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Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks



  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I was the one that mentioned a noise from my clutch. My car doesn't rattle though, it just makes a barely audible whirring sound when the car is hot and in neutral. Depressing the clutch does get rid of the noise so I think I just have a low quality throw-out release bearing. It hasn't affected the performance of the car and the noise actually got less with age, to the point I usually don't even notice it anymore. As far as I know, I have been the only one to mention this noise, so I don't think it's a common problem. Either the bearing in her car was just a faulty bearing or the person that owned the car before misused the clutch. The only real things that wear those bearings out are sitting at a light with the car in gear and the clutch depressed, or riding the clutch on hills. Avoid these things, and you shouldn't ever have a problem with the bearing again.
    As for the shimmy, an alignment would be a complete waste of money if the car isn't pulling. Balancing the wheels should cure the problem, or it's possible that she has a bent rim. I would just save the money for a CD player since fixing the tape probably means replacing the whole thing. Hope that answers your questions.
  • gnm555gnm555 Posts: 5
    Yes, thanks. If I read you right, you never had the bearing replaced, it just quieted down. I'll listen to the car again and talk to my mechanic before I take it to the dealer. Thanks again.
  • jscojsco Posts: 1
    We are looking at the above two cars - any thoughts? We are looking for a commuter vehicle - good gas mileage and reliability. Any advice? Experience with either?
    Thanks -
  • perry40perry40 Posts: 94
    While the Daewoo Lanos is a fine looking car, the Accent'd probably be a safer bet ... it's been around longer and has a better reputation ... not to mention that Daewoo as a company is going thru some financial difficuly at present.
  • I just recently purchased a gs, and I am wondering if anyone else has had the door rattle and the seat belt connector squeak. If I put pressure on the door it stops is there anything that I might be able to do to stop this beside taking it to the dealer. The seat belt connector only squeaks when it is connected with the belt hook. Anyone have any ideas about this one too?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I had the same squeak in my 00 Accent driver side seat belt connector. Just spray the inside of the connector with some WD-40. That got rid of my squeak.
  • perry40perry40 Posts: 94
    Today at 5400km (3350 miles), the "Check Engine" light remained lit after the car had been started and did not go out after a few seconds as per "normal". This is the first time this has happened. The car drives fine, with no noticable change in behaviour. Is this something to be concerned about?
  • aldagaldag Posts: 81
    Check to make sure your gas cap is on tight. This seems to be a common cause of the indicator light going on....
  • gila62gila62 Posts: 2
    For the past month I have been researching subcompacts for a "freeway" second car to share with three drivers and two passengers - my three year old granddaughter and my daughter's huge chocolate labrador. We were looking for safety,
    (AS,air bags, good impact test results), fuel efficiency (over 35mpg), convenience (power rear view mirrors, doors, locks, fold-down seats and adjustable height seating)and a price at least half as much as we paid for our '98 Senna. After looking at the Civic, New Beetle, Ford Focus, Golf, Accent and Lands Hatch backs, we really fell in love with both the Accent and Lands hatch backs with power packages. We checked Edmund's Town Hall and the safety records and couldn't find one single crash test - and no real discussions of safety. Quite frankly I can't fit easily in and out of the Civic, Beetle or Golf with my oh knees
    (arthritis), and the Ford doesn't have such great mileage. It's absolutely crazy to not have safety information before buying a car- I don't understand why the manufacturers don't do the testing BEFORE they put the vehicles on the market - like they do medicines or cosmetics! Has anyone had a bad accident in an Hyundai Accent or Daewoo Lanos and walked away from it without crushed legs or a penetrated head as the tests claim will happen?
  • gila62gila62 Posts: 2
    Just an addition to the above comments- the crash tests finally have come out for both the Accent and the Daewoo. The Accent is 1 1/2 star and the Daewoo 1 star. The Accent was tested with and without the air bags, and the Daewoo without. The car integrity just did not hold up enough to keep the "dummy" occupants from serious injury. Even the Elantra, with all of the airbags, front and side, and pretentioners on the seat belts did poorly as far as the car integrity went. Highest scores were Civic, New Beetle, Focus, Golf and everything under that just "Acceptable".
  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    When you rack the driver's seat back and use the terrific height and angle adjuster, the Golf has more usable leg room in the front than anything its size. You should try again. You have also set the bar pretty high. I suggest you look at the Echo. It will meet most of your needs, but like everything else, there are tradeoffs. However, 40 mpgs or so should soothe any other irritations. Pricewise, nothing can beat some of the deals being offered on 01 Elantra GLSs.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    That link shows how to drain the pan but there will be quite a bit of fluid that will remain in the torque converter. To flush this, after you complete everything on the link disconnect the return line from the transmission cooler to the transmission. This is a rubber hose with a spring clamp. At this point it helps to have two people. I like to use a bucket & mark off quarts on it. With the end of the return line hose in the bucket start the car & fluid will start to run out of this hose. When 1 quart is in the bucket turn off the car & add 1 qt of new fluid through the dipstick. Keep doing this 1 quart at a time until the fluid coming out looks like the fresh new fluid. Reconnect the hose, check the fluid level, & you're done. Also, note that the manual specifies only Hyundai ATF. I seem to remember this stuff is $7 a quart from the dealership. Amsoil's synthetic ATF says it meets the Hyundai specs & is a much much much better fluid for I think $5/quart.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    The Elantra's glitches in the IIHS offset tests were related to a late deploying air bag and seat track problems. In addition there were leg injuries because of a sharp protruding piece of metal. The leg injuries were the only parts of the test which were sub par structurally and the Elantra scored well as far as overall integrity.

    Hopefully Hyundai will bring a voluntary recall to handle the other problems, they are easily remediable.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Curiously, what crash tests are you referring to? The NHTSA and the IIHS have never tested the Lanos. The only test of the current Accent was the side-impact test, in which it achieved 3 stars for the front passenger and 2 stars for the rear, the same exact ratings as the highly rated Saturn sedan. The 95-99 Accent achieved 3 stars for the driver and 4 stars for the front passenger in the head on test. The Euro NCAP has not tested the new Accent yet, but the 98 version got 2 stars overall in the offset and side-impact test and the Lanos got 3 stars. You should expect the 00 and newer Accent to do much better as the old Accent's design dated all the way back to 95. So, anyway, overall the Accent and Lanos both appear to have rather average ratings, not as bad as you made it sound. Just keep in mind, there is no tests out on the current Accent other than side-impact. So you can't judge the car's safety on ratings that simply aren't there.
  • perry40perry40 Posts: 94
    Just got my car back from the Service Dept.; a loose wiring connection on the auto-tranny's pulse generator was the cause of the illuminated Check Engine light. Fixed under warranty!
  • jennie5jennie5 Posts: 1
    Hi there- anyone have any problems before with a squeaky gear shift? It doesn't squeak when it is in gear, just with shifting. It isn't too loud, but it is annoying. For a while the clutch was also squeaking when being pressed, but that has seemed to stop (probably just the bearings). Any ideas would be helpful. (By the way- I have an 98 Accenet GSi, besides the squeaking car is running great at 40k)
  • sopmansopman Posts: 46
    Just did the first oil and filter change on my '01 Accent at 4,200. Not to bad, drained the oil from the pan then removed the splash guard to get at the filter easier. Glad I did, the oil gushed out and would have hit the guard and got me in the face. I let some drain out, but I guess not enough.

    Checked the air filter. Easy enough to get at, of course that looked brand new.

    All an all pretty easy. Use castrol 10w-40 oil and a puralator filter. Also used a new crash washer.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Have an '01 Elantra and haven't checked my manual since reading your post. I think that 10-40 oil will void the warranty on most new cars. I know that grade can't meet ILSAC-2 standards, and that the new ILSAC-3 standards call for 5w20 (already adopted by Honda and Ford). By memory I think my Elantra calls for 10-30 (new, no oil changes yet), but haven't seen 10-40 as a standard on new cars since the late seventies, or early eighties.
  • sopmansopman Posts: 46
    Just looked in my manual and it's calls for 10w-40 or 10w-30. Also called service department said it's all right to use 10w-40.

    Thanks for the heads up.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Also allows 10-40 in the Elantra. Haven't checked my other cars but don't think this is the case. Hyundai's normal oil is 10-30, not 5-30 as in most, or 5-20 as in Focus and Hondas. Believe this is because Hyundai's tolerances are greater than some other cars.

    In addition to the Edmunds oil and synthetic oil threads, here's a fairly interesting oil site by someone who looks like he's an oil expert:

    The host is a big believer in 10-30 synthetic, especially Mobil 1. I've usually used the Wal-Mart house brand myself, which is actually Quaker State dino oil. I try to stay away from Fram filters at all costs, although Wal-Mart usually slips on a Fram filter rather than their house brand--- which is rebranded Champion Labs and far superior, without the cardboard components that Fram is burdened with.

    My feeling is that the engine, with regular oil changes, will usually hang together in a modern car--even with dino oil-- until long after the rest of the car is ready for the scrap heap. This does not apply to my Dodge Caravan, however, whose valve guides are smoking at the 100,000 mile mark-- curse of the 3 liter Misubishi engine. Hopefully Hyundai's in-house engines don't suffer from that malady. I think all of the Mitsubishi influences are long gone.

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