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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • Did this problem with the blower motor/heater ever get solved?
  • No problem not fixed I really trying to figure out to tell if i have power in plug that goes to switch dont know what wires are what and it's 15 here alittle chil ride ly
  • this place has been great to me so far... i can't remember how many things i've been able to fix just by reading the stuff here... many thanks for that!!! i hope you can help with this one...

    when i get into my 98 wrangler cold, it runs great for as long as i want. when i park it, go in somewhere for a while and then when i come out, start up, it will drive ok for about 10 t0 15 seconds then it hesitates, splutters, pops, stutters, just like there was a choke messing up... after about 30 seconds to a minute of that, it straightens out and runs like it should...

    i changed out plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor... that helped a little, but it still does it...

    i've done some reading on the web and think maybe there's an O2 sensor that can cause this? what do you guys think?
  • This sounds like the safety device in the trans is kicking in. It is designed to prevent you from pulling loads greater then it can handle and prevent damage to the trans.

    Several things may cause this. For myself it was a Snow plow, too much air pressure against it at high speeds.

    For you it may be something different. Towing a trailer, improper tire size to gear ratio, other accessories attached to the outside of the vehicle causing wind resistance, etc. or a faulty safety device in the trans.

    Hope this helps.
  • Your initial problem seems similar to mine, I have yet to determine the actual cause. When I accelerate, there is a metal on metal scraping sound from the transmission. Clutch depressed or at a level speed, the sound goes away.

    I have a 2004 wrangler with 120K mi. The only repairs I have had to make on it so far were at 80K mi, the shocks and brakes. at 100K the water pump, and from what i see now, at 124K the rear main seal leak, and this transmission problem. I would have to say that this has been a very trouble free vehicle for me. And hope that your luck will be better with your next one.
  • nobody have a clue?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The best place to start with his sort of issue is is to check for codes.
    Although not necessarily relevent in this case, it's also a good idea to mention which engine you have.
    If you want a WAG, then before investigating the O2 sensors I'd check out the IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) sensor. It's on the inlet manifold.
  • My 2005 Grand Cherokee heat/AC blower ONLY works on the highest speed, is this a switch or blower issue...or both??
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I don't have any specs for the GC to hand (this is a Wrangler Forum), but if it's like most other Jeep HVAC systems then the resistor pack that's used to reduce the fan speed on the slower settings has probably burned out.
    There's also the possibility that the resistor circuit is fused separately from the direct high speed one, so check your handbook to see if the blower circuit has two fuses.
    Finally, it's possible that the switch is faulty, but this is the least likely cause.
  • I have seen this problem a few times this year on dodge vehicles. On my own wrangler as well. Each time it was related to the resistors burning out. In most cases replacing the switch component will fix this problem as the resistors are often attached to it switch unit.

    In most cases this is not a very difficult item to replace if you know some basics and have patience. I do not recommend replacing only the bad resistor as the problem could reoccur sooner than you may like.

    But as always in any electrical situation... Always check all of your fuses first. ;)
  • I am brand new to the Jeep market but have always been fan of them. I just bought a 99' Jeep Wrangler. It has 92,000 miles on it is that a problem?
    The real issue is however it is an automatic, I know I know what youre all thinking. However driving it is easy but I dont want to bust it up. With the command trac system consisting of 2H-4H-N-4L I have been switching from 2H to 4H when the vehicle has been stopped, is this bad for the vehicle? I just started thinking that maybe it needs to be changed while in movement like a manual vehicle... so i started playing around with it. I pulled it back to the N-4L area however it was stuck and hard to pull... is this because my Jeep isnt in the best of shape? It had been stuck in the snow and while trying to drive it out I tried switching it from 4H to 4L... as the car lurched forward and was no longer stuck in the snow... IT SHUT OFF! Did it stall? Long questions I know but if anyone can point me in the right direction Id truly appreciate it, Im lost and it's only an automatic!
    Thank you
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited February 2011
    You can expect at least another 92K from it if it's properly maintained.
    You can change from 2H to 4H while stationary or on the move.
    The best way to engage 4L is to stop and put the main transmission in N, then use the transfer case lever to select 4L.
    Engage D in the main transmission then drive off.

    As to whether you stalled it or not, I don't know I wasn't there. ;)
  • I have a 4.0, 6-speed manual transmission, 2005 Jeep Wrangler. Since recently having the dealer replace the clutch and flywheel I have been experiencing a pronounced vibration in the vehicle at approximately 2500 rpms, regardless of which gear the car is in. The vibration is similar to the feeling of riding on unbalanced tires (tires were rebalanced and problem remains). The vibration significantly lessens above and below 2500 rpms.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Since recently having the dealer replace the clutch and flywheel I have been experiencing a pronounced vibration in the vehicle...........

    It would be surprising if the the two were unconnected.
    Three possibilities spring to mind:
    1: The new flywheel wasn't checked for runout after it was installed.
    The tiniest speck of grit or rust on the mating surfaces where it's bolted to the crankshaft is the usual culprit, and if it's not entirely square to the crank then there will be a vibration.
    2: Similar issue with the clutch cover/pressure plate. Either something preventing it from sitting flat on the flywheel surface, or it's been distorted buy an incorrect torque sequence.
    3: The front propshaft was separated at the slip joint and replaced out of phase (same for the rear if you an SYE kit on the t/c and a rear propshaft with a sliding joint).

    Whatever, let the dealer take care of it; it's their issue to fix, not yours.
  • Take a look at the drive shaft. Check the U-Joints for wear or damage. Even a broken seal.

    When the U-Joint starts to go bad, you will get noticeable vibrations that vary depending on your speed.

    Your problem could be completely unrelated to the clutch work. And it is an easy diagnosis and cheap fix. I would look there first.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Your problem could be completely unrelated to the clutch work.

    It could, but it's been my experience that unless the two issues are entirely unrelated, i.e. "since having the tires rotated the windshield wipers don't park correctly", it's usually the case that the last item worked on is somehow the cause of the problem that appeared immediatly afterwards.

  • elmozdadelmozdad Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Jeep Wrangler with a 2.5L motor. Fuel Injected,
    When the motor is cold...starts and runs like a brand new motor.
    Let it sit for 15 minutes and its real hard to start. Real strong gas smell. Just like it's flooding it's self out.
    I have changed every sensor on the motor. I have changed the plugs, plug wires, distributer and even all four injectors.
    I am about ready to try a FOR SALE sign next.
    I love the Jeep except for this one thing.
    Anybody have anything or comment or fix for this aggrevating problem????
  • ok i have a 2004 jeep wrangler unlimited other wise known as a LJ and i was muddin it the other day and it was hard to put into 4H then when i tried to put it in 4L i stopped put the transmission in the N position and pulled up and it seemed like it engaged then i put it back in drive and stepped on the gas and it went to feet lunged foward and i was out but then it was like the whole transmission slipped into nuetral and its been acting weird when using the 4wd since can someone give me an idea of what could be wrong with it?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    ..............and its been acting weird when using the 4wd since

    I suspect you built up tension in the drivetrain while in 4WD which wasn't or hasn't been released yet.
    You'll have to explain 'acting weird' for me to make a better guess, but off the top of my head I'd say the transfer case is still in 4WD or else something is damaged.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's not vapor lock (you have fuel injection).
    Have you checked for codes?
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