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Volkswagen EuroVan

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Comments

  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,964
    The auto parts stores should carry some "gasket" lube for the door seals. The Odyssey people use something for their sliding doors that are prone to sticking - shin-itzu grease or similar. It has a reputation for working so you may ask at your Honda dealer for some to try.

    Graphite works good for frozen cylinder locks, but I don't know if some spray graphite would do any good on the top mechanism.

    Steve, Host
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Posts: 271
    >>I thought some WD-40 on the locking mechanism of the camper top might help. Let me know. Thanks.

    WD40 stands for "water displacement 40" meaning 40th formula. It's a good cleaner and it certainly displaces water, but is not much of a lubricant regardless of what the bottle says. Like many guys who used to wear camoflauge, I used to think it was the berries. Even used it for mouthwash and deoderant occasionally. It's great for cleaning rifles, and keeping them from rusting, but it shouldn't be around your automobile much.

    I agree and would use graphite on the locking mechanism of the top and for that freezing sliding door lock mechanism.

    >>My MV Weekender's top creaks as well.

    Record cold makes funny things happen, like plastics creaking or stiff steering. If it's a new problem and it disappears when the temps return to 0 degrees or higher, I wouldn't be concerned unless I lived in Greenland.

    Understand that these vans have about 3/4 of their roofs cut off. The area around the incision is reinforced, but still not nearly as structurally rigid as a solid top van. It's very similar to a convertible in that it will always be less rigid and more likely to creak and have noises due to this lack of rigidity.

    >>coolent return hose mounted upside down so the cooling fan cuts a hole into the hose

    I assume VW fixed it. You have a Winnebago EV Camper, right? Maybe they had it off for some reason?

    >>stearing wheel rough on cold days

    Not uncommon, at least for the really cold days.

    >>-electric water pump leak

    Winnebago.

    >>-sliding door lock sticks when cold

    Graphite lube in the lock. For that matter, do all your locks. While you are at it, do all of the hinges on everything that moves (doors, hatch, hood, wiper arms, etc) with a good lube like spray silicone or just plain old grease. Get in the habit of doing this.

    >>-can't get trans into reverse

    Never heard of this. Major problem I would think, although it could be as simple as a sensor or shifter adjustment.

    VW hasn't produced quality vehicles for decades. The engines and trannies seem strong enough, but electrical and fit & finish issues aren't what they should be. Be persistent with the service dept and don't take no for an answer. You paid a lot for this van, I'm sure.
  • meed7meed7 Posts: 2
    As noted above, if you take a stout steel box and remove one side, you take away most of its torsional stiffness (try it with a cardboard box sometime), and the result is creaking and shuddering and general pusillanimity in response to bumps and blows on the highway. To me this is the single worst trait of my EV Weekender, in comparison to my old non-pop-top Vanagon, which was a brick (in nearly every way).

    I'm wondering if anyone has added any cross-bracing to their pop-top VW vans to try to counteract this problem. It seems to me that a couple of 1" alloy tubes, firmly anchored to the roof perimeter structure up by the B pillars and back at the rear, would add some stiffness back to the box, and add greatly to the van's road manners... as well as reducing all that stomach-turning creaking and shuddering that we have now.

    Ideas, anyone?

    regards,
    Ed
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,964
    It's amazing how much structural support is designed in with the roof. Convertibles are usually pointed to as the corollary since they require such heavy chassis mods to keep them rigid.

    That said, I think it'd be pretty hard to cobble on much cabin stiffness after the design stage.

    Have you thought about suspension mods, anti-sway bars and the like?

    Think how bad it'd be if you added a second slider like they did with my Quest. Crash test results went down when they did that!

    Steve, Host
  • meed7meed7 Posts: 2
    Has anyone with 215 tires on 15" rims (215/70 and 215/75) been able to fit chains or cables over them?

    Or for that matter has anyone running anything bigger than a 205 width been able to fit chains or cables? I know VW says its a no-no, but I'm wondering what the practical experience has been.

    I need chains for about one hour every three years, and I hate to compromise (downsize) my tires too much for the other 26,279 hours, just for that one hour of (highway-department-mandated) traction.

    regards,
    Ed
  • luby100luby100 Posts: 1
    The rear brakes on my 2002 where completely worn out about a year (approx. 18k mi.)after I purchased. I was told that I would need new rotors/discs and brake pads. It not cheap to replace these and am wondering am I going to have to do this every year or more?

    Several mechanics have told me that they believe that VW under-engineered the brakes and discs for this vehicle. Has anyone else experiences this?
  • mlfranzmlfranz Posts: 7
    I just had all the brakes replaced on my 2001 Eurovan, at approx 28K miles. It cost me just shy of $1,000 (included a brake fluid change.) I've read elsewhere the brakes do wear out more quickly on the 2001+ Eurovans but I suppose it depends on your driving habits.
  • greetings, all. i have had a life-long love affair with the vw van. my love for the vehicle started when i was in third grade--while friends dreamed of camaros and 911s, i poured over the microbus (and later eurovan) sales brochures my beloved dad picked up for me (with raised eyebrow, i might add).

    i'm now 30-something, i still really want a new eurovan camper, and the wife says it's ok. and so my question: is now the time to buy new, or should i wait for the (maybe) upcoming microbus? i'd purchase the long-wheelbase, full-featured camper (sadly w/o the syncro or TDI options). from what i've read on the internet and heard from a few owners, the eurovan--while now fast and roomy--seems to have serious issues with reliability, durability, and crashworthiness. i've owned acura, toyota, and nissan with virtually no reliability issues. could you all give me your advice? should i buy new, should i buy used, or should i wait for the next redo (presumably the microbus)?

    thanks in advance for your kind advice.
    tim, gentlegiant
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,964
    I had a '69 bus and fond memories, even though it had head gasket problems and wasn't around all that long.

    I'd wait for the new one if you can, but it's not coming until 2005 it seems. I looked into Eurovans in '99 but their reputation is all over the map. Hopefully the new Microbus will sell significant numbers and make the parts cheaper and more easily found.

    Current owners (or other shoppers), please weigh in.

    And a moment of silence for the soon to be extinct old Beetle :-)

    Steve, Host
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Almost $ 1000 for new brakes at 28K miles? Let me guess: they replaced all rotors, installed new pads and changed the fluid. Ridiculously high for a VW. I have an 83 Mercedes 300 SD and I can buy four rotors and two sets of brake pads from thebenzbin.com for about $ 250. And these are brand name German made parts! Changing the brake fluid is an inexpensive service, usually only $ 50 on any car. And brake rotor/pad replacement should not be more than two hours labor even if the mechanic is really slow.

    I am surprised that a vehicle should need new brakes after only 28 K miles. I would not bother replacing the rotors every times unless they are deeply gouged warped. The sad thing is, today's rotors are made deliberately thin so that very little or no extra metal thickness is left to be able to turn them and reuse them.
  • zavfejzavfej Posts: 13
    I just finished picking up my '01 Weekender at VW for a complete brake job - 4 rotors and pads. It has 38K miles, so I had the 40K tune up done as well. $1500.
    I almost dropped dead when I got the bill. It would not be so bad, but this is the 2nd set of rotors and 4th set of pads in 38K miles - ridiculous. I called VWoA and gopt absolutely no satisfaction from them as, 6 months ago, when I had the rear pads changed, the dealer told me to replace the rotors and I declined - just could not afford it at the time.
    VWoA said that becuase it was recommended and I declined, they were under no obligation to take responsibility for the excessive brake wear - its sick how much I spent on brakes ion this VDub.
    Otherwise, we love the vehicle, it is different and comfortable and utilitarian. Plenty of power, decent handling. Just these stinking brakes...
    Does anyone recommend any other vehicle in place of this one?
  • mlfranzmlfranz Posts: 7
    No, the rotors were not replaced but the all 4 pads were and the fluid was flushed.

    Pads are dealer-only for now; no aftermarket yet for the 2001's.

    28000 is about average for this model Eurovan, from what I've heard. The vehicle is driven mostly in the suburbs of Chicago, primarily stop-and-go.
  • mlfranzmlfranz Posts: 7
    I feel your pain! The work on my '01 was performed by an independant mechanic and I still paid about $1000.

    What was done at the 40k service other than the brakes?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    $ 1000 for 4 sets of brake pads and brake fluid replacement? Are these characters using Space Shuttle brake pads on this van? I have owned a lot of cars, including foreign cars, in my life. Never heard of brake pads that expensive. Something is wrong here. Somebody said that VW underengineered the brakes for this van. Yes, on purpose! This must be a killer money maker for them.
  • libertycatlibertycat Posts: 593
    Here is my minivan ranking-
    1)'04+ Sienna
    2)'00+ MPV
    3)'01+ T&C & GC
    4)'96+ Chevy Venture, Pontiac Montana/Trans Sport, and Olds Silhouette long wheelbase
    5)'04+ Quest
    6)'00+ Windstar
    7)'99+ Odyssey
    8)'01+ Caravan/Voyager
    9)'96+ short wheelbase Chevy Venture and Pontiac Montana/Trans Sport
    10)Volkswagen Euro Van
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    This forum is really boring. One or two messages a month?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,964
    What did VW sell in the US last year - ~750 Eurovans? Not a big pool of owners to pull from.

    Maybe in '05 when the Microbus hits the showrooms you'll see some activity.

    Steve, Host
  • big_guybig_guy Posts: 372
    What VW needs to do is get away from the gas hog VR6 engine in the EuroVan and put in a much more efficient TDI of some sort (maybe the 2.5L V6 TDI or even the new 2.0L TDI that is supposed to be introduced in the Passat). I think the poor fuel economy ratings are one of the major reasons people steer clear of the EuroVan.
  • tlriiitlriii Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Eurovan, MVP. We just recently passed the 30,000 mi. mark and took it in for the required maintenance. Nothing major except some minor brake work required. However, the check engine light recently illuminated, and stayed on for about a day or two. It finally went off after I had called a mechanic to schedule it for a check up. It seems to drive fine so I cancelled the appointment. Any one else have a similar experience? Any advice on what to watch for with this van? Overall, I'm quite satisfied with the van. It hasn't cost me too much to maintain and is rather reliable.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,964
    Fingers usually point at a loose gas cap when the check engine light illuminates. Hopefully that's all it was and the light went off when the condition cleared itself.

    Some auto parts stores will pull the codes for free and you could see if any codes are stored in the van's computer.

    Steve, Host
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