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Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks

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Comments

  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    I have heard of Horra stories when some so called even good mechanic replaced a timing belt for the first time on the car , my car runs so good Im tempeting to push it and its emissions are california which in the manual says 100K replacemnt , and its made of kevlar ,stronger
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    Who has gone over 100k on the accent water pump and still going? :D ">
  • phillbillphillbill Posts: 93
    The belts wont break dead on 100k, but when the engine belt and the water pump belt go past the 4 yr (40,000 mile) mark, they're more prone to breaking with age / perrishing / wear and tear etc.

    Only cost me an extra £100-£135 to change the belts as part of my 50,000 mile service, well worth it if it saves your engine.
  • djdublmdjdublm Posts: 19
    This is for a friend of mine her check engine light is on we took her car to AutoZone and they checked the code and its a P0441 which states the PCM has determined that the purge flow in the evaporative emission control system is incorrect for the current engince operating conditions. So what do we do for this is this something i can possibly fix or is it going to need a mechanic with more diagnostic tools that what a shade tree mechanic might have? Thanks for any help
  • vlj1vlj1 Posts: 2
    My 2002 Accent GL gets horrible gas mileage. Any ideas as to what the problems could be? :cry:
  • phillbillphillbill Posts: 93
    how you drive has a large influence on your cars mileage. If im just driving round town, i sometimes get less than 270 miles out of my 44 litre tank of petrol, however when im doing long distance journeys at a steady 55-60 mph, i'll get over 500 miles out of the tank. On average i get about 350 miles out of my 1.3 Accent per tank.

    have you changed the air filter within the last 2 years (20,000 miles)? If that's clogged up with muck it'll affect your mileage.

    Your petrol injectors, they rarely, if ever need changing, but they can get clogged up. try mixing a bottle of petrol injector cleaner in with your next tank of petrol.

    Fuel filter, if that's clogged up with grime it'll affect your cars mileage. This filter should be changed every 4 years (40,000 miles). Unless your confident at car maintenance i'd leave this job for your garage, as you have to get rid of the pressure within the fuel lines before removing it, i believe... not done it myself though.

    Tracking... if you're wheels aren't aligned up correctly: toeing in / toeing out, it not only increases tyre wear and causes excessive wear on suspension components, but affects your mileage.

    Hopefully it'll be one of these, as none of them are too hard / expensive to fix.
  • vlj1vlj1 Posts: 2
    Thanks so much phillbill. I am definitely going to do the things you suggested and see if that helps.
  • krose68krose68 Posts: 1
    I have a similiar noise (generally during low acceleration) with my 2000 Accent. Did you find out what the grindng noise was with your car?

    Thanks,
    Ken
  • phillbillphillbill Posts: 93
    No, i've just put up with it. my cat passes it's MOT every year, so it can't be that serious.

    If you would like to find out what it is, maybe try jacking the car up and spinning the wheel round. I've heard of the rotor (part of the brakes) rubbing against things before. If this is the case, you could take the rotor off and put it on the grind stone so that it doesn't rub anymore.

    It could also be your C.V. joint(s), but when they go it's usually more of a clicking sound.
  • buddygleebuddyglee Posts: 44
    Hello,

    I have a 2001 accent 2 door auto w/78800 miles. Sometimes when at a stop or slowly going around a corner the transmission feels like it loses power for a second and then catches. Fluid level is full Any Ideas?

    Thanks.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    I've had a similar problem when going over speed bumps or almost stopping & then accelerating on my 2002. All three times they've replaced the pulse generator B... whatever the hell that is. It has fixed the problem but has reoccured. Take your car to Autozone & have them pull the trouble codes. You might have one for the transmission even if your check engine light is not on.
  • buddygleebuddyglee Posts: 44
    It really feels like the oil is low and when the rpm is up it pushes the fluid through and then goes like it should? The check engine light came on once before but Spark plugs and wires fixed that. The engine does not seem unresponsive just the transmission? Pulse generator I believe is just a box that supplies electricity to the spark plug kind of like the Coil use to do. I went to the auto parts store and asked what type of tranny fluid it took thinking it was low and they said that it is a dealer only item. I went to the dealer and they charged me about 7 dollars for a quart. heck of a racket. Ill keep an eye on it. Thanks for the input, It could quite possibly be that pulse generator I reckon.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    I don't have my shop manual with me but I seem to remember the pulse generator being a transmission related component. I have no idea though. Mine kinda does the same thing, then downshifts hard & goes. Amsoil synthetic ATF meets the hyundai spec & is about $2.00 cheaper per quart. Not to mention a million times better ATF.
  • buddygleebuddyglee Posts: 44
    Amsoil Synthetic? I will write that down. I bought the dealer oil then got home and checked the level and it was fine. Do'oh. Thanks for the response though glad to see I am not alone with the problem. I would still like to know what exactly the pulse Gen is if it isn't akin to the coil.
  • phillbillphillbill Posts: 93
    Pulse generator: as said above, it's a box which supplies the spark plugs with spark...it has four points (one for each spark plug) and a live rotor arm which spins round in time with the engine, making contact with the points as it goes round, allowing electricity to flow to the required spark plugs.
  • buddygleebuddyglee Posts: 44
    Thank You for the clarification.
  • mattpjmattpj Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 hyundai accent and 3 weeks ago I started hearing a clunk coming from the driver side front end while turning left or accelerating from a stop. I also noticed that the front driver's side is about 1 inch lower than the passenger side. I ordered new struts and strut mounts but i don't know if that's the problem, or if the two are even related.
  • mannybeemannybee Posts: 4
    2002 Accent manual transmission 78k no work done except oil changes tire rotation every 5k. last 2 summers on hot days 90F + the a/c clutch engages and instead of the minor bump in engine speed the engine races uncontrollably until i either turn off the engine or switch off the a/c.
  • phillbillphillbill Posts: 93
    the clicking when turning on full left could be the CV joint...could check this yourself, you should see a rubber seal around a joint connecting a shaft to the wheel, feel all around it checking to see if grease is leaking out...this would also explain the clicking at high acelleration

    not long ago i thought my shock absorbers had gone as two of my wheels were up under the arches and the other two showed lots of clearance, turned out i was on uneven ground, try parking on some flat tar mac maybe?

    if this doesn't help, i'd say the sagging is due to worn suspension parts, mainly the shock absorbers lean on the front driver wing of your car, and apply the same pressure to the passenger side, does the car go down more on the one side? if so then it'll probably be your shock's.
  • phillbillphillbill Posts: 93
    Ive heard of a few people having this problem, each time it's been due to somthing different, here are the three causes I know of:

    The air con compressor was in need of replacement
    One of the sensors in the air con system was faulty
    The system was wired up incorrectly

    Hope that's of some help.
  • jsassmanjsassman Posts: 2
    Check engine code shows Oxygen Sensor. Dealer cost is around $125. Can a generic, aftermarket sensor be used? How many wires? http://www.carpartswholesale.com/ has them listed for $20 to $ 34 depending on how many wires, from 1 to 4. Any help appreciated Thanks in advance!! --Jim
  • boyceboyce Bossier City, La.Posts: 48
    My daughter has a 2001 Accent. She bought it used in 2002 from original owner with approx. 8000 miles. Has been a pretty good little car until now. She got a check engine light a few days ago. Took it to local Hyundai dealer and they say it is the catalytic converter. They quoted a $1400 repair price. Car now has 88000 miles on it. Does it really cost that much to replace a cat. converter or is she gettin ripped off? Thanks for any replies.

    2012 Mazda 3 Skyactive 6spd. auto 2008 Mazda Tribute S 4spd auto.

  • phillbillphillbill Posts: 93
    a new cat converter costs about 130, depending where u purchase it from etc...prices will vary loads. you'll be paying for the cost of the labour mianly. i wouldn't have thought the time it takes to weld a converter on is worth $1400, could probably get a whole new exhaust system cheaper than that. try two or three garages and ask for a price up, if the prices are similar, then i guess that's the cost of the job.
  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Posts: 352
    That seems expensive. The local dealership for my Honda only wanted about $800 for that and the heat shield replacement.

    Check some other places, but also check to see if it might still be under warranty. I know it sounds odd, but exhaust systems are starting to get special warranties, outside of everything, that are only dependent on the car, and not the owner.

    Or it may just be a California thing.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    Agreed, but don't go to a mechanic for a catalytic converter, go to a muffler shop, aftermarket converters (and O2 sensors) have become a cheap commodity. I'd personally wouldn't go to Midas, though, the bill could be more than $1500.

    It could be the Hyundai dealer was including a major tuneup along with the converter, but still that should be $800 max.
  • boyceboyce Bossier City, La.Posts: 48
    Thanks for the responses and the good info. I thought that was a pretty steep price to replace converter. Unfortunately my daughter was impatient and gave permission for the repair. I had asked her to wait for your replies. The dealer that charges $1400 to replace a cat. converter on an Accent is Rountree Hyundai, Shreveport, La. Thanks again.

    2012 Mazda 3 Skyactive 6spd. auto 2008 Mazda Tribute S 4spd auto.

  • navygz19navygz19 Posts: 6
    Hello,
    I am going to change the oil today (before the heat sets in!) and I also want to change the spark plugs. I have an 04 GT with about 62K miles on it, original plugs!! I thought they were a 60K interval, but I've come to find they're a 30K item :-( Anyhow, I'm pretty certain I know where they are on the engine (just to the right of the valve cover? They appear to be alligned length-wise with the car) Is this correct? Also,I'm pretty sure Hyundai didn't take the liberty to put anything too special in a car the retailed for $10,000, so I'm going to upgrade to some Bosch Platinums, +2's maybe. Anything I should know? And yes, I know I'm going to need a gapping tool. Any help is appreciated!
  • navygz19navygz19 Posts: 6
    Ok nevermind! I found the plugs just fine (right in front of my face) However, these are traditional plugs w/ a plug wire set up which leads me to believe there's a distributor somewhere. If so, where is it? And is a new cap and rotor in order?
  • This reply might be late for the original poster but perhaps it will help someone else in the future.

    Some of the biggest gas mileage killers are low radiator fluid or a failed thermostat. Check coolant reservoir to be sure the fluid is at the correct level. Low coolant can result in wrong temperature sensor readings which causes too much gas to be sent to the engine. A failed open thermostat will have the same effect.

    Other possible fuel economy vampires low tire pressure, worn bearings, and worn out sensors.
  • Purchased a Borg Warner 4 wire from Ebay for $ 22.95 shipped! Had to remove old OS Sensor and wire new one on the four wires: two white, one gray, one black. Does not matter which way the white wires go. But, of course, black and gray must to to their mates of the same color. Drove care for a couple of miles and it runs perfect. This is the upstream OS Sensor. Will do the downstream one next. They are identical Sensors: both four wire.
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