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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • gnartgnart Posts: 36
    My new 2001 Quest SE exhibits a high pitch air drawing noise when I press on the pedal. This noise can be heard when the windows are closed, the A/C on and the air vent dial to draw air. The more gas I feed it to go from the stop position, the higher the pitch. Does anyone know what's the cause of this and has anyone seen/heard of similar symptom on the new vehicle. I have not taken in the vehicle in yet.

    Thanks in advance.
  • kuljinderkuljinder Posts: 3
    I just bought a 1994 Nissan Quest XE, I have 168000 kilometers on it. My question is when I sit in the back seat or the middle seat, I hear this low pitch humming sound. I'm very curious because I just bought this vehicle a little over a month ago. So if you can please help me thank you. You could email me at k_gakhal@hotmail.com

    Thanx Alot
    Kuljinder
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,052
    I think the hum is your fuel pump. It may just be noticeable to you. Or it may be about to go, or perhaps the fuel filter is clogged. I don't hear mine.

    (gnart - no clue).

    Steve
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  • wg45678wg45678 Posts: 55
    You didn't tell us what kind of vibration. Is is side to side, up/down? Does it get worse with more speed or smooth out?

    The dealer is definitely shining you on with the
    tire mismatch excuse. He simply doesn't want to find it. Go to some other Nissan dealer. Be sure to note to them the type of vibration and when it occurs (normal driving, braking, etc). YOu could have a balance problem (tires, wheels, driveshafts), a tire out of round problem, or you could have a shimmy from a bad tire, bad alignment or other steering part problem.

    FYI: A shimmy you will usually just feel in the steering wheel as a side to side oscillation at a particular speed range. A balance problem you will feel in the steering wheel with a up/down fore/aft motion and you'll feel it in the seat and floorboards.
  • kuljinderkuljinder Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 Nissan Quest XE, my question is that when i hit the brakes lightly when i'm stopping at a traffic light or something, i hear this grinding noise. I think it's the brakes. Can someone please give me some advice on this problem!!!

    Thanx
  • gnartgnart Posts: 36
    My '01 Quest, 800 miles on it, exhibits the same symptom as NYcommuter1 post #649. Intermittently on starting, it makes a funny noise. It sounds like the starter. It does this only once for the day. Does anyone else experience this?

    NYcommuter1 did you ever find out what the problem was?

    Also, does anyone know if the fabric seats have been scotch guarded at the factory or should I have it scotch guard?

    How about treatment on the car to keep the bird dropping (I had to remove the explicit in order to post this message - Townhall user's agreement :>) acid from eating or discoloring the clear coat?

    Thanks in advance for your input.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Sounds to me like it may be that you just need to have your brakes cleaned, or you may need new pads.


    Drew
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  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    Most (if not all) new cars probably come with scotchguard on the seats already, as is with carpets. This is also the reason why dealers don't sell the "scocthguard treatment" anymore - it's common knowledge (as makers may require it of seat/carpet material suppliers). It's not a big seller since it's RESISTANT and not STAIN-PROOF, much like nobody advertises under-coating anymore (it's a given). Of course, once in a while someone will come over and "its got the optional clearcoat protection for only $800". Do yourself a favor and get a can for $4 (just remember, kids CAN stain anything).
    If you let it sit long enough, there is NO defense against bird-drops and tree-saps (apply some car wax over it and clean it off).
  • gnartgnart Posts: 36
    Thanks for the input gasguzz. The wax doesn't seem to do anything for the offcolor of what seems to be bird dropping. It may be factory paint problem. I will talk to the dealer to see what come off of it.

    Thanks again for the input.
  • I had a 95 Villager that would shaken @ 45 mph like the entire thing was running down a washboard road at 70 mph. It only happened if the back brakes wee ever adjusted. They were trying to lock up. Traded it for 2000 Vilager below.

    My 2000 Villager has GY Eagle LS 225x60 R16 and the belts on all 4 tires had separated laterally before 10K that was causing vibrations. Replaced them and had one to separate at the tread and side wall. I finally replaced them with Firestone FT-70c.
  • I have had problems with the headlight wiring harness. Light worked when it wanted to or I could jiggle the socket and it would come on. I had a Ford place to work on it twice without any luck (while on vacation). Took it the local Merc. dealer, the harness was replaced. Hope that will fix it for good.
  • According to Nissan, clunk will occur after sitting for several days w/o starting the engine. They say (according to service writer who called Nissan today) that it has to to with trying to pump the freon, and will not cause any lasting problems. Sounds like BS to me. Seems like bearings in A/C don't stay lubed and freeze up after sitting for several days. Any other opinions out there?
  • Any other 2001 SE owners get a vibration (like tires are out of balance) above 45 MPH? Mine did right out of the showroom, and after trying to get Goodyear and Nissan to settle the "Who is at fault" issue, I got Nissan to buy new Michelins. They solved the problem immediately. Goodyear said they had a bulletin from "Ford" (builds it) stating that the suspension is so tweaked that it will require special tires that must be hand-picked off the line. Nissan denied that, but bought the tires, after I had four sets of Goodyears on during the first week. Its the Goodyear tires that suck. The van handles unbelieveably well after the switch (I had a 95 Quest prior to this one).
  • My 99 Estate is going in the shop for the second time for a sway bar replacement in the 34000 mi. I've had this Van (which drives very well) I've had the 2 Sway bars, 1 Radio, 1 Remote control and a part for a broken back seat replaced. I really hate to see it go off warrenty. Looking very hard at a Kia EX.
  • miabmiab Posts: 1
    I have been having problem with power locks for sometime and now my power windows,locks does not work at all and dash board lights are gone.I also watched CBS news reporting about villager abd Quest vans power lock problems.Why isn't there any recalls on it?
  • Just got off the phone with the dealer about the remote on my Villager Estate. They had to order a new one . Also the piviot on the rear seat come in. They ordered it last MAY. Still waiting on the sway bar bushings that have already been replaced once. That 10 year warrenty on the Kia looks good to me.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    Not to dispute anyone but that's unusual to me... How can a tire from the same (rubber-stamp) production line be "better" than the one following it. Isn't that the Ford/Firestone blame scenario. The wife's 01-VillSport has the same 225/60-16 LS Eagles (which I just rotated at 5k) and it runs smooth and wears evenly. Could there be quite possibly a bad batch. What psi are you running with (I'm at 40) - could there be "sweet spot".
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    According to the information on my 99 SE quest, the manufacturer recommends 35 psi on both front and rear tires ( 225/60-16 LS Eagles). That's actually what is stated on label in my glove box.

    No problems with vibration on my tires, but according to my service advisor there have been some reported problems with tire vibration on these tires. So maybe there is a bad batch out there.

    Revka
    (formerly "pocahontas")
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  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    True on the psi (says on the glove box and was delivered at that spec). The tires are rated for 44(45?) max. Per our load/driving use, I set it at 40psi.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    they're figuring in factors such as the weight of the vehicle and etc. I was always told to go by the manufacturer recommended psi, not the specs on the side wall. Of course if your tires have been doing fine, not too much wear in the middle, then perhaps there's no need to worry. May not be a bad idea for people to check with their Nissan service on this. Happy Motoring. ;-)

    Revka
    (formerly "pocahontas")
    Host
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  • My SE's tires Eagle LS are also rated for 45 psi Max. Just like gasguzz, I have set it to 40 psi. Origninally the van was delivered with 35 psi. Since I had never checked the glove compartment; I thought the Dealer made a mistake in pumping it to 35 psi. I guess we are OK as long as it is within the tire manufacturer's range. As suggested by pocahontas (Revka), it is a good idea to check with Nissan.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    To faruqim & Gasguzz: Well I have heard that more air in the tires will improve the mpg? Have either of you noticed an improvement with the 40 psi? Although, I think it might also make for a firmer ride. Yes/no? I actually keep my rear tires a pound or two lower (33/34 psi) to soften the ride a little. I rotate them every 5k to prevent abnormal wear.

    To everyone- Since I've seen a few posts from people mentioning that they have to clean their throttle on a regular basis, because it has a tendency to stick..., I thought I should mention there is a TSB out on that. Here are the details.

    TSB number: NTB00-083, Date: October 17, 2000
    1999-00 QUEST DRIVEABILITY INCIDENTS / THROTTLE CHAMBER DEPOSITS

    APPLIED VEHICLE: 1999-00 Quest (V41)
    SERVICE INFORMATION
    If a 1999-00 Quest exhibits the driveability incidents listed below, the cause may be throttle chamber deposits.

    ^ Idle speed fluctuation
    ^ Incorrect idle speed
    ^ Increased accelerator pedal resistance
    ^ Difficulty accelerating smoothly from a stop

    SERVICE PROCEDURE
    1. Check for and clean throttle chamber deposits as follows:
    A. Disconnect the air inlet duct from the throttle chamber.
    B. Open the throttle valve and check for deposits. If deposits exist, use genuine Nissan carburetor spray cleaner (P/N 999MP-A3001P) and a toothbrush (if needed) to remove all deposits.
    C. Re-connect the air inlet duct.

    2. Check the engine oil level and correct as necessary. Also, advise the customer that it is important not to overfill the engine oil level (i.e., not above the "H" mark on the dipstick). Maintaining proper engine oil level (not overfilling) will help prevent recurrence of these incidents. Refer to the Owner's Manual for the proper engine oil level.

    3. Start the engine and let it warm up (coolant temp = 70°C/158°F minimum) before performing the next step.

    4. Check and adjust (if necessary) the base engine idle speed using CONSULT (in "Work Support" mode). Refer to the EC section in the Service Manual for procedure details and specifications.

    Btw, prior to this tsb, many dealers were charging their customers a maintenance fee to do this... as opposed to fixing it on the 36/36 warranty. Hope this is helpful.

    ;-)

    Revka
    (formerly "pocahontas")
    Host
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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Thanks for posting that. I've become very familiar with steps 1 A-C, having done it in my garage 3 or 4 times now.

    Good thing to know about the oil level. I change my own oil, and I've noticed that 4 quarts exactly brings it up to "full" on the dipstick. The recommended amount in the owner's manual is I believe 4 3/8 quarts. Since I've been using 4 quarts, I've noticed less of a buildup of deposits in the throttle body.

    Dave
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    Increased mpg at 40psi... probably (but at an insignificant amount I don't notice). I did notice increased traction response but at a stiffer ride (your choice, I prefer performance over comfort with the wife's/toddlers car). Is there an increase in road noise... probably (but it's not like the Quest/Villager is Lexus quiet to begin with).
    Car makers GENERALLY set psi specs to augment comfort and noise levels, and are conservative in not knowing the EXACT use at the consumer level. When the van was delivered I noticed the "soft profile" and sure enough they were set up to spec at 35psi. I tested them the following day (with the "normal" load minus the family) at 40psi and "now, they better". The Eagle-LS is a performance series and can be tweaked to fit your driving/use (meaning I would not use this setup if I regularly haul bags of Quikrete for 200 miles).
  • planning to buy a 93 villager with 72K miles on it.. the car looks in good condition.. any particular problems that i shud look for or worry about? 93 villager owners, any input?
    Also, whats a good price for this...
    thanks
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,052
    Check out Edmunds True Market Value for pricing info. And watch out for the manifold studs (click on Subtopics in the box to see the problems list).

    Steve
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  • Thanks Steve.. i am planning to purchase this from a private party.. i test drove it and checked whatever i cud visually do.. can u give me some tips about some specific things to look for.. how do i check those manifold studs?
    btw, ur site is very informative... great work
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,052
    Thank you but that's a different Steve running the Villager Quest FAQs :-) (if you do mean this Edmunds site, it's the Town Hall members that should take the credit).

    I'm no wrench turner. I'd suggest paying a mechanic to have the van looked at and let him or her check the manifold studs. Other stuff to look at in that vintage car (any car) would be the A/C, brakes, tranny, etc.

    The other specific Quest/Villager problems that I can recall off-hand are the door locks and a rough idle from a dirty throttle body. Good luck!

    Steve
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    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • jcorkjcork Posts: 3
    In response to #680, I have the same starting problems. Cranking the engine over and over, the van won't start. So I stop, turn the key off all the way, then try again and it usually starts after that. I have checked everything, I cannot find the problem. I am too cheap to take it to a dealer. I wonder if it is my ignition switch or something simple like that...
  • jcorkjcork Posts: 3
    Well, I spent a couple of hours here, reading every posting and I have to say that we all have something in common: A van that is like any other auto in the world - imperfect. However, I still like mine. Here is a list of problems I have had since day one:
    1. Brake squeal - 2 sets of pads and one rotor (driver side) later they still squeak.
    2. 105,000 mile timing belt went out at 70,000 miles. I replaced the water pump, serpentines, and an idler while I was at it.
    3. Fuel stench and leaking from tank, found out that there was a recall AFTER I paid $80 to get it fixed at dealer. Nissan reimbursed me after I called them and faxed the bill to them.
    4. Steering wheel squeals. Still does it, I don't care.
    5. Tranny had been slipping into what feels like "neutral" during traffic stop and go. Pops back into gear by itself. Had it flushed at 40k, and again at about 76k after this problem surfaced, seems to be ok now.
    6. Wont start sometimes. It cranks and cranks but doesn't fire up. I am still struggling with this one...
    7. Check engine light - found fried hose behind the EGR valve where you cannot see and you can barely get your hand into. This is after I replaced all hoses and the light still came on, took me 2-3 months to figger out. Car still ran fine with that crazy light on...
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