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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • Thank you all for the non-response to post #583. I've solved the problem on my own.
  • I have to disagree.

    1. If you "flush" your transmission every 25K miles, it's sure going to fail. When you flush a transmission, you tend to disturb the intricate things inside. It's better to just change the fluid according to the schedule in the manual and leave it alone.

    2. You do not need to change the oil every 3000 miles. Every study has shown that you can change the oil at 6000 mile intervals, even if you are driving a New York taxi.
  • I have a 1994 Nissan Quest. the check engine light comes on from time to time. when i triped the codes I got a response that it was the EGR valve silnoid or circuit fault. I checked the EGR and it seems to operate correct, when electric current is applied you can blow through the valve. anyone had this problem or know what I should check next?
  • sblumsblum Posts: 5
    Has anybody noticed Nissan stopped putting lock cylinders on the passenger side of their cars in 2001. I don't carry the remote with me because it is my wife's car and I have one on my key chain for my car. I have to open the car from the driver's side then walk around to the passenger side to put my 2 year old in her seat. NISSAN, How cheap can you get?
  • Have you checked the BPT hose connected to the EGR to make sure it's not broken????

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • Gee, on my 99 Quest, I don't think I used the physical keylocks at all. Just push the fob and the doors open nicely. Or maybe your van does not have the automatic door lock system??? Anyway, you walsked around the van when you bought it. I guess you just don't like your van and some other person is going to be the beneficiary of that.
  • Perhaps if you took the "Nissan Quest is the best van in the world" blinders off for a minute, you might notice that sblum explained that because he already has a transmitter for his own car on his keyring, he doesn't carry one for the Nissan. So, on the rare occasions he drives it, the lack of a keylock on the passenger's side is a bit of a nuisance...

    It does seem like a short-sighted cost-cutting measure by Nissan!!
  • sblumsblum Posts: 5
    I love my Quest. It is my third one. It just irks me that I have to take my wife's keys because Nissan cheaped out on installing a lock cylinder on the passanger side of the car. My 1997 Quest had a lock cylinder in both the passenger door and the rear sliding door. My 1999 has a lock cylinder in the passenger door only. That was OK because if you turned the key twice it opened all the doors. Now my 2001 only has a lock cylinder in the tailgate and the driver's door. What next? Are they going to rely on the transmitter and delete all the lock cylinder? I don't like it at all. But for now I love my 01 Quest!
  • I have a 2000 Nissan Quest and want to add some aftermarket fog lights. I have a set chosen by Hella but an not sure if the alternator and electronics of the car can handle the drain produced by running the fog lights at night. What is the amount of power drawn from the factory fog lights that Nissan provides? I did not order these fog lights so I am hoping to chose a pair taht have similar draw so that I dnot affect the electrical components of the car. Will 55 watt lights run oin the Quest without difficulty? I nkow the car has a 125 amp alternator which seems more than adequate to me. Any response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help.
  • Current draw can be calculated by dividing watts by volts, i.e. 55watts / 14 volts = 4 amps; or 8 amps for both lamps. I installed the Nissan fog lamps on my 2000 SE, but I don't know the lamp wattage (I would guess 55 watts each is about right). The wiring harness for the Nissan kit connects directly to the battery and is switched by a relay and dash-mounted rocker switch. Mine work perfectly - I haven't noticed any strain on the electrical system. I recommend you follow Nissan's design, using a relay and taking power directly from the battery (make sure a fuse is included, and is inserted in the power lead close to the battery!). The Nissan kit is complete, of high quality, and easy to install (time consuming though - it took me most of a day). I hope this helps -
  • In cold weather ("cold" here in Atlanta is about 40 degrees) I've noticed that the liftgate on my 2000 SE will not open all the way by itself, but requires a light push. Once open, it stays up fine. Has anyone else noticed this? Maybe mine has a weak strut? Thanks for any comments -
  • The struts used for hatchbacks, liftgates, etc. are gas charged units. When closed, the gas is compressed in a small chamber. As you open them, the pressure offers an "assist" to help open the gate, and provides enough resistance to keep it in the open position.

    As with all gases, those used in these struts are affected by temperature changes, so under cooler conditions, the gases contract, and as a result, don't exert as much pressure on the piston of the strut. So, the "assist" is a little less, but the resistance is still enough to hold the gate up.

    When they fail, not only will they not help you open the gate, they will also not hold it up. Have you ever seen someone with an Escort hatchback with a stick in the back? They use that to hold up the hatch!!!
  • Thanks, agt cooper - that makes sense. Only these struts just seem to be a little weaker than the ones in other vans I have owned ('99 Windstar, '96 Grand Caravan). In those vehicles the gates always opened fully with no assist, which makes me think I could have a defective strut.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,591
    I run into the same problem with my 99 Quest SE, I am forever hitting my head when the liftgate doesn't go up all the way in the winter. It took me a few bumps to the head to remember to push it up the rest of the way, mine will only go about half way on its own, the rest of the way I have to push it.
    Now onto the foglight issue. I recently had installed PIAA dual fog/driving lights onto my Quest, the driving lights are 55W but I will soon be putting in 130W bulbs. I have noticed no problems at all with it, other than the fact that they guy who put them on loosened one of the battery cables and that made the battery weak for cold starts, one trip to the Nissan dealer and a lecture from Chuck got it fixed. I plan on having another set of driving lights installed on the van next summer. Its dark a lot in the winter and the moose like to camp out in the road.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    is there a factory pre-wired connector behind the dash (so you don't have to go through the firewall) - when you use the nissan kit?
    where is the switch (the blank plug next to the cuise-off switch)?
  • The Nissan kit routes the lead from the rocker switch to the relay through the left wheel well (the plastic fender liner must be removed for access). It passes through an existing opening at the rear of the wheel well into the dash area behind the fuse box. The rocker switch replaces the blank plug next to the cruise-off switch. The kit includes a connector that taps into the headlight circuit. By the way, the Nissan foglight wiring harness is purchased separately - could probably be used with aftermarket lights.
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    I always shoot for a clean install - it's more reliable.
    "the Nissan foglight wiring harness is purchased separately"
    Is that the rocker switch and the wiring to the headlight tap connector? How much?
    On the fogs themselves, can you get just the lamps and the mounts? How much?
    What is the operational logic of the fogs (since it's tapped into the headlights), is it active only when the headlights are on high (or low)?
    Sorry for the many questions, but who knows more than the owner.
  • This week(ending 12-15-00) my Quest ended up in the shop(ref. posts 579,586). Regional tech. specialist came up from Atlanta for a test drive. He told the service manager that a new set of Michelins should solve the problem. He also said that Nissan makes some type of seat damper for the rear set of bucket seats that should help with the vibration(seems like the tires would take care of the entire problem, don't you think?). I'm definitely glad that Nissan is willing to do something however, I noticed a recent post(#446) where Joel Rapowitz stated that He has had a similar problem and the new Michelins did not fix the problem. So Joel, if you're out there and read this, let me know what has happened since then. I would be curious to take an informal survey of Quest owners on this forum to see if any of you have experienced any vibration problems that you notice while driving between 50-80mph.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,591
    I have a 99 Quest SE and the rear captain's chair on the driver's side has a horrible vibration, it has been to two different dealers and had the seat latches replaced, also I have put different tires on the van and nothing helped. I have finally given up on it and figure its just the way it is. The dealers don't know how to fix it. My van has 15,000 miles on it and its been that way since day one. The other captain's chair on the passenger side doesn't vibrate at all. Strange problems my van has!! Oh well, I love it.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,556
    See if you can find another van on the lot where the seat doesn't vibrate. Then swap that seat into your van and see what happens. That should at least prove if it is the van or the seat. If it is the seat, have them give you a replacement.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

This discussion has been closed.