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Toyota Venza Accessories



  • fhffhf Posts: 19
    Has anyone used the cargo area power source to power their trailer light module instead of running a wire to the battery. I don't know why this would not work.
  • fhffhf Posts: 19
    As a follow-up, I just installed a Curt wiring kit on my 2013 Venza. The T-Connectors worked great and then I extended the power supply and ground wire to the passenger side of the car. Drilled a small hole in the storage bin to allow this two wire cable to go into the storage bin with enough length to then reach the cigarette lighter type accessory plug located on the passenger side of the back area. I then installed a cigarette lighter type plug on this wire. On the rare cases where I will need trailer lights, I will simply plug this into the accessory receptacle. This way the Curt black box will only have power on it when I want it in use. One disadvantage is that I'll only have trailer lights when the ignition is in the ACC or running position.
  • roadrunner70roadrunner70 Posts: 242
    edited August 2013
    FHF, thanks for the update.

    Any tips on getting the panels out of the way to get to the wires for the T connector?

    Also, exactly which curt kit did you use?

    I will be installing mine as soon as the temp goes down here in so. florida and I too will connect to the cig. lighter socket or use a plug like you did.

    I have towed boats and the only time I have used trailer lights when the engine is off, is loading and unloading at night. I am not towing a boat, but I want to put extra taillights on my bikes when they are on the carrier since they block them. If I do ever tow a boat, I might rewire to the battery, but for now, why bother.

    Thanks very much.
  • fhffhf Posts: 19
    I bought the Curt combination package through Amazon...Hitch # 13356 and Wiring Kit # 56079. I found some installation instructions on Google that helped. Steps are..Remove Storage remove Storage Bins remove plastic insert by gently pushing on the center, remove plastic nuts which you have to pull up on while remoce Hatch Sill Cover, found Google instructions which had a good picture of the sill cover upside down so you could see the location of the inserts that hold the cover down, I used a long small diameter screw driver coming from the interior side to gently pry up close to the inserts and they popped out easily. note however that some of the white inserts actually unattached from the cover and stayed in the car frame, which is no problem, just take a screw driver and pop out and slid back onto the open Side Panels, at the base of the panels is another black plastic insert.. but on both of these when I pushed the center to release the center stayed down and the only way to remove the insert was to push the center on down and out. This center piece was now inside the car frame never to be seen again so I used an old plastic screw from a similar device when I replaced, but I'm not sure these are actually needed. Now I removed the plastic cargo net hook by pushing in on the center while pulling off. Now I removed the metal cargo loops by unbolting. Finally I gently pulled the side panel open just enough to get into the tail light connectors. The tail light connectors release tab is on the car body side and the complete connector is hung on a nylon tad, so I lifted the connector upward off of the support tab which allowed me to rotate the connector to enable releasing the connector tab. The Curt T connector ends then easily inserted. I extended the ground and power cables and routed through the hatch sill body frame over to the passenger side and through a new hole in the right side storage bin. The trailer wires I routed up through the existing hole in the jack storage bin....All went easily...good luck.
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