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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • I have an 01 Jeep that I love to drive but it will not start. The motor isn't locked up. It will turn over if you jump the starter but I have no power to the starter from the rely under the passenger side dash. I have tried to jump start it with no luck. No one seems to have clue why it is acting this way. Somebody knows what is going on. Please tell me what in the world is causeing this. I have done everything I know but all the crap that is on these cars now has me at loss.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    My first guess would be a bad battery or battery cables. Have you inspected the wiring and connections to ensure everything is tight and that there is no corrosion? Do lights, radio, blinkers work?

    Have you had the battery tested? Do you have something in your Jeep that is always on that could be a drain for it?

    -Paul
  • The batt. and all connections are fine. The lights work and the odometer comes on but the gauges don't trip and reset the way they did before. They don't move at all. I have turn apart the wireing harness. Replaced the relay in the dash. Checked the clutch sensor. Nothing. I am at the end of my rope. It's going to be something simple but with all the wireing in this thing, it's a nightmare.
  • I have a '97 TJ with 72K miles. The check engine light is on and I had the codes read and Im told its the throttle pedal postion sensor and the power steering pressure(has a slight leak at the gearbox). It runs really rich and revs up and down upon a cold start. when I coast say like into a parking spot with the clutch in it occastionaly dies. The I am only getting 8 miles to the gallon with the stock wrangler tires and rims,(it has 4'' lift) it had on 33x12.50 was forced to take off till I can fix the gas mileage. Does anybody know if you can replace the sensor yourself or does it have to set by a mechanic? Any advice would be great I appericate it thanks to all who help.
  • i have a jeep wrangler 97 sport, 4.0 liter. my lower radiator hose is leaking and was wondering why. i've replaced it and it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks. now it has started again, i just took off the new hose and cut about an inch off the top end and put it back on after cleaning it off inside where it connects on both ends.i replaced the spring clamps with screw clamps which the AAP guy gave me. it leaks from the top connection for some reason. the guy at advance auto part gave me the right part, as i called and he double checked on the compter. hmmm, i don't have the money to take it to a shop, any assistance would be most appreciated. thanks, you guys are always helpful and knowledgable.

    jt
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    You SURE it is leaking from the opening? The TJ radiators are NOTORIOUS for leaking at the plastic/aluminum joint. It could be leaking there and running down and LOOKING like it is leaking from the hose.

    -Paul
  • jt, I thought I had the same problem that you described; however, it turned out to the what Paul stated it was.

    99 Jeep TJ
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    As an FYI, swapping a TJ radiator is NOT tough, and as long as you're in there doing it, swapping any other older parts like the t-stat or water pump is a cheap, low-cost preventative maintenance item to do.

    TJ water pumps are about 35.00 at Adv Auto and a thermostat is under 10.00 (gasket is usually extra). if you replace the water pump, be sure to see if the impeller has an "R" on it for reverse flow... order accordingly!

    If hoses are older replace them too.

    -Paul
  • About every 10-15 months my heater blower loses 3 of it's 4 speeds. I take it to my shop and he replaces resistors or something and charges me $50.00. He mentioned that it had to do with the fact that the blower motor is basically a high speed motor giving high or speed 4, and resistors???? have to be incorporated into the circuit to produce the other 3 lower speeds. Can anyone tell me the full story on this 'fix' and describe exactly step-by-step what I have to obtain in parts and how to fix this thing without spending another $50? I was recently laid off and I now need the $50.00 myself. I know that the Power Distribution Center shows the "High Blower Relay" in position 11 and indicates it having a 40 AMP Orange Relay. Thanks.....
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If it is blowing that much and resistors keep needing replacement, I'd suggest finding a local salvage yard and picking one up from a 97 (the newer versions operate differently and won't work in a 97). I'd also encourage you to pop apart that area of the dash and look for loose/frayed wires that may be causing the resistors to blow.

    Probably replacing the unit is the easiest way to go. When I say replacement, I'm thinking the switches, not the motor itself. Perhaps Mac will jump in here and confirm or just laugh at me for being WAY off! :)

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The shop the original poster is going to is fixing the problem, but not taking care of the cause.
    While it could be a faulty switch, bad ground, or bad blower motor causing the resistor pack to burn out, the most common cause is water, damp crud or leaves settling on top of it.

    The resistor sits at the bottom of the HVAC housing on the passenger side and if the Jeep is often parked under trees or the plenum drain is blocked (or a combination of the two), then moisture and debris can find its way into the housing.
    A blocked condensate drain can also have the same effect, but the puddle on the passenger floor usually ensures it gets cleared before the resistor is affected.
  • i'm not mechanically inclined so pardon my many questions but, you're saying it may be leaking from the place where the lower radiator hose connects to the engine, not where the lower radiator hose connects to the radiator right? because it does seem to be leaking down from that vicinity. thanks guys, you are the shiznit.

    jt
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    What I'm saying is that the TJ radiator is made up of the main core with all the metal blades AND a plastic topper where the upper hose connects. That seam at the top is where the radiator tends to leak and run down the back side and LOOK like a lower hose leak.

    In the pic below, you can see the upper part of the radiator and the seam.

    image

    A GREAT writeup on replacing it can be found here:
    Stu Olson's Radiator Replacement Writeup. This is a very good site with lots of photos to detail mods and repairs for the TJ.

    -Paul
  • dootdoot Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 97 wrangler. I have had to have the transmission rebuilt within 1 month of purchase. It is still throwing the " torque converter solenoid" code. Is also throwing a "throttle position sensor" code. Each time it does this the blinkers either start working or will discontinue working. None of these problems seem to occur at the same time. When it is showing the throttle sensor code it is idling around 1300 Rpm with seems very high.
  • Greetings,
    I've had great success here, hopefully it continues. My brake lights stopped working. I checked the fuses and the bulbs, they were all in good shape. All 3 break lights are out...left, right, and tire. My running lights work, as do my back up and turning lights. It seems to JUST be my brake lights. I went to the auto parts place to get a manual to help troubleshoot and they only had Haynes, which doesn't have electrical. Any help would be awesome. Also, does anyone know of a great Jeep manual for 2000 Wrangler??? I am having the worst luck finding one, but there are a million jeep nuts. This is my first Jeep, and I keep being told, "you will love it, but will learn how to fix it too". Thanks again and again.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Have you checked the brake light switch?

    You can access the Factory Service Manual for a year for around $27 at: AllData.
  • I have a 1999 Wrangler w/ Auto transmission, it has about 110,000 miles

    A couple weeks ago I started my car in the morning and reversed fine but when I put it in drive and pushed on the gas it felt like I was in neutral for a second then it jumped forward a little and all was fine. Over the past 2 weeks it has progressed from that to now when I first start it up it takes 5+ seconds to go forward and when I stop at traffic lights it bucks - like it is attempting to toss me out the window (it feels like it is just willy-nilly switching gears) - and while stopped the rpms go down and it kind of shudders - then when gas applied same neutral/rev/jerk motion as before. As of a couple days ago, it has started "slipping" into neutral on the highway and it does not feel like it has as much oomph when it does accelerate. My questions are:
    1. Have I made it worse by continuing to drive it? / How quickly do I need to take it in?
    2. What type of auto repair shop should I take it to? (i.e. transmission, dealership, witch doctor?)
    3. Is it a good idea to get "used" transmission parts?
    4. Are there any associated parts/fluids/mechanisms (doohickeys?) that have contributed to my problem and should be checked as well?
    Thanks so much,
    Susan
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    1. Have I made it worse by continuing to drive it? / How quickly do I need to take it in?
    2. What type of auto repair shop should I take it to? (i.e. transmission, dealership, witch doctor?)
    3. Is it a good idea to get "used" transmission parts?
    4. Are there any associated parts/fluids/mechanisms (doohickeys?) that have contributed to my problem and should be checked as well?


    1: Yes / ASAP.
    2: An independent local transmission shop with a good reputation, i.e. not a major chain.
    3: Absolutely not.
    4: I would guess that the transmission hasn't had the regular service that it should, i.e. fluid and filter changes plus band adjustment at the appropriate intervals shown in your handbook.
  • Thanks so much for your help - this is a great site.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Thanks so much for your help - this is a great site.

    You're welcome, and good luck! :)
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