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Ford Focus Hatchback ZX3 - Part X



  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    To all with questions about switching to synthetic gear lube in your 5-speed 'box, or your auto tranny, take some time to visit the Redline website and click on the detailed descriptions of each of their gearlubes and ATFs. These folks are well-espected, and know their stuff. You will learn quite a bit about the upside to synthetics, and you'll have a better idea of which product is right for you. Check your manual to see what Ford recommends, and Redline will have a corresponding synthetic to replace it (ex: Mercon ATF can be replaced by one of several products Redline makes).
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    Drebe, your description of the car wanting to move forward while in 1st gear with the clutch pedal depressed is characteristic of a failing clutch master cylinder. If the clutch master won't hold pressure in the line, its just like you were slowly easing up on the pedal - the car will creep off the line, since the clutch is partially engaging. If making several quick strokes to the clutch pedal allows easier shifting (essentially, you are "pumping the system up"), I'd say you found your problem - failed seals in the clutch master cylinder. Keep in mind that the master cylinder creates pressure that acts on the slave cylinder, so it is possible for the problem to be at the slave... or both. Good luck - your dealer needs to do a system pressure test and make this right.
  • twatkins1twatkins1 Posts: 1
  • pcleveland2pcleveland2 Posts: 516
    This is in your owners manual, Page 247. Use these specifications in choosing lubricants for you Focus ZX3s with 2.0L Zetec-E engine. You don't just throw in any lubricant and think it will work. The specifications should be marked on the lubricant container or available from the refiner in his product information sheets.

    Engine Oil must meet Ford Specification WSS-M2C153-G with API Certification Mark. Also see page 181 in owners manual.

    Oil Filter, Motorcraft FL2005 for 2.0L Zetec-E engine. Aftermarket filter must meet Ford material and design specifications of the FL2005 filter. You need to have the Motorcraft and the aftermarket filter catalog to determine this.

    Auto Transaxle Fluid must be "MERCON V" and meet Ford Specs WSS-M2C202-B.

    Manual Transaxle IB5 Fluid must be "Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid" and meet Ford Specification WSD-M2C200-C. *See Note 1 below.

    Manual Transaxle MTX 75 must be "MERCON" and meet Ford Specifications "MERCON". *See Note 1 below.

    Brake Fluid: Ford or equivalent, High performance DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. For service Ford recommends Super DOT 4 for manual transmissions. Each has different spec. See page 247.

    Gasoline Octane: Ford recommends 87 Octane (Regular Unleaded) determined by the "(R+M)/2" Method and should be labled on the Gasoline Pump.
    Vehicles certified to meet Calif. Emission Standard are designed to operate on "Calif reformulated gasoline". If not available it can be operated on non-Calif gasoline - BUT the performance of the emission control devised and systems may be adversely affected.

    *Note 1: Your manual transaxle type should be listed on your Safety compliance label and if it isn't your dealer should be able to obtain it from your VIN number. I don't know which manual transaxle is used on the ZX3 because I got the auto transaxle. Maybe someone else can tell us which it is.

    Hope this clears up what you can and can't do concerning aftermarket lubricants and fuels. As long as the product you choose meets ford specifications and is equivalent you should be okay in using it.

    As far as fuel/gasoline goes, try to stay with a locally "branded" (Kwik-fill, Marathon, Sheetz, are a few on east coast) chain, or nationally "branded" (Mobil, Sun, Exxon, Shell). Stay with the newer stations with newer tanks. Try to purchase from the same station all the time.

    Sorry for such a long post

  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    twatkins1, if your rim "scratches" are what's commonly referred to as "curb rash" (from pulling too close to the curb and scuffing your wheel and tire against the concrete) - there's little you can do short of having the wheel refinished. ZX3 alloy wheels are finished with silver paint and clearcoat, much like the finish on the body of the car. If you abrade the rim, you've scraped off the paint, and most likely gouged the soft aluminum alloy as well. My advice would be to find another (undamaged) wheel from a wrecking yard. Foci are starting to turn up in salvage yards, and these wheels should be available for the same or less than the typical cost of refinishing -- around $100 or less per wheel. Just make sure any used wheel you find is straight and true, and has no visible cosmetic flaws. Several folks have upgraded to 16 or 17 inch wheels, and may want to sell their stock wheels - do some checking around.
  • zx3beastzx3beast Posts: 661
    silver - i think you just nailed it.with the additional info drebe provided it seems not to be
    normal as one poster implied and disagreed.i was
    hoping for drebes sake that nothing was
    never seemed right that all of a sudden,after driving the 5spd.that he would forget how to shift
    in + out of gears.anytime there is doubt about what
    is or isnt normal should be addressed immediately
    with the dealer.once any component of the clutch goes,forget it about it,your stuck.
  • All,

    Will hopefully be buying a new black zx3 Monday...the dealer didn't
    have any on the lot, but did locate 2 in south ga (i'm in atlanta).

    2 questions for ya, if ya'll don't mind...

    1) If the dealer is hacing the car brought in from 200 miles away, do
    I pay extra for that?

    2) For the zx3 I want, the msrp will be around 14.8k..what is a good
    price to get...i was thinking of offering 14k....

    thanks in advance for your help!

  • fgaydosfgaydos Posts: 319
    I would not pay extra for it, after all he is putting 200 miles on it.
    As for making an offer? It costs you nothing to make offers. So do it, what do you have to lose?
  • superf22superf22 Posts: 54
    first of all go to
    that shows invoice prices, add up all the options and then make offers starting at a couple hundred below invoice and work your way up. I understand this cars are going pretty fast, the demand is much higher than the supply so don't feel bad if you end up having to pay 3 or 4% over invoice, but it doesn't hurt to offer less. and don't pay for the delivery trip, like
  • superf22superf22 Posts: 54
    like fgaydos said, they're putting 200 miles on it, so don't let them charge you for it. I'm sure everyone will agree. enjoy!
  • pcleveland2pcleveland2 Posts: 516
    It's part of his cost of doing business! Even if he trucks it in. If he wants the sale, he'll eat the cost somehow. Dealers move vehicles around all the time and don't add the cost to the sale, but somehow, somewhere it gets added.

    The link Superf22 gave has excellent, must know, information in it. Like a bible for buying a new focus or any other vehicle for that information.

  • i got my zinc zx3 on wednesday. i get my tint this thursday, and neon lights on wednesday:)
  • zx3zx3 Posts: 167
    You wrote.....
    "*Note 1: Your manual transaxle type should be
    listed on your Safety compliance label and if it
    isn't your dealer should be able to obtain it fromyour VIN number...."

    Where do I find "Safety Compliance label"?
  • zx3zx3 Posts: 167
    Welcome, to Club Z !!
    Best of luck, many happy miles in your new ride. Don't let the Bumble Bees catch you (they might think you're a big yellow flower!).
  • rgarnerrgarner Posts: 37
    I know, the last thing you guys/gals want to discuss is more tranny noise issues. Sorry, but I'm determined to find out what the noise is:

    1-Does anybody have any more ideas on what the "diesel" noise at low RPM's could be? Is is a rattle, something else? More importantly, does it sound serious?

    2-My tranny noise comes and goes, but I noticed the following thing today. After starting my Z she had the slight tranny noise while sitting in neutral. The noise is a subtle rick-tick-tick. However, if I try to engage the gears without using the clutch (just slightly pressing the shifter up), the noise goes away. Conversely, times when I start her and she doesn't make the tranny noise in neutral, I can replicate the noise by slightly pressing the shifter up. Weird, huh?

    On another note, I plan on leaving for my long awaited vacation in two weeks. I plan on changing the oil for the first time before I leave, but is there anything else I should check on (approx. 1000 miles on her when I leave). Since I'm nervous about driving her such a long distance (due to past problems), are there any precautionary measures I can take in advance?
  • jwkessler1jwkessler1 Posts: 99
    rgarner - Be sure you have the oil change and any other work done a few days before you leave so you can detect and correct any screwups before you hit the road. It's not very likely, but some times goofy things happen, like forgetting to tighten the oil filter. It happened to my dad once years ago. He had an oil change done just before going on a long trip. The garage forgot to tighten the drain plug, and the oil light came on on the New England turnpike. Dad was most unhappy.

    The tick tick sounds more like a minor annoyance to me then anything to be really concerned about. Don't obsess over it. Enjoy the trip.

    In my younger days A friend and I frequently made non-stop drives from Winston Salem NC to Alamorgodo NM (1500 miles and 52 hours each way) in an old VW Beetle. That was an adventure. And I lived to tell about it. On one trip the starter gave out and we had to push start the car every time we stopped for gas.

    I think your Focus will prove to be a lot more reliable then that old beetle.

    < I plan on leaving for my long awaited
    < vacation in two weeks. I plan on changing
    < the oil for the first time before I leave.
This discussion has been closed.