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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • My throttle was sticking closed after sitting at idle, like while I was waiting for a light to change. I examined the operation of the throttle valve, which seems to be a butterfly valve plate that rotates inside of a circular tube, similar to the classic carb. Evidently, the problem was that the plate was closing too far and binding against the inner wall. This could be demonstrated without the engine runnning by pushing on the throttle to close it tightly, which would cause it to stick. Pushing it closed lightly caused it to stick slightly, so there was a correlation indicating this as the problem. The solution is simple. Just adjust the limit screw that keeps the plate from fully returning and getting stuck. You will find the screw right on top of the throttle assembly, with a small nut to lock it in place.
    All of the discussion about cleaning the throttle body seems pointless and over-complicated, if my solution works.
  • Steve, I'm trying to replace my 2000 Quest driver power window switch. I clicked on your picture file name in the post #1825, but there is no picture posted. Your pictures will be very helpful.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,936
    I put one pic up in one of my CarSpace albums. Here's the direct link. If you need something different let me know and I'll borrow the camera again.

    Mine is starting to act up again. :sick: I'm going to try the electrical contact cleaner spray soon and try to avoid cutting into it again.

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  • I got only one picture, but it seems like you posted more detailed pictures in the post # 1825 (?). I think that'll be more helpful than the one you posted. Those pictures in the post # 1825 can't be downloaded any more.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,936
    I just checked my photos on my computer and that's the same one that's in the album; the rest of mine are similar - just show the cutting into the plastic to expose the switch. Here's one of the side of the switch:

    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

    Getting the switch out of the door is easy; one screw hidden under a little plastic cap in the handle as I recall removes the whole handle section(don't have the van handy today). Then you can unscrew the switch from the handle section and unhook the wiring harnesses.

    Someone posted about flooding the switch with the contact cleaner so I would try that before taking a hacksaw to the switch. I don't see that post but here's one where an owner was able to get to the innards without destroying the top like I did:

    sparky_b, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems" #1909, 29 Jun 2005 8:37 pm

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  • Your new picture was very helpful. At least now I can see how I can replace the whole switch unit for around $80, if I happen to break the top, although I'll try my engine throttle cleaner to clean the contact first, since the engine throttle cleaner is supposed to clean any carbon on a surface.

    Here are a couple of legendary issue with Nissan Quest.

    After I was ripped off for the blower motor resistor when A/C works only at high speed, I decided to repair as much as I can. I paid about $150 to replace the blower motor resistor, but after I realized it's an easy repair, I replaced it for myself at the second time when the resistor didn't work. The resistor costed me about $40.

    The other issue I had was a lower ball joint. I live right next to the Nissan Tech Center in Farmington Hills of Michigan. The lower ball joints are notorious for its fast wear. Other than low fuel economy, I like my Quest.

    Thank you for your quick help. I really appreciate it.
  • Steve, last night I tried to clean the contact inside the switch, but found out it's very hard to access to the innards. I better spend $70 to buy the switch unit.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,936
    Rats. I just purchased some contact cleaner about an hour ago. Guess I'll give it a shot anyway - maybe drill a hole in it.

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  • My van gets jerky when the air is on and only seems to do it at a stop light or sign. Any answers to why that would be? :confuse:
  • Does anyone know the order of bleeding for the 1997 Villager? Is it the same as the 95?
  • I had the same problem, more prevelent in colder temps. I replaced the U-turn hoses (1/4" or 5/16" I think) at the ends of the injector manifolds and cured the problem.
  • i have a 98 village and i am trying to change the right side axle but i have come across a problem, it is hard to get it -the axle- to come out of the bracker in the middle between the transmation and the wheel hub, it is like it's fused together and i need some help in getting lose, any advace out there
  • I have a '99 Quest and the passenger side sliding door is not opening and closing properly. Does anyone know how to get to the top rear hinge? There is a plastic body panel above the channel the hinge rides in, but it is not obvious how you remove it. It seems if that panel comes off I will be able to get to the inside hinge bolts which I think have come loose. Anyone been down this road before?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,936
    My '99 just has one top hinge and none of the bolts appear to be hidden by any panels. Maybe mine is a bit different from yours. I took a couple of photos since I'm not clear exactly what part you are referring to:

    upper hinge 1

    upper hinge 2

    I haven't messed with the sliding door panels. My service manual is pretty vague. To remove the lower panel you first take off the escutcheon thingy around the door handle. It has 5 clips you pry off. Then you pry off the rest of the panel - there are 10 of those around the edges holding the panel on.

    The narrow upper part of the sliding door panel is held on with three metal clips above the door handle towards the front of the door.

    All it says about removal for all these clips is to wrap the tip of a flat-bladed screwdriver with a cloth. I guess you just start prying.

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  • thanks, I probably am not being too clear here. The panel I am referring to is actually on the outside of the van. It is just above the channel that the door hinge slides along as you open it. (just below the side rear window) I believe if I can get that panel off I can check the tightness of the hinge. The problem I have is that when you open the door, you need to pull out on the left side of it for it to open. I can take a picture of what I am talking about tomorrow as it will probably make more sense.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,936
    Ok, try these two pics and see if they help:

    Waist roller assembly

    Waist rail

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  • Thanks, this looks like what I am trying to get at. I am guessing the screws that hold this thing on can be accessed from the interior of the van, probably by removing the trim panels next to the third row seat. Sound about right?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,936
    It's hard to tell but it looks like there are 3 bolts under the trim that hold the channel cover on. I took a couple more photos, but I don't have anything in the manual about what's behind the rear trim panel. Maybe you can save the photos and blow them up and make them a bit more legible.

    Side Trim

    Slider adjustments

    Billandy202, hope you figured out your axle out ok. I just have a '99 manual and don't remember too much of a struggle when I did my RF axle a while back.

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  • thanks- I think I should start by pulling off the door panel and seeing if I can make the necessary adjustments that way. The diagram you sent is helpful. What book did that come out of? I tried to find the shop manual for this van at our local library yesterday but they did not have it.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,936
    I got a factory service manual when I got my van. It was a bit spendy (~$120), especially since I'm not much of a mechanic. Factory manuals for newer cars seem to be running around $300, so next time I'll just wait and buy a Haines manual if I get ambitious about trying to fix something.

    I understand Hyundai has (or had; my link is dead) factory manuals on line for free, which is how they all should be. ;)

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