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2010-2011 Buick LaCrosse

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  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Does it respond when you push accelerator?
    I too noted that it seems to bog to the point it feels like it might be on the verge of stumbling, misfire, something like that, before it downshifts on long upgrades.
    How is your mileage?
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    When I keep pushing the accellator slory it does not respond. What I instinctly do is tramp on it and even then it seems to react slowly.

    My mileage for mixed freeway and town driving runs between 18 and 19. Not sure what freeway only does - have not been on a trip for awhile. I am an easy driver - no fast starts, etc.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    how many miles on it? Were you ever getting the clang on start?
    That mileage is not impressive except maybe in a bad way.
    I too notice that it takes a lot of accelerator movement to see any significant response.
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    12000 Miles
    No clang
    Seems like I was getting better mileage when it was newer - but not sure. Does not seem much difference if I use premium or regular fuel - Shell or Costco.
    It IS a grat car except for the down shifting problem.
    I really love it!!!!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    That is part of my issue, mileage better before 2500 miles. It seemed to drop suddenly and that was the mileage when I started getting the very loud metal on metal sound at the precise moment of start. Others had exhaust system changed for that and no one seems to know the exact issue although suspicions of something loose inside possibly creating a bad exhaust flow. I'm mentioning it the next time in and will post back if they change it. Also that was around the time I started noticing a slight weakness in mild acceleration.
    I have run nothing but premium and it is Shell. I think I will fill with regular as a comparison.
    BTW, Mobil 1 is supposedly the factory fill on this engine. I saw an ad for a distant dealer a week ago advertising the dexos oil change special and it said part synthetic. I changed mine just before that and used Purolator Pure One cross from PF63 filter since it was not available. Refilled with Mobil 1. Old oil looked really nasty for 22% life left and discovered factory filter was missing anti-drain back valve so there is a good chance I was getting dry starts and don't know how that might have effected issues. I just ordered oil test kit and saved the drained oil. I'll post results when it is done. So it seems there is a possibility that the loud clank I was hearing may have been from the VVT mechanism because oil drained from it while shut down. Until started the mechanism is locked to start position with pins. Since normal control is via oil, no oil present may have allowed it to bang against the chamber limit.
    I keep my tire pressure very constant at the factory 35PSI for the GY 19" tires.
    The vehicle has its good points but came from factory with too many mistakes. Hopefully I get all those worked off. But in my view there are also too many short comings for this to be luxury although you'd have to hunt hard to find vehicles this size with all of them.
    BTW, I've heard rumors of a shift program update for this vehicle.
  • I was getting a clang at the instant my 2010 CXS started. It immediately went away when I switched to Shell 93 octane. Gas mileage improved as well.

    My clang was intermittant and not dependent on ambient or engine temp.

    Been gone two full months now
  • The blue tooth icon just means yu have the service turned on in the phone menu. BT has about a 30 foot max range.

    Why not just try it but you'll need two people. If it works the voice will just be heard in the car. My guess is that signal strength is not sufficient and car would need to be in "On" .
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    I keep my GY 19" tires pretty much at 35 lbs - have a good air pump in the garage. It increases on the road to 37 to 38.

    I just checked my oil and it is low and very dirty. I changed at 3000 miles and then again at about 7500 miles and I plan on doing it again in the next few days at 12,000 miles. I have not checked the oil between changes until now - but the dealer never said anything about the oil being dirty or low. Certainly I have changed the oil much more often than I have been advised by OnStar.

    My mileage runs between 18.5 and 20.5 now (I gave the wrong information before). I do keep track of my miles every time I get gasoline on a calendar but my wife stored the 2010 calendar and she is not here. Will check later and repost a better history from the beginning.

    If you find out anything about the shift program update let us know. I will ask next time I am at the dealers for the oil change.

    At 80 years old I no longer have the ability to do the things I should do, or used to do, on the car (and other things) so I take it in to the dealer (and pay for it). For example I do not think I ever had the hood open on my own since I purchased it until today. Bad - but the best I can do.

    I have two kids 16 and 19. The 19 year old drives his own car. The 16 year old has her license (and car) but I still restrict her driving to daytime only and not even to school. She is into competitive "Cheer" and practices three days a week plus some out of town competition. Most of my mileage has been driving her around. When I feel comfortable with her driving I will not drive much. She also works three or four days a week and she is allowed to drive to work as of about a month ago - I used to take her there too. Wife works so many times it is up to me to get her around. The mileage is almost all due to taking her to and from her activities

    And that is how it goes at this house!!!
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    edited February 2011
    cooley: Let us know if you find out about reprogramming the shift patterns on the Lacrosse. We had that done on an older GM and it improved the driveability overall and that car got 30+ on the highway at 70-75 so it worked and did not "search" for gears due to upshift preference for mileage.Oil change at 3-5000 max for GM-forget the oil life %!
    Pretty cool you is -80 and two kids 16 & 19. How old is the wife?
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    Michiko (Japanese) is now 52 and I have a couple of older kids by my first wife who died from breast cancer at age 44. The are now 50 and 52. Plus I have taken care of a few other kids in my lifetime. Michiko and I have been married since 1988 and I have know her since 1986. She was born and raised in Japan - it is a beautiful love story.

    I usually post everything I learn about the Lacrosse.;
  • gberpagberpa Posts: 44
    Have an appointment Wed for a seat memory module replacement. I will ask about elsewhere reported Nav system update and the shifting program. I seem to feel this shifting issue is not to bad for me. Although when accelerating slightly uphill, I sometimes see the "shift" go opposite to what I expect, eg rpm drops. But, this could be programming to get best mpg (??).

    BTW, ever since I reported the exhaust system replacement for my "clang" on startup, I have not experienced any more instances. Now at (only) 3170 miles
    due to 3+ weeks out of town without car. 2nd BTW: car started out instantly upon return (garaged at 20-40F without theft deterrent activated).
  • gberpagberpa Posts: 44
    I had the 2011 CXS in for service today (seat memory module and Nav data update). I asked about downshifting issues and a possible fix noted on this forum. On my car, I only notice a slight rpm drop on upgrades without mashing the pedal when I actually expect it to increase!. For me, its no big issue. What I was told that there is a "dead spot" on GM's 6 speed automatics and there is a reprogramming fix for some vehicles but mileage suffers. I told them if there was a "fix" for the LaCrosse that didn't affect mileage, to do it. Upon checking all the TSBs, they said there was no fix yet for the 2011 LaCrosse.

    Regarding the seat memory module replaced today and reprogrammed, after resetting my seat/outside mirror positions and setting up on "config" as I had previously had it [easy exit, memory seat, passive entry-all doors], the system seems to be working without the problems previously noted in my earlier posts. Also, the return to driver seat position on entering has a bit longer delay time than before which is more convenient. Of course, I need to give it a bit more time before concluding the fix is permanent.

    The Nav system was updated today. It must have been updated previously before December as the invoice then said "no change" but my 11/2/10 notes prior to that visit showed Version U40D, V 20.09.03, unlike my reported post which said U306, V20.09.03. Today, after service, it is U413, V20.09.03. It looks like the map is unchanged as a 2 year old street in my neighborhood still doesn't show. I haven't noticed any major changes yet. I think the default scale looks a bit "cleaner" and has a different font. As time and experience increase, I will report if other changees are seen.
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    I just took a trip of about 200 miles and averaged about 28.2 MPG. No airconditioner and very little in town driving. Used Costco Premium.

    However, there is no question there is a problem with the shifting. Numerous time it seemed to lag when I tried to pick up speed. It can be dangerous unless you compesate for the problem. I will take it to the dealer this week and see if they can reprogram with the new program that has been reported but not verified.

    It reminds me of Toyoto problems and could be just as dangerous.
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,289
    edited February 2011
    During the last 4 weeks the winter weather has been brutal in New England and as result gas mileage has suffered. Despite using Shell V-Power 93 octane during that time my mpg has dropped from a high of 20.1 to a disappointing 17.6 mpg (all city surburban driving). These were manual calculations so the measurements are pretty accurate.

    Meanwhile, my CSX has been flawless as I approach 5K miles in seven months of ownership. On Saturday I will be taking it in for my second oil change and first tire rotation.

    Surprisingly even with all that snow the interior floor mats and carpeting have remained relatively clean. This is due to the fact that I drive from my home garage to an indoor parking garage at work. To keep the exterior clean I have been using the automated “brushless” car washing places. They wash both underneath and the exterior without touching the car. I must say they do a good job as the car comes out as clean as from a conventional car wash. My concern, however, is that the high water pressure might affect the paint finish or enter the car through small crevices. But the seals are tight and so far no water intrusion.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    edited February 2011
    cooley: we just got back from 1500 mile road trip with 2010 CXL 3.0L and FWD only. Best mileage 29.1 at 75 highway only no air 2 adults. Worst 25.5 at 80+ when possible and safe. Speed is the biggest factor IMO. The shifting on the Lacrosse is programmed for mileage NOT performance. Big grades will result in one or two downshifts with the 6-speed trans trying hard to upshift for mileage maximum. If you keep your foot on the accelerator the trans on ours keeps it in the lower gear- if your let up it upshifts per the program preference for economy. Also we use the manual tap up tap down on BIG hills to avoid upshift and searching. If you got 28 MPG on a 4400# car the trans is operating great. The searching and downshifting is an algorithim built into the program. Corvettes have just the opposite as do most performance cars. Cadillacs with same engine you have drive differently due to program set for performance NOT mileage.
    I suggest practice driving with the manual shift on hils and you will love it.
    28.2 MPG is outstanding with any car!
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    Bwia: We get less than 20 in town driving with 3.0L 2010 CXL. Sticker shows 17 city 26 highway for ours so the actual is a little better in town and MUCH better on the highway, Same as youe actual experience methinks.
    Also the paint is not affected by water pressure. Washing the salt off is the best thing you can do for the carbon steel components, mostly under the car and in the engine area. Automatics wash the under side also so they address that concern. We use after market rubber mats over carpets to save the good looks from the flotsam and getsum of winter.
    Our recent 1500 mile trip from south to north was flawless with mileage from 25.6 to 29.1 depending on speed mostly. The 3.0L & 3.6L engines "like" 87 and higher octane gas- we use midgrade that halps the mileage on the highway and affects it little in town. Enjoy the great car!
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    edited February 2011
    crankeee: I can be on level ground and want to speed up to pass and there is hesitation and no speeding up. Does not down shift to give me the extra needed. I keep pushing on the petal and no response. Finally I can get it to downshift and speed up but it is simply not right. I guess I need a program based on performance - I will sacrifice the MPG for what I feel is a safer operation. I do use the manual shift for hills.
  • I would like input from other Lacrosse CX and CXL owners with the 3.0L V6 engine.
    If you have your LaCrosse in park and get the RPM's to 1500 - 2000, does your car start to shake?
    I discovered this one very cold day last week while I had the RPM's around 1500 for a few seconds. All of a sudden the car started shaking. It's hard to keep it in that range but I would be very interested to know if others are experiencing the same thing?
    Please let me know what you discover.

    DAVE
    2010 LaCrosse
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    So the 3.0 does it too. My 3.6L does it at around 1500 and if cold it sometimes idles up to that RPM and shakes.
    I really would like to know why.
  • Is yours the AWD? If so, have you had it back to the dealer for the vibration fix for AWD's?

    I'm glad to hear from others that have the same problem. For a while I thought I was the only one.

    DAVE
    2010 LaCrosse
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I have CXS. What does AWD have to do with the shake?
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    We have 2010 CXL 3.0L with FWD only and ~8000 miles on vehicle. I have not noticed any shaking and we were up north in 15 degree weather. I have habit of letting all cars "settle down" a little when started. The cold start mechanism does set idle at 1500 or so until it warms up some. E Net Rider posted that the oil circulation takes a few seconds to stabilize in the upper engine for various reasons that may have some effect- I don't really know. Ours has been great so far, with outstanding performance and as high as 29 mpg on highway only. Early miles on new car is always anxious due to breakin and concerns about parts being assembled correctly- likelihood of getting a good car with good engine is improved with models getting good reviews. So far so good. Maybe your problem has to do with cold start valve or some other control. The OMBII diagnostics should report any malfunction to the tech for correction - good luck and enjoy the new car once you work out the new car gremlins!
  • Question... I help my wife into the passenger seat, she has her fob in her purse. I get in and drive; next day she gets in to drive and the car sets memory functions to my settings. Does she need an aluminum foil purse? How does the car know which fob is the driver's fob?
  • For the shake in the AWD, there is an appearent fix by the dealer. Someting in the transmission is able to be re-programmed.

    DAVE
    2010 LaCrosse
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    As to oil circulation, my concerns about it getting to top of engine or anywhere else were related to the bad PF48 filter that came from factory. It had no anti-drainback valve. What would be expected with such is that all the oil in the galleys would siphon back down into the pan. Dry start.
    Suspect is the loud metal to metal clang on start. It was too loud and of intensity that it would seem to defy explanation by something loose in exhaust system. And changing from 87 to 93 octane would also seem to defy stopping the sound unless something was errant with valve timing. The new VVT allows the exhaust valves timing to be extended(retarded) to the point some exhaust gases get drawn back into the cylinder rather than having to be drawn in through the intake and controlled by an EGR valve. (some systems can also vary the duration)
    At this point I don't know the exact method of controlling the cam change. That is I don't know how the controlled pressure of oil goes into the chamber that varies the cam position. It is in effect a double sided chamber with a vane in the middle attached to cam. Oil could be pumped to one side to advance and released depending upon the resistance to work against the valve springs to force it out and retard the shaft. Or it could have oil being pushed to both sides of vane and proportioned according to the desired amount of advance or retard. The GM system supposedly pins the cam shaft to a start position upon shutdown. At what moment or how it is released so the oil system takes over I don't know.
    I strongly suspect that the bang was the vanes slamming against one of the extremities of the chamber because of lack of oil or air being flushed upon start.
    And the rough idle occurs cold or hot at around 1500 RPM.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    Rider: We have not had the rough idle problem with our 2010 3.9l CXL that now has ~8000 miles. I do notice that the cold start valve or system does set the idle at 1500 until the engine is warm enough for the heat to operate in the cabin. seems longer in duration but the car heats up fairly fast and the idle returns to below 1000 w/o A/C idle increase operating. your comments on the oiling with the cam activated VVT setup is above my knowledge level. I knew the cam sensors could act up but the mechanical design is above me. We had another car with 3.0L DOHC/DI/VVT and the cold start valve would act up in conjunction with the throttle body intake valveing and create a rough idle. also had the injector problem posted before that caused bigtime slow rpm idle roughness. That car had an oil pressure gauge so you could tell how long it was starved for oil at least at the sensor- Our Lacrosse does not have such a device so no clue here- anyway no clanging or banging here. If it is engine design problem it would seem to be in all cars with 3.0/3.6L DI/DOHC/VVT engines, and it is not.
    Ours has been flawless so far. The dipstick anomaly is hard to figure out, but I know to read it above the full level to make sure it has 6 quarts.
    Good luck with the rough idle diagnosis- maybe it will result in a TSB.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    3.9L, typo?
    There are many things that only happen to a few. I was cruising for info on 3.6L. In the Acadia forum, there is an entire thread just for complaints of timing chains on 3.6L. Rather scary thought with it showing up with low mileage sometimes. I haven't verified but there were comments that it was occurring in Cadillacs as well.
    That engine is used in a lot of vehicles which makes me wonder why it only seems to be big problem in Acadia.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    edited February 2011
    My bad. S/B 3.0L CXL.
    I would think that timing chains would be a proven technology by now.
    Alignment used to be a big issue on new engine designs, but I would have thought they had that bit of engineering down. I always preferred the chain approach to the belt (Japanese) with required replacing.
    Maybe the key to Arcadia problems is more likelihood of towing with that platform, but usually not an early mileage development if due to wear.
    I also am watching the long term reliability of the 3.0/3.6L engine family
    on various forums and auto reviews. Do you know if the same chain is used on 3.0 and 3.6 since it is basically the same engine family? The engines have been used in Caddys for quite a while in various configurations and not a lot of chatter about problems in my view.
    I don't look for problems, but it does help to solve them if you are informed and aware of the fix. GM has always been great with fixing our cars in the past and in the world of the internet there are few secrets kept for long!
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    Rider: We checked the Cadillac forums regarding the timing chain problems and noted a few things. Most of the cars were 3 or more years old and almost all mentioned low oil levels that resulted in timing chain failures. The posters also seemed to rely on the oil life monitor and/or Onstar to tell them that the oil level was low after driving more than 5000 miles before oil change. My past experience with DOHC/DI/VVT engines is that FREQUENT oil changes at 3000-4000 miles MAX was the cheapest preventive maintenance I could do to keep all those moving parts (including the timing chain) happy. Checking the dipstick and changing oil is not rocket science.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    In that Acadia forum there is still a lot of guessing as to the base cause. One thing I noted is timing chain used is much different than older technology where you had multiple links between each tooth. The new ones look like a common roller chain or bicycle chain. It is likely a weight saving thing.
    Also mention of some foreign name vehicle, maybe Suzuki, that uses same engine and it had a lot of chain problems. Some saying that they greatly decreased the recommended change interval and recalibrated the OLM to less mileage as well. So, maybe someone thinks it is an oil problem but I'm not so sure. I knew of someone who had a Ford 400M and bragged he never changed oil, only added when light came on. The chain went just past 100K which is amazing with that type of abuse. But of course that was a real timing chain.
    Some in the Acadia have issue and claim they always changed early and never let it get low. I'm pretty well convinced it is more than an oil change problem. There may be weaknesses in the oil flow, maybe just plain weak design of chain. Because some have had the camshaft shimmed for end play when chain was replaced it might be oil flow. At least one had to go back and had heads replaced in short time because the problem returned quickly.
    Word in that group seems to be that stretching is what is happening to the chains. And worrisome to me is that none have reported that the gears were changed at the same time. And that may be part of the issue. That is they may no longer manufacturer chain and gears as a set. And thus you get a bad wear pattern from onset and end up with early failure. Maybe most are just lucky that the initial wear pattern set during breakin is a good one. Maybe that is why we have a 3K breakin period.
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