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Volkswagen EuroVan

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  • shaa329shaa329 Posts: 2
    My husband and I are looking at different options for travel vans. We are interested in VW Eurovans or Vanagons. In our research we came across electrical-transmission problems associated with the 1992-2003 Eurovans.

    See this link: http://www.gowesty.com/campermodeloverview.html
    Then look for the title: "The Achilles heel of the Eurovan is the Automatic transmission" After reading about all the problems associated with these camper vans we are probably going to consider different type models, not VW. Thanks for the chat!
  • stegnerstegner Posts: 1
    I could use any help available.. My van, the notorius 93 eurovan has been to 2 mechanics (one being the dealership here in Portland, oregon, the other being a volkswagon-only shop) and after many hours of diagnosis, I still don't have a fix for the upcoming problem.. I am pulling my hair out...
    O.k. here is the problem..
    My eurovan (which desperately needs a starter after all of this) runs.. O.K.. after starting. It will run for a while (maybe 10 miles) Once the engine gets to a certain temp, it will sputter.. then die. Sounds like a coil to me you say ... or maybe a distributor..
    Here is what we tried..
    new coil.. nothing
    used distributor.. nothing
    used computer.. nothing
    test pressure in the fuel pump.. O.K.
    tested computer for sensors.. O.K.
    Mechanics put in on a scope when it was acting up and saw that the electrical system was jumping around
    The shops have given up (unless I want to pay them 87 dollars an hour to take some guesses.. plus the price of parts)
    Has anyone seen this in other eurovans..
    Again, I thank you for any time you may spend on this as I have previously said. (1 month and lots of hair loss later I have come to the end of my rope.)

    thanks jason
  • 2bfalcon2bfalcon Posts: 2
    The interior heating/cooling fan on my 5 cylinder, 5 speed manual Eurovan shuts off under fairly heavy acceleration. I believe this is a computerized override to preserve energy for the engine (it may turn off the A/C as well). As soon as I let-up off the accelerator (like at the top of the hill) the fan (and A/C?) kick right back on.
    This became very annoying during a trip in 90 degree weather at 70 mph -- a slight (and I mean very slight) incline and the fan turned off! We cooked until the sun went down.
    Please, if anyone knows how to override this system I would sure like to know.
    Thanks, Bill
  • I was quickly made aware that I had violated the TOA with my followup post, and apologize to all for doing it. However, they were nice enough to send a copy of the post so I could correct it and repost, so here it is-hope it helps:

    Found some potentially helpful information on <another forum which shall remain anonymous), though I have yet to try either. I'll let you know if and when I do:

    1. Loose brake pads (or something of like that). Anyway, go over a bumpy spot that makes the noise, then go over it again, but this time apply some pressure to the brakes to take up any "slop" that might be there. If the noise goes away, there's your culprit.
    2. Apparently, some EVs were shipped with under-torqued engine mount bolts that become loose. The plastic sheild under the front needs to come off then the bolts can be tightened. They said to check the Bentley manual for the proper torque.

    Good luck!
  • 01evcgirl01evcgirl Posts: 1
    I would like to know if anyone has suggestions for tires on a 01 camper. I read about the michelin energy mxv4 plus XL as well as the suggestion for yokohamas. Has anyone had both on their van? Concerned about the noise as mentioned about the yokohamas--the van is loud enough!

    Also does anyone know if it is possible to hook up the stereo to the aux. battery? I would love to have tunes, but am concerned about the usage on the engine battery.

    Lastly, I was told by the tire shop today that I have to take the van to a VW dealer to have it aligned as they are the only ones with a the special tool required. Anyone know about this? I was wondering if the vw specialty mechanics shop can do it? All the shops were closed when I found out about it tonight so I couldn't call!

    Thanks in advance!
    D
  • evsleeperevsleeper Posts: 1
    The clutch pedal on my 1995 Eurovan (5 speed manual transmission - 125,000 miles) is soft and not disengaging the clutch consistently so that it is difficult or impossible to shift gears without pumping the pedal at low speed alternating with working fine. Any thoughts about what it may be? If it's the clutch master cylinder, is its replacement a do-it-yourself project and if so, can anybody describe how to do it to me? Thanks.
  • jsj0725jsj0725 Posts: 1
    My '93 Euro is needing a starter and having the same problem. Brother-in-law in the California desert says he sees this in other cars. His advice is to replace the starter. Apparently it over heats when the heat shield wears and shuts the car down... Actually it has done this every summer for the last 3-4 years after the weather hits above 95 degrees. Have tried all the things that you tried previously, so am going to replace the starter this week. Good luck!
  • How does one replace the left rear brake light on a 00 Eurovan Camper? What has to be removed? Should I go in through the floor of the closet or remove the plastic moulding, or remove the inverter? No directions in the docs.
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Posts: 271
    I could use any help available.. My van, the notorius 93 eurovan has been to 2 mechanics (one being the dealership here in Portland, oregon, the other being a volkswagon-only shop) and after many hours of diagnosis, I still don't have a fix for the upcoming problem.. I am pulling my hair out...
    O.k. here is the problem..
    My eurovan (which desperately needs a starter after all of this) runs.. O.K.. after starting. >It will run for a while (maybe 10 miles) Once the engine gets to a certain temp, it will sputter.. then die. Sounds like a coil to me you say ... or maybe a distributor..

    Actually, it sounds like a faulty cold start valve or temp sensor that is making the cold start valve stay open too long.

    >>The shops have given up (unless I want to pay them 87 dollars an hour to take some guesses.. plus the price of parts)

    You already have. You paid the clowns to change parts that obviously didn't need to be changed. If they aren't testing the parts prior to replacing them.... leave immediately and demand your money back.

    These guys aren't mechanics... they are monkeys that know just enough to speak mechanic-ese and steal your money. Anyone can replace parts. You need someone who can diagnose. Unfortunately, they are getting hard to find, especially for the Eurovan because Vw only sold a few dozen of them here in the US. Stay away from the VW mechanic types-- the ones who only work on old bugs-- and find someone who specializes in later model euros. The computer/electrical systems will be similar.

    In the future, try busdepot.com for your parts. There is also a good resource on yahoo groups for eurovan owners. They make nearly a thousand posts a month. They may be able to help.

    >>His advice is to replace the starter.

    Starter? If it's FAILING to start when hot, you may need a starter (actually probably just the solenoid but it seems you cannot replace just that anymore). A failing starter would not have a thing to do with the engine dying.
  • :cry: :sick: :sick: DON'T DO IT!!!! We have had nothing but problems with our 2001 Eurovan MV and I can't get rid of the car because I owe more than it is worth. The first year we had it, the a/c went at 30K miles and the sun roof started to leak. Then the check engine light went on and an unannounced recall cost us close to $800 dollars. the sliding door bearing went, the door locks don't work from the key fob, the lock on the back door won't open with out the key, the side view mirrors don't go up and down anymore and this is all within the first 2 1/2 years of owning the car. Now in my third year, the transmission is having problems. The car is fun but it is a PIECE OF JUNK and I know of two other folks who have had multiple problems. One of which was leased and the got the dealership to take it back under the lemon law. So, as much fun as they are, you would be best to listen to your wife. i had a Town and Country for three years before this and NEVER had any problems. I will never buy a volkswagen again. And I am very sad that my car stinks.
  • Hi thanks for the reply

    Couple questions: any leaking into the pop top from the installation? and is the rack so high that it's impossible to use without a step ladder?
  • vwman2vwman2 Posts: 2
    ive just installed a new clutch in my 1993 euro the full monty machined the fly wheel the lot in stall it in the back yard on my back and its not working it goes it gear with out the clutch when motor is running there dose not seem to have any movement in the pressure bearing arm when i remove the slave cylinder can u help with this thanks vw man 2
  • You probably have the same problem I had which I had to pound into the dealers head to look at. The wiring harness in the driver door gets kinked and develops shorts and opens, creating ultimately even more havoc than you describe. It can be repaired but if it is under warranty they can just replace it for less cost to them. Watch out they cracked my door trim panel in the repair process and I now have to take it back to get that fixed.
  • i have a 93 ev with new clutch(10k) on it. i started having trouble getting into or out of gear recently .. i added brake fluid and it temporarily went away .. are the clutch and brake master cylinder both fed by the same resovoir? can anyone recommend a good shop in the state of ny? i am going to have the system flushed and bled .. does this sound like a remedy?
  • question for Jason do you have any answer for this problem,I do have same trouble,sound like temperature sensor
    Any help will be appreciated.
    Thanks
    robertol
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    anyone gotten any yet?? not looking for bling bling wheels, just a decent 16 in one, Tirerack don't exactly have a great selection for Eurovans
  • july9thjuly9th Posts: 1
    I am having a very similar issue with my 2001 Weekender and wondered if you ever found a solution to your Brake Light issue...

    Here are my symptoms:

    When the hand brake is taken off, intermittently, the dash "Brake" light stays lit. If I drive in this condition, a warning beep sounds about once every second until I come to a stop. Then the beeping ceases but the brake light stays lit. During the time that the Brake light is lit, my headlights don't work, and neither does my fan/heater/AC. Sometimes, if I just turn off the engine and start the van again, the problem disappears and I'm able to drive as normal. On the flip side of that weirdness is the fact that sometimes, while driving in a "normal" condition, the brake light (with beeping, failure of headlights, etc.) will come on at random ...

    This is a maddening problem that my local repair people seem baffled by... ANY help you may be able to offer would be so appreciated.
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 975
    July9th,

    You might also want to post your question in the Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems that are driving you crazy discussion -- the members there are likely to have some ideas.

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I too am an owner of a 2001 Eurovan MV and have loved it. It has the VR6 engine (there were 3 different types of engines for 2001 year) However, when it was not moving forward and not gaining speed and then all of a sudden would 'catch' we took it the dealership. Luckily it was under the extended warranty because otherwise we would be paying for a new transmission at 52k miles($5700) plus a compressor? ($1500). Ouch. Still waiting to hear back from the dealer but after hearing those amounts I was wondering if they can 'total' a car for that much money?
    Other than that biggie? it's been great. Although I'm thinking of going back to my old '86 syncro(176k miles same engine) which I adored and didn't have nearly as many repairs as the Eurovan.
  • I have a '93 Eurovan Weekender MV and I have been having the same problems off and on for two years. I also have taken it to two Portland, OR area VW specialists and about 2 or 3 general mechanics all to no avail.
    The van will start up fine and run great for hours in all temperatures and then just die. Sometimes it'll start right up other times it may take a day or two before it will re-start.
    We tried new distributor, two new alternators, new temperature sensor and even a tune up - to no avail. Then last summer we had a new solenoid installed and that solved the problem - until that is - last night. Now we can't get it to start again.
    What if any progresses have you had - or has anyone had.
  • I am having the same problem also. Did you find out how to fix it?
    2001 Eurovan head lights, dash lights and AC go off intermittently, brake light stays lit and makes beeping sound
  • Hello, I have 1995 eurovan (4 speed auto with the audio 2,5 cylinder) with 350,000 kilometers on it. My problem is that in 4th gear the torque converter is always locked. Is this normal? does anybody else have this problem?. I have been really gentle with this tranny over the last year by manual shifting down to 3rd just before the engine does it. I thus avoid very had shifts. Over the last month I now have a new noise. When shifting from 3rd to 4th I hear a little low squeak, I believe this is due to the transmission being locked in 4th and since I was in third I now getting some slipping due to transmission speeds not in sync. I am under the impression that the transmission should shift into 4th and THEN lock. Also should the tranny not unlock in forth when I touch the gas??. I have the manual but cannot find anything relating to this problem. any info would be awesome thks Paul
  • Have you checked all your vacume lines. My 94 was doing something similiar. at certain times a vacume line from the throttle sensor was resting on the engine and a small hole developed. AT times the hole was sealed and all was ok, other times it opened up and motor shut down, good luck
  • jflojflo Posts: 1
    hello from big sky country,

    i have a 1992 eurovan that i am considering selling. since it was only shipped to canada and is, i believe, the first and last eurovan to have westafalia interior, it is pretty much impossible to find in most records, ie. blue book etc. i know that the westafalia factor is pretty coveted.....though it's got some miles on it, about 225,000, it's still got lots of life left as a camper van.....maybe not as a "main car." can anyone point me in the right direction?

    much thanks
  • I drive a 1990 VW Westfalia Multivan (automatic transmission) 74000 km total mileage. heh we call it precious and ordered it when new fro gemany..The last few months when the engine is cold it will kick. For instance I have left my drive way got to the stop at the end of the street applied the gas to move and it jerks, kicks like it was either.. 1. stuck in a stop position 2. The brake had not released correctly. Whats weird is it only does this for the first say three stops then when the engine is warm I have no more problems.. Has any one ever heard of such a thing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. We suspect the tranny but well do not want to get taken to the cleaners by a transmission company for no reason..
    :sick:
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 975
    jflo, you might want to ask the folks in the Advice on Selling Your Car discussion if they have any ideas.

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • mikej1mikej1 Posts: 1
    can u help? i have a 1998 vw 2.5tdi.the problem i have is that after driving it for a while, it just cuts out, i could be going 20mph or 60 mph at high revs, it just still cuts out? the oil light starts flashing, then the rev,s drop, followed by the ignition light on. it will not start until the glow plug light comes back on? this can take anything from 10seconds to 10 minutes. i have taken it to a garage who put it on a mobile diagnostic machine, but this came up with nothing, as when the problem occured, the machine read nothing as the power to the machine was not present.

    any ideas anybody????????????/
  • Could use some help on this one. On Wednesday, we had difficulty getting the van out of park, to move it from the driveway. Then difficulty getting it into reverse. So, we took it to the nearest vw service and left it all day. They could not duplicate the problem, so we picked it up last night. Has anyone had this problem?

    Over the 5 years we have had several electronic issues that were all fixed.
    thanks,
    deb
  • Hi there,

    I have a 2001 Eurovan camper and would like to get a roof rack. I understand that I need to get tracks that will be screwed to the top of the roof and because of the material of the roof I cannot use the false gutters system. Have you installed something on your 2003 Eurovan and are you satisfied? I am concern about leaking problems, I live in British Columbia Canada and we get real winter here.
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