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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Are you sure it is a transmission issue? Have you run by any local auto part stores like Auto zone to see if it is throwing any codes?

    Have you had your differentials (in the axles) and transfer case fluid changed any time recently?

    Opening up the differentials may tell you if you have gear damage at the axle itself.

  • kitrollkitroll Posts: 3
    i am so glad somebody responded thankyou last night i crawled under there and saw some wettness my honey has just said he will check the fluids but that wouldnt have anything to do with the hesitation after driving for long periods would.. sorry for all the stupid questions..
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    The wetness could be from humidity, condensation, or a leak. The hesitation sounds like the engine may be throwing some codes. That's why I suggest hitting up Autozone or a place to read any codes your OBDII is tracking.

  • kitrollkitroll Posts: 3
    ok sorry so i didn't tell you this but the check engine light did come on about a month ago on my to get oil changed then had codes read there was one which was something like fuel air metering they reset it and about a week later giving gas to get on highway it came on again so i changed the thermostat which was bad it came out in 4 pieces i reset it by disc the battery went back to auto zone the code was gone.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    To me, sounds like more of an issue with your engine vs your transmission.

  • jdljjdlj Posts: 1
    I have an 04 jeep wrangler unlimited 4.0 inline 6 cylinder, it has an airaid air filter, a throttle body lift, 33 inch tires, winch, warn bumpers around with tire carrier, a 2 inch body lift and a 2 inch suspension lift and I get between 16.5 - 17.5 mpg highway and around 15 city. I say all that to say that something doesnt seem right to me regarding your poor fuel mileage. I pulled a basstracker 17.5 foot boat to and all around Colorado and averaged 11 mpg.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    With your 33 inch tires, did you regear the differentials? If not, your speedometer (and odometer will be off). So you may be getting decent mileage (but don't expect GREAT mileage with 33's) but just don't realize it.

    There are a number of speedo gears available online. You need to check with the dealer for a gear that works with 33" tires and the gearing in your differential (likely 3.73).

  • I have a 2002 JEEP TJ. For the past month every once in a while it has had problems starting. It would start but it was struggling to start. Just last night it died. I try to start it and you can hear something turning but not connecting. I think I just need a new starter but I'm not sure and I don't want to buy one if that's not the problem. Does anyone have ANY idea what it could be?
  • We have a 97 Jeep wrangler. Ok so in the offroad course park last weekend my husband and I went through some pretty deep water in which the little hill at the beginning kinda made the hood & front in dip into the water first. A few minutes later it started cutting out and died. It started back up and died as soon as we started to take off. Since then it will either not start at all or die after a few minutes of idling or die when you start to drive it. We have hair dryed the rotor and distributor cap ( not sure if that is the right name and hubby isnt here) and that seemed to help make it run longer. Whenever it doesn't start it turns over but doesnt start. No fuses are blown under the hood except the cig lighter. My husband is notorious for guessing at what is wrong and fixing 10 things that are perfectly fine before finding the real problem so I just thought I would try to see if anyone might know... Any ideas?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    EXACT same thing happened to me. Check the Throttle Position Sensor behind the air intake at the top of the engine. Go to Autozone and have them read any codes. I'd be willing to bet the throttle position sensor is bad. It can be sensitive to water/mud.

    It's a 53.00 part or so and 10 minutes in the parking lot changing it out.

    As for the poster above you, check codes as well before doing anything. Your ODBII port should hold any codes as well, so before doing the part swap boogie, see if the Jeep is telling you anything.

  • tymerejtymerej Posts: 4

    I've a 97 jeep wrangler 4.0 Sport with 61,000 miles. Firstly, my check engine light comes and goes off seemingly at will. After driving for approx. 30 min on the interstate the transmission seems to start slipping. It doesn't accelerate when foot is on the gas. Act like it doesn't know which gear it wants to be in. It is a manual drive so shouldn't be transmission right? Sometimes when it gets really bad it starts to buck/jump/pop like there's bad gas in the tank. Took it to friend of a friend mechanic and was told it was the clutch. The guy started it, rocked back and forth on the clutch and annouced after a few minutes it the clutch because the clutch was too 'high' Mechanic asked if i smelled burnt smell when problem happened. Sometimes i do. Took it to Advance Auto Parts and guy said may be oxygen sensor. He asked if i notice burnt smell also. Said sensor needs to be replaced at 60,000 miles. Help, any thoughts? I will take to another Advance Auto Parts to have codes read as this location had its roll out computer stolen..........
  • have a sputter when going down the road just a light jolt here and there then got a light 02 sensor replaced it and still problem no light look at 02 no issues so then i begin the fun of tracing the issue i have replaced the following

    tsp, coil pack, plugs, ignition coil and coil sensor, oil change and filter, fuel additive,
    now into it for 1000.00 and still the same problem as i said it sputters just here and there just a light sputter but very noticeable any other ideas as i said no check engine lights on and ran computer on it and tested pressures and all show dead on help me please
  • I have seen thisin my old neon wastold both thesame things after doing the 02 it endedupbeing the clutch but he is right u should do 02 after 60000 miles not a bad idea i have oned jeeps my whole life i would suggest clutch and throw out barring
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Before doing anything, check the codes. It could be a number of things, but us web-wheelers are only guessing until the codes are known. Could be a mechanical issue or it could be a sensor/electronic issue. Knowing those codes will definitely help. AutoZone can read codes too.

  • tmastmas Posts: 8
    I have the '02 Sport Wrangler 4.0 with 91K on the odometer. I recognized that the transmission mount was worn and making noise so I bought one and went under to replace it. It turned out that the passenger side crossmember bolts(3) came right out but the driver's side spun in place! What can I do to fix or remedy this situation? The frame up under the crossmember/skidplate seems very rusty and I'd like to repair it. I need a durable fix for the bolts and fastening them with the crossmember into the frame. Anybody?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    After driving for approx. 30 min on the interstate the transmission seems to start slipping. It doesn't accelerate when foot is on the gas.

    If the engine revs increase but the Jeep doesn't accelerate then it's almost certain that the clutch is slipping.

    If your check engine light comes on a code will be set in the computer. On a '97 you can check it without a code reader.

    To determine which Diagnostic Trouble Code(s) are stored in the PCM of your '97 TJ:
    Turn the ignition key to the "On" position three times in succession (i.e., On, Off, On, Off, On), within five seconds
    The Malfunction Indicator (Check Engine) Lamp will flash the appropriate number of times to indicate the DTC number, with a short pause between the first and second digits (e.g., 2 flashes of the MIL, followed by a short pause, followed by 5 more flashes, indicates error code 25)
    The appropriate DTC will also be displayed in the odometer window
    Note: All DTCs consist of 2 digits. If more than one DTC is stored in the PCM's memory, the procedure above will display all codes in succession. Regardless of how many codes are stored, Code 55 will always be the final code to be displayed. Code 55 indicates the "completion of the fault code display on the Check Engine lamp".

    Post any codes here or look them up on Google.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The frame up under the crossmember/skidplate seems very rusty and I'd like to repair it. I need a durable fix for the bolts and fastening them with the crossmember into the frame.

    I'm afraid there's no way to make a strong repair except to cut out the bottom (and maybe some of the sides if they're badly rusted) of the frame rail and weld in new metal complete with nuts for the cross-member bolts.

    Most welding shops should be able to handle it as the area is easily accessible and the metal is thick enough to weld easily. Use new bolts with plenty of anti-seize.

    This is not an uncommon problem with Wranglers, especially where salt is used on the roads. One of the first things I did with mine was to remove those bolts one at a time and anti-seize them. Ten years on and they still come out as if they were new.
  • the engine doesn't rev when trying to accelerate, it just sputters.....jumps and bucks when it is bad and i don't press the clutch...I took it to Advance Auto Parts when the check engine light is on and was given the code P0132 which says the O2 sensor is giving off high voltage reading the Advance guy said. what do you think? clutch?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .......................was given the code P0132 which says the O2 sensor is giving off high voltage reading the Advance guy said. what do you think?

    I think it's interesting that you were given an OBDII code (Pxxxx) from a vehicle with an OBDI PCM.
    Go back to the instructions in my previous post and pull up the code(s) yourself.
    As explained there, the '97 returns two digit codes. Post here what you get.
  • The only codes showing is the battery has been disconnected recently. We have now changed the rotor, distr. fuel pump and regulator and changed out the gas. It has been a month and now it either wont start or when it starts it dies after a while or dies when we try to take off.
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