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2013 and Earlier - Toyota Prius Prices Paid and Buying Experiences

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Comments

  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited September 2010
    Looks like GAP and alarm were hugely overpriced and the Prius has a very low theft rate. Not a big need for a pricey alarm system.
    Many lease contracts already have GAP built in. If so, you double payed or paid for something that added no value to you worth the extra cost.
    The dealer padded his profits with those items.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    well i bit the bait and purchased a new 2010 Prius II . The total cost was, after dealer fees, but without permanent tags and tax,$ 20810. The car comes with floor mats. I guess I should add about $130, which is what it cost to pick up the vehicle and bring it home. But that was part pleasure too. I did about as well as i could; i should have argued for lower cost floor mats and just a little more on the price of the car but i was really tired. But I think it was a good price and I figured that the dealership was not making very much on this deal I am open to your opinions.
  • I got a quote from a Sacramento dealer for a Prius III w/ solar option at $26000 (after $750 rebate), is it a reasonably good deal?
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    Check cars.overstock.com and see if their online price quotes are better or worse. If $26K is better, then it is a good deal.
  • I was able to negotiate the following for a Prius III base (only floor mats):

    36 mos/12K miles
    Gap insurance included
    $1,357 inceptions
    $1,000 cap cost reduction (to be matched with another $1,000 from Toyota)
    Free oil changes in addition to Toyota two-year factory maintenance
    $181 per month
    If you load in up front payments into monthly payments, per month cost is $246.47 fully loaded.
  • priusleaserpriusleaser Posts: 3
    edited September 2010
    Hi All - This is the 1st time I am leasing a car. So, I need your help to understand if I am getting a good lease price on the 2010 Toyota Prius III, as is.

    Here are the details:
    MSRP - $23,980 (mats etc included)
    Net Cap - $23,422

    36 month lease
    15,000 miles/yr
    Residual - $15,232
    Down-payment - $2,000 (includes 1st month payment)
    Monthly Payment - $252 (including taxes)

    Let me know what you folks think of this lease rate.
    Many thanks in advance for your help.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited September 2010
    You are better off putting minimal down payment on a lease (unlike financing a purchase) and put the extra cash in the bank to use towards the higher monthly payment. You will lose all the money you put down if the car is totaled/stolen shortly after you lease it.

    You didn't get much of a discount off of MSRP, so it doesn't seem like a bargain regardless.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    edited September 2010
    Now that I am home with my car and i am no longer concerned about a deal falling through I can give some exact figures for my purchase. (For various reasons I felt that I had to previously write as if my purchase had been complete) It was $20,277 for a new 2010 Prius II ---alas, not the white one for which I refused to pay additional-- with all floor mats. I did pay an additional dealers or service fee which was $499. With a couple of other charges for state requirements i drove the car off the lot for 20792. (Still must pay tax in my home state). I should add in about $125 as travel costs to go get the car and drive it home.

    I would be interested to hear from people if they thought this was a very good deal. It certainly seems that way to me and from reading other posts here. I have not seem a new one for less.

    I will have some comments on the dealer and the ease of transaction later on. but first, if any with more previous experience than I one has comments on the price I woudl appreciate them.
  • Jaxs, thanks for your advise. Here is an update:

    First, I made a mistake on the MSRP, it is actually $24,630 including Base MSRP + Blizzard Paint Charge + Destination Fees. The dealer then gave me a discount of $1,207 for a Net Cap of $23,422.

    Finally, per your advise about minimal up-front payment - which made total sense - I negotiated the following: $718 down and $289/month for 36 months (15K miles).

    The total payments now are only $40 more than if I put $2,000 down, so this is a much better deal, especially with your comment about getting "totaled" in mind. Thanks again, and let me know if you have any other thoughts.
  • Hi Everyone,

    Searching for a 2010 Prius IV no options except mats. i recieved a price of 25,200.
    Is this a good price or should I wait for a 2011.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,454
    Same price I got. VERY happy with the car. Seats are great and drivetrain/comfort way beyond what I expected. I bought the platinum toyota warranty for 7 year/75k miles for $654. Will keep it that long for sure. I'd buy now because gas is low and supply is high. Perfect storm. Don't think gas will get any cheaper in the short term but in 7 years could be way higher. Besides, can you imagine the choices available in 2017. Have 2700 miles on the odo --- roomy and enjoyable to drive and about 50-54 mpg. :shades:
  • tn072tn072 Posts: 4
    Which State it is?. I am looking for 2010 Prius II in Charlotte NC. Ready to buy if I get a suitable price.
  • Me too... looking for a 2010 II. Best prices seem to be around D.C. Look on cars.com, sort by price
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    edited October 2010
    I am very happy with the deal that I got and so far with the car. I just put gas into the car with 692 miles on it (I had put gas in once previously but did not start the trip odometer over again and this is therefore a cumulative reading of the gas mileage up to 692 miles). I got 49.6 miles per gallon. The average miles per hour on the car was 44, which in principle should suggest some city driving at 25 - 35 and and some highway driving between 60 and 70, with air conditioning running. Much of that highway driving was interstate. I have now put 117 miles on the new fill up and used the car mostly on highways at 60 miles per hour (though average mph is in the 40s on my read out) and I am getting 50.5 mph. I take it, therefore that the car is performing as it should.

    I am still trying to figure out the different driving modes. I use EV in parking lots or short trips in the streets of subdivisions, in which I drive very slowly. Mostly I drive in ECO mode, but I am not sure if initially it is better to start off in regular mode to get the car up to initial driving speed quickly and then switch to ECO mode or to use ECO mode and slowly get the car up to speed and then remain in ECO mode. The EV mode is a little erratic until you get the car heated up and even afterward it sometime says I am going at too high a speed when I am actually going about 15 mph. I try to slow down when coming to a light in B mode and sit at stop signs and at lights in B mode; I heard that this helps fuel economy. since I previously had a standard transmission shifting modes is pretty automatic for me; like shifting gears. Does anyone know if this does save fuel? I have never seen my battery indicator at full charge; the most I have seen it is at around 3/4 (maybe a little higher) and once very briefly it went down to around 1/3. Is this normal?

    One minor concern is a sensor noise I hear when i step on the brake to start the car up and when coming to a full stop; it is the same noise you hear when opening the door I believe, or very similar. I don't think I always hear it; you cannot perceive it when you step on the brake to slow the car while driving. I will take it in to the dealer to check but the car works fine and I am not too worried about it.

    Performance: very normal; power in regular mode is probably better than I expected. Sometimes when i listen for it I think the ride is kind of noisy; but then I listen again and I say it is actually pretty quiet! Starting and stopping is so quiet i have to remember that the car is on and not to leave the car before turning it off. I think they should make the "P" button also a turn off button. i find myself pretty engrossed in the readouts and wonder if i will have an accident one day because I am paying more attention to them than the road. I sometimes think I should have had lumbar support in the seat; but i felt that way about my previous car, a Sonata, and then quickly adjusted and like the car very much. I am accustomed to pretty big cars and I think the steering on this one, probably because it is lighter, is a little more active. Back seats are roomier than most people give credit for (but my family is short). The radio might be a littel weaker than in my other cars, but the sound is very good. I might get satellite radio in any case. Someone pointed out to me that there is quite a large blind area out the rear window, and now that they have mentioned it I do see what they mean. But I really did not notice prior to that.

    Would any of the "negatives' that i mentioned cause me from buying the car if i had it to do over again? Probably not. They are mostly the kind of thing I can easily live with and the positive factors probably would have outweighed the negatives. This is just a solid riding, normal driving car which I expect to give me excellent service at a very moderate cost. The most important things to me are safety, trouble free service, and value. I might add that there is something exhilariating about driving in to the gas station at the point I usually do for a fill up and then putting in only 9 gallons of gas! I also like the environmental impact of the car as well as the economy. I also still think i got an outstanding deal at 20792 (out the door but without tax). I purchased from Sandy Springs Toyota in Atlanta and my sales person was Ivars Kikulis; I woudl buy there again. I had also dealt a little with Piority Toyota in Richmond, VA, and I would stay away from that one.

    If you have any suggestions on driving mode, the sensor noise I hear when braking or anything else let me know!
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    edited October 2010
    in response to the person who asked in which state i purchased my Prius: I bought at Sandy Springs Toyota in Atlanta; salesperson was Ivars Kikulis. I used either USAA or Ebay buying service (can't remember which one). It was a good, honest deal. the cost out the door with mats after paying dealer fee, but without tax --I am in NC also-- was 20792. It might be a little cheaper now, but I doubt if it is very much. When I went to the dealership to purchase my car there was a couple from Charlotte who also had bought a Prius with the same sales rep. Good luck.
  • You are using B mode wrong. The only time B mode is used is if you are going down very a large hill for an extended period of time and your battery is at a full state of charge. At that point, your battery can not receive any more charge from the regenerative brakes and the result on that large hill is that you will be using your friction brakes. This can heat up your brakes and warp your rotors/disks just like in any car. The way you are using B mode explains why you battery is not charging more than 3/4 - you are using engine breaking to slow your car, not the regen brakes. For best mileage, keep it in eco mode. EV is useful to move the car in a parking garage without starting the warm up cycle.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    Thanks very much. I will use the B mode as you say. But I have not always used B mode the way I explained and prior to doing that still never had a full charge on the battery; not that I can recall. Of course I still have under 700 miles on the car so maybe I just have not noticed. Most of my initial driving was on the interstate for 500 miles and I do not recall a full charge. What should I do to create one; what kind of driving just to be sure that everything is OK?.

    I thought the car had to be warmed up to use EV mode. How about my use; the parking lot in the supermarket or the 1 mile or so from my driveway out of the subdivision in which I live?

    One last thing; I did not get how to change the setting on th door lock so that when I open the driver's side door all of the other doors open. I did read the book about this but was a bit rushed (and i still must watch the DVD) Or must you use either the key or the unlock button inside the car for that? Obviously to open the hatch without opening the driver's side you must us the key, right? If it is clear in the book no need to write.

    Very much appreciate you taking the time to correct me.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    By the way, for the person in Charlotte, Atlanta is probably only about 4 hours away from you. My flight from RDU only cost a total of $60; is should be the same fro you (or cheaper). The dealers in NC were not dealing ; I saved at least $3000. Perhaps you could find one for around 21700 in NC though that might not include Dealer Fee. If you do go outside of Charlotte, ask to be picked up at the airport (though in Atlanta there is an easy trin ride apparently to the dealership. Good luck.
  • The only way to get a full battery is to find a big hill and go down it while on the brakes. You probably need about 1000 foot in elevation change. Of course if you are on the interstate, you might not even be on the brakes down a large hill so you would probably need an even greater elevation change to get all bars of the battery. If you live in a flat state like Florida, you will never see a full battery.

    You can get ev to work in your driveway if you keep it under a few mph, even if cold. It is good for shuffling cars around like to wash a car in your driveway. That is pretty much the only time ev should be used. I wouldn’t use it the way you are unless a large downhill is in your future like out of your subdivision and you can use ev to drain the battery in advance of the large hill. Otherwise, it’s a gimmick and you should let the car figure out what is best.

    The manual tells you how to reset the key. I did it but can’t remember how. You can open the hatch even if all doors are locked, if you have a key in your pocket.

    Check out priuschat.com.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    You can only open the hatch that way on a Prius IV or V. Every other Prius requires you to unlock the doors first because it only works that way for the driver's door.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    Thanks very much. I am in eastern NC, which is pretty flat, so I guess that is why I have never seen a full battery.

    Sounds like the EV mode doesn't have much use. will the car automatically enter into it at any point as i think the Insight does?
  • boniamboniam Posts: 5
    I purchased a Prius II in MA for $20K + $295 doc fees + tax + title with msrp of $23760 in Oct 1. I think i got good price though the cash-back here has increased from 750 to 1000 here. I at least saw one more dealer advertising at $19995 here. I also got a good price on trade so I am happy. So far i am happy with my purchase and car.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    Best price i have seen yet. Did it come with mats or are those extra?
  • pgo1pgo1 Posts: 9
    Congratulations on your purchase! I am looking for Prius in MA as well. Which dealer did you purchase from?
  • boniamboniam Posts: 5
    It was Bernardi Toyota in Framingham. Their internet quote is pretty good. If anybody wants i can give the name of sales rep. Now that cashback is 1000 i would expect them to do it for 250 less. I was given 20k for a black but i later asked for winter grey which had around 210 more MSRP. However we also have a discount program through my work for them so they basically said because of that program they would eat 210.
  • Me too... looking for a $20K, late build, Blizzard Pearl... coming down from the State O' Maine.
  • boniamboniam Posts: 5
    It came with mats.
  • Make sure you get them to give you an update for the Nav system. My 2008 Nav unit is terrible and has incorrect information or doesn't have addresses at all for many places. In addition, there is a great deal of wrong information. They will come back and offer you an upgrade for $200. The Nav system isn't worth that to begin with. You are better off saving your money and getting a Garmin or Nuvi which will have much better features like traffic info. I have to use MapQuest and print out directions since I cannot depend on my Nav unit having the address or correct information. The only thing it really does ok is the 'Go Home' feature. If I were to buy it again, I wouldn't waste my money on the Nav unit.
  • dwynnedwynne Posts: 4,018
    You are replying to a message from 1 1/2 years ago :D .

    In any case, you are correct, nothing is a bigger ripoff than a factory NAV unit. You can get a Garmin with lifetime free traffic for $100 or less ($120-140 for a wide-screen model). Every factory system I have tried is out of date - way more than Garmin or TomTom (and those are out of date too). The biggest problem is that the factory NAV units lack the ability to navigate on back roads in out of the way places. Once you get off the main drag anywhere in small town America you are out of luck. They have the images of the streets, but can't route you on them.
  • Is this a Prius III with nav or not? Thanks!
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