Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Aerostar

17810121317

Comments

  • littlehlittleh Posts: 21
    Usually the side (fixed) windows leak. Apply an outdoor silicone will fix it.
    HIH,
    Mariot
  • littlehlittleh Posts: 21
    I was told the 93 to 96 are best years. If the engine doesn't burn oil, transmission isn't slip and no rust then it's a good investment. i would change all oils to Synthetic, Add a big Transmission cooler, In-Line filters . I hope yours is all power and dual AC. I paid my first 94 XLT AWD with 58K for $2400, the second 94 with same options with 156k for $1200 last April.
    Happy shopping,
    Mariot
  • littlehlittleh Posts: 21
    I would replace the thermostat (DO NOT USE NAPA) . I use Stant (165 degree), make sure you see the imprint "Made in USA" label. I was told that you not suppose to take the MAF apart to clean it. I would get a used MAF at the junk yard (same year).
    HIH,
    Mariot
  • Sounds like you got your money out of it. Rust could be from salt (winters are pretty harsh in Canada).

    I heard the Freestars are kind of junky. My friends son worked for Visteon and had problems assembling them when they first came out.

    Not too impressed with the quality of new cars in general. image
  • sunshine8sunshine8 Posts: 1
    hi I need my rack and pinion sterring replaced did you have to replace the whole thing or just repaired mine has a leak please let me know thank you
  • carter3carter3 Posts: 17
    It seems that you have started to fix the problem by using the hit or miss process. Go back to the basics, air-fuel-spark. You say that you changed the fuel filter and checked the fuel pump pressure. Did you check the fuel pressure regulator? The pressure may be good at the shop at an idle, but under a load? The diaphram in the regulator may be rotted or have a pin hole. You replaced the plugs, good. Now go one step deeper, check the coil and see if you get a strong spark, how is the spark at the plugs ? The coil and or the ignation module could be weak . Also check the cap, rotor and plug wires. On the module, it should be mounted on the passanger side on the inner finder, or it is part of the distributer depending on the year model. Make sure that the module and coil are grounded properly. Use good quality parts such a Ford or Napa.Double check your work, make sure that everything is tight, clean and secure, no loose wires. I had a lot of problems when I first get my Aerostar and it took me a while to work out the bugs, it is a good vehicle,but you have to stay on top of the maintence, think preventive maintence. Don't use the saying-if it ain't broke,don't fix it...Let us know if any of this is helpful.
  • bgood1bgood1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 4L extended Aerostar van, can some one tell me for sure what this can pull in lbs, in the form of a travel trailer, different dealers, different answers ????? info much appreciated !!!!! BGood
  • wut4wut4 Posts: 4
    The automatic hand brake adjuster needs to be "unloaded" (reset). How to do this is in any of the manuals for the Aerostar. It's best done with a helper with mechanical savvy. It can be done alone though. When you do the under car part, you will need to make a VERY strong pull to the rear of the hand brake cable where it joins the 2 rear brake cables just ahead of the frame cross brace in front of the rear axle. Then, while holding the cable back (takes lots of muscle) you will clamp a pair of vice grips onto the forward most visible part of the cable. That point is where the cable comes out of it's housing. The vice grips keep the cable in the full off position while you rest the hadle end. The details on what to do at the brake handle end are in the manual, as well as diagrams of the steps. Or, get the person who bled the brakes to do it (maybe for free) since this is the fix. What happens is that as the brakes wear, and you use the hand brake, the hand brake adjuster takes the slack out of the system. In time, and especially if your auto shoe adjusters are sticking (they all tend to), this hand brake adjuster has in fact made it impossible to close the yoke between the front and rear shoes to allow for the new full thickness brake shoe lining material. You probably had a bit of a snug fit putting the drums back on. This may not be the fix for your problem, but it is a common oversight. Good luck.
  • wut4wut4 Posts: 4
    Try cleaning the two door tracks with a toothbrush and then spray them with silicone grease. The tracks are at the inner edge of the step (with door open) and in the side of the body (with door closed). GET IT CLEAN before you thoroughly lube it. That fixed my 92 with 194,000. ALSO, the side window leaks can be fixed with silicone adhesive - applied to make sure some gets between the rubber molding and the body. Both these "problems" are garden variety Aerostar aging. If only keeping any car going were this easy and inexpensive.
  • wut4wut4 Posts: 4
    Message #287 has a possible fix for your sliding door (CLEAN and lube the tracks and the rollers). As for the wipers, take them off (they'll be parked on the plastic) and put them back on so they are "parked" about 1 1/2 to 2 inches up on the bottom edge of the glass (3.5 to 5.0CM). They will then sweep and park just fine.
  • wut4wut4 Posts: 4
    The rattle may be the front stabilizer bar end links. These are about $20 US each at Ford and about $8 each at NAPA. Another item that rattles (with miles/age) is the harmonic balancer that is at the front yoke of the drive shaft,]. This iron ring can split and then pull loose from it's rubber mount and flap about on slower bumpy stretches of road. Muffler and catalytic converter clamps are another possibility. Good luck.
  • dshaulldshaull Posts: 1
    My brother and I just changed the rear axle assembly on my 92 Aerostar because it was making an awful noise. The replacement parts came from a junked van (not sure of the year). My van was equipped with ABS but the "new parts" were not. Once we got it all back together the speedometer and cruise no longer work.

    Any thought on how to get the speedometer working again?

    Thanks
  • jwoll57jwoll57 Posts: 4
    I replaced the AC compressor (single unit only), evaporator drier and orifice on my 3.0 L. System was not leaking but after 132,000 miles the old compressor gave out (S. Texas weather too), My question is how cold is cold? I measured the maximum cold from the vent at 47 degrees with a thermometer. Normal cold at about 58. Outside temperature at about 89 degrees. Seems a little slow to cycle. Does anyone know the specs on
    the a/c for this model.What should air temp be at the vent? The compressor is a remanufactured part from Carquest. Is there a more powerful compressor they could have used? I paid a pretty penny for this job so I want to make sure they got it right while the fix is still under warranty.
  • jwoll57jwoll57 Posts: 4
    I regularly pull a 2500 lb. camper with a 3.0 L aerostar. That is with 6 passengers and fully loaded. Works well on the flat but uphill climbs you will be leading the parade, brother.

    jwoll
  • mtyremtyre Posts: 1
    We bought a used 94 Aerostar van recently to replace the 89 Aerostar van we had that had 260,000 miles on it (the transmission was going). When we put in a new battery it messed up the time on the clock, and we don't have the book with the instructions. The clock is part of the radio and there aren't any buttons on it that say anything about setting the time.

    Anyone know what combination of buttons to use to set the time?
  • bajabobbajabob Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. The pressure regulator may be bad. It is starting to look that way.

    Over the past seven years, I have kept my Aerostar in near new condition. Even replaced the axles and rebuilt the 8.5 differential. Installed two new Bosch O2 sensors, EGR valve, and many sensors before I traveled in it for two years. Installed 3/4 ton air shocks and pulled a small trailer through BAJA for over a year. The van runs great. Just seems starved for gas going up hill at 60 mph. In just the past few days it has started to starve for gas at idle so I am going to my friend's shop and put it on a dynotuner and a OBD II computer.

    Once again thanks for the input.
  • carter3carter3 Posts: 17
    I own a '93 w\ auto, 3.0litre with 250000 on the odometer, last month I installed a set of Bosch platinum 2 plugs. Since then the gas mileage turn bad. Before the Bosch plugs I was getting 21-22mpg. The Bosch plugs cut the mpg to 16-18. I replaced them with Motorcraft plugs and the mpg jumped up to 22-23. I it was not fun to replace them, but it can be done. The van still runs great and burns no oil, so maybe I'll get two more years out of it. More later on
  • gblackmangblackman Posts: 7
    Probably the same problem I had with my 93, though yours sounds more severe. The big stationary glass window seals can develop leaks around the rubber seals and run invisibly behind the interior trim into the floor. Fortunately, the repair is relatively simple. The interior trim on the offending window must come off. The glass itself is held in with nuts securing studs attached to the rubber seal. As all of mine were loose, I first tried just tightening them, but without success. You;ll probably have to remove the window to re-seal it. Just remove the nuts and press the glass out from the inside. Ford uses some sort of black "Zackempucky" as a sealer between the glass and metal. I did not try to remove this, just ran a bead of silicone caulk on the metal and reinstalled. No more leaks!
  • gblackmangblackman Posts: 7
    Don't know anything about the 4WD version, but my '93 2WD has been outstanding! 184,000 on it, owned for eight years now with no problems to speak of. I would advise buying a good trans cooler if you plan to do much towing. Soon after puchase, had problems with trans fluid everywhere when I would push the van while towing my 2200 lb boat at interstate speed. Trans never acted up, just fluid covering the entire bottom of the van, even up the tailgate, and the front of the boat! Took it in to the shop who insisted the trans had failed, but I did not believe as it was working perfectly otherwise. Finially found someone who knew enough or was honest enough to help. As the fluid was obviously scorched, he related that as the fluid heated it had expanded out an atmospheric vent on the trans and messed itself. Flushed the trans, cooler, and lines, changed the filter and added a large trans cooler in front of the condensor, behind the existing external trans cooler. No more problem in eight years and 80,000 miles, never did rebuild the trans and still works great. Have since towed cars through Smoky mountains without issue! Mine is only a 3.0L with highway gears and no towing package. Occasionally the factory springs would sag a little under load, so I added air shocks (Monroe MaxAir, Advance Auto Parts) which helped a lot. Good luck!
  • gblackmangblackman Posts: 7
    I am a professional HVAC service tech. "Black Death" is a term someone coined to describe the after-effects of a catastrophic compressor failure. The metal particulate released into the refrigerant stream and oil when the compressor self-destructs is circulated into the system by the pressure that the compressor created before it died. The black residue gets into everything it can before the pressures equalize and stops wherever it is. This can sometimes be more severe than others, depending on how much pressure differential was up when it died, the higher the pressure, the more extensive the contamination. This is not exclusive to Aerostars or even Fords. Most compressor manufacturers or rebuilders of all brands will not honor their warranty unless precautions are taken to remove all contamination, for if not removed, it will take out your new compressor as well. They usually insist on flushing of all components, replacement of the flow control orifice, and the addition of an in-line filter, preferably in the liquid line ahead of the orifice. Your tech will have to assume the worst and flush and clean everything. Unfortunately, on vans with rear A/C, flushing the long lines and second evaporator is essentially like cleaning up two passenger car systems and is very time consuming, though $2000 for a compressor changeout and system cleanup seems abusive. Shop around, but stay away from the "cheap fix". A compressor swap may work for a while, but will soon fail if precautions aren't taken.

    Insidentally, should you decide to repair, I suggest that you look a little deeper into why it failed in the first place. The Ford compressor of this vintage has a bad rep for failure, but my experience has shown them very dependable. My '93 has 184,000 miles on it, still running R12. The system has not been open since '98 when I replaced a leaking O ring. From what I've read from others, I surmise that inadequate air flow accross the condensor (in front of radiator) is more likely the problem. Low air flow results in increased head pressures that the compressor has to overcome and can significantly shorten it's life. Check to see that the cavity between the radiator and condensor is still sealed. Is the rubber seal between the radiator and crossmember still there? Is the gap between the radiator and condensor still seaked underneath? If these are missing, a trip to Home Depot or such for a window A/C weatherstrip kit will get you some square foam strips with which to seal the openings. Also, invest in a new fan clutch. I was amazed at the difference when I replaced mine. Even though I was experiencing no real engine cooling problems at the time, the A/C output was significantly better, especially around town. Good luck!
  • gblackmangblackman Posts: 7
    Very possbily is the MAF sensor causing the problem. My congratulations on finding these can often be cleaned instead of replaced, but sounds like you may be ready for a new one. The day/night thing can also be related to this. The purpose of the MAF is to relate to the computer just how much oxygen is in the air at the moment. Colder air is dense and has more oxygen, warm air has less. The MAF is one of the ways we can get away without the old carbuetor choke which would restrict the amount of air (and oxygen) until the engine warmed up. To a lesser extent, you will find the same thing happening with cool night air vs. a warm (or hot) day.

    The ECT code is probably just computer telling you that it has seen the coolant temperature outside the range it was expecting. You already told me that your thermostat is acting up. Probably not the stop leak but who knows? Spend a couple of bucks and get a new one. Sounds like you're right on target with your diagnosis, Good luck!
  • gblackmangblackman Posts: 7
    Check the trans cooler, could be leaking into the radiator.
  • gblackmangblackman Posts: 7
    My 93 has GVWR for different engine/axle combinations on the tire pressure chart on the front door post.
  • gblackmangblackman Posts: 7
    Does anybody know how to disconnect the factory heater hose quick connects at the heater core? I have the special tool "borrowed" from Autozone, but I can't even see the things buried on my '93 under all the other hoses. Looking at the tool doesn't give me a clue as to how they are made....
  • I have a 1992 3.0 aerostar. 90k miles. Was running great until about two months ago. When in the morning I would start it an it would surge from stalling to idle. If I accelerated for 10 seconds it would run fine the rest of the day. Last Sunday i started it
    It stalled out and wouldn’t start. It starts now but the engine runs really
    Rich. Black smoke out the exhaust. Does anyone know if there is a common?
    Problem like this out there, that usually turns out to be the oxygen sensor or throttle position sensor etc. Like to norrow it down if possible thanks
  • I have a 1992 xl . starts then runs rich. black smoke coming out of the exhaust then
    stalls. mech looked at it,hooked up a computer but couldn't determine what was
    causing the problem. It was developing this problem for two months. when I started
    it, the engine would surge from almost stalling to idle. If i gave it gas for 10 seconds
    it would run great the rest of the day. Last sunday it stalled after I started in the
    morning and now runs bad with black smoke and will not Idle. I know
    its one on the sensors just don't know which one. Have you had any engine
    problems like this. Need to figure out best place to start. the van only
    has 90k on it. thanks for any info
  • platinoplatino Posts: 2
    Hi,

    i have found my Ford Aerostar XLT (1987 - 3.0). in addition looks for I spare parts (steering wheel ect.) and accessories around the car to adorn know someone addresses of the accessory trade. does someone have information to a aerostar bodykit for me (source of supply)?

    -> like this:

    http://www.arcor.de/palb/alben/30/242530/1024_3333366532353562.jpg
    http://www.arcor.de/palb/alben/30/242530/1024_6366663438616134.jpg

    Thank you!

    Greeting Peter
  • aerofastaerofast Posts: 1
    i own a 1992 ford aerostar. the side sliding door is jammed and i need to remove it in order to fix the broken handle. does anyone know how to get the door open and off? thanks so much
  • gdmurfgdmurf Posts: 2
    I have a 93 Aerostar XLT minivan. Bought used with a trailer hitch. Want to start towing and looked under the rear end for the wiring. Notice that it appeared to have a dealer/factory installed tow package, wiring harness built in. Two plugs, one with four wires and one with two wires allready wired up and just sitting there. I'm looking for the jumper/cable that will connect into these existing plugs that will allow me to tow a trailer. Anyone have any info? One dealer told me some part numbers to look for are F29Z, 13A, or 576A. These mean anything to anyone? I'd like to avoid having to splice into the existing wires and running all new cables.

    TIA,
    Glenn
  • colinpcolinp Posts: 2
    On my 92 as I did not have a tool I had to destroy them to get them off. If you look at the smaller connectors on the hoses just above the engine where they connect to the metal pipes you will see the plastic clips that hold the connector in place. Squeezing these whit plastic clips releases the hose. Destroying the connector at the core means you now have a destroyed very expensive to replace 'Y' hose. Read on.

    At the heater core they were a knuckle busting process, very hard to get to but not impossible after other stuff is moved out of the way. As I could not reach them to properly disconnect them I broke / cut them to get them off. I replaced the 'Y' hoses most cheaply by buying a straight hose from the parts store with the large quick disconnect for the heater core end and making up a 'new' 'Y' hose by using 3 pieces of straight hose connected by a commercially available in-line 'Y' connector and hose clips from the parts store. I cut up the old 'Y' hose and re-used the piece with the smaller connector that connects to the metal pipes above the engine. Best to leave that end in place on the engine so as to not disturb the seal.

    Good luck!
Sign In or Register to comment.