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Chevy Venture



  • riverknollriverknoll Posts: 12
    To all my Venture brethren, I concede defeat.
    Maintenance cost for latest visit to dealer broke the camel's back. AC compressor they wanted $900, both brakes $650. Factor in a leaking washer tank, leaking windshield, and everything rattles after only 58K miles. Engine runs fine, but I am also starting to add coolant, very suspicious. A 2001 WB edition, and the VCR doesn't work either. Bottom line: I am not willing to wager any additional $$ on this time bomb.

    Traded this 4 year van for 1/4 of the new car price, and got me a Toyota Sienna. Hope this time around the van will last longer than the car payments.

    Good luck to you all. Won't see me in a GM dealer ever again.
  • 3carfam3carfam Posts: 1
    Did you find the solution to your van problem? My Wife's 99 Venture did not have third gear or drive. Only 1,2 and R. when I checked the fluid it had bubbles on it and the level seemed high. My Chilton book said "Do Not overfill fluid", but we have never put fluid in. I realize that your message was from 2001, I was just curious if you solved your problem.

  • I am having the exact same problem with my 97 chevy venture. I only have 1,2, and R and my fluid it too full. The only thing different is my transmission has been flushed about four months ago and the fluids are very dirty already. I found out that the filter was not changed at that time and it is possible that this could be the reason the fluid is so bad again. I just wanted to know if you were able to fix your wifes van, and if so what did you have to do to fix the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
  • jmt1jmt1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Venture, I had the head gasket replaced about 2 months ago and everything was running fine until recently when the car would stall out. I took it into the shop and they replaced fuel filters added additive, the computer says everything is fine but the problem persists. As soon as I hit the gas hard the engine "bogs" down almost like really bad fuel. I have been told it could be the timing, electrical, fuel pump, has anyone had this problem?
  • longasheslongashes Posts: 1
    My latest project on maintaining the Venture is the passenger side interior door panel coming off. Looks like the clips that hold the panel to the metal door are stripped.

    Anyone know of a place online that I can purchase these from? I've gone to some replacement part websites with no luck. Repair seems simple enough. Any directions would be appreciated as well.

    Thanks in advance!

  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    I would think that AutoZone would carry the replacement clips for the door panel.
  • offhamoffham Posts: 344
    Sorry for delay.

    The transmission cooler has been the best investment. It cost $180 to install and mounts on the front of radiator. I have the transmission fluid and filter changed every 30/35K miles. It does mainly a lot of short drives and stop starts so I go to a transmission only guy and I had it done last Saturday for $65.00. I would suggest you find a transmission only place in the yellow pages. Avoid the High Street regulars or quick change people.

    If the fluid has bubbles then you need a cooler. The manufacturers short change by running through the radiator which on a hot day can make it worse. The cooler drops the transmission temperature by 20-30 degrees.

    Im would suggest to anyone who wants to avoid a costly transmission replacement to get one the cost is minimal in the scheme of things.
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Posts: 228
    I think the transmission cooler is standard with the trailer towing package.
  • offhamoffham Posts: 344
    Yes you are correct, but I am not sure of the size or where it is located. The one I have is about 12 inches by 10 inches. You can them at Pep Boys etc. and they come with all the fittings to mount on the front of the radiator, rubber tubing, clamps etc. The Venture has a lot of space in the front which makes it ideal,

    I tried to get one on my other car - Suzuki GV XL7 and just was not the room.
  • offhamoffham Posts: 344
    As mentioned you press the gas pedal three times with the ignition on but not started. I found that as I had a thick rubber mat the pedal would not go down enough to clear.

    What I do is physically move the throttle fulcrum over to the right three times to ensure it is reset. As you are limited on time you have to have the drivers window down to lean in and turn key then go round to the front.
  • ventvent Posts: 1
    I too have the same problem with battery and new alternator. I called my local dealer and the kit costs $125. My question is where can I buy this $5 screw??
  • isevillaisevilla Posts: 6
    I have a similar problem with my 97 driver side power window seems as if its off track and once it gets half way up it moves a bit to one side then takes forever to go all the way up. It even sometimes needs to get hit or pulled up and it still doesnt close all the way. I can see where the smudges are where it should go to but it doesnt close all the way. Now to my passenger side window...this one got stuck in the down position and my husband managed to get it back up by taking apart the switch and messing with it and eventually it went up again. Its been a couple of weeks since it happened but we are scared to open it all the way down now.

    I read in a reply to the original post that a person bought a new switch and replaced it for a window that got stuck. Hopefully someone can suggest a resolution for my driver side window getting stuck half way on its way up.

    Thanks in advance!
  • isevillaisevilla Posts: 6
    I have a 97 Venture and it seems that the rubber that is around the driver side door comes off and I constantly have to push it back into place. Is there someway to glue it back into place or something or do you have to buy a new one? It seems that when it comes loose i hear more road noise as well.

    Thanks in advance for your suggestions and or solution to this problem.
  • offhamoffham Posts: 344
    The part you want is 10316685 and on the Chevy Impala site there is a diagram how to fix. Cost is $2.86
  • beatsmebeatsme Posts: 1
    Yeah, me too.....nothing but Japanese from here on out....except a few trucks....I had a nice long one going but must have wiped it out before I posted it.....It comes down to this....I buy an American product; troubles.....I buy a Japanese product; no's not the drivetrains or engines, it's the little things...knobs, trim, rattles, bolt-ons, mystery problems no one can identify or fix at $100/hr.....

    I have owned an 87 Firebird (had to be repainted when new), 92 Cougar (brakes kept glazing over...3 sets in 40k miles), an 03 Venture (rear brake cylinders were leaking and both replaced this week...36,571 miles), and 04 Ram (6,000 miles on it and the ECM had to be reset, rear discs replaced due to warping).....

    Contrast that to my 89 Accord (flawless, I actually traded this in on a patriotic move when I bought my 92 Cougar...go figure) 92 Camry (112,500 flawless miles on it)....99 Camry....flawless, (69,000 miles on it and the front brakes, tires and routine maintenance have been performed....I will keep this thing until it croaks or the kids wreck it...)

    So its American Cars: 0-2-2 vs. [non-permissible content removed] time I need a passenger vehicle or hear an American autoworker is going to lose his/her job, I am going to RUN to the nearest Toyota or Honda dealership and buy one or two more to make absolutely, positively sure one or two more workers get knocked out at the "plant".... ;)
  • rward2rward2 Posts: 2
    I had this exact problem with my `97 Venture. Here is how I solved it:

    1. Check your light ALL of your tail lights or turn signal bulbs. They will cause fast blinks and slow blinks and dimming on the side where the bulb is burnt out. Make sure the bulb isn’t partly burnt out. The tail lights have a high and low setting, if one or the other is burnt out this can cause the problem as well. You might even check for corrosion at the base of the light bulb where it plugs into the light bulb mount. If that doesn’t work or if you have corrosion in the bulb mount follow the rest of the instructions. this will solve that issue as well.

    2. Remove the tail light and detach the wire harness assembly from the actual tail light lens.

    3. Detach the positive battery cable. (this is a pain on the Venture)

    4. About 6 inches from the male wire connection use a wire cuter and snip the connection. (I think it was a total of 5 or 6 wires)

    5. I previously went to a junk yard and found a wire harness assembly with no corrosion or burning, on the bulb plug ins, male side, female side of the wire harness and the actual light bulb plug in mount. Make sure that you have NO corrosion on either side of the plug in. This ran me only about 10 bucks and being that the Venture was common in my neck of the woods I have plenty to pick from.

    6. It’s best if you get corresponding wire harness to your problem. i.e. right side if it is right side This is not necessary but it is recommended. … The wire coloring is one wire off.

    7. Strip all wires one quarter of an inch on the cut sides.

    8. Use a standard wire connector or crimping tube to attach the wires to the corresponding wire on the vehicle. Green to green… yellow to yellow… you know the drill.

    9. Wrap the new connections in electrical tape or shrink tube. This will help to prevent a reoccurrence or similar issues from happening.

    10. Reinstall the wire harness, bulb assembly and tail light.

    11. Check your fuses. I found that the venture has an odd tendency to pop fuses when any electrical issues happen.

    12. Reattach your battery cable.

    13. You may have to drive long enough for the ABS computer to reset or run a few cycles. I drove mine for about 15 minutes before the computer reset.

    Let me know if that works for you. I took this to several places that said in no way shape or form should the ABS light come on because a tail light short. They where wrong! I did this last month and I have had no issues since.
  • gil99gil99 Posts: 2
    For four months I have endured this life of uncertainty of where I will be "IF" my van dies!!! I first brought it to the dealer because there was three dings of a bell and the gas guage, temp guage and spedometer guage all fell off to the left- or 0 (zero) radio turns off, but the car is still running. The AC is on too. This happens 5 or 6 times and I bring it in when the yellow security light keeps coming on. OK, they find out the battery split and leaked acid about. They replace it and send me on my way.
    Within a week all the dials start repeating their last performance and I go directly to the battery, it's fine. I continue driving it for two months and the dings occur occasionally. Finally it is dead outside the post office. I go and shake the battery but not even a hum or click. Dealer says it was a loose starter connection.
    Wow, glad we figured that one out! Now less than two weeks from the last trip to the dealer and the same bell dings and all guages dropping off! Yellow security light stays lit up as long as I run it. When I restart it the yellow security light goes off..... any comments or similar problems out there?
  • tjm103tjm103 Posts: 1
    as per my owners manual and by my own experience with my 01 venture just cycle the trip odometer untill it says oil and then hold it for i believe 5 sec, it will reset to 100 and the message will go away as well. you can also find out your remaining oil life just be cycling through as mentioned above
  • offhamoffham Posts: 344
    Between 2000 and 2001 Chevrolet changed the oil change notification and reset procedure.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    The driver's side pwr window on my 2000 Silo kept wanting to go up crooked. If you pulled it back as it went up, it would go up easier. I took it to a dealer to have it looked at and they said it needed a new regulator. They wanted $600 for parts and labor. To make a long story short, I ended up buying the regulator for $300 from a friend who works at a dealership. Retail, the part was $475. You can also get the part from, but be careful because their web-site gave me the wrong p/n. The Olds is different from the Chevy/Pontiac. Call a dealer and get the p/n before ordering from the internet. They may ask you for the VIN. I would not consider this an easy part to replace. It's the whole freakin inside of the door. I was lucky that my mechanic brother-in-law helped me. I had a couple of earlier posts on his subject if you want more details. The sad part is the only thing wrong was a bracket that got bent. The bracket probably cost GM about $2, but you can't buy the bracket separately.

    Hope this helps.
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