new plugs, leads, IAC and TPS but its still playing up.

    In 2000 it had a new oxygen sensor fitted at the time it seemed to be having similar problems and this cured it (on an old invoice we got with the car) is this likely to have gone again and be causing this problem?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,280
    Fuel pump/filter/relay?

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

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