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Subaru outback llbean 3.0 engine=spark plug replacement

cdk15cdk15 Posts: 9
how do you replace the spark plugs on the 3.0 engine with limited fire wall clearance. Special tool?, sawsall?, jack engine?, lower drive train?. Another $400dealer service issue?Help please.

Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Have you tried yet? It really should not be that hard.

    IIRC the 3.0l H6's stroke is actually shorter than the 2.5l's H4 stroke. So there may actually be more room.

    Plus - I was able to change the plus myself on a 2.5l Forester. That means I had enough room with a wider engine in a more narrow engine bay.

    Your spark plugs should be a *lot* easier than that, and I managed.

    A low-profile ratchet might help, and I used two 2" ratchet extensions. You may not even need that many tools.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,282
    To do the plugs on my Outback's 2.5L, I would attach the following in this order: plug socket, u-joint, short (2 or 3"?) extension, long (6") extension, ratchet. I also removed the air cleaner on the passenger side and the battery/washer fluid on the driver side. It was not too difficult, but getting them (plugs) back in was a pain.
  • cdk15cdk15 Posts: 9
    sorry not the same
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,282
    Yeah, I know, but I figured I would throw out the info as I am not sure how drastically the 3.0 differs in terms of clearance, etc. All I know is that it adds two extra cylinders and has the same frame with which to contend..... :sick:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    My wife's previous car, a 2002 Legacy L, was exactly the same.

    I did the plugs twice, and it was no big deal.

    It was harder on the 98 Forester, with a more narrow engine bay, but I still managed to do that myself, also twice.
  • I tried to replace all 4 plugs one Sunday afternoon. After unhooking the entire air intake system and pulling on the boots- like the plugs were attached with expoxy, I finally gotthe right side in. I looked at the left- and gave up until I had more time. What is the secret on the drivers side? There is no room! Do I need to remove both the washer reservoir and the battery to get at the front? Then what do I do about the back? I just hope this side the wires are not "glued" on!
    Any help is greatly appreciated!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If you have ramps or jack stands try accessing them from underneath.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,282
    I am not sure how that generation is arranged as compared to the prior one, but that is exactly what I did - remove the battery and reservoir.

    The first time I replaced them, the boots were a royal PITA. I ended up tearing one before it finally let loose. After that, I just planned on replacing the wires along with the plugs, though they were easier to remove on subsequent tries.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Apply some di-electric grease before you reinstall them.
  • It took about 3 hours. I took out the battery and washer reservoir and the fron plug was right there. After much pulling and tugging- it finally popped off and I got the plug out and put the new one in. I thought the back one was going to take me all day- no room! I picked up my flat iron crow bar and carefully put the long end just behind of the boot head. With my other hand supporting the other side, I gave it the pressure and "POP" it came right off! Fitting the 3 adapters and the plug extractor into the plug hole, I was able to get the last one out. If I had discovered that trick, I would have started that on the first plug and had not nearly the aggravation. Thanks for all the recommendations and help. Until I see you again in 35000 miles....
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