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2010-2011 Buick LaCrosse

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Comments

  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    EPA has finally released figures for combined mileage of Lacrosse. Go to new cars here and chose buick. It lists lacrosse, 2010 & 2011.
    The figures shown make me wonder if GM has done another dirty deal with EPA as they did a few years back when making a truck ethanol capable.

    2010 shows combined mileage for: 2.4L = 23MPG, 3.0L = 20MPG & 19MPG with AWD, 3.6L = 21MPG
    2011 the 3.0L is not shown: 2.4L =23MPG, no difference for AWD, 3.6L = 20MPG.

    I have to wonder if these were taken accurately from the EPA or their dart board.
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,268
    Thanks imidazol,

    I tried that before and without success. I even went as far as to watch a couple videos but the result is still the same, nada. I will keep on trying though.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    Per prior posts the 29 MPG and 27.5 MPG were long (~1500) mile trips and the readings were DIC average at end. The "instant " readings were actually the result of another posters advice- i.e. set the DIC on mileage and then when car is at constant speed, reset the reading and after a few seconds the actual "instant" MPG will appear. As stated, this is VERY much variable due to conditions at the time. The average is more meaningful and close to manually calculated at time of fillup. The EPA estimate is pretty close to the actuals, at least on the 2010 3.0L CXL we have, with highway MPG higher. We needed a 30MPG heavier highway car for trips and the Lacrosse fits the bill.
  • enphanenphan Posts: 23
    I have CXL 2010, airconditioning works well, it blows cool air from the air vent. It is getting cold in MN and I start uisng heat. Heat appears not blowing from the same air vent, but from two vents from the dashboard the one I guess for clear the side windows.
    So I turn the heat on (raising temp and vent), did not see air coming out from normal air vents, but from two air vents on dash board.
    Is that what you are seeing or something wrong with mine?
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Posts: 2,770
    I would assume that heat would blow from the bottom vents, not the dash vents, except those on the sides.
  • gberpagberpa Posts: 44
    From previously mentioned trip using 91 octane added to a near empty tank, I did get 28.6 mpg per the DIC on my 3.6 L at 65-75 mph but it was only about 60 miles.

    When you say "set the DIC on mileage and ...reset", do you mean reset the avg mpg (which I've done before) or the odometer/trip1/ trip 2?

    Re your comments before on gas brands, I've got a highway jaunt scheduled for Wednesday where there are mainly Sunoco (I use their 91) but when I switch roads, there is a cutoff with a Shell and an Exxon...might try the Shell then.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    Comment (from previous poster) was to set the DIC on the MPG readout, which is the average reading since the prior reset and then push the reset at the end of the turn signal stalk. The next reading may fluctuate at first, then will settle on the "instant average". Our old cadillac had a readout for this but not the new software so you have to trick it to get a feel for what it gets in a certain environment and constant speed. ONLY a feel NOT an average as pointed out by others.
    Comment on fuel choice: Major brands are only logical choice, but exact one may not matter that much. Newer underground tanks with no sand or water or prior fuels (e.g. Diesel, Kerosene, Fuel oil ) are real important to those injectors IMO so we use majors only. Few pennies saves few dollars!
    P.S. We also got 29 at 65-75 on 2010 CXL with 3.0. RPM's probably close.
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,268
    edited November 2010
    Since switching to 93 octane my mpg in city driving has increased from 16.5 to 18.34 mpg. Interestingly, I got the same reading with both the DIC and manual calculation. Also, at 2,800 miles I am getting close to completing the break-in period so I don't know if that is a factor in the improved mpg.

    Nonetheless, with each day driving my CXS I am beginning to enjoy it more and more. I feel more confident driving it...in sport, manual or touring mode, bobbing and weaving in and out of morning traffic, able to park in tight spaces and I have become a pro at using the back-up camera. Perhaps it is all perception but the car seems to be running so much more smoothly, no more gear hunting as the transmission shifts are so smooth and gentle.

    Everything is holding up well and I have no reportable conditions. Yesterday morning when the temperature dropped to 28 degrees the DIC warned of possible icing and to drive carefully. The heater worked fine in the AUTO mode and was very quiet. So far I have only used the HVAC in the auto mode so I am not sure if the results would the be same in manual mode.

    In sum, my CXS gives me undiluted pleasure as I drive to and from work each day. Great car in all respects...and I have no regrets from switching from an Avalon to the Lacrosse.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks, you give me hope that my MPG will also improve, just over 1500 miles so far.
    My thinking is the shifts could be a bit more crisp, that is not so exceedingly smooth. Also it seems they should be a bit earlier with gentle driving, but then that might be negative for this engine.
    How much oil life do you have left?
    I am a bit surprised at 80% with only 1500 miles. The Ecotec had 10% at 11000 miles, but needed changing because of 1 year requirement.
    With colder weather approaching I suspect 0% will be showing before 7K. This engine must be harder on oil than Ecotec?
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    What brand of oil are you using? Is it "Top Tier". What is the average MPH shown when you get your MPG. What temp do you set for the HVAC? What is the outside temp range?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I'm thinking about dumping mine at the end of break-in. Top Tier is for gasoline I think. GM apparently has a special requirement for oil though, and I'll have to check if major brands meet it. There was some talk of one of the synthetics exceeding Mobil 1, but don't remember which.
    I'm currently thinking Valvoline because of that very long warranty they offer, but will need to check just what is covered. I don't want an oil that will allow premature wear or failure of seals.
    You mention HVAC setting. Mine does not seem to be accurate for cooling, requiring a much cooler setting, 72-74, than I'm used to. Even though it is supposed to auto detect bad air, I keep set at recirculate to keep bad smells & pollen out, yet sometimes I get a bad whiff making me wonder how effective the filter is or if it is not completely shutting off outside air.
  • enphanenphan Posts: 23
    that is correct, it comes out from the side dash vents, I think it is mostly for clear the windows. Not from the center for defrost.

    Most of the car I have, heat comes out at the same vent as air
  • gberpagberpa Posts: 44
    I ran my ~89 octane tank down a bit closer to empty before my Wed trip, couldn't reach the Shell station noted before and had to stop at a Sunoco on the NJ Tpke. I was getting about 28.8 mpg highway before the fill (zeroed at trip start on first highway leg). The overall average before the fill was about 23 on the DIC (21.9 via manual calc) for about 60/40 road-city driving.

    I filled with 91 octane and paid up +24c/gal-too much!- more than the $2.70/gal regular. The rest of the trip on the tpke averaged only about 27.5 mpg which was a bit disappointing. Actually the better performance was with a no-name (East Coast) that I've used for years with no problems.

    So, either I got a bad batch of gas on the tpke or my earlier conclusion on the advantage of 91 is not holding. I might do one or two more checks -if the price premium is right.

    In an earlier life working for a refiner, the word was not to buy more octane than your car needed to run knock free. The rest of the "story" was marketing. I've followed that on about 5 vehicles since then with no problems. So maybe thats what I'll wind up doing on the LaCrosse.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    In auto mode it should function like that. You can manually chose where it vents on CXS. Don't know about CXL, but probably if you have the dual zone system.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Other factors you need to consider are air temp, type of surface on road. Concrete yields better mileage than black top.
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Posts: 2,770
    Generally the way the system works in auto mode is that with heat, the majority of the air should come out the bottom. As the cabin warms, cooler air will mix in up top to the dash vents. Only oif you manually set the vents to the dash should you get hot air out of them.
  • I had the seat module replaced in my 2011 CXS on October 9th. I almost hate to write this down for fear of jinxing things, but the seat has behaved perfectly ever since!

    Two new things, though...

    First, every fourth or fifth time I start the car, I hear a fairly loud clunking noise. My husband is convinced that it's a backfire-type sound - but it sounds more metallic to me. Has anyone else had this happen? Since it's such an intermittent problem, I haven't brought it in yet... any suggestions?

    Second, I recorded my first CD to the hard drive last night. Love that feature, but was disappointed to see that it didn't take with it any of the artist/album/song info... did I do something wrong? Or have you all seen that, too?

    Thanks!
  • gberpagberpa Posts: 44
    Regarding, your new items, yes I've just started to note that 'clank' sound at start at about the same frequency. There seems to be no effect on driveabilty. I will check with the dealer on the next visit.

    I have mainly transferred mp3s ripped from my own CD library and from previously purchased music from a Sony online music source in Sony ATRAC format, also converted to mp3s. These were in individual CD named folders and artist/album/song info was retained upon transferring them from a USB flash drive.

    I hadn't tried direct recording from CDs to the HD (afraid without knowing the format used, it might not use a compressed format and could be using a lot of HD space). As I had a couple of spare minutes, I just sarted to record an album. It seems a bit slow so I stopped after the second track. The artist/album/songs were saved and played ok.
  • My 2010 CXS has the intermittant clanging / bang sound immediately as the engine catrches upon starting. The dealer wants the car overnight and I am putting it off until I need a service at 5,000 miles (tire rotation and oil change). I had it inspected once already at 1000 miles.

    At 1600-1800 miles, the noise seemed related to morning cold starts. It still occured under all engine and ambient temp conditions, probably every 7th start.

    Now, at 3100 miles, it has become infrequent and is one in about 12-15 starts. There is no noticeable correlation to temp.

    Another poster claimed that his exhaust and a long baffle had to be replaced to rid his car of the problem.

    My dealer claims to have never heard of this before. I don't have any confidence in Suburban Caddilac Buick of Troy.
  • I agree - no effect on driveability - I'll talk to my dealer, too, and will re-post with any response.

    I, too, have transferred mp3s and all the info was retained. I'll try another CD this weekend and see if I have better luck. Everything plays just fine that I recorded yesterday, but it seems odd to not have the artist/song info...

    Thanks for your reply!
  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    Yes, I had the same problem. ( Metal clunking sound on start-up.) Check my prior messages and that should help you.

    Let me know.
  • Interesting - I'm at 1500 miles, and haven't noticed any real change in frequency. I shared this forum with my dealer, and will fill him in on these experiences to see if it can assist in diagnosing the issue.

    Thanks for your reply!
  • Thanks! I should have searched for "clunk" before asking!!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Can you tell me what fixes occured?
    Will the seat still do easy exit?
    Does it move ahead before you get in?

    There are lots of posts about the clunk as you likely know by now.

    What type of CD did you copy to HDD? I copied a double to HDD, stamped CD, and info was retained, but not certain of quality.
  • They replaced the seat module... I don't use easy exit, and I'm the only driver, so the only thing I've noticed is that the seat doesn't randomly move on it's own before I get in anymore. So it's a perfect fix for me!

    The CD I copied is just a regular music CD that was just released last week. I can't imagine that it wouldn't have the artist/song info embedded with the tracks. In any event, I am">link title going to try another CD today to see if I have more success. Will post an update later...
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    I have the seat update on my 2010 CXS and it works. When I turn off the motor and open the door the seat moves back to the far position. When I get to the car, open the door there is a slight pause (should be longer) before the seat moves to the set position. Getting out and hitting the buttons does not do anything.

    Sometimes when I get in the seat has a touch farther to go and if necessary I correct by pausing the #1 button. The most it moves would be less than an inch.

    The seat has a built in feature that will automatically stop if it hits something on the floor blocking the movement. I wonder if when I set down if this triggers the stop. Have not verified this.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I don't know what determines when it has arrived at memorized location. The remote puts mine in a very reclined position about 50% of the time. And I have ended up cycling the easy exit more than once. Instead of it deciding it was in the proper location, it decides to go back even farther.
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    Have you had the new program installed by a dealer. All that have had it installed and have reported here have no more problems. Seems to work as it should.
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