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2010-2011 Buick LaCrosse

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Comments

  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Is that the correct pressure for the tires according to the placard?
    Is the pressure displayed on DIC or are you reading it with an accurate guage? After a lengthy run to warm tires, what pressure is displayed?
    I have the CXS Touring Package and the ride seems to be softening a little at 5600 miles. But I still believe I hear my noise from road and suspension than this vehicle should have. Over 3800 miles of highway and loaded vehicle may have helped breakin the suspension.
    I'm still of the opinion that this vehicle should have had air load leveling on the rear.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    We have 2010 CXL with 3.0L V-6 and H-arm rear suspension. also have 18" wheels with Michelin tires. Ride is excellent in our 6000 miles of experience. We do hear more road bump noise than with 60 series tires on other GM models. The lower profile tires have less "cushion" per prior posts on this site and telegraph noise to suspension. We use 36# cold with gauge that translates to 37# hot on the road. The suspension keeps the car down on the road, even with bumps, so our view is the noise/feedback is from the low profile tires. Other posts on 19" rims with even lower profile tires make more noise and cushion even less. We prefer the feedback from the road and the engine/exhaust as a speed indicator and do not find it to be intrusive with the triple layer glass and noise dampening on this model.
    great car so far- waiting for long term quality with this new model. Price wise- the CXL is a good choice of cost versus value of upscale options.
    good luck.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Is "choppy" the correct definition?
    Are you running in sport mode? That is, are the 19" part of touring package or a separate option?
    Everyone with the touring package has been getting GY tires and I'd bet they are part of ride issue as well as noise, poor in snow, and not the best on wet road.
    What is cold inflation and are you monitoring it closely via DIC?

    Choppy is how I might have defined my ride on a 96 Olds Aurora when the pressure was too low. Tires I had on it were a bit soft in sidewalls compared to GY and some Michelins. The result was that not enough of the impact at surface was immediately passed to struts and less valving would open to properly handle rapid movement. Yet compression of the sidewall would take longer to fully release resulting in choppy bounce of sorts. Too much air and every small road defect would try to pass through, so I had to hunt a sweet spot for ride. That vehicle and Cadillacs were the reason RFB were created. The bodies were very stiff compared to other vehicles and would pass slight tire imbalance to the passenger compartment.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Crankee, you got one from the time I started shopping. That was when H-arm was standard on CXL and CXS. And that makes me wonder why they later added 19" to the H-arm, that is when you had to buy it. I sure would like to see the engineering notes on that.
    I guess I'm happy I missed that time since they later added other options not previously available such as SBZA. At the time of my ordering, the Touring package was not available on CXL, but I believe it now may be an option.
    I compared the price of CXL with options added to bring it to level of CXS and the price was quite close, but still missing some standard options that came on CXS. Also they did away with 3.0L by the time I ordered. And that may be a regret with gas prices steadily climbing.
    Does your guage agree with DIC pressure? If you are reading a garaged temperature that might be why you only see a 2# increase. If mine, 19", are read at ambient temperature for cold, I consistantly see a 3# increase once thoroughly warmed.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    Rider: We posted comments on the H-arm and concluded it was a nice addition to the CXL that we got kinda by accident since GM may have included since CXL had AWD option and CXS had touring option at that time and the assembly line gurus made the H-arm standard for a while.
    Also posted earlier that we wanted 3.0L in lieu of I-4. 3.6L is a great engine but we went for the 2010 CXL at the time for total cost/benefit of the package. GM used the 3.0L in other models per prior posts.
    Wonder how the actual mileage is on the I-4's in 4400# vehicle?
    Yes our cold gauge (Accutire) reading is 3# less than the hot readout on the DIC and it is pretty close to DIC. Also the painted 18" alloy wheels seem to hold air in cold temps but we think that is the Michelin tire bead as much as rims - chrome plated GM rims seem to do better in the past IMO.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I was later told that you could always get H-arm on CXL even though it went away according to build it site. And my book printed in July says it is not available on CXL but standard on CXL AWD.
    I know it sure confused me, the changes they made during the year. And wonder if GM sales and production were confused or had their wires crossed.
    Just checked on the weight and they are still confused.
    Specs from
    http://www.buick.com/vehicles/current-vehicles/lacrosse/features-specs/dimension- s.html
    did not show 4 cylinder on CXL. And the weight is really nuts. I knew the CX was quite a bit lighter when it was available with 3.0, before 2.4. I think they have not corrected it since changing to the 2.4 and shown as 3829 lbs.
    And the CXL 4196 lbs, not saying if that is for AWD or not. But check this, the weight shown for CXS is now 4045 lbs. That can't be right.
    Knowing how mine performs in quite hilly or mountainous areas, I'd think the 4 cylinder would not be up to it, not without it constantly shifting a lot and bogging down. When mine was loaded, it bogged a bit before downshifting. Load that four cylinder with four adults and cargo and it will surely have to work even with lower ratio final drive.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    Weight wise it has to be close to the 4400# with either V-6 since basic block is the same. could be 4200# with I-4, but CXS has to be heaviest model IMO. The CXL with AWD required the heavier ( read more hardware) anchored H-arm setup -methinks that is why they promoted it. All the engine swapping and model reconfiguring had to be done at the top cause the sales/marketing guys hate the schizophrenic behavior that confuses the customers - not to mention the lines & service techs.
    Cadillac tried a 4 cylinder and the brand suffered, so it seems they said only V-6 in Cadillac - no I-4's. 3.0/3.6L production had to be constrained by CH XI and downsizing so once again, Cadillac wished and received.
    The shifting pattern is a function of the new 6-speed and the economy first shift RPM programming as you know. We use the manual shift option on big grades to avoid the searching that results from the economy priority. We had a 98 bonneville that had to be flashed (reprogrammed) due to bad code in the shift sequence program. Same quick upshift and slow downshift but wider shift points (due to 4-spd & 3800 engine) so no searching.
    GM will figure it all out and come out with TSB's at some point- but OK for now. Great vehicle for a great price. Enjoy!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    It certainly confused me for awhile and still a bit. Mostly on rear suspension. Around the time they stopped H-arm as being standard on upper models, I saw a number of vehicles on lot with what would be a third suspension system on rear. And in part my confusion came from what was often called H-pattern, not H arm. The H-pattern was accompanied by a trailing link and the crossbar of the H was located at the center of the vehicle. Yep, 4 arms plus trailing link. The third system I saw was very similar to what Renault used in 60's on some vehicles except for spring location. I described it at that time as a heavy cast aluminum right triangle with the right angle corner and one other located forward of the wheel center and attached to the frame by two pivots. The spring and strut were located at wheel center. On the Renault the spring was wound like a clothespin spring and located at the two forward pivots. A method that would also stop any lateral movement of rear wheels.
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,063
    I am back from my three week vacation in the Caribbean and all the fears I had about a dead battery and low tire pressure in cold New England while we were away did not materialize. With the remote start on the key fob the car started on the first try. Wow! What a good feeling. And all OnStar and Bluetooth communications are normal. So the rumor that OnStar will not work if the car is inactive for five or more days is not true.

    In terms of tire pressure I did not fare as well. The pressure in all tires dropped to 30 psi, a larger drop that I had expected and so far I have not noticed any adverse driving characteristics or out-of-round tires. The handling is the same as before though.

    On a side note, my rental car while on vacation was a 4WD right-hand drive Suzuki Escudo (Sidekick). They drive on the left side of the road so at times it was a bit unnerving on some of the small and mountainous country roads. But I enjoyed my Sidekick nonetheless and perhaps will consider buying one for some fun driving around town.

    Happy New Year to all and feed the forum.
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,063
    edited January 2011
    Winter in New England, what winter?

    Winter is here with a vengeance and we are buried under almost two feet of new snow upon the 20 inches two weeks earlier. But my Lacrosse is undaunted. Press the push button start and the engine roars to life in an instant. The heater, on automatic setting, heats up the cabin very reasonably quickly, albeit a little slower and louder than my Avalon. However, with heated steering and heated front seats the Lacrosse is truly a climate control environment.

    Nonetheless, compared to the heated steering, the seat warmer is much too slow. It takes about 10 minutes before you begin to feel the warmth. That was also true in my Avalon so I would have to conclude that might be due to an engineering limitation.

    Don’t know what GM can do next to improve the cabin environment but I am pleased with how the Lacrosse tames the harshest of winters and hottest of summers.

    Happy motoring to all and please share your winter driving experiences.

    -
  • bobinorbobinor Posts: 63
    bwia: How have you prepared your LaCrosse's wheels for the snowy driving? Have you waited for the roads to be plowed before venturing out? Any experiences to share about the vehicle's handling in the harsh elements? You don't have an AWD, right?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    you asked before I could.
    I hate the way the salt gets on car, but not cars fault.

    Do you use the remote start and for how long at what temps? How much does it help with wheel and seat warming?
    I'm sure it makes MPG suffer some. How is that BTW with winter temps, the MPG?
    There are some nice features and will probably use remote start more during summer when it really gets hot.
    (on some these heat and cool features can be programmed to come on during remote start)
    I am also wondering about winter tires on yours. It seems that GM should offer a winter package, or summer if you never see cold.

    I need to make appointment to work on that punch list this week. Still concerned about CAF and wild swings of temps interior. Also lighting level differences of guages compared to too dark NAV screen. And dumb seat memory, MPG big drop, rough idle at 1500 RPM, etc.
    I now strongly suspect CAF problem is air leaking around sides of filter because it is badly deformed. Trying to get a head start on issue, I checked if one was available. Also the new oil filter. Neither are available in this city and the next step up supply chain is likely Jacksonville FL or Atlanta.
    The price on the CAF is now $73.

    Is there some way to create a signature that shows what we are driving?
  • bwiabwia Boston Posts: 1,063
    edited January 2011
    Bob, this is what I wrote earlier about my snow driving experience:

    #1333 of 1383 My first snow and ice gave me sweaty palms by bwia Dec 20, 2010 (6:15 pm)

    It wasn't pretty but I made it home on a sleek and snowy afternoon commute sweaty palms and all.

    Someone had asked about dedicated snow tires and after today I recommend them very highly. The CXS and the Eagle RSA is not designed for snow, sleet or icy roads.

    This afternoon I started my commute in very light snow. Then I ran into a traffic jam so I made a detour to my detriment. The road was sleek and icy and when I tried to climb a small hill I started skidding in an "S" side to side direction. There was no traction whatsover. I don't know how I did it but I finally made it to the top of the hill.

    But what goes up must come down. And this time I slid to a stop at the bottom of the hill. I heard some funny noises so I assume it had to be the ABS and stabilitrac taking control.

    The traction control worked just fine because without it I would be unable to move from a stop at the red light up the hill. Driving on the snow was not too bad as the car seemed unusually quiet. That was not the case however driving on the salted and sanded sections that felt like driving on an unpaved graveled road.

    Overall, the CXS with the low 19" profile tires is awful in the snow and I would recommend dedicated snow tires or stay off the road completely.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    We have the 50 series Michelins on 18" rims on our 2010 CXL. Having always used Michelins we plan to replace with those, however has anyone checked out whether you can use a higher profile tire say 60 or 65 series with the Lacrosse setup. First question may be why would you do that. The Michelin X series were getting phenomenal mileage of 80,000+ with the 60 series S & T speed rated tires. Some of the new low profiles offer 60,000 miles.
    Just wondering if any of you have considered going back to higher profile if even possible?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    edited January 2011
    There can be many reasons for the mileage difference. You might want to check the results of comparative tests for each model of tire. You might find a big difference in traction, wet, dry, & snow. Some tires now show lateral traction too.
    Also look at ride quality, noise, etc.

    Because of the GY tires I had done some research trying to locate a tire of slightly higher profile. No luck because of variances in tire diameter which would through some changes into the equation that I was not willing to gamble with, especially with tire price.
    BTW, mine are the 19", so you might have a better chance of finding the same diameter, revolutions per mile, in a different profile.

    New compounding occurs, but it has been my experience that tires get harder with age and likely miles. When I was young I had a set that lasted 100K. Looking back, probably around 60K they had became hard and had given up a lot of their traction, especially on not dry surfaces. I will never do that again, good tires are just too important.
    The only way I can see those super high mileage tires as having an advantage is if you are a very high mileage driver. I know some that have claimed for years that when a tire gets 4 years old it is at end of use. About the last 15 years of experience has shown me why and most of it is related to hardening of the compounds. An 80K tire for 4 years means 20K+ per year. I have never experienced the Bridgestone's claim that their dual compounding extends that period of performance.
  • kjs8kjs8 Posts: 53
    Wanted to post good news on the seat front. My dealer ordered and installed the new replacement memory seat module and I wanted you all to know it solved all of the discussed problems. The seat retracts back when you turn off the car and open the door for easy exit and then when you unlock the door with just the handle there is a slight delay to allow you to enter and the seat returns to your preset position. It's been working on every exit and entry for a week now with no loss of position. Thank you Buick and GM.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    edited January 2011
    Rider: Thanks for the comeback. I agree with your comments on high mileage tires. I had a set with 60+ on a 98 Bonneville and went in for the old adjustment battle due to sidewall cracking. The seller stated the tires were 8 years old and no warranty due to age. The kid changing them has always been helpful and recommended taking them off in light of my highway driving. Exactly the point you made. takes years to put on 80M and the tires are aged out. The Michelin Primacy series offers a tread wear guarantee and in my opinion they are the best mfr- bar none! they make great tires and back them up if you stick to the rules. If I find a better OEM alternative I will post it.
    Thanks for the post
  • Just passed the 1000 mile mark and the message console tells me that the AWD system and the rear axle need service. A few weeks ago the message console displayed the message that the traction control system needed service and then blinked off. Didn't think anything off it since it didn't come back on.... So it looks like I now have a problem with the traction control, AWD, and rear axle..... Not looking good. Looks like I'm the proud owner of a 2011 buick lacrosse Lemon. :( This is the first American car I've bought in 20 years.... Looks like a mistake (shame on me). GM should have been allowed to go bankrupt and have been liquidated.... My tax money at work bought me a POS.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    You've informed me of more than I knew on the AWD version. I'd get it to the dealer immediately.
    Hoping it is something simple like GM neglected to make sure a connector was properly engaged and locked.
    If something has failed, then it does not speak well of GM quality or longevity.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    edited January 2011
    awdbl: Very interesting messages from the drive system. Methinks that all three events are a product of the same sensor that may or may not be a mechanical problem. I had an ABS light ( pre message center) and it turned out to be a sensor built into the rear brake hub. Whole hub needed R&R and problem went away. Explanation was salt and corrosion (maybe), but not on a car with 1000 miles. Betcha it is a lose connection to one of the ABS, Traction control or AWD system which are all related to the same feedback loop IMO since the messages are intermittent but important due to driveability issues. Obviously a warranty issue and hopefully a short no cost service call but still frustrating on new car. Good luck.
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