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Chevy Venture

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Comments

  • Let me know; I'll post one.

    FYI, I only take one side apart at a time so I can reference the one that's still together. Check your other side if you haven't taken it apart.

    -Tony
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Tony,

    I did get it back together after referencing the other side. Just one other question, I also replaced the cylinder and a section of brake line. One finished I bled the one side only and when finished I still don't have any brake pedal, do I have to bleed all four tires or just the back two?
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Tony,

    Working on my control arm bushings today, I can only get the horizontal bushing 3/4 of the way in, any suggestions???
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Working on my bushing today and I can only get the Horizontal bushing in 3/4 of the way. Any advise or suggestions on how to get it in the rest of the way?????
  • You probalby have to bleed all 4 brakes if any air has gotten into the system. I am not a mechanic but I do have the shop manual and it says in there that you DO need to bleed all four if any air got into the system. BUT it also says that "if a brake line was disconnected only at a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylindar must be bled," ...so maybe you're OK there.
  • I can't help with the bushings but here's the section in the manual on INSTALLING the control arm I scanned in.

    Installation
    8. Position the control arm in the subframe and install the pivot bolt and the vertical
    bushing bolt. Do not tighten them completely at this time.
    9. Insert the balljoint stud into the steering knuckle boss, install the nut and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If necessary, tighten the nut a little more if the cotter pin hole doesn't line up with an openirrg on the nut. Install a new cotter pin.
    10. Install the stabilizer bar-to-control arm link bolt, bushings, spacers and washers (see Section 6) and tighten the link nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
    11. Place a floor jack under the outer end of the control arm and raise it to simulate normal ride height. Now tighten the control arm pivot bolt and the vertical bushing bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
    Caution: If the bolts aren't tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension (or the control arm raised to simulate normal ride
    height), control arm bushing damage may occur.
    12. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Is there a certain order you should bleed the brakes???
  • Yes, the shop manual says the order should be: right rear, left front, left rear, then right front.

    Be sure you run the engine for at least 10 seconds after you bleed the brakes (which you may already know) and be sure the fluid level is good.

    Also, the manual says if you still have a lot of play after bleeding the lines, start the engine for 10 seconds and then turn off WITHOUT depressing the brake pedal and do this 5 consecutive times. This should dislodge any air trapped in the ABS modulator. Then repeat the bleeding proceedure.

    The manual also says NEVER use old fluid because it contains some moisture (which can be compressed and boils).

    -Tony
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Thanks again,

    I have bled them several times but this information is very useful.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Sorry I missed you, didn't mean to leave you hanging - been working crazy overtime the last few days. Looks like tony 17112 took good care of you. I'll keep watching when I can if you need more info
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Hey no problem Dude! Thanks for all your assistance. While I have you on the line, I am just finishing up some odds and ends on the van getting it ready for winter and there is still one outstanding issue. My heater is not working very efficiently. When it is turned up full blast there is very little air coming out. Any ideas?? The rear heating system has alot of air it's just the fromt system. Takes forever to defrost the windshield.

    thanks again!!
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Have you checked the cabin air filter? They can clog up pretty quickly depending on where you live. Maybe that's why you're not getting much airflow?
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Sorry feeling a little dumb, where is the cabin filter located???
  • It's in the glove compartment. Pull the filter(s) out and run the fan to see if it runs full blast. -Tony
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Like Tony said...&

    There are 2 of them in there behind that door in the back.
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Hey guys,

    That was the issue they were plugged solid!!! You guys are amazing, all total you have saved me $1000 in repairs and unnecessary trips to the shop. If your ever in Halifax, give me a buzz and lunch is on me!!

    thanks again guys!!
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    You're very welcome...Thanks Tony for picking up the ball when I wasn't back for a little while.

    All the best,
    John :shades:

    PS - I don't know about Tony but I like to eat a LOT so it might be cheaper to consult with a mechanic next time than offer to buy lunch... ;)
  • I have a 2005 Chevy Venture and am very concerned about a recent problem with my Temperature Gauge - normally it's fine, but recently we had a bug dump of snow (not that it's related but I was thinking maybe salt from the road got into something) - when I idled somewhere it climbed into the red really quickly, and then stayed there. With no apparent problems with the coolant or oil. Was at my sister's for a while during Christmas eve, and came back to find the gauge buried hot - so I thought that it would indicated an electrical problem. Ambient temp is warmer and snow is melting, now I'm getting an indication again, was somewhat normal until I idled somewhere again. Opened the rad cap and had fluid - was not too hot. Any ideas? :mad:
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Sounds like the coolant temp sensor is shot if its reading smokin' hot and the motor is only warm...I would change that 1st and see if it cures the problem...
  • 33chevy33chevy Posts: 28
    Wipers do not go to park when turned off. May stop partially up or even in vertical position. Take off the big cover on passenger side that covers the wiper motor ...then remove the plastic cover that shields the top of the motor. Spray WD-40 or any good lubricant over the metal plates and spring which are on top of the wiper motor drive shaft. Wiggle the blade arms some to distribute lubricant around. Wipers will now return to the proper park positon when turned off. This fixed the problem on my 2000 Venture. Old original grease dried up.
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