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2010 VW Golf



  • jbaustianjbaustian Posts: 78
    Generally speaking, the more miles you drive each year, the better suited you are for a TDI. If you drive under 10k miles annually, then you use so little fuel that it really doesn't matter what you drive -- and it rarely makes sense to buy a new car anyway. OTOH, if you're driving 25k or 35k or 50k miles each year, then there is no better car than a VW TDI.

    Lastly, the extra price at purchase for a VW with a TDI engine is not really a cost of ownership, since the resale value after 3 years or 5 years is equally high. At least in the past, the gas-engine models lost more value than the diesel-engine one. And if you go back around 8-10 years, the gas-engine models are so cheap that they are rarely worth fixing if something serious goes wrong; but the 1998-1999 TDI Jettas, Golf,and NBs, and the 1996-1997 Passat TDIs, are all still worth fixing and owning.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,850
    that $5K premium for the diesel will add up to 0.05/mile all by itself.

    What premium? Here in CA the largest auto market diesel is less than RUG for about half the year. Currently at my local Shell station, RUG is $3.12 and ULSD is $2.99. The highest priced RUG is $3.89 and the highest price for ULSD is $3.39. That makes the RUG burning Golf about 40% more expensive just for gas. For me I would get the GTI if I was to buy a gas burner. That would make the TDI even better against premium. Over the last year ULSD has never been more than Premium gas here in So CA.

    As far as initial cost, and depreciation. You will most certainly get a higher rate of depreciation with the Golf gasser. Plus selling the TDI yourself is a lot easier. The demand for used VW oil burners is always high.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 3,238
    edited March 2010
    . . .that $5K premium for the diesel will add up to 0.05/mile all by itself.

    What premium?

    I was referring to an earlier-referenced premium for the vehicle/engine, not the fuel. Maybe the diesel in the Golf is the same price as the gas engine, but in some vehicles it's hard to get the diesel without significant additional cost, part of which is often an upgraded accessory/feature package.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Driving 50k miles each year would probably mean spending something like 1000 hours per year behind the wheel. Unless all that driving is actually a job, I can not imagine why anyone would drive anywhere near that much.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 28,850
    Amazingly there are a lot of people that live in San Diego and work in Orange County and Los Angeles. That is 200+ miles a day. Over 50K miles per year. I would hate it. Better in a Golf TDI than a Prius. Even better if you pull the seats out of a GTI and put in your Golf TDI.
  • eliaselias Posts: 1,898
    here's one example. i drove about 60k miles per year for a few years recently..
    that was with a 35x2 mile commute, plus lots of kid-shuttling on weekdays & weekends. multiply by 2, because kids' mama was doing almost the same miles/year.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited March 2010
    You are correct. My spreadsheet only has fuel-costs on it. Since ALL vehilces need tires, brakes, insurance and occasional maintenance... one can consider that a "wash" and do not need to figure that in to the equasion when comparing vehicles in "cost per mile" comparisons.

    If you really feel the need to factor in the scheduled maintenance... The TDI costs LESS than gasser due to longer OCI and no ignition system to maintain.

    If you really feel the need to factor in resale-cost... the TDI ALWAYS holds it value over gasser. I drive my vehicles into the ground till there is very little value left because this is the most economical way to own a vehicle. Hence, I dont give a $%$# about resale value. I simply bank what I would have paid in monthy car-payments. When the time comes, I pay cash for my next Diesel-hybred!!

    Heck, I have not even run thru the 12Year/Unlimited milage warrante on my 2003 TDI yet.
  • I finally found a 2010 Golf TDI 4 door last week and bought it. I drove the first 125 miles around Phoenix, then hit the highway to Vegas before ending my trip in Pahrump, NV where I filled up for the first time. 545 miles and just under 14 gallons.

    The car rides very well, is very quiet, climbed the mountain pass (about 2500 ft) between Vegas and Pahrump without a down shift or drop in speed on cruse, and left me quite satisfied with my choice of this vehicle.

    The TDI and DSG auto work well together, keeping the revs low while the torque brings smiles leaving the lights. I haven't used the sport mode yet, but will after another 1000 miles or so.

    No complaints. A good, comfortable, sporty vehicle that performs very well and is very economical. I expect to see 50+ mpg highway mileage as the engine breaks in.

    Why doesn't everyone drive one of these? :shades:
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    I expect to see 50+ mpg highway mileage as the engine breaks in.

    50 mpg may be achieved by steady cruising for long periods of time when the speed is kept 55 mph to 63 mph. Don't expect 50 mpg, you will likely be disappointed with current TDI as they typically will deliver 40 to 45 mpg highway, even after break in.
  • jbaustianjbaustian Posts: 78
    During this early break-in period, you should not drive to maximize fuel economy. Instead you should work the engine harder, change engine speeds frequently, accelerate more briskly from stoplights and on freeway onramps, etc. Gradually use more of the RPM band -- up to about 4000 RPM now, later on around 4400, the redline is 5100 but you may never rev that high with stock tuning.

    TDI engines take a long time to break-in completely; even after 20k miles there will still be gradual improvements in engine performance and fuel economy. If you baby the engine now, it will take longer to achieve all the potential it has to offer. So for at least the first 3k-4k miles, keep track of your fuel mileage but do not drive so as to maximize fuel mileage.

    Lastly, the use of cruise control is not recommended with a new TDI engine. On long trips this is unreasonable. So what you can do is, about every 10-15 minutes, when the traffic is clear, drop down a gear, let the car slow, let's say from 70 to 55, then accelerate briskly to 75 or so before putting it back in top gear and resuming cruise control at 70. If you really want to accelerate the break-in process, then there is a method but it will only work if you're traveling alone since it will drive your passenger(s) crazy with constant speed changes.
  • On flat roads at 70, no wind, my instant mileage is 65 - 68. I have noticed the average mpg reads a few mpg high as compared to manual calculation at fill up. It follows that the instant mpg reading on the trip computer would be ambitious as well.

    Real world hills and wind will pull these numbers down, but if you look at the euro spec models mileage ratings, these vehicles are capable of 50+ mpg on the highway.

    I'll update in a few weeks... :shades:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    CR (march 2010 issue) measured 49 mpg hwy. Their test, unlike EPA's, is, I believe, based on freeway type driving at a steady 65 mph.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited April 2010
    yes.... but their test is NOT on a well broken-in engine. It takes many miles of deliberate driving habits to nurture an engine that will return optimum MPG. (Highway-driving at a constant speed is perhaps the WORST way to break-in an engine.)

    The MPG numbers you see from EPA and most magazines are NOT reflective of real-world acheivement. Instead, they are based on engines which are still "tight" and worse, may have been poorly broken-in.

    Spend some time reading about the high-MPG folks at TDIclub. com and you will start to understand what I am saying here.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    edited April 2010
    Don't have a TDI (just helped my mom get one though) but I have no problem crushing the CR mpg numbers with my 2007 Accord I4 5MT. Bump up the tire pressure, 0w-20 synthetic oil, well broken in engine (80k miles now) and I have no problem getting well over 40 mpg at 65 mph (closer to 45 mpg actually). I have gone over 630 miles on a tank that included some city driving and still got 43.5 mpg for the tank. I have averaged over 50 mpg on 200 mile trips (from my calibrated scangauge) if I keep the speed just under 60 mph and conditions are good (this is on rural two lane roads).

    I am extremely confident that I could get 60 mpg with a TDI. It may be my next purchase, but still a lot of life in the Accord so it could be a while.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Tailgating semis, perhaps?
  • I just picked up my new 2010 Golf TDI (manual, 2-door) on Thursday (April Fool's Day) and I took it for a 124 mile road trip on Saturday. Mostly fast highways, some hill climbing. It showed 44.2 mpg for that trip. I did some around-town driving on Friday, so I've logged a total of 306 miles now with an overall 41.4 mpg (around town for me is a lot of country roads).

    I couldn't be happier with this car. The ride is quiet and solid with fast pick-up, it feels right at home doing 70, and the sound system is fantastic. My only problem is - I will probably never make it into 6th gear - 5th gear was cruising at 70 mph with plenty of room to spare. :)
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    You should be in 6th gear way before 70 mph.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you truly want your engine to be long-lived with maximum MPG... do not forget to apply the tried-n-true break-in process as written up over at

    Long highway trips should NOT be undertaken with new engine. Instead, take the back roads with lots of stop-n-go so you can apply the crutial accelleration / decelleration process that seats the rings before the piston-walls glaze.

    Expect well above 55 MPG on the highway once the engine is properly toned.
  • I'm going to minimize the highway driving now for the rest of the break-in. I just had to take it out for one early weekend trip.

    Now about driving in 6th - I'm in the habit of downshifting when the rpms drop below 2000. When I was doing 70 it was running at 2300 in 5th gear. So it sounds like I should be running at lower rpms to get into 6th. What's your lower range of rpms for highway cruising?
  • Can anyone recommend a good source for side moldings to protect the doors in parking lots? My VW dealer tells me they have side moldings for the 4-door Golf, but not the 2-door Golf ... :confuse:
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