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Volkswagen EuroVan

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Comments

  • lizard2806lizard2806 Posts: 8
    I got the rattle and shakes. Have not tried to figure out what it is. Sounds like a large marble bouncing around somewhere in front of me. Love to know what it is.
  • lizard2806lizard2806 Posts: 8
    Does anyone do these themselves? How hard are they for the do-it-yourselfer with only a handful of car knowledge? Would it pay to replace the pads every 18k or so to reduce the amount of times the rotors would need to be replaced (if it makes a difference)?

    Thanks
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 974
    Lizard2806, the folks in the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes Forum could probably answer your questions.

    ClaireS

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • slvrbulletslvrbullet Posts: 2
    Now driving 02EV weekndr 78k. Gas fume smell is "burning eyes" strong near in the driver side door area. Dealers tech. warned me "When fillin' up at fuel pump, dont' squeeze the handle to get that extra cent", reasoning b/c the vapor control systems faulty design, is causing any tank overfill flow to saturate the charcoal filter in the vapor control system. Then U probably guess whats next, you are required to purchase this replacement part if you'd like to experience driving your EV gas fume free again. ;) VW America refuses to pursue any Defect Investigations or initiate any Campaign for Service Action regarding this design flaw, which causes this fume safety problem.
  • mgsukimgsuki Posts: 3
    Hi
    Have you gone the next step and replaced the vapor cannister? I've thought about it just to see if it resolves my fume problem. thks
  • sniffy1sniffy1 Posts: 1
    I am an owner of a 2001 eurovan, this is the worst car I have ever owned. At 60,000 miles the transmission needs to be replaced, I have had all the servicing done at the Dealer, VW of America offers no help with the MANY problems I have had with this car. The van has so many problems , parts are not readily available and when the are they are very expensive! Buy a BMW, or a HONDA and save yourself $$$$ and a lot of Headaches!
  • jack_sonjack_son Posts: 4
    Hi Surfamily4,
    I put Thule Top-Trac 5 ft long rails against plastic pop-top of my Eurovan Winnie Camper. I Used 22 -- 10-32 -- short neoprene Well-Nuts - - ACE Hardware.
    Got 4 Thule type ????? to support 2 Thule rectangular cross bars. More details if you are interested.
    Jack_son
  • slvrbulletslvrbullet Posts: 2
    Carbon in the vapor control system most likely has been saturated by an overflow of gas from the tank.
  • Hi there,
    I am also looking for a roofrack system for a 97 eurovan camper and have heard of both the false gutter option and the top track option. On the winnebago pop-top, the material of the pop-roof is thinner and not as rigid and I have been told by a couple of people that the false gutter brackets would not hold well (they do hold well on the westfalia pop-roof as the material is sturdier.
    What have you heard?
    I am considering installing the thule tracks on the top (where the two grooves are in the pop-top) and then attaching the thule feet and bars to these tracks. I understand that Yakima also make something like this.
    Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
    Chris
  • keno1keno1 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I am having a difficult time finding a specific part for my Eurovan.... the Euro is in the shop after having the transmission replaced (with a used but tested tranny)... After replacing it, it runs as bad or worse than before. The shop then told me that I need a transmission shifting module. Supposedly it is a device that electronically tells the engine/ trans when to shift into the appropriate gear. I was also told that this module has to correspond to my VIN # (which is WV2KC070XPH038256). Does anyone out there know anything about this module and/or where I may be able to find one? Any assistance would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks very much.

    Ken
  • shaa329shaa329 Posts: 2
    My husband and I are looking at different options for travel vans. We are interested in VW Eurovans or Vanagons. In our research we came across electrical-transmission problems associated with the 1992-2003 Eurovans.

    See this link: http://www.gowesty.com/campermodeloverview.html
    Then look for the title: "The Achilles heel of the Eurovan is the Automatic transmission" After reading about all the problems associated with these camper vans we are probably going to consider different type models, not VW. Thanks for the chat!
  • stegnerstegner Posts: 1
    I could use any help available.. My van, the notorius 93 eurovan has been to 2 mechanics (one being the dealership here in Portland, oregon, the other being a volkswagon-only shop) and after many hours of diagnosis, I still don't have a fix for the upcoming problem.. I am pulling my hair out...
    O.k. here is the problem..
    My eurovan (which desperately needs a starter after all of this) runs.. O.K.. after starting. It will run for a while (maybe 10 miles) Once the engine gets to a certain temp, it will sputter.. then die. Sounds like a coil to me you say ... or maybe a distributor..
    Here is what we tried..
    new coil.. nothing
    used distributor.. nothing
    used computer.. nothing
    test pressure in the fuel pump.. O.K.
    tested computer for sensors.. O.K.
    Mechanics put in on a scope when it was acting up and saw that the electrical system was jumping around
    The shops have given up (unless I want to pay them 87 dollars an hour to take some guesses.. plus the price of parts)
    Has anyone seen this in other eurovans..
    Again, I thank you for any time you may spend on this as I have previously said. (1 month and lots of hair loss later I have come to the end of my rope.)

    thanks jason
  • 2bfalcon2bfalcon Posts: 2
    The interior heating/cooling fan on my 5 cylinder, 5 speed manual Eurovan shuts off under fairly heavy acceleration. I believe this is a computerized override to preserve energy for the engine (it may turn off the A/C as well). As soon as I let-up off the accelerator (like at the top of the hill) the fan (and A/C?) kick right back on.
    This became very annoying during a trip in 90 degree weather at 70 mph -- a slight (and I mean very slight) incline and the fan turned off! We cooked until the sun went down.
    Please, if anyone knows how to override this system I would sure like to know.
    Thanks, Bill
  • I was quickly made aware that I had violated the TOA with my followup post, and apologize to all for doing it. However, they were nice enough to send a copy of the post so I could correct it and repost, so here it is-hope it helps:

    Found some potentially helpful information on <another forum which shall remain anonymous), though I have yet to try either. I'll let you know if and when I do:

    1. Loose brake pads (or something of like that). Anyway, go over a bumpy spot that makes the noise, then go over it again, but this time apply some pressure to the brakes to take up any "slop" that might be there. If the noise goes away, there's your culprit.
    2. Apparently, some EVs were shipped with under-torqued engine mount bolts that become loose. The plastic sheild under the front needs to come off then the bolts can be tightened. They said to check the Bentley manual for the proper torque.

    Good luck!
  • 01evcgirl01evcgirl Posts: 1
    I would like to know if anyone has suggestions for tires on a 01 camper. I read about the michelin energy mxv4 plus XL as well as the suggestion for yokohamas. Has anyone had both on their van? Concerned about the noise as mentioned about the yokohamas--the van is loud enough!

    Also does anyone know if it is possible to hook up the stereo to the aux. battery? I would love to have tunes, but am concerned about the usage on the engine battery.

    Lastly, I was told by the tire shop today that I have to take the van to a VW dealer to have it aligned as they are the only ones with a the special tool required. Anyone know about this? I was wondering if the vw specialty mechanics shop can do it? All the shops were closed when I found out about it tonight so I couldn't call!

    Thanks in advance!
    D
  • evsleeperevsleeper Posts: 1
    The clutch pedal on my 1995 Eurovan (5 speed manual transmission - 125,000 miles) is soft and not disengaging the clutch consistently so that it is difficult or impossible to shift gears without pumping the pedal at low speed alternating with working fine. Any thoughts about what it may be? If it's the clutch master cylinder, is its replacement a do-it-yourself project and if so, can anybody describe how to do it to me? Thanks.
  • jsj0725jsj0725 Posts: 1
    My '93 Euro is needing a starter and having the same problem. Brother-in-law in the California desert says he sees this in other cars. His advice is to replace the starter. Apparently it over heats when the heat shield wears and shuts the car down... Actually it has done this every summer for the last 3-4 years after the weather hits above 95 degrees. Have tried all the things that you tried previously, so am going to replace the starter this week. Good luck!
  • How does one replace the left rear brake light on a 00 Eurovan Camper? What has to be removed? Should I go in through the floor of the closet or remove the plastic moulding, or remove the inverter? No directions in the docs.
  • mrnimmomrnimmo Posts: 271
    I could use any help available.. My van, the notorius 93 eurovan has been to 2 mechanics (one being the dealership here in Portland, oregon, the other being a volkswagon-only shop) and after many hours of diagnosis, I still don't have a fix for the upcoming problem.. I am pulling my hair out...
    O.k. here is the problem..
    My eurovan (which desperately needs a starter after all of this) runs.. O.K.. after starting. >It will run for a while (maybe 10 miles) Once the engine gets to a certain temp, it will sputter.. then die. Sounds like a coil to me you say ... or maybe a distributor..

    Actually, it sounds like a faulty cold start valve or temp sensor that is making the cold start valve stay open too long.

    >>The shops have given up (unless I want to pay them 87 dollars an hour to take some guesses.. plus the price of parts)

    You already have. You paid the clowns to change parts that obviously didn't need to be changed. If they aren't testing the parts prior to replacing them.... leave immediately and demand your money back.

    These guys aren't mechanics... they are monkeys that know just enough to speak mechanic-ese and steal your money. Anyone can replace parts. You need someone who can diagnose. Unfortunately, they are getting hard to find, especially for the Eurovan because Vw only sold a few dozen of them here in the US. Stay away from the VW mechanic types-- the ones who only work on old bugs-- and find someone who specializes in later model euros. The computer/electrical systems will be similar.

    In the future, try busdepot.com for your parts. There is also a good resource on yahoo groups for eurovan owners. They make nearly a thousand posts a month. They may be able to help.

    >>His advice is to replace the starter.

    Starter? If it's FAILING to start when hot, you may need a starter (actually probably just the solenoid but it seems you cannot replace just that anymore). A failing starter would not have a thing to do with the engine dying.
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