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2010-2011 Buick LaCrosse



  • bobinorbobinor Posts: 63
    I think the follow-up question is whether the car computer can track what grade of gasoline has been put into the tank and for how long. What evidence would invalidate the warranty? The owner manual tells about the effects from using the various grades of gas. My problem is that the salesman told me "regular" gas was all that was required for my CXS. The sticker has no indication of octane requirement. Didn't they used to? Who pores over the owner manual before they buy a car?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    If the fuel you are using causes the knock sensor to activate retarding of ignition, that data would likely be recorded in computer. How long a data stream is recorded I don't know.
    The bigger issue seems to be whether you use tier 1 or tier 2 gasoline. Tier 2 can cause damage that won't be covered, such as sticking valves.
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    edited October 2010
    For information on "Top Tier" gasoline see . This website gives a list of companies that have Top Tier. For additional information see

    Google "Top Tier Gas" for more information.

    In our area we have only two plants that provide gas for all of the stations in the San Francisco Bay area stations. How would one know if the gas from these plants have the necessary additives to qualify. Would one assume that additives are added in the respective delivery trucks?

    Would the Chevron additive "Techtron" qualify the gasoline when it is added to the gasoline.

    Since "Top Tier" gas is not universally available across the US and there is no way of knowing which gas meets the standards I would think GM and others would have a tought time not honoring the warranty.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    That is much the same here. Although a port, most local fuel comes from one refinery and each is mixed according to their standards I've been told. I can't verify. Also, those who are top tier don't have the stickers on pumps to indicate that. I have yet to see that sticker anywhere, even if they are on the list.
    Also the new legislation that allows up to 15% alcohol would not meet the requirement of 10% maximum.
    It would seem difficult for GM to deny warranty and truly wonder why they did not make this vehicle E85 capable.
    All Chevron gasoline contains some Techron and they are listed as top tier. It might help in other brands not meeting specification but because of the other top tier requirements it might not qualify as meeting them.
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Posts: 2,770
    I dunno what's wrong, but my father took his CXL w/ the 3 liter from RI to Atlantic City and back with 4 people and luggage and got 30.6 mpg going 65-70.
  • GM Dealer says nothings wrong!
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    The other thing involved at least in California is that we have our own requirements that may make it impossible to qualify for the "Top Tier". I have never seen it or even seen it advertised here.
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    I have a CXS that is now 6 months old (3.6) and 8000 miles. I have noticed that the tire pressure on all four tires (19") goes down 3 or 4 lbs about every 2 or 3 months. I get notified by OnStar that they are low. They all go down at the same rate.

    I assume this is because of the 19" wheels which would have less air (but same pressure) as the smaller wheels. The smaller wheels with wide side walls may absorb more bumps. With the 19" you hit a bump and the air is forced out some place. Does this make sense to others. Does anyone else have this same experience. Never had this problem in the smaller wheels on other cars.
  • Some have blamed the tires as more porous, especially the GoodYears. I don't wait for Onstar but use the built in system to check.
  • tom2246tom2246 Posts: 29
    I had Goodyears on my C5 that did the same thing as described, loosing air pressure without a change in temperature. I have the Goodyears on 19" wheels that mimic the C5. My take is that to achieve the grip the GY are more porous. I changed to a harder tire, less grip, and the noise went down and no more pressure issues. If I keep the Buick I will be switching soon.
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    Actually I also use the built in tire pressure system - but do not check it on a regular basis and yesterday I received my report from OnStar and decided to post. It would seem to me if it is the fault of the tires (Goodyears) it ought be considered a defect and should be replaced. Remember the Firestone problems.

    When You think about it and compare mileage driven and decrease in tire pressure it would mean that it looses about a lb. of pressure every thousand miles. For me this would be every 2 to 4 weeks. Not acceptable.

    Could one use one of the tire stop leaks to seal things - what would this do to the air pressure system.
  • cooleyddcooleydd Posts: 105
    If you change tires (an expensive option) what tire would you go to?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    They may not advertise it anywhere. Your tighter requirements might make all of it top tier, no lesser fuel available.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    There are products out there that claim they are TPMS safe, but I would not use them or any such product. It would seem very unlikely that you would get uniformity of it and not effect balance. And if it continues to shift it would be impossible to keep balance.
    I think most tires now have a liner that is to the inside of the tread as an extra precaution to keep from getting air between the carcass and the tread. So your major areas of seepage would have to be the sidewall or bead of tire.
    Some tires seem to be much worse than others at losing air.
    My last set of new were Khumo Ecsta P235R60/16 and were excellent on Aurora until they got about 4 years old. Rubber was starting to harden and as to air, only added in the fall as temperatures started falling, that is a colder cold inflation temperature.
    Although I've seen no reviews for these tires on our vehicle, I'm leaning toward a Continental or Michelin.
    I've read a couple of reviews about the RSA on our vehicle. I'm suspicious of the latest review because of timing which did nothing but rave about this tire. The other one rated it as worst tire he ever owned and would not put a free set on anything.
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,160
    edited October 2010
    According to my service manager OnStar takes it reading at about 2:00 AM in the morning when the tires are cold and temperatures at its lowest. As a test he set my psi at 34 and drove the car around for about half an hour and voila the driving temperature raised the psi to 35. Before I became aware of that I used to set my pressure at the recommended 35 psi but after a day's driving it would rise to 38. That I believe is responsible for the louder road noise.

    On the other hand, switching to nitrogen might be a better solution to regular air. In my Avalon I used nitrogen and I never had to worry about tire pressure again.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    > In my Avalon I used nitrogen and I never had to worry about tire pressure again.

    That probably was more a result of the tire brand and construction quality than of the gas inside the tire.

    80% of your air now is nitrogen. How is adding another 10% perhaps going to change the permeability factor of the tire carcass? The nitrogen game is a scam to make money. DO some searching online for the machines they sell to the shops that generate, supposedly, a higher nitrogen mixture from normal air for the shop to put into your tire and charge you for it. The ads are based on how much profit the shop can make from making you feel nitrogen in your tire is meaningful.

    CR did a study years back of tires and air loss. They stored tires and monitored pressures. The Michelin X-One had the lowest loss of any tire.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    My Cobalt is often not driven for days. When the monthly report is due, it takes a reading shortly after the car is taken out and on the road. I can tell by the mileage on the odometer at the time of the report generation. It doesn't take the reading with the ignition turned off sitting in the garage, in my assessment.
  • tom2246tom2246 Posts: 29
    On the C5 I went to Michelins. When I got the G35 I did the same thing ASAP, from GY. The Michelins are a harder tire so will be a bit different but will also last longer.
    On the C5 and G35 they are noticably quieter.
  • tom2246tom2246 Posts: 29
    What you are seeing is normal expansion from the heat generated on the road-tire friction. The lower the tire pressure from reccomended the lower your gas mileage - increased rolling friction. I would expect that if the tires were to maintain the 35# as normal the normal increase in pressure should be in the 2 -3 pound range when driving. IMO you should not have to drive the car to get to 35#. Also from my experience with the C5 when the car was cold it would heat-up to about 2-3 # more when pushed. I think the dealer was saying what they did to make you go away - IMO.
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,160
    edited October 2010
    Here is a 7-minute video that compares the 2011 Lacrosse to the 2011 Avalon and the Lacrosse wins hands down. Not sure what models but they were not top of the line.

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