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Chevy Venture

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  • livenlargelivenlarge Posts: 1
    Just wanted to let everyone know that I have a 2005 Venture with less than 5000 miles on it and in the last week, have had the battery replaced, the alternator replaced, and the water pump replaced. Not a good start..... :cry:

    Good luck with your Ventures !!
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 978
    There's a lot of discussion about this problem in the Chevrolet Van Owners: Problems & Solutions forum.

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    If it's any consolation, I have a 2000 Pontiac Montana (roughly the same as the Venture) that dropped two transmissions in it's first 10,000 miles. Since then, it has been mostly trouble free. Now at about 65,000 miles......
  • rvorvo Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone,

    I've got a 2001 Venture LS with 200 000 KM (+/- 125 000 miles). I'm in Canada. I've had the same Intake gasket and Head gasket failures. My dealer up here in Canada told me GM fixes these for free - even out of warranty. I had the Intake fail at 80 000 Km (+/- 50 000 miles), well out of warranty. They changed the gaskets, oil, filter etc. Within a few days the intake failed again, and blew the rear head gasket also. GM replace the rear head gasket, intake gasket, oil, filter etc for free again. I did request that the front head gasket be replaced at the same time as a precaution. It cost me less then $100 (canadian), since most of the motor was ripped down. The dealer also told me the reason for the intake/rear head gasket failures is the poor design of the engine compartment. The Intake and Rear of the motor are covered, so the heat builds up, because cold air can't circulate back there. This also causes premature alternator failure. Notice the '05 Uplander - new front end (ie longer), but same rear portion as the Venture. I would [non-permissible content removed] and complain if the dealer charges you for the Intake and Head gaskets. My Chevy Dealer willing told me. They even fixed the roof paint no charge - another GM problem - because of rust spots. GM also fixes paint delamination for free if you scream loud enough - it works trust me.
    As for the No Start/Security issue. That also happened to me under warranty. I would turn the key, and nothing. Try turning the off then to start again. Should work for a bit. With me it turned out the Security Chip in the Head (under the black rubber) of the Ignition/Door Lock key was flakey. It screwed up the ignition cylinder. After the Key and Ignition module were changed all was fine.
    Any questions please let me know.
  • steve2112steve2112 Posts: 1
    Hi there, just a question regarding head gaskets. I have a 2000 Venture, do you mean to tell me that ANY GM Dealer will change these for free? Because it is of a poor design? Mine has 184,000 kms on it, and the engine's knocking pretty good, and I've had to replace and fill my collant twice in the last 6 months or so. It does need a good tun up too, so maybe while it's being done, they can replace this for free?
  • Hi
    I had problem with wipers not going into a park. Shops offered replacement of motor and electronic card. They did not sound convincing so I did my research. I noticed that wipers went to park when it's raining. I disconnected wipers' transmission and tried to move it with hand and they were hardly moving. One of bearings appeared to be clogged with road salt so motor could not move it to park and normal moving speed was slow also. I found shop that agreed the reason of problem (there were some that did not listen) and got transmission replaced.
    Try that.
    P.S. I still do not know how damn motor works; too complicated.
    Good luck!
  • Hi I've had this same problem with my 2001 chevy venture...It had a faulty chip in the ignition key making it shutdown..Hope this helps!!!...good luck
  • sintrasintra Posts: 15
    Yes, I had the same pulley problem more than 2 years ago and it was replaced free of charge although the car was out of warranty because it had previously been recalled to check that problem and nothing had been found or done at the time. So it was their fault. The car had 50000 miles. I must add that my Venture has the V6 Catera engine (I live in Europe) and that I found advice on the Catera forum, here at Edmunds. In Europe the Venture is an Opel Sintra. The pulley is in 2 parts that are separated by a rubber part which absorbs shocks.
  • 2001 Venture. My air conditioning is not working. The compressor is working and the system is charged with freon. Any ideas?

    I also have have wierd electrical problems such as the tail lights burning out and the driver's side window not working.

    Thanks!
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 978

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • rogaurdrogaurd Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Chevy Venture, which I have started having a few problems with lights dimming and the electrical system in general. I do have an amplifer and subwoofers added on to the system as well as an aftermarket cd player which can account for a total addition of 35 amps to 45 amps of draw. When my subs are turned up all of the way they do tend to make the lights dim. Also when I use the ABS the lights will dim while they are on.... That is a side note to my current problem with the electrical system. For the past week it has been getting worse In which I attempt to start the vehicle and it wont start the first few times, but on the 4th or 5th time if it give it some gas it will start up. Also, the lights now dim when the bass is turned up half way instead of all of the way. In the past two days, my ABS light will pop on at various times when i am driving normally and not even using the ABS, as well as the Brake light (in the insturment cluster) does the same thing. Today, it required a jump to get started and then after driving for 10 minutes the ABS light comes on so i turn it off and try to restart it (because that usually clears the lights in the dash cluster) it died again requiring a 15 minute long charge from a car before the jump start would work.
    I'm guessing it is the alternator, but on a previous post someone mentioned a "10316685 Kit screw for Bosch generators" that fixed an electrical system problem? Is it the alternator? The battery? Also if i have to replace the alternator what is a good place to get an alternator with lots of Amps so i can eliminate all light dimming from my subs.?????
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Posts: 228
    Have the alternator and battery checked. Also there is a TSB on a ground connection on the alternator for these GM minivans. Check to make sure this has been done.
  • buzzlpbuzzlp Posts: 3
    There is a bulliten on this problem. It deals with a screw in the back of the alternator which has to properly ground the voltage regulator to the case of the alternator. GM has a screw kit with instructions on how to fix this.
  • rogaurdrogaurd Posts: 2
    First thankyou for your quick reply's. Just a couple more questions. What is a TSB ground connection? Is that the thing with the screw that post #1855 is talking about, and if my alternator happens to be dead, how much should i expect to pay for a new alternator (or refurbished one) that is an OEM replacement? Also I was thinking of putting a bigger alternator to prevent my subwoofers from dimming my lights, how much more would a alternator for that cost as opposed to the previous? Finally, what should I expect for the labor charge (either number of hours or labor price) that would be reasonable?
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Posts: 228
    Yes, TSB is "Technical Service Bulletin" as stated in #1855.
  • buzzlpbuzzlp Posts: 3
    This may sound unbelievably simple and silly, but the same code came up on my wifes Venture. I found that she hadn't tightened the gas cap enough. You have to tighten it till you hear at least 3 clicks. If not, it will allow the fumes to leak out thus not allowing the proper pressure in the system setting the EVAP Emiss code. This might not be your problem, but is worth a shot. You may also want to make sure the gas cap is working correctly. They can go bad as well and do the same thing. Hope this helps.
  • buzzlpbuzzlp Posts: 3
    Our van has got a bin which has slots in it for CD's to ride in. It is a little out of the way, but comes in handy!
  • offhamoffham Posts: 344
    Thanks your note and had it fixed sometime ago, so far all OK, but find lights in the switches are dying off and one in the fuel gauge.
  • ts60423ts60423 Posts: 52
    My ugly brown van has been a great car for me and my kids.

    My problems have been minimal over 200,000 miles, but include the following and resolutions:

    If you have ever changed the air filter, it is a PAIN. Get a K&N filter, it does not need changing very often, increases gas mileage, and it is reuseable.

    Change your plugs more often than 100,000 miles. Ask the mechanics for the used plugs - there was nothing left of mine, and it really puts a strain on the ignition system to bridge an enlarged gap. You would be amazed at how little is left of them. My mechanic can put the car up on the lift and change them without lowering the engine.

    Change your fluids - transmission every 50,000 - mine was not and a local dealership messed up a warranty repair on a valve assembly - the combination equalled a new transmission.

    LOSE THE RED ANTIFREEZE!!! - That stuff will eat your gaskets, especially the intake gasket. After only 40,000 miles I changes mine out - it looked fine, but it washed out mud. I put in green and it stayed clean. The red turns very acidic quickly. I recently put in the yellow/orange universal fluid.

    I still have the original brake rotors, all original brakes and pads on the back. Ceramic pads are on the front, a little more expensive, but great improvement in braking, and the rims stay clean. A pad change on the front of these is a snap!

    I just got new struts and shocks - I was riding on nothing but springs. Well worth the cost, the back shocks are cheap and simple to change.

    Get an induction treatment from your mechanic to clean all of the goop out of your intake. Mine gets so bad that my throttle plate sticks shut.

    I enjoy driving my car, and I love the 25-28 mpg on the Interstate. I have a rattle that is a lifter or injector, not sure which. I am tempted to take off my intake and clean it out good. I got the idea to get a shotgun cleaning kit and try to use it to reach in and clean it out, but have not tried it yet.

    Hope this helps someone someplace!

    Ted
    :)
  • ts60423ts60423 Posts: 52
    There are two different alternators listed for the Venture - one is for most, but I believe that there is one that has a higher amperage to handle vans equipped with AWD or the rear air compressor. Alternators are expensive, and the labor is worse. There is not enough room to fit over the engine, so everything, including the wipers and motors on the passenger side have to be removed, or the engine rotated down. Very time consuming and labor intensive, and the compact space-saving size means extremely fine, tight windings inside the alternator - life expectancy is only about 60-80,000 miles!

    Good luck!
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    Great to hear from someone getting that many miles on these vans. It gives one hope, especially after reading and experiencing the various problems on this forum.

    Do you think it is better to switch from Dexcool orange to Prestone orange (are they the same?) or just do a thorough flush and switch to green antifreeze. I have used Prestone orange for 182K miles without any problems whatsoever on my '95 Mazda Protege. Of course, that is quite a different engine than our 2001 Olds Silo. with 45K miles.

    Thanks.
  • ts60423ts60423 Posts: 52
    Switch to the yellow/orange that is the universal and can be used or mixed with either red or green. Stay away from the Dexcool - the way my old mechanic explained it, GM went with the dexcool across the board without upgrading their gaskets first. The Dexcool is more acidic, and reacts with different alloys than the green coolant.

    Another problem that came up recently was a small coolant leak. I still have original hoses and thermostat, but I did replace the water pump about a year ago - did it myself, very easy and inexpensive. My leak was where the lower tranmission coolant line goes into the radiator. A repair would have been extreme, possibly requiring a new radiator! I used a Prestone leak stop, and it fixed it right up. Stay away from Bar's Leaks and other similar products.
  • ts60423ts60423 Posts: 52
    I had to have my hood repainted recently - I had a lot of rock damage that caused the clear coat to peel off in spots. I also had a patch of corrosion - the hood is all aluminum, and this is very unusual - has anyone else had a similar experience? Even the auto shop at the dealership was at a loss. The corrosion was a white flakey powder and looked like rust bubbling up under the paint, but the paint shop fixed it all up. Just curious.
  • agt_cooperagt_cooper Posts: 202
    Not sure if its the same thing, but just about every aluminum fire engine I've ever seen has galvanic corrosion at the door handles. Even though the manufacturers put rubber gaskets between the steel door handles and the aluminum body panels, dampness allows the corrosion to occur. It presents itself as bubbling paint and a powdery residue under the paint in areas adjacent to door handles and other dissimilar metals.

    It doesn't seem to weaken the metal that much, but it is unsightly. If you're seeing this type of thing in the middle of the hood, seems hard to explain. (Unless, of course you mounted a big hood ornament!! ;) )

    Is there any other material in contact or nearby the parts of the hood that corroded?
  • ts60423ts60423 Posts: 52
    It was on the folded edge near the passenger wiper blade, and a dollar bill folded lengthwise could cover it, but it was growing beneth the paint. I did a little research, but I ended up talking to a metalurgist at the college I attend. There are three reasons that can happen (normally) - the metal was not properly treated at the factory, but that is easily checked before assembly. Another is to have contact with steel - the steel and aluminum need a barrier, or the steel will lose strength and rust easily and quickly, and the aluminum will lose strength and corrode. The last is interesting - if there is a bad ground in the vehicle, the aluminum can corrode. The aluminum around a bad connection will corrode, and it can even be found that way. I also found out that you can test you antifreeze with an amp/ohm meter to check its charge. If it is wrong, corrosion is occuring inside the aluminum engine and radiator. I also had an alluminum brake connector beneth the driver corrode heavily - yet the one next to it was fine.
  • gadwellergadweller Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can buy a used upper intake manifold for a 1998 chevy venture. I am trying to replace the one that someone cracked (w/o my knowledge) and apparently now has caused a major vacuum leak. Thanks...
  • ts60423ts60423 Posts: 52
    There are many online junkyards with used parts - do a google search on what you are looking for. The one that looked most interesting was this one - http://www.advancedracing.com/car_parts/usedparttechchevy/index.php
    Copy and paste it into your address line.

    If you can see the crack, you MIGHT be able to use some engine silicone to plug it for a bit.
  • ts60423ts60423 Posts: 52
    To anyone out there with a need for any suspension work needs - get it all done at once!!! I recently had my struts replaced, and had a failing tie rod. No problem, was expecting as much after 191,000 miles. Unfortunately, now that the new struts are pushing the wheels down harder against the ground, the ball joints now appear to be bad! The problem is that the stupid ball joints did not appear to be bad when checked by the mechanic because they were locked up tight. The original parts do not have any grease fittings, so once it is gone, they do things like that. The worst part is that they do not have any real play in them, they just creak, groan and respond poorly. Not to mention that a failed ball joint can eventually result in joint separation - not cool. :sick:

    ((I actually ripped a hole in the rubber grease boot on each and spay oil in once every couple days to keep it freed up - good enough for now, and my 7-year-old gladly had this task added to his list of weekly chores!))

    Bottom line is this - the parts are not real expensive - its the labor - get it all done at once! It all has to be taken apart and aligned anyway. It is easier for a mechanic to pull out a new part than mess with an old one. Make sure the replacement parts have grease fittings on them for longer life.
  • paulazpaulaz Posts: 1
    It's called filiform corrosion & is typical on airplanes, occurs when water & salts are trapped under a paint chip
  • kakojrkakojr Posts: 5
    hi,
    just wanted to let you know that it sounds like your alternator is bad. but without properly testing you really cant be sure.. and when you say your ABS light comes on even when your not using it? You are always using your abs unless its disabled.. its probably a wheel speed sensor going bad or not getting enough voltage... that will turn on your light. your brake light will only come on if there is a problem with the fluid. perhaps you have an electrical problem as well. I would get it checked by someone who has a scanner... NOT A DEALER... go somewhere that makes there money on other things, like tires and ask there mechanics if they have a scanner.. pay the 60 to 70 bucks to find out whats wrong. then call other places to find out they're price to fix it... as for all the other people that complain about prices of auto repair.... WHERE ARE YOU GOING??? Think about this... I take my venture van to about 6 different places... I talk to the mechanics not the service guys... I listen to what they say and i judge them.. If i think they're just trying to get my money i go elsewhere... if i feel confident in that mechanic, ill let him work on it... take it from me, I AM an honest ASE certified mechanic. I know how they work... I still go to other places when i dont have time to work on my own vehicle.. or its something thats out of my league... like why wont my dash lights come on.... or the radio lights... i know its not the fuse. but not sure how this venture van works. I am not an electrical mechanic... sorry to ramble on but nobody else has this problem and i was reading yours and had an idea of what your problem was...
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