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2010-2011 Buick LaCrosse

18182848687102

Comments

  • ab348ab348 Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, CanadaPosts: 1,545
    Thanks to you and e_net_rider for the info.

    I would also much prefer a CXL instead of the CX. Unfortunately both local dealers order all CXLs for stock with black leather interiors which I absolutely do not want. Titanium would be my first choice, cashmere second, but none are available.

    The best deal locally on a CXL is one in Quicksilver with black inside. My current car is also Quicksilver and I like the color, but it would not be my first choice and certainly not with black.

    I found one I like about 200 miles away with better colors and it even has chrome wheels. Dealer trade may be possible but I will think about it some more.

    2011 Buick Regal Turbo, 1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Holiday Coupe

  • bobbob2bobbob2 Posts: 28
    re: 2011 LaX CXS

    Anyone know how to rename a recorded disk ?

    Owners manual gives steps but my Infotainment System does not display same selections given in manual. For ex, I find no "Rename Recorded Discs." Furthermore, schematics show different button names on Overview , e.g., CD/DVD/MEM where I have MDD/DVD/AUX. [Manual even has its own buttons mislabeled which is sloppy and annoying]

    Is this correctable with a reprogram, or am I missing something or just stuck and shud not waste more time?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Can you tell me what page of manual you are referring to?
    Did you mean HDD/DVD/AUX, HDD being the hard drive.
    Are you in the infotainment manual, Lacrosse Navigation system?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Well I've run up to a situation that is befuddling and even slightly mesmerizing.
    We all know we are able to get uploaded data via OnStar, and downloaded data via them as well, such as unlocking doors, killing engine, etc.
    What else can they download?
    Have any of you had a hint of some update being downloaded to your vehicle?
    The window of opportunity for it to be otherwise is quite small, that is someone doing it via direct contact to vehicle.
    One of the suspected items is downright dangerous to do to someone that is used to their vehicle reacting a certain way.
    Sound paranoid? Remember the answer to that? Certainly it is well within the realem of possibility these days and what I'm thinking of could save GM big bucks. Instead of issuing a recall and going through every dealer in the nation, they just download software updates directly to your vehicle.
    Are they doing it is what I want to know?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Well I've got it back. They changed exhaust. I note the color is not exactly the same nor are the welds. Suspicious, I'll being taking a magnet to it to make sure it is stainless steel like the prior.
    The replaced one tire because it would that RFB. Vibration may be gone, but only short distance, lower speeds so far.
    Still has play in steering.
    And the seat memory may be worse.
    Still no answer as to which portable HDD's actually work.
    And likely other issues that I forgot to recheck or haven't popped yet.
    GM is supposed to call me tomorrow. I've got an earful for them, tier two or some tech level.
    I'm ready to bail out. Too darned much wrong with this new vehicle.
    Someone just put a new axiom to me yesterday. "When it comes off the line, that is as good as it gets." In other words, that is as good as it gets.
    I will monitor in case someone has need of an answer, but it looks like time needed to contact some other sources.
  • bobbob2bobbob2 Posts: 28
    Hello Rider,

    I am looking at 2011 Buick LaX Owner Manual[the thickest book]. I see footnoted in its intro "Part No. 20859621 B Second Printing" and this No. is bar coded on outside back cover.

    On p. 7-28 in Infotainment System section I found exactly what I was looking for under Renaming Recorded Disks. Except that my Menu knob can t locate the selection "Rename Recorded Discs" as instrux dictates so I'm stymied.

    The fact that the Manual's accompanying schematic Overview p. 7-5 does not match my car leads me to think that I have changes or options unaccounted for in Manual. For ex. I have NAV & DEST buttons and what Manual shows as MEM/DVD/AUX I have HDD/DVD/AUX.

    In case you wonder why I am spending time on this I've recorded several CDs but the default title on several only read Vol.1 or something nondescript. I confess I am thrilled w/recording ability[no more loose CDs in cabin] and will probably max out. I have time to listen in car, more so than elsewhere.

    BTW sorry to read of ur tribulations w/urs.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks for the thought. I'm convinced this one should never have been built.
    As to your situation, you have a newer book. Mine came with revision A and does not have such info.
    But more importantly, yours has HDD. You have far more memory than those with only MEM. Having HDD indicates you have NAV system and that means you are looking in the wrong book. The best system is explained in the thinner book. Take a look.
    As of yet, I have not figured out making playlists. Although you have 10GB available on the HDD for music, you can fill that rather easily as well. I have not yet checked to see if copying a CD to HDD converts it to another format or it is left in the CD format, CDA.
    You will find that there are a couple of different recognizeable formats. Although the 11 speaker system has some shortcomings, I prefer to start with a true source, that is something that has all of the original sound (lossless). The closest to that may be the m4a format.
    What seems to be most widespread are mp3 and when done at the highest bit rate, 320, I seldom notice the difference.
    One of my issues now is getting the system to work with USB portable HDD. It is the only thing big enough to store my music, making the system sort of a portable juke box.
    If your needs are less, I find thumb drives and my iPod touch work.
    Both are pricey on cost per gigabyte. Current pricing of thumb drives would be about $150 for 2 32GB thumb drives (64GB). I bought a USB portable HDD, 500GB for $60. And I'm adding to my music library frequently.
    It seems that working with the music files is easier done on the computer, then copied to your media of choice (that works).
    One option, although discs but less of them, put it on DVDs which would hold approximately 7 full CD. But make sure there is nothing but audio on it or it will refuse while driving.
    I'm still waiting on an answer from GM as to which USB portable HDD actually work.
  • bobbob2bobbob2 Posts: 28
    Thx Rider.

    You left a lot of info most of which was 7' tall and I am only 6'

    Fortunately I have a son who's in IT for a major and will ask him for translation asst. Do u work for NASA? :=]

    When I was buying my LaX2011 a salesman stated I wud be able to copy up to 75 CDs on the 9 gig drive. Based on wot u know is that an overstatement? I thot w/only ~6 CDs copied I had mucha room for more copies.

    Hope u publish which USB portable GM recommends.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    As to a lie, sort of. That standard would be from about the time most people were still on dialup. MP3, one of the acceptable codings for music on this system, has many available 'bit rates'. I've seen some available downloaded songs as low as 32 kilo bits per second (kb/s). The highest available rate for MP3 is 320kb/s. MP3 are lossy coded so that even at the highest rate some fidelity of the original will be lost. But since some of the detail of the original is lost it makes a smaller file and you can put more songs in the same space.
    Example, if your original CD is full, it contains about 700 MB of music. By moving to an MP3 @ 320kb/s, it might be about 350 MB. If you drop all the way down to 32kb/s, the file then would be about 35 MB. So in the same space you might record one CD in native format, CDA, you could put 20 CD's.
    Note, these are not actual numbers, but an example.
    There are other formats that the system will also accept such as WMA, m4a.
    WMA is windows media audio, a proprietary format of Microsoft, which gained some prevelance for awhile. M4A is the audio portion of a movie format and probably the truest quality of those available except the native CDA. That is you get compression, but very low loss. I think that M4A is also compatible with ALAC (apple lossless audio codec).
    Remember, it is never worthwhile to convert a poor quality file to a higher, better quality.

    I will post if I find out what HDD works. No answer so far.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Following on to whether you can do 75 CD's, I don't really know the answer to that if you are talking about recording them to the HDD. That was one of my original questions, how they are recorded to the HDD and I don't yet have the answer or forgot.
    My question was like this. Does the record function copy the CD to the HDD or does it convert it to another format such as MP3?
    Since it is also supposed to replace a multi-disc CD player, it would have to stay in native format, CDA, and thus be impossible to put that many on the HDD.
  • bobbob2bobbob2 Posts: 28
    I see ur point but don t know answer altho I mite run into it practically as I keep loading.

    I use 75 CD capacity becuz it was a fig. mentioned by salesman. And if storage is truly 9 gig I didn t have any question.

    With Sirius aboard I probably will have no need or desire to load near that many.

    It s a shame Buick doesn t build more interest around the computer. Younger generation mite be drawn to it. I am far from a techie but I am enjoying this new dimension in driving.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I just checked my music download folder and it seems you could get a 1000 songs onto the HDD if in very high quality MP3.
    Of poorer quality, many more. Only your ears or others in vehicle can tell you. My ears are getting old and so I want to be able to hear all that is possible such as the true ringing of cymbals or other high notes and true drums or other low notes. I want it as if live.
    I too have XM, but find myself listening to it less and less. First, any channel gets a bit repetitive, although many channels.
    And they invented the system when medium quality MP3 was the standard. Many older music tracks were not of high quality when they were recorded originally. Vinyl had its limitation as do tapes. If music was re-released from the original metal tapes on CD, it is usually much better. Before the age of CDs, certain instruments were avoided during recording because they would not come through faithfully on a record or regular tape. You can tell the difference when listening.
    I'm still not sure I like the idea of live music being translated into bits and pieces, but when listening to recorded music, it is much better.
    Also with todays technology, they have the ability to add or replace the instrumental portions of a recording or even retranslate it so the full depth of instruments are on the new recording.
    Technology has come a long way. Definitely a new dimension in some ways. Nice to have soothing music sometimes in traffic.
    There commercials seem to be aimed at younger generation when they tout the Nav and pause play. Too bad they did not have some people at GM that actually knew what they were doing to build this into a flawless machine. Mine with the GY tires seems to ride more like an SUV.
  • bobbob2bobbob2 Posts: 28
    Rider,

    Interesting background.

    My ears are probably less discerning than connoisseurs and when I sing along I tend to be high on volume to make up for quality so true sound wud b wasted.

    I have noticed that certain bass notes are scratchy as I believe addressed in other blogs. I haven t invested time to fiddle with controls from defaults to see if I can eliminate.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Are you noticing it from CDs as I am?
    This should not be and shows a defect in the system somewhere. I played with fade and balance a bit the other day and it seems to come from more than one speaker.
    Beware that loose objects can create a fuzzy sound when they vibrate to a deep bass note. Any loose parts will also.
    And it seems the speakers in the doors are better with bass than the two in rear deck. I'd certainly like to get a look at all of them but am more concerned with the play in steering at this point.
    Later.
  • optiwenchoptiwench Posts: 3
    I have the same vibration. Really start to feel it around 60 mph to high 70's. I can feel it in the seat and steering wheel. Had it back to the dealer 3 times. They balanced the first time, did a road crush(?) and a tire to wheel match the second time, then kept it 3 days the third time. They have no idea what it could be. They took it on the interstate with me in it , for about 10 miles and definitly felt it. I have 2000 miles on it and this was to be my last car for a long while, as I am retiring soon. Wish me luck, I am going back tomorrow and try to get them to take it back and give me another. I am just sick over this expesive mistake. There was nothing wrong with the 2008 VW Passat I traded in. I think its still there, maybe I can get it back!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I'm having a bit of trouble deciphering your message because you chose to start a new thread rather than replying to a message that was pertinent to your situation. I'd be surprised if the hosts don't move it.
    I'm sorry that you too are having issues but I'd be surprised if anyone has as many as I.
    But here goes. Road crush? Are you referring to what is more commonly known as RFB, road force balance. I'd make sure that is what they did. That is what they did on mine and replaced a tire because of results. But I also now know why they say to replace tires in pairs because with 11K on the other one I can definitely feel a difference. Make sure they do all four.
    If that did not show any problem, then there are other things to be done. Because you feel it in seat as well as wheel, it may not be related to rear. Ask around and see if anyone still has one of the old balance on vehicle machines. That way you can isolate to axle(s) that are the problem.
    If not, proceed with a thorough inspection of anything that rotates while driving such as driveshafts and brake rotors. Brake rotors need to be balanced during manufacturing and those that are double layered often have weights put into the vent area. The drive shafts can be more difficult and may be necessary to replace to determine if they are involved. But then per my dealer, GM wants them to be all like the new ones rolling off the line and substitution seems to be their recommended method with some items because they don't want to let mechanics know too much.
    2000 miles seems to be about the time I noticed anomalies relating to break-in of joints in CV shafts so maybe your's just broke instead.
    I'm in the same boat as you with buying last car for a long time. I planned it as a trip car and very disappointing. Two hours on this seat will tell you one of the reasons. For a long time I thought it was creases in my jeans that were causing pressure points. Alas it is the seat itself and in may ways these are horrible seats. Who would have checked that closely on such a vehicle? It would be expected that for 40K you'd have some of the nicest seats in industry.
    Good Luck.
  • optiwenchoptiwench Posts: 3
    Hello e rider! Thanks for your response. I am not very computer savvy and often do things the wrong way. I am happy, and lucky to get your response. Yes, road force is the proper term. I am glad you knew what I meant.
    My trip to the dealer yesterday was not really productive other than the service manager admitting that they were aware of a ongoing problem with the Lacrosse line. It goes back into the shop on Wed. and I will be sure to mention the things that you suggested. I am from old school and know a little about older cars, and nothing much about newer ones. I did mention to them that maybe they could check what used to called the U-joints.I believe that to be CV joints?? I will post later to see what they determine, but it seems like it will be more lip service. Thanks again. Carol
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    By now anyone should no that all vehicles since 1996 use an OBDII computer system. Believe it or not, it is 16 bit and we seem to be stuck in the now much defunct real world of computers. 32 bit has been being used since the advent of Windows 95 and Windows NT 3.51(?). But that is not what bugs me. It is that the only places the equipment to deal with the system is the dealer. Take your vehicle somewhere else and they troubleshoot to find you need a new computer. They buy it, take it to dealer for programming, then install it.
    That is they have the capability with that machine to change things without your knowledge. Lets say you are getting a light for overtemp. Your warranty is almost out. They bump the set point enough so light does not come on. Then when warranty is out they bump back down. I don't know it works exactly like that, but this is for sure.
    I have been aware of a shift update for some time. What initially bothered me is it had to be installed before base warranty was up or you would be charged. And I simultaneously noted that it was for customer satisfaction and would decrease gas mileage.
    Cruising multiple forums, there are a quite a few drivers who have been unable to adjust to the amount of pedal needed to get the desired degree of acceleration. Example: 09+ Malibu with I4. The common complaint read like this. When accelerating they always got a drop of two gears. First they were missing the first spot of added pedal that would unlock the TCC, torque converter clutch. But hitting the zone that also added one gear drop. To the floor automatically dropped appropriate gears and unlocked. These shift updates were all noted as decreasing gas mileage.
    I had no problem with the factory shift in either vehicle, yet it has been installed on my 11 lacrosse. I never asked for it or complained of shifting! And I have to wonder when it was installed. It has just been this week that I've noticed it. Somewhere I came across a suggested shift RPM of 3500 RPM. It was definitely taking a lot more peddle than I'd normally drive with to reach that before shifting. But now with mild added acceleration, especially upper gears, it winds to 4500 - 5000 RPM before upshifting.
    I did not notice immediately after getting vehicle back last time, but could have missed it with pretty much city drive.
    But, I mentioned the change in seat memory programming on the loaner I took back. It had a full five seconds and no stupid move if rear door was opened. About 2 miles from home I stopped to pick up a coffee. When I got back to the vehicle, I was a bit disorganized putting coffee on roof, opened door, then realized I needed something from pocket. I retrieved it, grabbed the coffee, got in, and still had plenty of time before it moved. Once at the dealer, it was out of my sight for maybe 10 minutes. After they showed me how mine was which was just around the corner of the building from the other, I told them I wanted mine like the blue one, the one I just returned. We went to the vehicle so I could demonstrate. It was now doing the same stupid stuff mine is. I was dumbfounded, egg on face, confused. How could this be? I had the vehicle for about 10 days and set the seat memory and other settings to work before I drove off with it. And it worked fine the whole time, except the stupid parameters for the SBZA.
    Right now, my best guess is that like the signals they can send to slow down or even disable, they can send other programming via the OnStar system. I can not imagine that anyone would want that, especially for the SBZA because the range is shortened so much that it is bound to result in accident if you are unaware of the change.
  • crankeeecrankeee Posts: 297
    Rider: We bought our 2010 CXL with 3.0L on 7/8/2010 and asked about all the current field mods being updated. We were assured that they were current. also asked about shift program mods a couple times and told that our Vin# called for none.
    As discussed before, our car has "learned" our driving habits and the car shift behavior is noticeably improved over time. Going up any long steep grade at 75-80 results in no shifting. Below 70, or when behind a car from Ohio , Wisconsin or Florida in the fast lane doing 45 MPH, we do have a shift down situation. That group is hard to program around IMO.
    Update on MPG: 29.7 MPG at 70, 28.6 at 80 when safe. low 20's in all city driving. all in all OUTSTANDING for a 4300# car. Great handling with 18" Michelin all weather setup. VERY well designed and assembled vehicle.
    Good luck with your problems.
    Crankee
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