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Ford Aerostar



  • aeroman1aeroman1 Posts: 6
    Found the problem. Under the hood on the L/H side there is a black plastic cooling connector block, which also has a divertor valve, (which looks like a mini butterfly valve if your conversant with parts of a carburetter) to regulate the coolant (heat) flow in the heater core/rad.There are 4 hoses connected to it & there is a bell shaped valve attached to it with a plastic pipe plugged into one end of this valve.
    I just bridged this block (effectively removing & bypassing this little refinement). No leaks now & the heater runs fine without it. The valve is probably there ( I'm only guessing this) to reduce flow in the heater core & prevent cavitation or un-necessary flow from gradually damaging the heater core & eventually leaking.

    ATB Aeroman1 :shades: :) :)
  • and the speedometer moves wildly.

    I replaced the ABS/speed sensor in the differential. that helped for the first start engine stop engine cycle and then the problem returned after the next time I start the car and travel faster than 60 mph.
  • gbcatgbcat Posts: 1
    '91 Aero V6-4.0L, 140K mi - stalls both while idling and cruising; replaced all sensors(MAP, O2, throttle position switch, etc). Also replaced ignition control module, coil, fuel pump, spray cleaned injectors, and complete tune-up. No luck. As stalling is usually preceded by AM/FM cutting out for one or two seconds --- beginning to focus on electrical cause. Understand electrical issues are difficult and expensive to diagnose. Would appreciate any suggestions to help save this old family friend.
  • I found the problem, it was the speedometer module in the instrument cluster. I got one from a wrecking yard for 16 and the car works fine.

    the mod must take the signal from the speed sensor and convert into MPH. It must then take that info and send it to the eec which uses it to shift the transmission and adjust inputs for the engine.
  • If you haven't already I suggest you get a copy of a good detailed wiring diagram and then find out what the radio and the engine have in common. I ordered a manual on cd from someone on ebay 2weeks ago and it has yet to arrive in the mail, so I am reluctant to suggest ebay as a source. If I get the manual I will look and see if I can determine the connection between the radio and the engine.

    If I find something out I will post.

    good luck.
  • whitbmawhitbma Posts: 1
    Check the radiator fan clutch. It is supposed to "engage"
    when the air coming from the radiator is too hot. It engages and drives the fan at the same speed as the water pump. When it is not engaged, it just spins freely. When the engine is at idle and the a/c is running, the fan clutch should engage after a few minutes. When it does, the amount of air blowing through the radiator fan shroud should greatly increase. You can even hear more of a roar as it engages. When you shut off the engine when it is really hot, the fan should be hard to turn. A bad clutch will allow the fan to spin quite freely. The clutches tend to leak the fluid out on the radiator side. I think my clutch failed about 140,000 miles. The engine temp would increase when at a stoplight with the a/c going full blast.
    Not a hard job. By the way, is the fans shroud still intact? A partially clogged radiator could cause a similar problem.
  • jimmj43jimmj43 Posts: 17
    I had this problem on my Pontiac and was able to trace the problem to burned/corroded contact points on a firewall-mounted relay. Those dropping resistors (that look like springs) get more blame than they deserve. 99 times out of 100, if the "springs" aren't physically broken, they're fine. The relay I mentioned was in the electrical line just BEFORE the resistors: Power source/battery>fusebox>switch(s)>RELAY>resistors>fan motor. I removed the relay, removed the cover, then used 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper to clean/polish the obviously-charred contact points. Reassembled & good as new!
  • jimmj43jimmj43 Posts: 17
    The problem began as intermittent. It would go for weeks/months with no problem. One day, no start - ignition/spark absent. A few hours later it might start & run fine - for days. One day it would start fine to run several stop-and-shop-and-go errands, then 2 hours later no go. Hot-vs-cold makes no apparent difference. I'm pretty good tracing electrical problems, but I'm not so hot at making myself smaller, into an undersized oriental, so I can reach into all the nooks and crannys Ford so GENEROUSLY allowed access to! (Think: inside access panel) My next move appears to be to remove the distributor so I can bench-test the ignition module it contains, because the problem has now become permanent. So far it appears that I losing more voltage than I should in tracing from point to point. The instructions I'm following say the reading should be no less than 10% of the MEASURED battery voltage. This leads me to believe I'm faced with a loose or corroded connection, or maybe a wire that's been partially worn through. arameters=026

    Thanks in advance.
  • dunedunedunedune Posts: 1
    Hi also still have a 94 aerostar and love it/ Have never had any major problems except some electrical. Horn went out,, cruise went out and airbag lite flashes but I can live with that. Only replsced a heater hose and thermosta so far.

    But the big problem is my slidingside door. Had to replace the latch assembly and have done this but can not get it to engage the pin so the latches will close. works when I have it off the door and have reinsatlled it 2x with no luck

    any help would be appreciated.
  • taurus1234taurus1234 Posts: 7
    Another reason could be that the blades on the impeller for the water pump have worn away. This is what happened to me after my Aerostar had 180,000 miles on it. I changed the fluids, flushed the radiator, changed the clutch and thermostat and the car still over heated. Then I removed the water pump and found that the impeller was nothing more than a disk.
  • popatoppopatop Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Aerostar with a 3.0L engine, it has been running rough for some time now so I finally decided to replace the plugs and wires. Bad idea!!!! I started the engine when done and it sounded like a VW Bug. Checked the wires and remembered why you are supposed to do them one at a time. Put them on right, it will not start. Put them back the way I did it originally, it will not start. I decided to put my timing light on it but my timing light doesn't seem to work either----BAD LUCK. Can someone tell me if they know how to check the static timing without pulling the front cover, as this is a distributorless engine? The engine has over 200k miles on it.
  • bugaloobugaloo Posts: 1
    I have a 93 xlt with a 4.0, 2 times now when starting the motor it made a "poof" sound and blew the vaccum hose's off on the back drivers side of the motor. it happen's about once a month. what could be causing this ?
  • jimmj43jimmj43 Posts: 17
    Go to the AutoZone helpsite: arameters=026

    It's as good a place to find free, detailed info as I've found. It includes step-by-step procedures and has more (and far better) diagrams than any of the Clymer or Haynes manuals.

    Good luck, and please report back what you find.
  • I have 245,000 miles so far with no major problems. I run my vehicles pretty hard and the 1995 AWD Ext van takes everything I can dish out and comes back for more. The gas mileage is kinda bad to me ,but it could be the way I drive it. I have dual exhausts, 18" wheels and in dash TV/DVD. I get only 12mpg most of the time. Out of town trips are about 18 - 20 mpg. :shades:
  • aero91staraero91star Posts: 2
    I just bought a 91 aerostar, it is elect. 4WD, extended cab. But my antilock break light stays on (sometimes), also my 4wheel drive light keeps blinking, it will blink three times in a row and sometimes four times in a row. Does someone know what this means?

    :confuse: :confuse:
  • littlehlittleh Posts: 21
    Why pay when you can get it free? Go to:
    I understand that it is suspended at this moment (Run up to it quota limit) but next month.
  • jason76jason76 Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Aerostar with 135,000 miles on it and I'm having this problem with it. The other day it ran fine then I decided to clean the engine. I've always kept my engine clean but I don't clean it all the time. Like once every few months or so I would clean the engine.

    This time after I cleaned it, It wont start up just by turning the ignition switch. I would have to step down on the pedal and then turn the ignition switch. After that it starts up and idles fine like nothing has happened. But thats not all. I noticed the it wont go into overdrive unless I floor it and it will stay in overdrive as long as I keep climbing speed. And while all of this is going on the Check Engine light keeps turning on and off.

    I unhooked the battery to maybe reset the computer but I don't think it will do any good. I have it unhooked now and haven't tried it yet.

    Anybody knows what could be the problem? Thanks.

  • dfreeborndfreeborn Posts: 1
    I had the same issue on my 96. I tried adjusting the latch and replacing the pin to no avail.
    Had the dealer check it and they did the same.
    On the return to the dealership they found that the top track had cracked and required replacment. After replacement it works fine.
  • joeirish15joeirish15 Posts: 3
    For all of us Ford Aerowstar owners I have a website to go to and possibly discover solutions to your problems:
    Click on the year and follow the directions to the place you engine, electrical, etc.
    Good luck.....
  • fredewahlfredewahl Posts: 1
    Could someone advice me on where to get drivers side internal panel trim piece for the electric window controls?
    Part shows HP 1342 F29B-14A563 on inside. This hold the
    electric window switches and the door lock switches.

    just to add to the forum: I found a source of push-pins
    for the Ford door interiors: Imperial part 37035. box
    of 50 for about $19.

    thanks for any help.
    Fred E Wahl
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