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Buick LeSabre Engine help

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  • 17thabn17thabn Posts: 10
    The issue of the class action suit,if there wasn't one there should have been one
    because of the millions of cars from GM fron 95-98 didn't have the "Redesigned"
    plenum and smaller tube.That took anywhere from 4 to 6 years to show up.What about all the cost to the owners of those cars??If the plenum on your car is the ORGINAL, it has the month,date,and year on it when it was made.The new plenums do no have the date of manufacture on them. So if it was made 95-98 you got a burner.The only thing I was trying to do was to inform the little guy about repairing his car without getting shafted by cost of this repair.So you acknowledge it was a design flaw.Great.Have you changed yours yet??Or do you work for GM??
  • djc7djc7 Posts: 2
    The car has been dying; it spent 4 days at one garag & he could not find anything he suggested another garage with more computer technology. Spent 5 days there they replaced the Mass air flow sensor picked up car drove it about 20 miles and the car started dying again. It will start back up may run a little while or may die immediately. It kind of back fires when it starts back up. Of course this happened after the garage had closed and it is closed on Saturdays. A new fuel pump has been put on the car; new plugs etc. Can someone give me an idea what this could be. It cost $311. today and the car and I will be there first thing Monday morning.
    thanks,
    DC
  • 17thabn17thabn Posts: 10
    I would replace the fuel filter and then the fuel pressure regulator.Probably $150.
  • bob252bob252 Posts: 45
    Hi, I am concerned that there is something wrong at this site, I have had many replies to someone else's question, and that is not helping them! somehow due to my posting a "helpful" reply about $1600 Brake job...well from there I get replies about fuel, engine, etc. and they are accurate...but I did not reqest anything...Hope people are reading this.there is some kind of misdirection at this site. But thank the helpful people here..they are great..Bob.
  • djc7djc7 Posts: 2
    Thanks, but the fuel regulartor and fuel filter has replaced twice; the regulator was under warranty so made them replace it since it was acting like it was not getting gas and then replaced the filter again but it was not stopped up that time either.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,682
    I don't know much about the earlier engines before 1992. I do recall MAF sensor problems caused many difficulties or something like that. I believe a test was tapping ont he MAF sensor with a screwdriver handle and if it made the engine skip or be uneven, the MAF was a problem.

    Yours could be connections to the spark system and coils Could be fuel pressure.

    You need to have a test spark plug and when it kicks out put a spark plug on one wire and lay it on the metal part of the motor. Have someone crank the motor and see if it has spark at the beginning before it fires.

    If you can put a fuel pressure gauge on the car and drive it and watch to see if the fuel pressure drops when it stalls would be a big help. Duct tape the gauge to the windshield. The replacement fuel pump may be giving problems. The Delco replacements are best. My garage would only use a Delco because they had many return problems with other brands.

    Crankshaft position sensors are a popular replacement item--not that we like doing things just because they're popular, but it's something to watch. The fact the car starts right back up after stalling makes it a problem to troubleshoot. The backfire doesn't help me much.

    This message has been approved.

  • Karen@EdmundsKaren@Edmunds Posts: 5,028
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  • I have a 93 LeSabre, 3.8, 145K miles. Yesterday I just took a look to the oil level, and found fresh, more or less concentric oil leak signs under the cylinder head, forward cylinder line...I guess it is bad...The car is in good shape, runs well no sign of any problem and like it.
    Just I would ask for your opinion.
    What should I expect?
    Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,682
    I don't quit follow what you mean by under the cylinder head. I do know that valve covers do start leaking more with age. Do some cleaning and then rechecking with good lighting to see where the oil is coming from.

    The valve covers are problematic as far as resealing. You might tighten lightly, but it's not going to cure it most likely. Removing, cleaning, new gaskets, probably are required.

    You didn't happen to run synthetic oil in it? That often supposedly opens seeps and causes leaking.

    This message has been approved.

  • imidazol97, I rechecked as you mentioned. It is not under the cylinder head, but from the inlet manifold itself. Hm. Plus, the two trans hoses going from the trans to the cooler, they seep/leak...
    I run it with mineral oil, no synthetic.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,682
    If it's under the bottom ends of the lower, metal, intake manifold, I believe those have some seeps around the seals that go across the ends if not installed right or after lots of age. If it's not bad, I'd sure just live with it.

    Where are the trans lines leaking? Through the rubber? AT the ends with the metal parts? Where they screw onto the radiator? Is it transmission fluid on them for sure and not oil from the upper part of the motor?

    This message has been approved.

  • I opened the clamps from the lines, cleaned the hoses, repositioned, clamps and after some days of driving, looks good... :-) Thank you.
  • gds52383gds52383 Posts: 2
    Hi I have a 98 Lesabre with 120k on it. Recently the check engine light came on and started flashing. I took it to advance auto where it was tested and it came back misfire on cylinder 4. I decided to get a new set of spark plugs and change them. I found out it had the original plugs in it. It runs alot better and the check engine light has went off, however, it still hesitates on acceleration and sometimes jerks around 55 mph. I don't think that the problem has been completley solved although it runs alot better. The wires look fine. Could it be the high voltage distributor caps? Any ideas on what I should check? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    ~Greg
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,682
    I responded in the other discussion to this question.

    This message has been approved.

  • dewc3dewc3 Posts: 28
    I was wondering how difficult it is to replace the oil pan gasket on a 1997 buick lasabre limited? I have looked at the oil pan and it seems that all I have to do is take off the bolts without having to jack the motor up . Just want to make sure it comes off that easy since nothing on this year is easy to replace...lol :shades:
  • bob252bob252 Posts: 45
    OK..This is hopefuly helping you, I have done this and you are correct (simple) #1 remove the plastic shield at the starter (don't remove any more bolts there) (don't forget to drain the oil first HA HA) then remove the bolts on the pan and carefully spin the pan around to #2 remove the bolts from the oil pickup from the oil pump, (2 of them) pull it out and the pan will fall down...I have no idea of why you should have to remove the pan as my 95 had a really thick 1/3 in. plastic gasket on it and I reused it. (225000 mi. preventative maintanance rod bearings) I had an oil leak prior to this but it was from the oil pressure sending unit, another easy job. Sold the car w/ 250000 miles on it with the factory exhaust transmission axles etc. still working fine...How much can they go before something does break? I sold it for $200 to a happy home without any feeling of guilt.
  • I have a 92 LeSabre 3.8 that has the rear freeze plug missing. I guess someone else replaced it and didn't get it in right. How can I put a new one in without pulling the engine or tranny? If I use a rubber one, how long will it last?
    donicar
  • Over a year ago I was given a 95 Le Sabre for free. Not in bad shape and has a solid repair history and 147,000mi. The AC has never worked. Now it clear the AC compressor is dying...noise and metal shavings below on the frame..clutch issue I am guessing. I really do not want to buy a new compressor and would rather just bypass the AC. In searching the internet there have been several posts saying that its possible with a 70.5" belt v. the standard 102" belt. Another more sensible option is an bypass pulley and remove the AC compressor

    I would really value some expert perspective and any experiences other owners might share.

    My sincere thanks in advance!

    Bob
  • OK These posts are difficult to respond to...due mostly IE 6..(my second attempt).In regard to dismantling the belt forget it...know that the clutch is the problem. There is at the rear part of the belt at the top of the compressor, a plug there, undo it. Then start the engine to see if the clutch is still engaged, if not you are all done. If it still is trying to engage then let it finish tearing itself up untill it cannot engage. I had the same problem with my 95 at 201000, I replaced the complete compressor as it was a lot more cost effective. Do not attempt removing the compressor and attempt a belt resizing it will firstly set a computer code (the light on the dash-"check engine") and try to figure the belt routing???? Really the only real worry you have is the bearing inside of that clutch assembly..if it seizes then you have a problem..Hope this helps.
  • bob252,

    Thanks for your thoughts and IE6 struggles! So got the idea that rerouting the belt makes the engine timing unhappy. So first see if I can unplug the AC Compressor to disengage the clutch with the AC compressor becoming a stand-in pulley. I am concerned about the possibility of seizing. Something in the clutch assembly is creating metal shavings and dropping on the frame below.

    Have you ever installed a bypass AC pulley like this as option B?...

    AC Bypass Pulley

    Thanks so much!
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