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New Member Thread Mazda CX-9

MazdaTechieMazdaTechie Posts: 14
edited July 8 in Mazda
Hi all,

I was invited by a fellow poster on Mazdaforum.com that goes by "howardru" back in early January. I'm a Mazda certified technician and I'm ASE certified. I'm not a master yet, but I know some stuff and have access to a lot of resources. Let me know if I can help and I'll pitch in where I can. =>
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Comments

  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,209
    Welcome!

    The Mazda CX-9 Maintenance and Repair discussion would probably be a good one to add to your "watch" list.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • howardruhowardru Posts: 155
    Hey Mazda Techie....that be me. Thanks so much.

    Your knowledge and professional advice is sorely needed. Glad you could join.

    Cheers
    Howard
  • Hi, I've been trying to get the overall dimensions of the dockable DVD entertainment system for the CX-9. I just like to know how much space it take up on the headliner. My dealer does not have one in stock and says he can not find that info. I was able to get the install instructions but that does not have the dimensions referenced in it. Hope you can help
    Thank you
  • I don't know the exact dimensions. If it's the same one I've dealt with installing before (this was early last year, so it's been awhile), there's actually a pre-made jig that's used to cut out the space in the headliner. From memory though if I had to guess, it's positioned over the floorboards for the 2nd row seats, and the base that stays in the headliner might be about ~12 inches by ~10 inches. With the player in the base and the screen open and hanging down, the bottom of the screen is down maybe around 8 to 10 inches total from the headliner. When the screen is folded shut, probably only about 1 to 1.5 inches. Again, those are estimates from memory, but I hope that helps.
  • That does help. Thanks for responding.
  • eroc2eroc2 Posts: 4
    Every time I ride on a rough road - there is a crackling noise coming from the drivers side passanger in the vicinity of the post where the air bag is located. Any Ideas. I've checked seat belt and it appears not to be the problem
  • "drivers side passenger"--which seat are you referring to exactly? Do you mean the rear passenger seat on the drivers side? 2nd or 3rd row? Do you mean the post that's on the left side of your head? Can you be more specific? So far it doesn't sound like a noise I've dealt with before.
  • I have just recently purchased a 2008 Mazda CX9. Is there any way to have SIRIUS AND Aux output for the I POD?
  • To be truthful yet still friendly to all of you on the subject of noises:

    With any noise concerns, unless the description matches something I've dealt with before, I'm unable to pinpoint it over the internet, or offer much of anything that it might be. Even though I may know how everything is basically put together in an area described in/on the vehicle, it could still be literally anything in that region causing it. The truth is that for any noise for which prior research does not yet exist, I have to be able to personally drive or ride in the vehicle, hear the noise, and follow necessary troubleshooting procedures to be able to track it down.

    I've seen small trim pieces, frames of center consoles, cowl grilles, wheel well liners, wheels, brake pads, backing shields, loose spark plug wires, variable valve timing actuators, glove boxes, door lock actuators, weather seals, brake booster hose brackets, bumpers, loose power steering pumps, fuel pumps, shock mounts, hubcaps, convertible latch top covers, failed sway bar bushings, customer accessories (radar detectors suctioned to windshields), wheel bearings, window sill insulation, radio brackets, electric steering lock connectors, and other things all causing various kinds of noises from squeaks to wind noise to rattles to squeaks to clunks to rubbing noises to you name it on various different Mazdas. That doesn't mean all those things always make noise. You see 100 cars, and one of them comes in with a noise on X part that all the others like it are quiet on.

    My point is that unless I've dealt with it before (and sometimes even then), it's pretty critical for me to hear the noise myself and trace it down at least somewhat if I'm to offer any advice on it's source.

    I'm not asking anyone to refrain from asking about noises they encounter--you don't know what I've dealt with before, and I may have encountered your noise in the past. I just want you to be aware of the circumstances that surround the question. I hope I've created no ill will. =>
  • Well from what I can find, it kind of depends on what you're wanting to do. If you mean using the factory auxiliary port for your iPod, they used to offer a "switching box" so you could keep that and have Sirius satellite. I believe now they've built them from the factory so you don't have to get that additionally.

    If you're wanting to get Sirius and get the iPod integration module (allows iPod control from the radio), I believe there's a harness kit you can order that will allow you to effectively "daisy chain" the two so you can switch between either.

    If you want the iPod integration module, last I've known you can only get it if you don't have the factory optional navigation system. That may have changed. Ask your service department (Do NOT ask sales--they'll try to sell it to you before they do any research on the matter) to be sure.

    If you don't want the integration module, and just want to use your auxiliary port, just pay attention to the first paragraph in this post hehe. =>
  • eroc2eroc2 Posts: 4
    Rear passenger seat -drivers side- post behind second row -were the seat belt is attached and air bag is located

    Thanks
  • I haven't encountered noises in that area before, so I wouldn't know what to tell you for a cause. If your vehicle is still under warranty, you might see if your dealer can take a crack at it. Or if you're anywhere near my dealer, set an appointment and I'll be happy to track it down hehe. => My dealer's in Denton, TX.

    I'm sorry I can't be of more help to you on this one. :/
  • melanjianmelanjian Posts: 31
    just came back from the mazda dealer today... the f&I guy says that on average
    on the cx 9 the struts wear out at about 60,000 miles so i better buy the extended warrenty plan for 2,200 dollars 7/100,000 or all preventive maintaince plan for
    2,100 6/100,000 or both for 3,300 dollars!!!! Any and all advice accepted!!!!
  • howardruhowardru Posts: 155
    There are several discussion threads on extended warranties and I've put up a few so go search for them. I think my AAA plan was $1600 for 7/100,000 or something close to that.

    Struts are normal wear and tear (like tires, oil, filters etc) and are not covered by extended warranty plans. I've never hard of a preventitive maintance plan.
  • melanjianmelanjian Posts: 31
    thank you what is the web site for AAA plan????
  • cericceric Posts: 1,093
    I would sriously doubt that f&l guy.
    How many CX9s out there do you think have 60K miles on them?
    Hint: CX9 came out at the end of 2006 as 2007 model.
    On average, Americans drive 12-15K per year. Most 2007 CX9 would have about 25-35K on them.

    Besides, you have 3 years to consider buying ext. warranty. (before your OM warranty expries)
    As said, struts are not covered (most suspension elements aren't).
    f7l guys love to scare you into buying warranty. That is nothing new.
  • melanjianmelanjian Posts: 31
    thank you ceric... by the way if i wait till the end of the 3/36 warrenty to buy say
    a 7 /100,000 mile extended warrenty ,does that mean i will have a total of 10 years coverage..?? or still a total of 7 years from original date of purchase?? in effect an additional 4 years???
  • vikefan7vikefan7 Posts: 8
    It means you're covered for 7 years or 100,000 miles total.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,093
    vikefan7 is correct.
    A 7yr/100K warranty is misleading. It includes the 3yr/36K from factory. Therefore, you are buying the 4yr/64K extra.

    Ext warranty may not be a good investment if you MIGHT sell your CX9 before the said period (say, 7yr). Yes, they are usually transferable, but some ext warranty will ask you to sing and dance and pay $100 or more for check-up before they will let you transfer (the so-call fine-prints). I once had ext warranty on my BMW (so problematic).

    To me, buying ext warranty or not is a matter of financial planning. Transfer case, transmission and MFD (multi-function display) are probably some of the most expensive items in CX9 (other than the engine). Each costs $3000 or more. When that happens, can your financial situation handles that? If yes, then, you don't need the ext warranty. If no, you could consider it. Other may argue that why not opening a CD account and put the $1700 in there to help you fix CX9 in subsequent years. Chances are that would be enough (if no major items as I listed fails).
  • howardruhowardru Posts: 155
    Contact your local AAA office. Their plans are regional.

    You have to be a member too.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018
    A reporter is looking to speak to consumers who purchased a Mazda CX-9 and decided to drive versus fly when vacationing. Please send your daytime phone number and the vehicle you own to ctalati@edmunds.com by Friday, April 10, 2009.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • Several times after shutting car off, 07 Sport, the HVAC fan blows full speed. I have to turn car on & off again to get it to shut off. Have you seen this problem or have any suggestions. Thanks.
  • If you're referring to the blower motor (fan for air coming out of the dash vents--front blower, or fan for air coming out of the vents on back of center console--rear blower), TSB 07-008/09 addresses that issue. If you haven't driven 36,000 miles yet, take your vehicle into your nearest dealer and mention the TSB number listed above.

    However if you're referring to a radiator/condenser fan under the hood, that may run to cool the motor when you turn the car off.
  • Just got cx9 today...
    the windshield haze does not seem to go.
    Used to my toyota...just putting full a/c on windshield removes the haze.
    But not working in cx9...any suggestions ?

    Thanks!
  • Inside or outside? The entire windshield? a/c on defrost should defog if it's just moisture. If you bought it from a dealer I would expect them to fully detail the vehicle, including cleaning inside and outside of all glass, but you might try cleaning both sides with a good glass cleaner. If there is a strip of tint that was added to the top of the windshield, be sure the glass cleaner is ammonia free. If not, don't worry about it.

    If it's not the whole windshield, and you're experiencing spots of fog at the very base of the windshield while driving in the evening that can be removed w/the wipers, there's not too much you can do about that.

    Can you be more specific about this haze on your windshield?
  • Thanks for the reply mazdatechie.

    It's spots of fog at the very base ..which was not going away .
    Yes...I did use wipers..but I thought blowing full a/c on windshield should make it go away? (it happens in my toyota).
    But did not.
    May be i've to get used to some of the things in new car :)
  • Alright. I've got the exact explanation for you.

    That can happen in any vehicle with a working a/c, as long as you have the temperature blend set to cold. Here's what's going on:

    You know why condensation builds up on the outside of a cold Dr Pepper/Coke/soda of your choice when it's in a warm environment? If so, you might know where I'm going with this. If not, here's why. Moisture is present in the air around us--water vapor, humidity, whatever you wish to call it. It stays as vapor in the air because the air is hot enough to keep it that way. Enter the cold soda. The temperature of the outside of the can is much much colder than the air around. As the air passes around the can, the water vapor in the air comes into contact with the can--the temperature of that water vapor is HEAVILY reduced, forcing it to turn back into a liquid--and just as with anything else, that small amount of water clings to the can.

    Keep that principle in mind, and apply it to the very base of your windshield. Even when your a/c is set to blow out of the front vents at you, nothing is perfect, and most cars still let out a tiiiiny flow of air from the defrost vent at the back of the dash. As such, your a/c is essentially refrigerating the very base of your windshield. Eventually, that part of the glass can get very cold, just like the icy cold Dr Pepper can. Now while inside the car, the a/c is removing moisture from the air, it's obviously not doing that to the air outside the car. So as you're going down the road, water vapor in the outside air hits the base of your windshield. When the base of your windshield gets really cold, the water vapor hitting it converts back to a liquid, leaving condensation on the outside of the glass in the coldest areas.

    Long explanation, but basically, the only way to get rid of it is to use your wipers or turn on the heat. It's just one of those things that some find annoying and others don't, but you can't really do anything about because it's just physics at work. I can assure you though, it's nothing wrong with the vehicle.

    Hope that helps!
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    good writeup...every vehicle i've ever owned does this...living down here in TX it happens quite a bit in the spring/fall when the humidity is higher...in the summer, the 100 plus degrees usually keeps em fog free (but the a/c does have a hernia trying to keep up) :D
  • Right there with ya! I'm near DFW in Denton.
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    small world eh...I actually live over near Richardson (I got it at Town North just off 75) but they brought it over from the Hurst dealer as they had the model/build we wanted (forget the name...Wiley maybe?).
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