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Chevy Venture

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Comments

  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Hello,

    To fix a broken wire: splice & tape is minimal repair, you could also solder or use crimp style connectors.

    If your high mounted LED light works, it means that the brake switch and the wire all the way from the front to the back are good. This is good...

    According to the wiring diagram there is a white wire that feeds all 3 - you need to find where the white wire that feeds the top LED connects to the other 2 white wires that go to the lower stop lamps. It may take a little detective work but I think you;ll find your problem there...the spot is very likely up high where the LED is...take the LED off and look behind it, it might be right there...Once you find it, repair it and you should be good to go...good luck, post back, I'll keep an eye out...

    John :)
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Thanks dude,

    I will research this tomorrow morning, This was my last effort before taking it in. I enjoy doing things myself until they reach the point that I don't know enough. It really sounds like you know you stuff inside and out, thanks again! I will let you know how things go.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    If you like working on the Venture then the Haynes book for it is a must...check it out...was the best 20 bucks I ever spent...some things on the Venture are a little quirky and different than what you're used to, helps to have a reference book.

    Let me know how you do.... ;)
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Did a little extra research and found a TSB for the problem youre having - apparently there's also an issue with the connectors for each of the brake lights. Here's the TSB:

    TSB #03-08-42-007A - (Jan 9, 2004)
    Tail Lamp/Brake Lamp Bulb Inoperative (Replace Bulb and/or Circuit Board)
    2000-2004 Chevrolet Venture
    2000-2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette
    2000-2004 Pontiac Montana
    Revised to add model years (from 03-08-42-007).

    Condition
    Some customers may comment that the upper left hand or right hand tail lamp/brake lamp bulb is inoperative.

    Cause
    This condition may be the result of moisture entering the lamp housing and changing the bulbs resistance, causing the bulb to burn out and or melting the circuit board.

    Correction
    Replace the burned out bulb and the circuit board if needed. Apply dielectric lubricant or dielectric grease to the left hand and right hand tail lamp bulb terminals.

    Parts Info
    Part # Description
    12377900 (10953529 in Canada) Dielectric Lubricant
    12345579 Dielectric Silicone Grease
    12533713 Circuit Board-Left
    12533714 Circuit Board-Right
    9441839 Bulb
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Didn't have much luck this morning, decided to take it into the shop. I don't have alot of the tools required to work on electronics so I figured I bring it in and see what they could find.
    Thanks again for all you info, I will let you know what the verdict is.
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    The culprit was the bulbs, I guess when I investigated it I didn't do a good enough job. Oh well $40 bucks later the problem is fixed. Thanks again and if I have any questions I will be sure to give you a ring!
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I'm glad it was something fairly painless... :)

    John
  • viscernviscern Posts: 5
    I have a 98 venture that I cannot read the ECU codes. I have taken the van to 4 different autoparts stores and each handheld machine will not recognize a connection to the ECU plug.

    I checked fuses. Any ideas? Am I missing something?
  • chaseschases Posts: 41
    I know you said that you checked the fuses but...

    Mine did this too. Check the aux power fuse and the cig lighter fuse. The computer portion of the ECU is powered through one of these. I found part of a staple in mine that was blowing the fuse.
  • I see many posts on this topic and many guesses. Does anyone know exactly what the problem is that creates this whistling noise and exactly what the solution is. Cross wind is an issue.

    thanks!
  • Can I get some real-world gas mileage you all are getting while towing 3000-3500 pounds with the Montana/Venture/Silhouette (with the towing package) please?

    I just got a Honda Odyssey and hooked up my 3500 pound travel trailer to it and got a SHOCKING 9 miles per gallon! I really thought I'd get 14-15.

    I welcome any information; I am really needing this info because I don't want to change vehicles AGAIN if the mileage is the same as the Odessey.

    We are on the road right now! We started out in PA and started our trek to the Pacific coast. The mileage was so bad with the trailer, we dropped off the 3300 pound trailer in Ohio at a storage facility because our trip was going to cost $2400 in gas alone because of the 9 mpg.

    Thanks everyone! -Tony
  • viscernviscern Posts: 5
    I've pulled an older pop-up camper a few times with my 98 venture (I had a tranny cooler installed also). The camper is around 2500 to 3000. Normally I get 28mpg on the highway but with the camper it drops down to the upper teens or lower 20's. When I pull the camper I use a higher octane gas such as 91 or 93. I think the octane difference helps with hills, takeoff and such.
  • eskramereskramer Posts: 3
    My ABS light came on when I was having problems starting the van ('98 venture). Long story short...I took the cables off the battery and cleaned them very well with baking soda and reconnected them. Believe it or not, the ABS light went off and has stayed off. Now if I can only get that damn "check engine light" to go off...
  • eskramereskramer Posts: 3
    My wife has an extended '98 venture and the front suspension has been making some real loud noises lately. I jacked it up and to my surprise, the sway bar was broken in half near the drivers side tire! Broken in half! I called 3 neighbors over to look at it and not one had ever seen a swaybar break like that.

    Has anyone out there ever had this happen before? We have 125k on it, and "knock on wood", we haven't really had any other problems with it. I also have to replace the outer tie rod on the passengers side.
  • Took my wifes '05 in to check what she called 'rattling' coming from the rear of the vehicle. I drove it, and it only happened when the rear wheels were going over bumps. Mechanic says he cleaned out some rocks from off the frame, everything else was stable. Driving it home, heard the same sounds. I got underneath it myself, and the only thing i notice is some kind of tubing with a spring-like thing (sorry for the rookie lingo, not too technical here). It comes off the rear cylinder, connects to the frame by some clips. Moving this or slightly tapping it almost recreates the sound I heard while driving. What exactly is this tubing for and could this be the problem? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Hi Joey,

    I have no idea what a rear cylinder is...do you mean the rear shocks? Do you mean a rear wheel cylinder? Muffler or resonator? I suppose the fuel tank might be considered a "fuel cylinder" although I don't think I'd describe it as cylindrical in shape?

    If you can point us in the right direction, I'm sure we can figure out what's rattling...where is it located? Near a wheel? Near the muffler or tailpipe? Side? Center? Low/high? If you think the loose tubing (whatever it might be) is making the rattling, temporarily secure it to something with duct tape and drive it around. If the rattle is gone, you found the culprit...otherwise, hopefully with a better description of what's rattling, we'll figure out how to make it stop...nothing more annoying than a rattle in a car....
  • Hey dude, thanks, and sorry at the same time...
    the cylinder I am talking about is right behind (or connected to) the rear wheel - a brake drum possibly? The tubing connects right to that, so maybe its some kind of break line, but I'm not sure, since I've never dealt with them before. The rattling noise is definitely coming from the rear of the vehicleAnyway, the duct tape idea will work to check it out. Once again, apologies for being unclear, and many thanks for any and all info. -jp
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    No need to apologize, just trying to help... :)

    Sounds like you're talking about a brake line...you might want to follow it a little bit and see where it leads you. You might find a broken clip..

    Also, don't forget to check on the other side as well. There is a line that goes to each wheel and I bet that if the other side had a broken clip it would make the very same noise. Once again, follow it and see where it leads you, you might find the problem.

    Let me know how you make out with the duct tape test. If need be, I'll lay under our Venture and look for stuff that could be causing the noise...anything metal bouncing off of anything else metal could be causing it as well.
  • 03jeep03jeep Posts: 1
    I just had the same thing happen to my 99 Venture. It was making a clunking noise and I had a mechanic friend look at it and he said the sway bar was busted in half. He said the same thing, he had never seen anything like it before. I was wondering how much the part was to replace it. I have to start calling tomorrow for prices. Thanks DJ
  • qinaelqinael Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I'm having some problems with my 2003 Venture. I jump started someone a few nights ago, and ever since, when attempting to start the engine, it's acted like it's had a problem getting enough power from the battery to turn over. This continued getting worse (having a harder time starting) for the next few days, until yesterday it just stopped starting altogether.

    Now, the lights will come on inside; the dash will light up, headlights work, etc. But when I attempt to start the engine all this dies / drains, and instead of starting there is a clicking sound followed by a faint "churning" or whizzing sound.

    I've cleaned the battery contacts, made sure the battery is charged to full, tried jump starting it, etc. and nothing has been successful so far. I *think* I located the starter behind the radiator and near the bottom, and jiggled the apparent contacts there to make sure they weren't loose - nothing there, either.

    I do not know how to proceed from here, so anyone with an idea / experience would be appreciated. Thanks.

    Update: I tried pulling all of the fuses that had to do with Ign or Battery, then waiting about 30 seconds and re-inserting them. When I tried to start the engine, the same thing as before happened, except I noticed that when I turned the key to the "on" position, there was the churning sound I mentioned earlier. I did this a few times to test it - now the van acts as if the battery is completely dead; no lights, dash, anything of the sort.

    Also, now, when I turned the key to "off" it makes the churning sound for a few seconds awhile the speedometer and other gauges twitch around slightly, before falling limp as the churning sound ends.
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