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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • well i mean sometimes it will go in 4H but sometimes it wont and then when i put it in 4L it will ride for about 20 ft then slip out and when it shift it in to nutureal to put it back in 4L its grinding
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It sounds like the transfer case linkage needs adjusting. Do you have a body lift?
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X Manual Transmission and have gotten different answers to my questions in other forums. Do I have to press the clutch pedal when shifting to 4W HI or LO and does it have to be in neutral?

    I know I can shift into 4 WD while driving under 55 mi an Hour but do I have to have it in neutral when I shift? That seems odd to me.
    Can I put it into 4 WD while parked? Do I have to have it in neutral or press the clutch in or both?

    Same for 4W lo. Can I be completely stopped or must I be moving 2 or 3 mi. an hour? Do I have to have it in neutral and press the clutch in? For instance if I am stuck in a snow bank and cannot move, it is hard to get to 2 or 3 mi and hour.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You can shift into 4H (high) at any speed up to 55mph, although you may have to coast in neutral to shift back again.
    To engage 4L (low) Jeep say you can do so while rolling slowly with the transmission in neutral and firm use of the transfer case lever.
    Although it will engage 99% of the time, it will also make a horrible graunching noise 99% of the time too.

    The kindest way (for the transfer case) is to stop, put the transmission into neutral and turn off the engine. Then pull up on the t/c lever to silently engage 4L, start the engine, engage second or third gear and drive off.
  • I have a 2005 4.0L Jeep Wrangler with 6-speed manual transmission. The dealer installed a new clutch 6 weeks ago. The Jeep ran well following the installation except for the fact that the cruise control didn't work and the air for the heat/AC only blew out the floor vents for the heater. I went back to the dealer, and he re-connected the vacuum hoses which were inadvertently not connected after the clutch installation. After getting the Jeep back, the car had an extremely pronounced vibration, especially at 2500 rpms. The dealer replaced the clutch which lessened the vibration, but not completely, which I am experiencing at all speeds equally; it is not more pronounced at a particular rpm. What can be causing this vibration? The dealer seems to be perplexed at the solution to this problem.
  • no i do have a recently installed 3.25" suspension lift
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited April 2011
    no i do have a recently installed 3.25" suspension lift

    Again, I still think the problem is the t/c linkage.
    How were the driveline angles compensated for, motor mount spacers or lowering the transmission?

    Either one will require either adjustment of the linkage, or the addition of a kit to extend it.
  • so how much cost wise are we talking about or can i just do it myself or how do i go about getting it fixed
  • ablezablez Posts: 1
    My left blinker was working intermittently, so I turned my hazards on to see if they worked both blinkers and hazards wont work at all. It is not the fuse...not sure what the next step should be??? Thanks for any ideas/help!
  • myke500myke500 Posts: 6
    Check the fuse box under the hood first. If all is good there try to locate the flasher relay. Can't recall wherewithal its at but I think its under the dash near the steering wheel. Usually a silver round dome shaped object. Ask to see one are the auto part store. They tend to go out occasionally. But are cheap and easy to replace. This is assuming all 6 of your lights are working and not burned out. The bulbs on the rear. Are 2 lights in one bulb. So the brake lights may light still even though the turn signal filaments are burned out. Try these 2 things first.
  • After replacing the clutch on my 2005 Jeep Wrangler 4.0L with manual transmission a vibration and excessive "bassy" engine noise developed. The vehicle is still under an extended warranty. The dealer replaced the transfer case but the "symptoms" are still prevalent. Any ideas?
  • I have a 1998 TJ Sport 4.0 and have been frustrated with a ticking noise I get in the warmer months. It almost sounds like the ol card in the spokes ticking with some loss of power. In the winter time I never hear it, but now that it is June and warming up, it is starting to act up. I have no idea what could be making this. Sounds like it is coming from the rear part of the engine and the cat, can't really pinpoint it, any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Do you have any codes? The noise may be an overheated cat due to an O2 sensor problem.
  • iansciansc Posts: 2
    The fuel gauge has been broken for a while and yesterday I ran the tank dry. Today when I was driving (with a full tank) the engine starting losing power and my oil pressure dropped. I pulled into a parking lot in time for it to stall. The engine sounded like it was making every step in starting but wouldn't turn over and catch. I checked all the fluids and they looked good. No leaks under the Jeep. After letting it cool off for a about 10 minutes it cranked up and I fed it some gas for a minute before driving to the store. Has started twice since then fine but oil pressure won't go over 20 unless I'm accelerating hard.

    Please help.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Actually it sounds like it's turning over, or cranking, just fine and that firing up and running under it's own power was the issue.

    I'd guess the problem with the engine losing power and stalling is related to the fuel pump, which lives in the fuel tank and relies on being submerged in fuel for cooling.
    Already fourteen years old if it's the original pump, it would have been heavily stressed when you ran out of gas. People who run the tank nearly empty on a regular basis usually experience a dramatically reduced pump life.

    I suggest that you replace the pump module, which also contains the fuel gauge sender (I doubt the gauge itself is actually broken) and kill two birds with one stone.

    When you engine was stalling through lack of gas it would have been turning slower and slower. Among other things, oil pressure is related to engine speed, so as the speed dropped so would the pressure.

    At idle it would be acceptable for your oil pressure to be as low as 5-10psi, and with the engine warm at highway speeds 40psi would be reasonable.
  • iansciansc Posts: 2

    Thanks for the write-up. I've been putting off dropping the tank and fixing the fuel gauge sensor but your right, I might as well get both fixed. Now I just need to find a couple hundred bucks.

    Will respond when I fix it.
  • 1. i have oil in my air filter box of my 2005 jeep wrangler?
    2. my jeep seems to shake when i reach the speeds of 45-50, i have gotten new tires and alignment and it was fine then after a while it started again
    3. sputters when i try to take off in lower gear
  • My '97 SE 4banger sputters after about 30min of driving. It seems to only happen when the engine gets to about 210 degrees. Engine dies ten starts bck up but each time i have to drive slower and slower to keep the thing running. I have replaced the Camshaft pos sensor, Crank pos sensor, both O2 sensors, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor. plugs and wires are all new. Computer spits out O2 sensor code but I replaced that twice thinking one may be defective. starting to think it may be the onboard computer... please tell me I'm wrong.
  • this is probably not the problem, but i've had 2 similar experiences with my '98...

    the first was linked to the fuel pump/filter inside the tank... i'd drive for 20 to 30 minutes, it would begin to splutter and pop, rock and roll... and then eventually stop altogether... after a whle, it would restart and i'd continue on. i found, that on the bottom of my tank, there is an extruded circle on the rear right bottom corner... i'd thump that, and it would run again for a while...

    the second problem was an O2 sensor... the diagnostic computer would read correct, however, the wrangler wouldn't run worth a dime... i had it in and out of the garage a half dozen times when i was turned onto the local jeep "guru"... he fixed the problem, said sometimes the o2 sensor would read correctly, but still be malfunctioning, he described a manual test for it, but me not being a mechanic, didn't understand... or really care, i just wanted it to run.

    it hasn't missed a lick since...

    good luck!
  • gnfshngnfshn Posts: 1
    Depending on the year.. (i.e. Yours) the early TJs have become notorious for the blinker/hazard switch going as well. Its around 45 USD at your local parts store.
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