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1996 Subaru Legacy Outback overheating



  • dan_kochdan_koch Posts: 9
    lol its ok... now i dont have to wash mine :D lol got it back together everything is working good so far
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Ha ha, I washed all 3 cars, now we have a full flood warning and two and a half days of rain in the forecast. :sick:
  • dan_kochdan_koch Posts: 9
    yea thats how it goes around here too.. lol well it looks like my luck keeps getting worse the car ran good for a day and started the same stuff again.... the only thing left is a bad radiator which i dont think it is. or head gaskets are blown :(
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Posts: 426
    If you are again getting no overheating signal on the gauge itself that is a sure sign of a big air pocket. Automotive temp sensors do not read air temp very well and are designed to be immersed in fluid. I have run into that a bunch of times.
  • dan_kochdan_koch Posts: 9
    yea im sure its not a air pocket i got all of the air out of the cars system it was doing good holding a good temp and when i drove less that one mile it was all the way up and shooting fluid out of the reservoir
  • madrona1madrona1 Posts: 2
    My 1996 Subaru Legacy Wagon (119000mi) overheated for the first time. I took it in and they said it needed a new water pump... They put one in, along with a new timing belt.

    It ran fine for two days and this morning it didn't want to start the first time (not uncommon in cool weather), started the second time and then there was a loud pop and the car was running really rough and sounded awful.

    Drove it to the garage that did the work (3 blocks) and when I turned it off and got out the car kept running. Looked like some white smoke coming out of the exhaust, never saw that before.

    The car wouldn't turn off until they disconnected the negative battery terminal. They had installed the new battery for me 4 months ago, it had quite a bit of white powdery corrosion on the neg. terminal and I noticed that the front clamp that holds the battery was completely disconnected so the battery was moving around. They said they hadn't disconnected the battery for the timing belt/water pump procedure.

    They say they think it's an unrelated electrical problem and will get back to me. Could this be related to the timing belt/water pump fix? I never had white smoke before that and didn't have oil in the coolant either (didn't look at that when I left it at the garage today).

    Any advice is greatly appreciated!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    White smoke, loud pop, rough idle.... I'd say the car either blew a head gasket, threw a rod, or something similar. White smoke means there is significant coolant getting into the cylinder(s), so that is a real problem. I think I would label this one as a catastrophic failure.

    It could be related to the fix, but it is really hard to say. More likely is that you had a head gasket issue (that caused the overheating) and it was misdiagnosed as the water pump. If so then that work essentially did nothing to address the root problem.
  • madrona1madrona1 Posts: 2
    Thanks, turns out it was the starter... it went out with a bang!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Really.... well, that is a first!
  • now that the weather is getting warmer my car overheated last week. replaced the thremostat yesterday and it ran fine. went to the store today and it overheated again. dont know what is wrong. please help.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    edited April 2010
    Subaru's thermostat is unique and aftermarket TStat won't meet Subaru's spec on Open / Close ... be sure to buy the factory TStat.

    Radiator cap is cheap, replaced with a new one also.

    Coolant goe through heater core. If there is H.C. problem then it'll block the flow of coolant, thus overheat. I think there is a by-pass short-cut the coolant to flow back without get into cabin heat sys to pinpoint this rpoblem. Use hand to feel warm and cold of hoses might tell also.
  • doc54doc54 Posts: 1
    so, what a nightmare, three different foriegn garages and one dealership and still over-heats!!!!!!!!!

    New radiator, waterpump, thermostat, head gasket and all the other stuff that a dealership does when replacing gaskets. Cost at dealership in S. Carolina $2o22.47 and still overheats-Great hey?

    Overheated leaving the dealerhip about 25 miles away after being on the highway, got off the expressway and temp guage went sky high, called dealership and they recommended getting a new thermostat. Still overheats.

    Anyway, do not want to put much more money into it with almost 200.000 miles. Good enough to run wife to work about two miles each way. Still feel like i was burnt.

    Auto Zone worker felt it might be a hairline crack in the head or block and when it gets hot the crack opens up, dispells the fluid and sucks air and gets hot. When cold crack closes and i end up adding anti-freeze. Damn and i love the handling but probably won't get another one...
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    The dealership did the head gasket work , it still overheats, and they will not warrant the repair? That sounds suspicious to me and I would contact Subaru of America about it.
  • kidalikidali Posts: 17
    Out of curiosity, how much did it cost to have the head gaskets replaced?
    Mine seems fine at the moment, but at 206,000 km, I'm a little worried (97)
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    I replaced the head gaskets myself; the total cost was about $550, which included a new timing belt and pulleys (the lion's share of the expense). I think I estimated, at the time, that the work for me was about 18 labor hours. Commercially, I think full (both) head gasket replacements tend to run $1600 to $2000.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Thermostat has to be OEM because Subaru one is unique that aftermarket T-Stat is not same. Make sure you installed the OEM one.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    I heard people pay 1200 for HG replacement.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If you do both sides, that sounds about right.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    That's possible; it all depends on the rates and what is replaced. I would expect about twelve hours of labor plus whatever parts. The shop rate locally is currently $105 at most places, so the labor alone is going to put you at $1200.
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