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Ford Aerostar

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  • rileyjamesrileyjames Posts: 1
    I'm seriously considering buying a 1993 Ford Aerostar XLT 4WD Extended Passenger model. It has less than 100,000 miles on is going for $2400obo. It's in great shape, has one owner, and owner has all of the service records. Does Anyone know anything about this particular model is it very reliable? I used to own a 1992 Ford Taurus wagon and that thing was a money pit. I'm a little leery about buying a Ford but I hear Aerostars are pretty good vehicles. By the way, it also comes with the towing package. Does anyone know what the '93 towing package consists of? If I buy it I'm considering adding a tranny cooler, and an engine cooler. But if the towing package comes with those items I won't.
    Thanks for your help!
  • carter3carter3 Posts: 17
    I own a 93 Aerostar with 246000 mi. It is has a 3.0 liter w\auto. I had to purchase this vehicle because my Taurus died last year. The Aerostar had a lot of problems due to owner not caring. I had to replace the coil and ignation module to get it running. Both heater cores leaked so I disconnected both and by passed the front one. Ford wants over $70 each for the heater hoses and $60 for the front heater core, forget that ! The Ford heater hoses and core have those stupid quick disconnects on them. I went to Autozone and purchased a front heater core w\o the connectors for $26 and installed regular 5\8 in heater hose, it works just great. Auto zone carries the rear heater core, so I removed the factory hoses that run under the vehicle and replace them with regular heater hoses. I had to use two plastic "t's " to splice in the rear heater . It is a hard job, but take your time, it works great at about 1\3 the cost of using the Ford parts. I also discovered that a starter for a Mazda truck with the same engine costs $20 less than one listed for the van and it is the same part!!! The rear spark plugs can be removed and installed by reaching over the top of the engine and using a 1 in extinsion, again it is hard so you have to take your time. You can find many Aerostars in the Pick and Pull yard near your home, so parts are out there. I noticed that nobody wants to replace the engine because Ford recommends that the front sub frame be unbolted and the body raised. I have seen how engines are pulled at the yard, it can be removed if you take off the hood, grill, radiator, bumper and other various parts. So my engine will be replaced this summer, my red neck friends will help. I also have changed my headlights to the sealed beam set up off of a '90 and used the solid amber front turn signal lens, the original plastic headlights were cloudy and looked terrible. got to go now I'll check this site in a few days. NBC.
  • kencinflkencinfl Posts: 2
    Heya, I have a '95 Aerostar, big 6 cycl, auto (naturally). Getting some hesitation under acceleration...seemingly more during day than at night, but intermittent and unpredictable. My little hand-held computer gives me codes 116 (Eng.Coolant Sensor), 157 (MAF sensor voltage too low), 158 (MAF sensor voltage too high) <--- very odd, I know they contradict but it read those to me. Now, about 6 months ago I had a terrible time with extreme hesitation...so much so I couldn't go over 10mph. This happened just after I changed the alternator so I though maybe I messed up the computer and it had to take it's time to re-learn the engine. Not so (I think). It was my MAF sensor just on top of the air intake piece coming off of the air filter. Discovered this by sheer circumstance so don't read into that brilliant diagnosis. Very accessible, but funky screws (just took a hacksaw and cut a notch so flathead screwdriver would work fine). I took out the sensor and cleaned it very delicately with carb cleaner. Worked great...drove great. But now it appears to have come back, a bit differently and possibly not quite the same...but I re-cleaned it (delicately) anyway with no results. It stumbles on acceleration but then catches up and runs fine until the next episode...the check engine light comes on but then it appears to correct itself...the light goes off and no problems...until next episode. And again, more so during day than night. Could it be my MAF sensor? ECT sensor? <--- day vs. night as mentioned above, or any Wires? Anger of the Gods? I replaced my fuel filter about 2 years ago...don't live in an extreme environment but anything is possible.
    Next issue: My water temp guage fluctuates between the the letters of the word NORMAL...from O/R up to the beginning of the M and back down...almost as if my thermostat is opening and closing while I'm watching it...I recently put some stop leak in it because of a tiny little leak. Is the stop leak gummying up my thermostat? Any ideas?
    With limited funds and limited experience with a voltmeter...how can I figure out what is wrong? This just suddenly appeared and put a cloud on my week.
    Anyone who can help me on my stumbling problem and fluctuating temp guage problem...please respond.
    Help me!
  • kencinflkencinfl Posts: 2
    Yes...sorry for reply delay as I just saw your post (mine is dated 5-10-05,,,first time posting). I had to replace my left front light and lens (fender-bender). No auto parts people sell the lens as it is a dealer part, with the normal heavy price. So I went to a junk yard (when I replaced my alternator) and they simply pulled me a left front lens (and the alternator). It was very easy to replace as you simply unscrew the chrome strip frame and, pull off the old lens, replace the bulb (common part at parts stores or walmart), install the new lens, and screw it all back in. The lens was less than $40 but the actual price may vary from yard to yard. Don't go dealer...go junk yard if you can.
    If it is the wrap-around amber/clear light lens then go to a junk yard. If it is the actual little bulb you need then go to auro parts place...go to the bulbs section and look it up in the book they have...it is a very inexpensive and common part.
    KenCinFL
  • carter3carter3 Posts: 17
    First, the quality of the computer you used should be questioned, because you receive two different codes,I suggest that you have the computer scanned by some one with a more complex scanner . Some machinics may charge up to $40 to do so with out repairs. Clearing the codes can be a process of elimination since one sensor can and will effect others. Remember, to clear the codes, disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Also clean the battery cables ends, this can effect the computer. I also have to work on a budget, some times you have to bite the bullet and spend the money on quality parts and mechanics. I have learned to buy Ford or Napa electrical parts, I can't afford to be stranded because I wanted to save $ for the cheaper stuff. Also my Aerostar temp guage flexes like yours, it is normal because of the therostat opening.Watch the guage closely. As long as it stays in the norman range its ok. Please don't use stop leak for a perment fix, find the leak and take care of it properly, if you plan to keep the vehicle it is worth it.
  • carter3carter3 Posts: 17
    I own a '93 w\ 3.0 litre and automatic, the vehicle has 248000 miles. The problem is that there is a transmission leak somewhere. I cleaned underneath real good, but I can not locate the leak.I removed the dust cover to the torque converter and checked both front and rear seal,both are clean and dry, some of the pan bolts were a little lose so I tightened them up,and drove it for a few days but still it leaks. I am sure that it is the trans because I have to add fluid every few days, all the other fluids are full and checked regularly. Where else can I check ? The trans was rebuilt about nine months ago. If anyone has a suggestins I would appricate it. I will check back in a few days. Thanks.
  • bajabobbajabob Posts: 2
    Had this problem before. Engine cutting out going uphill in high gear at 50 mph+. Warm or cold. Runs great when it is flat. Changed fuel filter, had fuel pump checked, new O2, new plugs, ran a ODB test and found nothing.
    Last time this happened, I took the car to a mechanic he told me he only checked the fuel pump pressure. It was fine. The problem went away for 18 months for no known reason we can pinpoint. Now it is back.
    If I turn off overdrive and put the gas pedal nearly to the floor to rev up the engine on the freeway, it runs fine. It almost seems like the engine is flooding.
    Are there any sensors that sense whether the van is level? I can't tell if the car is flooding or starving.
    A FORD Dealer mechanic wanted to change the plugs for $500.00. I had just changed them.
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • plowboy34plowboy34 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where the expansion valve is on a 93 A/Star??
  • littlehlittleh Posts: 21
    I told that it's complicated to swap a RWD to an AWD because the sensors, transmission housing, computer chips (93 vs 94, 3.0 L vs 4.0 L). If I were you sale the 93 and get a rebuil AWD transmission (around $700) plus labor.
    HIH,
    Mariot
  • littlehlittleh Posts: 21
    Have you check the transmission fluid level?
    Mariot
  • littlehlittleh Posts: 21
    Usually the side (fixed) windows leak. Apply an outdoor silicone will fix it.
    HIH,
    Mariot
  • littlehlittleh Posts: 21
    I was told the 93 to 96 are best years. If the engine doesn't burn oil, transmission isn't slip and no rust then it's a good investment. i would change all oils to Synthetic, Add a big Transmission cooler, In-Line filters . I hope yours is all power and dual AC. I paid my first 94 XLT AWD with 58K for $2400, the second 94 with same options with 156k for $1200 last April.
    Happy shopping,
    Mariot
  • littlehlittleh Posts: 21
    I would replace the thermostat (DO NOT USE NAPA) . I use Stant (165 degree), make sure you see the imprint "Made in USA" label. I was told that you not suppose to take the MAF apart to clean it. I would get a used MAF at the junk yard (same year).
    HIH,
    Mariot
  • Sounds like you got your money out of it. Rust could be from salt (winters are pretty harsh in Canada).

    I heard the Freestars are kind of junky. My friends son worked for Visteon and had problems assembling them when they first came out.

    Not too impressed with the quality of new cars in general. image
  • sunshine8sunshine8 Posts: 1
    hi I need my rack and pinion sterring replaced did you have to replace the whole thing or just repaired mine has a leak please let me know thank you
  • carter3carter3 Posts: 17
    It seems that you have started to fix the problem by using the hit or miss process. Go back to the basics, air-fuel-spark. You say that you changed the fuel filter and checked the fuel pump pressure. Did you check the fuel pressure regulator? The pressure may be good at the shop at an idle, but under a load? The diaphram in the regulator may be rotted or have a pin hole. You replaced the plugs, good. Now go one step deeper, check the coil and see if you get a strong spark, how is the spark at the plugs ? The coil and or the ignation module could be weak . Also check the cap, rotor and plug wires. On the module, it should be mounted on the passanger side on the inner finder, or it is part of the distributer depending on the year model. Make sure that the module and coil are grounded properly. Use good quality parts such a Ford or Napa.Double check your work, make sure that everything is tight, clean and secure, no loose wires. I had a lot of problems when I first get my Aerostar and it took me a while to work out the bugs, it is a good vehicle,but you have to stay on top of the maintence, think preventive maintence. Don't use the saying-if it ain't broke,don't fix it...Let us know if any of this is helpful.
  • bgood1bgood1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 4L extended Aerostar van, can some one tell me for sure what this can pull in lbs, in the form of a travel trailer, different dealers, different answers ????? info much appreciated !!!!! BGood
  • wut4wut4 Posts: 4
    The automatic hand brake adjuster needs to be "unloaded" (reset). How to do this is in any of the manuals for the Aerostar. It's best done with a helper with mechanical savvy. It can be done alone though. When you do the under car part, you will need to make a VERY strong pull to the rear of the hand brake cable where it joins the 2 rear brake cables just ahead of the frame cross brace in front of the rear axle. Then, while holding the cable back (takes lots of muscle) you will clamp a pair of vice grips onto the forward most visible part of the cable. That point is where the cable comes out of it's housing. The vice grips keep the cable in the full off position while you rest the hadle end. The details on what to do at the brake handle end are in the manual, as well as diagrams of the steps. Or, get the person who bled the brakes to do it (maybe for free) since this is the fix. What happens is that as the brakes wear, and you use the hand brake, the hand brake adjuster takes the slack out of the system. In time, and especially if your auto shoe adjusters are sticking (they all tend to), this hand brake adjuster has in fact made it impossible to close the yoke between the front and rear shoes to allow for the new full thickness brake shoe lining material. You probably had a bit of a snug fit putting the drums back on. This may not be the fix for your problem, but it is a common oversight. Good luck.
  • wut4wut4 Posts: 4
    Try cleaning the two door tracks with a toothbrush and then spray them with silicone grease. The tracks are at the inner edge of the step (with door open) and in the side of the body (with door closed). GET IT CLEAN before you thoroughly lube it. That fixed my 92 with 194,000. ALSO, the side window leaks can be fixed with silicone adhesive - applied to make sure some gets between the rubber molding and the body. Both these "problems" are garden variety Aerostar aging. If only keeping any car going were this easy and inexpensive.
  • wut4wut4 Posts: 4
    Message #287 has a possible fix for your sliding door (CLEAN and lube the tracks and the rollers). As for the wipers, take them off (they'll be parked on the plastic) and put them back on so they are "parked" about 1 1/2 to 2 inches up on the bottom edge of the glass (3.5 to 5.0CM). They will then sweep and park just fine.
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