Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Hyundai XG300/XG350 Maintenance and Repair

2»

Comments

  • orv2orv2 Posts: 13
    Read Page 1-66 in the Owners Manual -Do not "Top Off". Follow this and your problem will go away. Mine did.
  • orv2orv2 Posts: 13
    fuse panel under left side of dash.Flip off cover.Find "fog"fuse,also c/lighter replace fuses with same value.Dash lights- scroll wheel up located next to the " TCS" switch. Luck.
    Orv2.
  • orv2orv2 Posts: 13
    Spray the gas cap gasket with silcone spray.

    Orv2.
  • newtonx1newtonx1 Posts: 3
    Yesterday my wife's car, 39.6Kmiles, was having issues with the accelerator. She was driving on the highway and the car appeared to die. The engine was still running, but when she pressed down on the accelerator there was nothing, the engine would not even rev up. She coasted off of the highway and when stopped the car's check engine light came on and the car died. About 2 minutes later the car started back up, check engine light off, and she was able to drive it another couple of miles until it happened again.

    I took the car to a shop (not Hyundai dealer-it's out of warranty) who was unable to locate a problem or duplicate the issue. My wife picked up the car and drove it home today without problems. I did some research and found that some owners have had similar issues and ended up replacing some sort of sensor: accelerator position sensor, accelerator sensor, accelerator relay or something of the sort. I called Hyundai Consumer Relations to explain the issue and he told me he could find nothing showing a re-occurring issue.

    Does anyone know what the problem is or what I need to replace?
  • orv2orv2 Posts: 13
    Try- Spray MAF sensor using CRC electronic cleaner.

    Luck,
    orv2
  • I had this same problem. my car is a 2004 Hyundai XG350 L and I had around 80k miles at the time my car had these issues. My accelerator would seemingly stop working and become unresponsive, yet my car would still drive slowly. This is known as "limp" mode. When this would happen I would pull over, turn off my car for a few minutes, and restart it. It would drive regular for a while after. Over time, however, the amount of time that my car would drive normal before back going into limp mode would become progressively shorter.The engine code that I got was for a bad throttle position sensor, but in the end I needed to replace the entire throttle body. ($920 new) I hope this helps.
  • robbinhoodrobbinhood Posts: 3
    edited June 2011
    Johnny, I have the same problem with mine. A ace mechanic told me the oxygen senors are the problem. I am told by a dealer, there are four of them ? But Daryan says the one on the transmition or the one behind timing belt shroud Is the varment. He said the one behind timing belt gets rubbed by the old belt if they get a little loose (80,000 Miles) causing a intermetiate problem. This is why you can reset after you stop and shut engine down and start back up. Cost so far, As I am still checking is 120.00 new at dealer for each senor and belt is 65.00 at autozone. Do not buy the sensors from auto zone , they have had problems with their sensors. Use Oem , at a junk yard or on line, or dealer. Good luck Robbinhood
  • Unplug the air flow sensor on the side of the air cleaner intake tube. It tells you your air flow is ubstructed . Check your air cleaner or the sensor is bad. Robbin hood
  • Check air flow sensor on the side of air cleaner hose , disconnect. should help . This tells you, you have a air flow restriction. check the air cleaner.. Replace one or the other.Good luck Robbin hood. ( Had the same problem ) .
  • orv2orv2 Posts: 13
    Same problem except engine light stayed on .Car would still run in idle.Initally the motor would die when I pressed the accelerator to the floor,after several attempts it the tach was at 2700 rpms thendied at 3000rpms. the rpms increased gradually up to 6000 rpms where it would start to run rough.I quit at this point.I drove home (home being 70 klm away,most at 100 klm per hour).My scanner read a 2127 code refering to the 2122 code for componet location. First possible cause :Poor connection at A P S 8 pin connection (acelerator position sensor).I had diffuclty disconnecting the 8 pin plug due to a ground wire interfering. I loosened the bolt,pushed the wire out of way, retightened the bolt.Then sprayed the separated connector with C R C electronic cleanor.Put it back toghter, turned off the engine light.Took it for a test drive . Problem gone
    Orv2

    P S A P S location at passenger side near the fire wall.
  • The manual had a fuse for the fog lights in the engine bay near the battery, i checked that Fog fuse and it seemed good, how can i check the relay next to it? :sick: :sick: :sick: :(
  • orv2orv2 Posts: 13
    Are you aware the fog lights will not light up in the hi beam mode.If so- there are 5 other relays in that panel to switch.
    Good Luck
  • I had the same issue. I had all the struts replaced and I was still having noise. I found that it was the strut mounting bracket. I took it to a mechanic and they did a temp fix on it by welding it because it had too much play in it. But you can buy a new strut mount @ www.partsgeek.com. So, when the time comes and the temp fix is no longer working I plan to replace the bracket. I hope this helped.
  • socalxgsocalxg Posts: 3
    Hope there's some answer for this. i have an '03 XG350L...it has 127,000 miles...has always ran great. Just recently I've had a lound grinding type noise coming from..it seems...the front center of the hood area. This noise happen..from what I can tell...in gears 2-4 (it's a 5 speed). There is no griding on shifting. It happens as the car accelerates and/or decellerates? It only happens when the car is moving and can seeminly get lounder if I rev the engin while diving. Only other thing is I've notced...about 10% of the time I start driving from a stopped postion...there will be a clunk/catch getting into 1st? Any thoughts...thank you.
  • Have you ever changed the transmission fluid? This should have been done before 100K miles. If not, have a transmission drain and fill service performed for about $80 to $100 and see if it helps. Also, get underneath the car and look at the CV boots. They are the rubber boots located behind the front wheels. If there's any oil or gunk splattered around the vicinity of those rubber boots, you may need new CV joints. If that's where the noise is coming from, they'll definitely need to be replaced.
  • socalxgsocalxg Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply...yes...I had the transmission serviced about a year ago...and since hearing the noise I put in the Lucas transmission Fix...and it didn't do anything. I did have a power steering leak fixed just before the noise started...maybe that fluid got on the CV??? But, would that cause this type of noise? Thanks, again.
  • The CV Joint is sealed within the CV Boot. The boot is packed with grease, which tends to get flung onto the surrounding area when the boot cracks and fails. A boot replacement usually costs around $150. The CV Joint will fail if you go too long with a bad boot, and then you are looking at $500 or more for a new CV joint. Having other oils and fluids leak onto the boot, like power steering fluid in your case, would not cause any problems at all. Other than that, I'm not sure what else would be making a grinding noise. Sometimes a brake pad can wear low without squeaking like it's supposed to, and then you suddenly have metal-on-metal grinding even when you're not pressing the brake pedal. Could be as simple as that.

    If you have a mechanic you trust, or if somebody can recommend one for you, then let him take a look at your car for 20 or 30 minutes and he'll probably be able to find what's making the noise.
  • I have a 2002 Hyundai XG350. Today I went to get a remote start/keyless entry installed. When I left the shop I noticed the TCS light was on. I was running late for class so I had no time to stop and ask about this. Upon leaving class it was now dark out and I noticed that the dash lights were also all off. When I push the TCS button they turn on, but only while I hold the button down. I will be going back to tell them to fix it, but in the meantime can anyone tell me what they think the problem might be and/or how to fix it? And also what the TCS light means in the first place? Thankyou in advance for any help
  • eb13eb13 Posts: 1
    hi,

    i have a XG350L. my overhead and interior door lights won't come on. My sunroof control won't work either. The radio won't even turn either and the AC/Heating system turns on then shuts off 5 seconds later. There are no mechanical problems with the car, they all seem to be electrical. i assume all these issues are all related but i don't really know. how can i fix this?
  • cduplin94cduplin94 Posts: 5
    edited May 27
    I have an 04 Hyundai xg350L and my engine light keeps coming on and saying its the map sensor so i got a new map sensor and again it turned on so we put another one in thinking it was a bad sensor but then again my engine light came on.. what could be the problem on why the engine lighy is coming on saying its the map sensor when its a new sensor? And also my tail light comes on when i push on the break but none of my tail lights are out?
  • bettydcbettydc Posts: 3

    @Ultragames said: Ever since I got my 2002 Hyundai XG350L, the oil light has faded in and out. It will be totally off for days or even a week at a time, and then it will be "on". I say "on" because it never just lights up like any of the other lights. Rather it blinks ever so lightly as i'm driving. When I accelerate, it goes off completly, and when I brake or idle, it comes back brighter.

    I know that the bulb/LED for my oil light is working, because when I start the car, the light has full solid brightness.

    Does anyone have any idea why this light would be fading in and out, and sort of blinking slowly? It never reaches full brightness, and the car doesn't drive any differently when it's on.

    By the way, I did get an oil change just to see if that fixed the problem, and it did not.

    Thanks. ===== It might be a defective or incorrect oil filter or a defective sensor sending unit. If oil is flowing through the filter too quickly, the oil pressure will be too low.

2»
Sign In or Register to comment.