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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • Took car in this morning - they said that my radiator was the culprit and caused the damage to my transmission so they are putting an exterior cooler (not sure on term) on to the radiator and the pump in my transmission was broken so it needs replacing/rebuilding. There was a burning smell apparently coming from it as well... est. grand total: $1600-1800. They said it would have been cheaper had I brought it in sooner- so thank you for your prompt reply.
  • What would cause a 4cyl, 5spd to not even be pushed off? Its an 01 model Wrangler with 87K. Nothing special. Just will not start and its getting on my last nerve.
  • My jeep just started being very sluggish, and the idol at times will run ruff... I have also noticed when i go to speed up i have no power,( i can put the pedal right to the floor and nothing)... and at times i will hear a popping noises that sounds like its coming from under the hood... also at times it just feels like its not running with full power and only half... I have brought it to my local jeep dealer and they said that they didn't find anything wrong when they hooked it up to the machine... So they put some fuel injector stuff in the gas tank... Well as you can see it's still not any better..Soooo I put 2 other different fuel injector stuff in the tank and tried dry gas
    ( full tank for all three.. and one at time) .. I find its not as bad .. It seems to be worse when it sits for a while and i go to take off... The loss of power, very,very sluggish, and i hear the popping noises under the hood.. so i have to back off for a second, and then it will give me some power,. I also find at times when i tried to put the pedal to the metal the rpms go high then go down...I don't travel much to and from work and the mall.. So when i did go to the jeep dealer they said i need to drive it out of town for a little while... so i did it hasn't help... Im very frustrated and sad, i sooo love my jeep ... Im thinking my next step is to bring it to another mechanic to see if they have any suggestions.. Looking for some help and suggestions... Thank You... Tracy... My jeep is a 2004 jeep wrangler, automatic, 23,000 miles...
  • Just gonna throw this one up there because i know ill get a good solid response no matter what it is, thanks to the members of this great site.

    When i start my jeeper up in the mornings (after a night of sitting not running, i.e. engine is cold), i back out of my driveway, put it in drive to go on down the road, it lags a little bit before the gas really responds. the lag is about 1 second, but i can push on the gas and it wont really respond and then it will kick in.
    granted it might not give it enough time to warm up and what not, but sometimes you gotta go when you gotta go.
    its not really a problem because there are no real consequences that i can see, just wondering what it is or if it could really develop into something ugly.

    thanks in advance
  • Over time i have done a lot to my jeep such as cold air intake and a throttle body spacer. Recently though i have noticed that my jeep doesn't have as much get up and go along with having very hard times getting my jeep to drive over 70 on the highway. Very annoying sense i have an hour plus drive to work each day. Does anyone know why i would be having so much troubles driving faster then 70. Its a 1997 wrangler sport. I have also recently replaced the clutch and have a new limited slip transfer chase in it.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I have also recently replaced the clutch and have a new limited slip transfer chase in it.

    New clutch is good, but would the new limited slip transfer 'chase' be a case or a chain?
    Either way could you give more details please as I haven't yet come across the limited slip version.
  • wwsdwwsd Posts: 1
    The brakes on mine squeak sometimes if I let is sit more than 24 hours, but they have always done that since I bought the Jeep new. (2006 Jeep Wrangler X 6 cyl.) When I first bought it with 3 miles on the odometer the check engine light came on right after I drove about 5 miles away from the dealership. I took it back and they changed a sensor. Got about the same distance as I did before and the check engine light came back on. Took it back and they kept it overnight, turned out to be a bad weld, whatever that meant.

    I haven't had a problem with it until now. Came out one evening to go to work, turned the key, it turned over but wouldn't start. I took it to Firestone and they diagnosed it as the computer going out. I then took it to the dealership and they diagnosed it as fuel pump module. So that's where I am now... Hopefully, I won't have anymore problems, but I'll keep ya'll updated. :sick:
  • I had a very similar experience with my 98 Jeep Wrangler TJ and after reading this forum and others, I began to question the O2 sensor, which I've learned, is very easy to do by yourself. I believe it cost about $60 bucks at the auto supply store for the sensor itself.

    I am in no way a mechanic, expert or anything of the kind. I just had a similar problem, researched it, worked with my mechanic and that's what solved the problem for me.
  • i have alrdy replaced my O2 sensor only one of them though if there is only one for some reason i think there is 2. but it does kind of seem like it started a little after i replaced the sensor but i did most of my changes right around then. i do think my cat is gone bad it used to rattle and stuff but that stopped some time back so i dono what it is but thanks for the help any other ideas let me know
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If your cat was rattling and now it's not, I'd be willing to bet you have a partial blockage and bad flow through the exhaust. I don't know if that would throw off the downstream O2 sensor or not... Sensor may be fine, but that cat may be the root cause... hard to say from here though.

    -Paul
  • rlm4rlm4 Posts: 2
    I "inherited" a 99 Wrangler from son & it's been long process of getting it back in shape. Love driving it. Replaced soft top w/ a Besttop. Looks good. Has half doors. After many times of trying to find water leaks at sides of each door, I finally found the source. There is a velcro strip on the inside of each door to which 3 sections of the 'bottom flap' come up and attach. Water comes in right under the black horizontal velcro strip & proceeds to fill up (literally) the pocket that is created by the bottom 'flap' coming up and attaching to the velcro strip. I have to put towels in there to catch it but they often get soaked and water runs out and into the floor area on each side. IS THERE A PRODUCT that I could use to seal this leak? Don't know if water comes in at the stitching points or at the sides where the zipper is???
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I have a similar situation where mine does that too. Glad I'm not alone.

    Can you get a picture of the area where you think the moisture is getting in? When I looked at my passenger door, it was wet up towards the top, not down in the front corner where the 3 pieces come together, so I'm wondering if it is the same issue.

    For now I just empty it out every so often.

    -Paul
  • i also have the same problem. Believe its a besttop problem were instead of being sewn on the metal frame it is velcro which seems to soak up water. That our i haven't get it pulled tight enough around the frame but i pulled as hard as i could and i could only get the velcro part of the way attached. You could try the water repellent for material and just spray the crap out of the velcro and the whole inside part of the door dono if it will help or not just an idea. Let me know if you figure anything out.
  • looking for more power out of my 4.0. Was wondering if anyone had any idea what i good system would be to get more power. I have already put a vorteck cold air intake and a throttle body spacer. on it but i was wondering about ram air superchargers or turbos. Didn't do much research yet but there is a web page the look ok. It is http://www.superchargerswarehouse.com/howsuperchargerswork.html
    if anyone has any thing i should know it would be a great help thank you
  • the defoster unit cuts off with the blower set anything higher then the 2nd posiston. I can hear the vacum close when i switch it higher then the 2nd setting. There is plenty of heat, but won't come out of the defoster, which I need the high setting here in Chicago. the heat selector lever, moves roughly and basically on has a high very hot setting. A/c doesn't work at all (agian do big deal here in Chicago). I bought a used whole unit, but I want to make certain this would fix both problems before I open the dash up.

    Also, how do I replace this unit, if that works...I am not concerned about the airbag on the passendger side..after reading many posts.

    Thanks for any input.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Sounds like the actuator door between defrost and vent is not working properly. The slide controls on the 97 are mechanical and probably pretty easy to fix if it is just the controller.

    However, if you plan on getting back there behind the dash, it will NOT be as easy and you REALLY need a factory service manual to guide you.

    -Paul
  • My 99 wrangler 2.5L starts with high idle and after 2 or 3 sec. idle goes down and is very very rough. and sometimes dies out. What do I do. I replaced both o2 sen. I am getting great fuel pressure. plugs and wires are new. I love my jeep but this is driving me nuts.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    No codes being thrown?

    Perhaps the Idle arm controller. Perhaps you have a stuck throttle cable? If my hand throttle for my offroading gets stuck, it'll do that. I've also seen my gas pedal get stuck in the full down position while driving on occasion. Just have to tap it to get it to unstick. Mac, any suggestions on what may cause the gas pedal to stick down like that?

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    So does the rough idle remain, or does it clear up when warmed up?
    I'd be surprised if you don't have any retained codes. Anyhow, I'd suspect either the TPS or IAT sensor, or the Idle Air Control.

    However, before you start throwing parts and money at it, I'd try cleaning the throttle body if you haven't done it in a while.
    Use a sensor safe throttle body cleaner, and don't forget the back and edges of the butterfly or the IAC passage.

    image
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Mac, any suggestions on what may cause the gas pedal to stick down like that?

    The most common cause (on all vehicles) is a floormat catching the side of the pedal.
    Other than that you just need to carefully examine the linkage from the pedal to the throttle body.
    It helps to have someone else operate the throttle slowly while you observe.
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