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2011 Hyundai Sonata



  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,630
    Obviously, no one in their right mind (individual or insurance company) would pay more to repair a car than the car would be worth after it was repaired.

    They don't. It only takes an estimated repair cost of 70% of the car's value to total it. Funny how they never mention the owner has the right to buy the car back for its salvage value.

    But yes, time to go back to the Sonata and its seamless dashboard. ;)
  • mil001mil001 Posts: 5
    Still only about 800 miles on the 2011 GLS. Took a 200 mile trip yesterday (400 miles, there and back). Using the built-in MPG readout, on the way there, I did great (pretty hefty tailwind). 37.3MPG (95% highway, 5% city). On the way back (without resetting), I ended up at 34.7MPG total for the 400 miles (into the wind!!). Pretty good for a barely broken in engine. I'm really happy with the miles. I drove it carefully to see what I could get. Usually about 5-9 over the speedlimit (mostly 70mph speedlimit, so I was doing anywhere from 70-79).

    Really happy with the MPG so far.
  • I did it today.

    click up or down on the tune arrows (left of the volume nob).
  • Loving my 2011 limited!!!

    I bought the GAP insurance and did not get the extended coverage (10 years or 100,000 miles).

    Do I need the GAP? We usually don't buy stuff like this but the dealer made us feel like idiots for not getting it. We have 20 more days to cancel.

    Also the extended warranty was $1400. Do you think with all the new features on this car that this might be worth it?

  • syitalian25syitalian25 Posts: 303
    The Gap insurance is almost never worth it unless you really plan to do 10,000 miles a year and keep it for all 10 years. How many problems over $1400 are likely to happen between 60K and 100K miles that are not covered under warranty? Not many. Why don't you just invest the $1400 into something that builds a little interest, if you use it on the car you've lost nothing - if you don't use it you are putting your money to work in the mean time.
  • Thanks for the thoughts.

    I forgot to mention we bought it (not lease) and ended up not putting anything down since it was only 2.9% financing. The GAP was $750. It didn't feel right getting it (we never buy warranies on things) but like I said the dealer made it sound like it was definilty needed.

    with this updated info do you think we should still cancel it?
  • denp3denp3 Posts: 99
    Does the Limited have the external amplifier and sub woofer.
    I have a hold on a Limited coming in to my dealer.
  • syitalian25syitalian25 Posts: 303
    How many miles do you do a year and how long do you anticipate keeping the car?
  • I do about 10-12,000 a year. I usually keep my cars for 10+ years.
  • yes it does. The sound is awesome!!! I really like the HD radio. What a difference once the HD kicks in for basic radio.
  • denp3denp3 Posts: 99
    I assume that is the radio without the nav?
  • Yes without the Nav. It is the dimension speakers.
  • syitalian25syitalian25 Posts: 303
    I'd consider keeping the warranty for $750 then as long as there aren't too many clauses where they can get out of replacing things. Because in 8 years if the car has 80000 miles on it, that's when things could start to go in the interior. Or you could turn that $750 into $1000 and hope nothing costs more than that to fix. It's a gamble either way.
  • shot_mosshot_mos Posts: 24
    I work for an insurance company, so I am really getting a kick out of most of these replies.

    Oops. Sorry. I have been an insurance adjuster for auto damage, theft, and fire for almost 10 years now.


    1) Higher Deductibles are the norm these days. I handle approximately 135 claims a month. I've dealt with people who have $100 deductibles, up to $1000. The average is usually $500.

    2) The higher the repair costs...the high your premiums go. This is true, to a sense. Thankfully (?) since cars depreciate, your insurance base cost goes down from year to year as your vehicle gets older.

    3) The higher the repair cost, the easier it is for the insurance company to take your car from you (i.e. "total" it) even though the damage is relatively minor. . This is the most illogical thing I've seen posted since 10 am today.

    Three ways to total a vehicle - a) cost of repair is more than the value of the vehicle; b) manufacturer states that a component cannot be repaired or replaced; or c) it could be repaired, but potential safety issues outweigh the repair (like rollovers). Seriously, you do think that insurance companies can't wait to total a vehicle?

    4) ... with just enough damage (based on inflated estimates I suspect) to total it. They got a lot of expensive parts out of that deal; made out quite well I am sure.

    Unlikely. I guess the "they" you mention is the insurance company? Well geez, after the tow bill, and the storage fees, then the other tow bill, and after we paid the ACV (actual cash value) for your vehicle, and then after we sold it at the salvage auction, the insurance company is lucky to get 20-30% of what was paid out.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,598
    GAP insurance covers the difference you owe on the loan vs the actual cash value of the vehicle if it is a total loss. Other than a deduction for high milage in determining ACV, the number of miles you drive per year has nothing to do with GAP insurance.

    I think syitalian confused GAP insurance with extended warrantees.

    If you bought with little or no money down you probably should have GAP insurance. However, you should also check to see what your auto insurance company would charge you for this. It is normally (at least in CT) far less than the dealer charges for GAP insurance.

    We bought a new '05 Sonata, $17,770 OTD with $7,000 down and did not take GAP Insurance. We also bought a new '07 Sonata, $18,189 OTD with $2500 down and did take GAP insurance through the car insurance policy...cost about $60 per year. When you're no longer upside down on the car loan, you can drop that coverage from your car insurance does not run the length of the car loan.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,630
    edited March 2010
    Three ways to total a vehicle - a) cost of repair is more than the value of the vehicle; ...

    What I get a kick out of is someone who's been an insurance adjuster for 10 years and doesn't know the rules that insurance companies follow to determine whether to "total" a vehicle. ;)

    When I get a call from the body shop that my car is easily repairable and the damage is well under the 70% of ACV needed total it, then there's a visit from the adjuster from the other driver's insurance company (which is paying for my car's repairs) and all of a sudden, my vehicle is over the 70% of ACV limit by a few dollars (and I'm told I have no choice but to turn the vehicle over to the insurance company), when 90% of the body panels are perfect, interior is perfect, drivetrain is undamaged (and has low mileage to boot on a very popular car), and even the tires are nearly new... yes, I begin to wonder whether insurance companies prefer to total a vehicle. If totaling a vehicle is such a bad deal for the insurance company... why not just repair it when the damage is only 71% of the ACV?
  • meikmeik Posts: 63
    If you bought with little or no money down you probably should have GAP insurance. However, you should also check to see what your auto insurance company would charge you for this.

    That is what I was about to say. I checked my insurance cost before I picked mine up at the dealer and added GAP insurance to my premium. When I was at the dealer to pick up my car, they asked me about GAP insurance and I said I already added it to my premium. I didn't hear how much they would charge for it. My premium went up by about $3.50 a month.
  • shot_mosshot_mos Posts: 24
    edited March 2010
    Different insurance companies use different valuations to total a vehicle.

    When I wrote "cost of repair is more than the value of the vehicle" I suspect that I should have been more elaborate.

    Cost of repair includes all costs associated with repairing the vehicle, including, but not limited to, rental expense. You also must consider expected salvage returns for the sale of the vehicle, expected or potential supplements, tow and storage bills, etc.

    Here's an example:

    link title

    This beautiful 2010 Sonata has an ACV: $27,062 USD, but the repair cost is only $15,790 USD. Oh my gosh! This isn't a 70% ACV limit! That's only 58% That #$(#($ insurance company! It's not that bad, just slap some bondo on that fender and cut off the airbag, right? :sick:

    And, if you're financing a vehicle, often the finance company won't allow you to keep the salvage, because 1) they want to maximize their return, and 2) if you stop paying your note, they don't want to repo a piece of junk.

    (gotta get back on topic)

    I wish the '11 Sonata had cigarette lighter/electrical aux in the center console or on the back of the console, for the passengers in the back.

    Anyone have any leather seat cleaning guides or timelines? Just planning in advance, no idea when to use saddle soap, etc., on the seats.
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 1,623
    Awesome mpg!!
  • tenpin288tenpin288 Posts: 804
    edited March 2010
    Here's an interesting article on the 2011 Sonata. (note: disregard the mistake in their headline. The article is about the 2011 model, not the 2010.)

    Sonata boosts Hyundai into sedan pantheon
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