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Volkswagen EuroVan

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  • larvalarva Posts: 2
    my '01 eurovan brake indicator in the dash has come on and will not go away. all the time i'm driving it beeps at me. when i stop, it stops. when i start up again, it starts up again. it is driving me insane! the brake fluid is fine, the brake sensors and pads are fine. we thought maybe the sensor under the hand brake cover was stuck "on" but, no, it's not. meanwhile the windshield wipers, headlights, and AC don't work! any ideas? please help!
  • sbaussiesbaussie Posts: 5
    don't know if you fixed it but if not go to the cheapest piece first. If the Temp sending unit is bad it will tell the engine computer it is really cold and the computer will enrichen the mixture to compensate = big running problems
    cheap part
  • sbaussiesbaussie Posts: 5
    Just went through the engine light deal. Light on van running rough. If it stays on go to your service/dealer. They can tell you in about 25 seconds what it relates too. Mine was a bad coil on #1 cylinder . They took it out swapped with #2 and retested it now #2 showed a bad coil. So cleaned all the contact and $52.00 later I'm on my way van running great.
    you can do the diagnostics yourself for about $200 . check VAG-COM
  • yushenyushen Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 weekender. I just purchased an Optima Blue-top D34M "Dual-purpose" battery from Costco (it's labeled as D34, but I'm pretty sure that it's actually the D34M because it's got the light-gray color and is also labeled dual-purpose). It was about $145, and it fits just fine if laid on its side. As far as I can tell from Optima's web site (and by calling their phone number), the light gray blue-tops are deep-cycle, and the dark-gray blue-tops are starter.

    The width of the battery is no problem: it's 10" wide, and there's about 13.25" of space width-wise under the driver's seat.

    It's the height under the driver's seat that's the main constraint. I measured that I could handle a battery as high as about 7.75". Laid sideways, the Blue-top D34M is just 6.83", so it was no problem.

    In terms of the other direction, depth (i.e. forward/backward with respect to the front of the car and back of the car), I measured that I could take a battery that was 7.75" deep and remain seated on the metal battery plate (I bet I could probably handle something larger if I didn't care to stay seated on that plate). Anyway, although the specs on Optima's web site say that it's 7.9" (which exceeds my 7.75" depth allowance), it fits. The reason is that the metal terminals have some height...maybe an inch or so. I did have to remove and get rid of the little metal screw-down tab that locks the battery in place to the floor of the car. That's alright; I think the battery is relatively boxed-in / secure enough in there to be safe... and not need to be locked down.

    P.S. One thing confused me when buying the battery. I had hoped to buy the Yellow-top D34/78 because that's what I've seen other folks post about. But Costco didn't carry it. From what I can tell, the Blue-top D34M is identical (the specs seem to indicate the same physical dimensions, same deep-cycle, and same electrical specs)... except that the Yellow-Top has an extra set of side-terminals.

    Also, I don't quite understand why I'm finding that the Blue-top D34M fits fine, when others say that the Yellow-Top D34/78 (which according to Optima's web site's specs has almost identical dimensions) doesn't fit and needs to have it's top terminals cut off. Maybe that's true for Vanagons... or maybe that's was true for earlier versions of the Yellow-top battery. I dunno.
  • bfeenybfeeny Posts: 4
    Can anyone tell me how to repair torn screens without removing the canvas. Also the canvas is dirty and stained - what do you clean it with?
  • vtforvwvtforvw Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm thinking of buying a 2002 Eurovan MV with pop up and the carfax shows it recently failed the emission test several times. Carfax warns that this could be engine problems. Should I avoid the vehicle? I really want a Eurovan! What if I get a good price for it to cover any repairs that may be needed?
    Thank you!
  • keybankerkeybanker Posts: 20
    My 1999 Eurovan which was running great required $2,500 in engine repairs in order to pass DEQ. That included replacing the gas tank. I love my Eurovan camper but be prepared for BIG repair bills if you buy one.
  • luby1luby1 Posts: 2
    I need new tires for the Eurovan again. It was very expensive last time, but now its ridiculous to get the tires rated for the VAN (over 1k installed). The tire salesman told that almost nobody is buying the only tire (Dunlops) available for the Eurovan anymore. They are all going for the next best thing. I trust these guys implicitly but, obviously, the dealer wont condone it. I went for it and bought tires rated at the 98T as opposed to 102's.

    Anyone else at there make the same decision, and what was their experience?
  • If you email VW about it, they will point to "Nokian Tyres". There is a distributor in the U.S.. I just recently got my first set a month or so ago. www.meadowbrook.com or go to "http://www.nokiantires.com/dealer-locator" to find one. You may find that the nearest dealer doesn't exist, but I would hope that is rare. Wichita, for example, doesn't sell them, though there is one listed or shown for Wichita. I checked a couple of places in Texas and Nebraska and one was just a gas station and the other never replied with the promised email, but the one in Denver is the main one for me in Oklahoma and didn't have any problem.
    I bought the WR-C model (commercial van tires) and they are stiff and will ride rough. I have 50lb psi in them. They look good and should last well over 40k, from what I was told. Those run about $142/ea with approx. $15 shipping for each.
    The WRG2 model will cost you nearly $300 more in the total.
  • One last note....you need 102+ rated tires. The tires will wear out in weird ways and places if you don't. I tried that after the original Michelins wore out and after a few years of replacing a tire here and there, discovered that 97 rated tires were way underrated for a van that has a 6k lb GVWR. I bought almost the last set of Michelins in the country and they lasted 40k to the mile and then I just recently replaced them with the Nokians. I found out about these two years ago after I had bought the Michelins....for the same price. I paid about $80 to install them and add Nitrogen. I tried Nitrogen a couple of years ago when I had the Michelins put on and noticed they lost nor gained air pressure during any and all seasons. So, I figured it wasn't a gimmick....and had it put into my wifes tires as well.
  • jdogdenjdogden Posts: 1
    Hope you have your answer by now but if not, I had the same situation on my 2001 EV and the problem is that ignition key switch. You do not need to remove the actual switch but can buy the internal component from the dealer. You must work under the dash to remove the component and replace with the new. I suggest you buy the part first and then you will know what you need to remove from the switch. Not the most fun working position but you can do it yourself in about 1 hour.
  • luby1luby1 Posts: 2
    Thanks so much for the detailed info! One last question. I already went ahead with the tires rated at 98 due to budget constraints. I figured better than the cracked Michelins. I am willing to replace them in a year or as soon as I can find a reasonable 102+. My Eurovan has a GVWR of around 5500 and I dont generally haul around much cargo. Am I really flirting with a disaster? Did you experience any blow outs when you were riding on the 97's?

    The closest nokiantire is 500 miles away. Maybe reason for a road trip :-)
  • I own a 1995 Eurovan camper that I imported new from Canada. For the past 2 years the engine will occasionally just shut down for an instant then resume. This appears to be an electrical problem because it happens so abruptly and the van returns to normal immediatly. The dealer has found nothing unusual when reading the engine codes. I have replace the plugs, wires and coil at their suggestion but the problem persists. Has anyone had a similar problem or any suggestions? Thank you.
  • Hello:

    This is the 2.5L 5 cylinder, right?

    My somewhat-educated guess is that it is the Idle Control Valve (a.k.a. the Idle Stabilization Valve), part number W0133-1601935, $200 to $400, depending upon where you get it.

    InlineFive
  • Thanks for your reply. Yes it is the in line 5. The instant shut down occurs while I'm driving at highway speeds, not when I am at idle. In fact, it's never actually stalled.
    Would the idle control valve have an effect at that speed?
  • keybankerkeybanker Posts: 20
    I had the same the problem. The dealer replaced the throttle body and that did the trick.
  • Did your Eurovan momentarily loose power before it was repaired? Do you remember what the dealer did to determine what the problem was? Thanks.
  • I have a 2002 EuroVan camper with the left rear tail light out. The VW dealer has no idea how to change due to the camper cabinets etc. being in the way. Any simple solution to this problem?
  • keybankerkeybanker Posts: 20
    Yes, it did the same thing. It would momentarily stall or stumble. It also affected the idle speed (too slow). As you know, the engine has a computer and the dealer must have read a code to determine the problem.
  • zigzigzogzigzigzog Posts: 1
    I know it's been a while... do you still have the roof rack for sale?

    Thanks,

    Bruce
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