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Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks



  • there could be lots of things that need servicing / replacing on your second hand motor. Depends what's been, and what's not been done in the last four years of services.

    if you have all the paper work for the car, what's been done at each annual service, that would help you out no end.

    Check your fan belt, if it's looking worn and perished it could well need replacing, the chances are the timing belt will need doing too if so, as the belts tend to wear out together. It's a good idea to change them every four years.

    Somtimes people forget about the engine coolant, should be changed every two years for best cooling efficency. if it looks a horrible shade of black rather than sky blue, then you could drain, flush and refill the cooling system with fresh coolent and water.
    just drain a drop off from the radiator plug into a plastic cup if u want a look.

    another thing that somtimes gets forgotten is the gear oil, should be done every two years if possible, can only help you out with the gear oil if it's a manual though, never changed auto transaxle fluid before...

    Engine oil....if that's not been changed for 10,000 miles or a year then it'll need doin, along with the filter.

    All this stuff should be in your owners manual, when to change what etc.

    anyhow, hope that's some help...
  • bigdoggbigdogg Posts: 9
    I am a mechanic in the states. I will tell you what your problem is. The mechanics that you are taking it too can't be very sharp, as this is a basic problem that you are having. It is what is called an Idle Air Control Valve. It has a few other names like throttle bypass valve..etc. But what happens is that when you come to a stop light, this valve is supposed to regulate your idle. When you run down the road with the throttle open, it is 100% open--so when you let your foot off the gas the engine won't die. It then regulates the idle of the motor with the valve open at 45% say at a stoplight. What happens when these things go bad, is that the pintle that controls air flow through the valve gets gummed up and sticks. So when you go to stop at a stoplight, it hangs wide open like it should going down the road-----not at a stoplight. The motor then gets to much air and stalls out. The valve then goes back to it starting position when motor is started. I would not take your car back to the mechanic that told you it was the fuel pump. If they were doing any diagnostics at all, they would have simply looked at the fuel pressure at various times and over multiple starts to see if that was the culprit. Obviously not, since it didn't fix the problem. The Idle Air Control Valve is usually located on the intake manifold behind the throttle body. Because this valve simply controls the amount of air that goes around the throttle plate which regulates your idle. This is an easy fix, with most IACV's(for short), costing somewhere between 30-65$ US, and a half hour labor to put on. Sorry this post is so long, just wanted to explain it to you fully. I hope that this helps and I am 99% sure this is the problem. We have lots of problems with them in cars over here. Because our smog systems throw carbon through them and that is what gunks them up, or the IAC motor goes bad. You get a new motor on the new valve you would purchase. Please post again and tell me if this was it. I am sure it is. Oh, if the motor ever doesn't start, like it keeps on cranking over with no running. Depress the gas pedal 1/2 way down and hold it there and crank the motor over, it will start. But you really need to get a new valve. Hope this helps Kelli.

  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Thanks - and welcome! It's great to have mechanics on board to help out.
  • My son; wife destroyed their engine. He is replacing it now but has no idea where all of the electric connectors go to on the engine compartment. Is the somewhere here on line where i might get a picture or an idea where all the connectors might go to.

    Any and all help is appreciated.
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    Hyundai on-line shop manual:
  • vthuppilvthuppil Posts: 16
    I need to get my timing belt replaced. I am running on about 64,300 miles on my 2000 Accent, and I should financially be able to replace it in about three weeks time, so about 700-1000 miles more, I'm hoping it can last.

    But I've been hearing a squeaking in mornings for a while now, maybe 2,000-3,000 miles, it's been happening. Usually it happens only early in the mornings, but this morning the squeaking lasted all the way to work, a 25 mile drive. The squeaking was a lot less by the time I got to work than it was when I first started it, but regardless it lasted all the way. Can anyone tell me if this is an indication of my timing belt wearing out more or what? Or is this unrelated to the timing belt?
  • markp63markp63 Posts: 1
    hi kelli, we also have that exact same problem with our 97 excel and it has been unsolvable for about 3 years , it won't start after it is warm and then it will be fine for the next few drives, we have to make sure we park on a slope whenever we go anywhere as it will roll start without any problem . have you managed to solve it yet ? im going to try the things that have been suggested to you by those helpful people, please let me know if any of the suggestions have fixed the problem , we also live in australia , between orange and bathurst nsw , i typed in hyundai excel elecrical problems to google and there were quite a few reports of hyundai excel connection problems causing intermitent starting problems so maybe with everyones help we may solve the mystery of the 2 australian hyundais that won't start . regards to all markp63
  • Yes, the squeeling sound is likley to be the belts in need of replacement, sooner it's done the better. They're squeeling beause they've stretched with age, so are slipping on the pullys. Dont leave it too long, if the timing belt breaks, it'll lead to a huge engine repair bill.
  • Is enough 1 galon, I have a 1994 Accent GLS whit 1.5L engine. I use less than a Galon, put 3/4 of the 1 gl bottle, an then see the dipstick to complete the level.

  • HE HEI Becarfull, the oil level must be ckecked with the oil cold, dont warm, just because the oil expands and give you a bad read, the level range on the dipstick is for cold oil!!!!. In other cases you will find a dipstick with 2 ranges in one side cold in the other side hot (this is usually in heavy machinary, like Caterpillar or Freightliner)

  • An aclaration, the timing belt and the belts are two diferent things , the belts maybe are 2 or 3, one moves de A/C pump, one moves the water pump and the alternator and the last moves de hydraulic pump for the hydraulic direction.
    the timing belt or timing chain (metal or rubber) depends on the model of vehicule and it is inside the cover of the front of the engine, however the engine is in transversal position the front of the engine is faced to the right front wheel.

  • Guys/gals,
    I have a 2001 Accent GL that came with a spoiler (among other body options) directly from a dealer in Maryland.

    Recently I noticed that the center brake lamp was burned out. It is mounted between the spoiler and the trunk lid.

    I can't for the life of me figure out how to change the bulb. The bezel has no screws. I thought that if I removed the spoiler, I might get access to the bulb. The spoiler is mounted on the trunk lid via three studs that are accessed from the underside of the trunk lid. I removed the nuts but the spoiler would still not come loose. I believe that the spoiler might be glued?? and I'm afraid to pull up too hard since it could break off!

    Can anybody help?

  • With small oil systems like on our Accents then you probably can get away with doing the oil level on cold. However with larger systems, eg on performance sports cars which have a large amount of engine oil then you should do a reading from a warm engine, you said it yourself, it does expand with heat. If you fill it up to the top on cold, it will go above the level once the engine is warm and could cause engine damage.

    Give the oil 10 min or so to drain back into the oil sump after the engine's turned off before a reading is taken though.

    I know someone who did this on a new-ish Porsche once, no damage was caused luckily, but clouds of blue smoke were emmited from the exhaust as the engine burnt off the excess oil.
  • Hi, ive never had a close look at the spoiler on an accent, how it's put together etc. But have you tried removing the red plastic covering the light? That may clip on and off with the help from a flathead screwdriver maybe?
  • Hey,
    Thanks for the reply...

    It is really strange. There are no screws anywhere around the spoiler or bezel itself. The spoiler appears to be mounted directly to the trunk lid via three studs coming out of the bottom of the spoiler. Nuts are then placed on the studs from underneath the trunk lid, to apparently hold the spoiler on. It appears that if I could get the spoiler off, it would be academic. But I've removed all three nuts and the spoiler is still held on the trunk, securely. I've tried using a flat-bladed screw driver underneath the spoiler (in the hopes of prying it off), but no deal. Obviously, I don't want to scratch the paint.

    I've also tried prying the bezel itself off, thinking it would "just pop off". But before I busted or cracked the bezel, I figured I'd see if anyone else had this experience. I called several Hyundai dealers and one told me that 2001 Accents don't come with spoilers so it must be an after-market piece, so he can't help. Not sure if I believe this. Another said he just wasn't familiar enough with it to help. So here I am...
  • Help! I am a college student who needs a car... I used to own the 2001 Toyota Echo, and though I hated it at first, ended up really liking the car. It was totalled a few months ago, and now I need a car. Money is an issue, if it wasnt I would be in a Scion tc. How is this car ranked? My family nor I have ever purchased an American car... so I am skeptical. Any advice?
  • All cars are getting much more reliable now. I own a Hyundai Accent (1999), doing 500 miles a week in it and it's causing me no problems really, so id rank it 10/10 for a cheap and reliable pop along car. However, i would like my next car to cave air con and power steering so look out for those when your car hunting. Also, i'd go for a manual gear box, i've heard people complain about the automatic Accents.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    My mother-in-law has a 2002 Accent. So far, it's been bullet-proof, even though it suffers at her hands. As long as I keep nudging her on maintenance and so forth, I think she'll get great service out of it.
  • Just re-read gavilanex's message, didnt see that the two different dip sticks were mentioned the first time round, one for warm and one for cold engines.

    Basicly all im tryin to say is to be carfull not to put too much oil in your engine, otherwise damage may be caused. In my owners manual it does say to let the engine warm up to normal operating temperature before taking a reading.
  • Timing belts do not squeal. They are much like a chain as opposed to the V-belts that drive your power steering, A/C and alternator. V-belts will squeal if they are worn or not properly tensioned.
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