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Buick LeSabre Engine help

245

Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    If it's under the bottom ends of the lower, metal, intake manifold, I believe those have some seeps around the seals that go across the ends if not installed right or after lots of age. If it's not bad, I'd sure just live with it.

    Where are the trans lines leaking? Through the rubber? AT the ends with the metal parts? Where they screw onto the radiator? Is it transmission fluid on them for sure and not oil from the upper part of the motor?
  • I opened the clamps from the lines, cleaned the hoses, repositioned, clamps and after some days of driving, looks good... :-) Thank you.
  • gds52383gds52383 Posts: 2
    Hi I have a 98 Lesabre with 120k on it. Recently the check engine light came on and started flashing. I took it to advance auto where it was tested and it came back misfire on cylinder 4. I decided to get a new set of spark plugs and change them. I found out it had the original plugs in it. It runs alot better and the check engine light has went off, however, it still hesitates on acceleration and sometimes jerks around 55 mph. I don't think that the problem has been completley solved although it runs alot better. The wires look fine. Could it be the high voltage distributor caps? Any ideas on what I should check? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    ~Greg
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    I responded in the other discussion to this question.
  • dewc3dewc3 Posts: 30
    I was wondering how difficult it is to replace the oil pan gasket on a 1997 buick lasabre limited? I have looked at the oil pan and it seems that all I have to do is take off the bolts without having to jack the motor up . Just want to make sure it comes off that easy since nothing on this year is easy to replace...lol :shades:
  • bob252bob252 Posts: 45
    OK..This is hopefuly helping you, I have done this and you are correct (simple) #1 remove the plastic shield at the starter (don't remove any more bolts there) (don't forget to drain the oil first HA HA) then remove the bolts on the pan and carefully spin the pan around to #2 remove the bolts from the oil pickup from the oil pump, (2 of them) pull it out and the pan will fall down...I have no idea of why you should have to remove the pan as my 95 had a really thick 1/3 in. plastic gasket on it and I reused it. (225000 mi. preventative maintanance rod bearings) I had an oil leak prior to this but it was from the oil pressure sending unit, another easy job. Sold the car w/ 250000 miles on it with the factory exhaust transmission axles etc. still working fine...How much can they go before something does break? I sold it for $200 to a happy home without any feeling of guilt.
  • I have a 92 LeSabre 3.8 that has the rear freeze plug missing. I guess someone else replaced it and didn't get it in right. How can I put a new one in without pulling the engine or tranny? If I use a rubber one, how long will it last?
    donicar
  • Over a year ago I was given a 95 Le Sabre for free. Not in bad shape and has a solid repair history and 147,000mi. The AC has never worked. Now it clear the AC compressor is dying...noise and metal shavings below on the frame..clutch issue I am guessing. I really do not want to buy a new compressor and would rather just bypass the AC. In searching the internet there have been several posts saying that its possible with a 70.5" belt v. the standard 102" belt. Another more sensible option is an bypass pulley and remove the AC compressor

    I would really value some expert perspective and any experiences other owners might share.

    My sincere thanks in advance!

    Bob
  • OK These posts are difficult to respond to...due mostly IE 6..(my second attempt).In regard to dismantling the belt forget it...know that the clutch is the problem. There is at the rear part of the belt at the top of the compressor, a plug there, undo it. Then start the engine to see if the clutch is still engaged, if not you are all done. If it still is trying to engage then let it finish tearing itself up untill it cannot engage. I had the same problem with my 95 at 201000, I replaced the complete compressor as it was a lot more cost effective. Do not attempt removing the compressor and attempt a belt resizing it will firstly set a computer code (the light on the dash-"check engine") and try to figure the belt routing???? Really the only real worry you have is the bearing inside of that clutch assembly..if it seizes then you have a problem..Hope this helps.
  • bob252,

    Thanks for your thoughts and IE6 struggles! So got the idea that rerouting the belt makes the engine timing unhappy. So first see if I can unplug the AC Compressor to disengage the clutch with the AC compressor becoming a stand-in pulley. I am concerned about the possibility of seizing. Something in the clutch assembly is creating metal shavings and dropping on the frame below.

    Have you ever installed a bypass AC pulley like this as option B?...

    AC Bypass Pulley

    Thanks so much!
  • Hi..I will hope that in this forum that the Buick area will acknowlege this. As pertaining to the A/C clutch assembly and the clutch BEARING they are 2 different situations...the bearing will make a "rod rap" from where it is...then it can continue for a whole lot of miles...the sound can continue to many areas of confusion...do not Junk the car for this reason, but be aware of the situation..that sound is confusing , but, it is the last noise that will continue to confuse the knowlegeable tech. and also been there done that....If the clutch wants to engage due to the low refrigeret level...(due to the age of the vehicle) Then it will not disengage...guess what happens?...no more clutch!..Then it attempts to PERMANENTLY stay engaged...End result...yeah metal shavings below the fan belt on the frame below it. I have an Olds doing the same thing...Mileage is important...Knowlege is supportive...Junkyard low milage parts are cheaper than the replacement clutch assembly. (You Still Have to Recharge anyway) there is no other way..hope this helps.....
  • If you see this again go direct to my E-Mail...save everybody...
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    Check here for a tutorial on changing out the compressor and getting a bypass pulley in. The job looks doable if you have the right tools. As for a shorter belt shortcutting the AC compressor, I don't understand why it would turn on a check engine light. I suspect something else got affected in the work, like sometimes happens.

    I believe yours is a Series II which requires opening the stud spacer on the motor mount... lots of folks in Bonnevilles have done lots of things with their cars.
  • Hi,
    I have a 1997 Buick LeSabre (3.8L) with 187K miles. I've changed the oil & oil filter religiously every 4-5K miles. I recently had an oil leak fixed. The oil sending unit was the culprit and was replaced. So no more oil leak. However, now I see a symptom I've never seem before. The oil pressure will fall nearly into the red at idle after car has been driven for awhile and is nice and warm. Was wondering if this condition points to the recently replaced oil sending unit or could it be the oil pump on its way out? I am going to change the oil and oil filter again (I did it just before I had the leak fixed). I thought maybe something clogged up the oil filter. Any other ideas and/or suggestions. Thanks.
  • Ok my in take gasket warped and water ended up on my spark plugs. The car stalled out and shut down. Oh check engine light came on before the car died.

    The water was drained from the engine and new plugs were put in as well as wires. It was hard to start the car and it tried to shut off on me as it sputters and shutters.

    New the problems. I though was cared for after the vac line was changed, plugs and wires rechecked and a gas line cleaning as well as a TPS censor.

    Now the car does not want to take hills, it surges when I put on breaks, the car pulls funny at 50 to 53 miles an hour and it shutters a nod sputters still as if it wants to cut off on me and finally the engine made a strange revving up noise when I went to shut it off after driving 20 miles to work
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    What caused your intake gasket problem? Are you meaning a head gasket leaked? That usually comes from overheating the car.

    Are you saying the upper intake manifold gasket leaked? You need to tell us what year car and how many miles are on it and what has been done in the way of repairs in the past.

    If water got into the cylinders, then it will do that again. The coolant will hurt the bearings in the motor so driving it without fixing it is asking for an early trip the junkyard with a blown or ruined motor.
  • The intake gasket had warped and water was on spark plugs.The car did not over heat the gasket, filter and intake. I can not describe it anymore because the autoshop did not provide me with any more information than what I gave you. After this was taken care of the car cranks and runns but it does not like to take hills and it shutters and sputters from time to time like it wants to stall out. It pulls hard when the car get to 51 to 53 miles per hour. and some times it rvveis up really hard befor it hits 30 miles per hour.

    I hade thing ran for codes and I got a po102 MAf or VAf check low air intake. PO121 Throttle Pedal

    and a PO122
  • bob252bob252 Posts: 45
    Hi, If you ignore the intake manifold replacement, you are doomed...the plastic unit that comes from the factory has a flaw...which is corrected by replacement after market part (yes I would look for that at Autozone...if there is one nearby, I did that for my current car ( the part is about $128) There is 2 scenerios here, #1, is really death to the engine, as it will (at highway speed) attempt to compress water that it sucks into the intake, (and liquids cannot be compressed) and in second the engine will self destruct...like explde..(not like an explosion) but,you can kiss the engine goodbye...#2 is less problematic, but not your situation, it results in so much oil under the intake that it causes loss of oil (unidentified)..it can be observerd when the intake is removed..(a whole lot of oil on the underneath of the plenum) which is the part that you are replacing., and in that instance there will be alittle smoke when you start your car.So in the end you need either to be competant enough to perform this removal, or to find a certified tech to do the job, (if that person knows how to perform this it really takes about 2-3 hours) In reality, if unknowlegable 2-3 Days...really due to all of the nuts and bolt involved depending on all of the really necessary and unecessary bolts that either do or not need to be removed...I guess that you get the idea???? Other than that if the vehicle has had good care and it is otherwise in good condition...go for it...Hope this HELPS
  • The intake gasket, and filter were changed whether the person had a clue as to what they were doing is beyond me. How do I check to see if the job was completed correctly?
  • Ok I have my bill this is what each shop did.

    Shop one:Replaced Intake, gasket, filter, and thermostat

    The car still ran bad it acted like it wanted to stall. It sputtered and spat and shuttered
    So I went to a second shop.
    Shop 2 replaced: TPS, plugs and wires, cleaned fuel injection system, RR Vac line and oil change.

    The Check engine light came on about 30min after I left the shop. The car does not like to take hills and it pulls when I get up too about 51 to 53 miles an hour.

    Is there a dummy check I can do, to catch something that might be simple?
  • They had little knowledge in this area it took three days.
  • Hey guys I have a 1993 Buick LeSabre with 153K on the motor and tranny. When I bought the car it had sat for a year. When I got the car it started right up after I bought a new battery for it. But now 17K miles later it sputters when it comes to a stop. The check engine light does not come on. But as I am driving down the road it runs like a scared cat. It has great pick up and acceleration. But what is causing the sputtering when I come to a stop? Does it need a tune up? Or is it a vacuum leak? I am getting over 30 mpg on the highway. I have come to the end of my guessing of whats wrong with it. But help me guys.

    Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    Does it sputter if you shift into neutral while slowing down? Does it stall?

    EGR valve is one possibility. It can be removed and cleaned with carb cleaner. Check the tube for deposits under the EGR.
  • This is exactly what I have done. I used a 71" belt and it works like a charm. Now the neighborhood kids don't run in fear when I turn on my road. It's (71 - 6 ) because the pulley's have 6 grooves. You'll have to use a metric 15 wrench with a pipe for leverage on the tension pulley. I used part of a floor jack - you know the part I mean ? It fit right over one edge of the open end of the shorty I used. You'll need a short screwdriver to pry the belt around the tension pulley I would suggest making the 71 work instead of going bigger if it doesn't go right on, because these belts do stretch.
    And you will have to pry it on. Just make sure you pry it on the tension pulley so you are against the back side of the belt and not on the inside ridges.
    Good Luck. :shades:
  • I might add that this is an accessory belt and has nothing to do with the timing. I would have hated to go the procedure of removing the compressor. This is just a work car for me. Although, it IS a very NICE car..... :blush:
  • Well I have not checked that yet. But I need to know where I can find a engine diagram for that motor to find the EGR valve. That would be great if you all could find me that information. Also just curiosity my check engine light comes on now from time to time and it stays on for about ten minutes then it goes off. It does that every 3 to 4 days. I know the transmission is still strong in it because when I stomp on it it doesnt slip at all. So I am just trying to figure out what is going on with those couple things. Thanks alot guys.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    Pull off the vacuum tube on the Fuel Pressure Regulator on the front of the motor. If there's liquid gasoline in the tube or you get a strong smell of gasoline, it may be leaking gasoline from the fuel line into the intake system.

    The FPR is the light aluminum colored thing on the fuel rail in right in the middle of picture going across and about 2/3 of the way to the right.

    image

    EGR valve picture. On exhaust pipe on back of engine close to throttle body end. Has tube going to air intake.

    image
  • Ok so how do I fix the problem with the fuel leaking into the intake system? I am trying to figure it out so I can fix the problem because I love the car and I dont want to get rid of it. Let me know... Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    Do you have liquid fuel in the line from the FPR?
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