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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • jr714jr714 Posts: 24
    I have a '93 Villager with 136K on it. I have owned it for 1 1/2 years, bought from 2nd owner at 117K. I have had 20K of pleasant nearly trouble free driving and my wife and I both like the car very much and want to keep it as long as possible. Right now I have 3 problems:

    1 - Shortly after buying I began hearing a loud exhaust noise and replacing the muffler did not help. By now the noise is quite loud and is annoying my wife. I have since read all of the previous postings regarding the exhaust manifold problem. I have had 3 estimates of $1000 or more, with all of them hesitant to do the work at all, though all were familiar with the problem. Today I had another mechanic look at it and he told me there are no bolts left on the manifold and one bolt missing from the head underneath. He said he will try to do the job without replacing the studs and this will cost considerably less - he said $300 max. When I asked him if this could cause a repeat problem within a year or so, he said he doesn't know. My wife and I really like this van and want to keep it as long as possible. Should I insist on replacing the studs as well? Will it help if he replaces the old bolts with heavier duty bolts?
    2- About 10K miles ago I began hearing a knocking noise right under my foot coming from the front end when accelerating from a stop and going over certain types of bumps on the road. Since then I have replaced the front struts (and paid an extra $150 to replace the strut bearings) and had the front end examined by 4 different mechanics. They all insisted there is nothing at all wrong, except 1 said it was a ball joint, but the next 1 said it is fine. I am at a loss. They all confirm hearing the noise but no one can find the problem. Anyone have any ideas?
    3- The front brake rotors were replaced about 50K ago and since then ground twice to alleviate shuddering. Nevertheless there has been a constant squeak and intermittent grinding noises coming from the wheels and about 10K ago the wheels emit a higher pitched squeak after 10 min. or so of driving only between 15 - 40 mph. Does anyone have any ideas about what this might be? The mechanics have offered no answer as of yet.
    Sorry about the length of the message. I have been hoping to solve these problems on my own with no success, so I elected to do 1 posting as opposed to 3 separate. Thank you for any help you could offer.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    Until someone knowledgeable pops in here, you guys may want to visit Carl Haines' or Steve Cutchen's page and see if anything there helps.



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  • okmomokmom Posts: 37
    The display on the radio/cd/cassette/clock on our 2000 Quest disappeared.
    Other than that everything else works perfectly.
    We are wondering it might be cheaper to get the radio/cd/cassette unit w/ free installation at the local electronic shop.(~$150)
    Can Any units that sell at the electronic shops works on my Quest? Ours has the control on the wheel....
    Thanks
  • I have a 98 Quest that has a noise that is driving me crazy. The noise is coming from the lower windshield area and begins anywhere from 60 mph to 75 mph (especially if there is a head wind). It sounds like a teapot boiling or air squealing out of a balloon. Any suggestions on what might be causing it or how to fix it would be greatly appreciated, it's torture on a long drive.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    The radio display may be repaiable. Try checking with a local car stereo installation place, they may know how to get it fixed.

    Or, you may have to send the unit in to the manufacturer to get it fixed. It wouldn' hurt to check with you dealer's service department too.

    Try searching back a while in this topic, if you can't find anything here try searching the VillagerQuest archives at groups.yahoo.com. I know I have read of someone describing how they got this fixed, I just don't remember the specifics.

    Good luck.

    Dave
  • From what I have read on this forum ,the radio display going out is a common problem. I had the unit replaced on my 99 villager while it was still under warrenty for this problem.
  • Problems noted after 48K:
    1. Horn doesn't blow when securing vehicle with key fab.
    2. Stereo doesn't display stations. Burned out led display.
    3. Brake light kept coming on. Have to keep brake fluid high to keep light off.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,434
    the problem (usually) is loose connections. I had a radio shop fix mine (make sure it is a quality repair operation - the one I used did repairs for the dealer). They needed to re-solder the connections, and now it works fine. Much cheaper than a new factory unit.

    Depending which set up you have, getting an after market replacement can be problematic. You have to worry about steering wheel radio controls, rear jacks, CD changer, etc. Probably not as much of an issue with the base unit.

    Asthetically, the factory unit will look much cleaner than another brand. But get what you want.

    The radio shop can give you real options (repair vs. replace), but the repair charge should run about $100 - $150, depending on location.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    Your remote should be programmable to enable or disable the horn when securing the vehicle. I actually disabled mine as I didn't like the horn honking when I secured my Villager.

    If you brake fluid is low, your pads are probably wearing. The Villager/Quest is a heavy vehicle and the pads do wear faster than on lighter vehicles (at least mine do). Make certain that your brake pads are still in good shape when you top up the fluid.
  • Like many Quest owners, I experienced the radio display and the wiper swipe problems. The radio has been replaced twice by the dealer. The first replacement lasted about 3 days until the display went out again. The second is now into its 5th month; I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
    (Total waiting time for both units: about 5 months!)

    Still struggling with the wipers, though. The combination switch was replaced 11 months ago, while the van was still under warranty, but a couple of months ago the gremlins were back. The nature of the problem is intermittent: some days the wipers activate by themselves almost every time I use a turn signal, while other days everything is fine.

    The dealer keeps telling me that they have to have it happening consistenlty in order for them to even start troubleshooting it. I have the following questions for the folks who have successfully repaired this wiper swipe problem in their Quests (mine is a '99 SE, by the way):
    1) Have you had the combination switch replaced more than once in the same vehicle?
    2) Was the cause of the problem ever attributed to anything other than the combo switch?

    Appreciate any advice.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    No to both questions, Mdrabkin. My replacement still works fine. ('99 GXE).

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  • Hi,

    I have a 99 Quest, and the right head light does not operate, I have checked the fuses, replaced the lamp, and checked the relacement lamp to make sure it was good.

    My right headlight still does not operate. Any suggestions on what I should check next? The owner manual mentions checking a fuselink if the fuse is good and the device still does not operate, can anyone tell me what fuselink is and where it is located on the Quest.

    Thanks
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    My trouble shooting guide says to check the bulb (ok, check that one off!), then check the 15A fuse (No. 36 located in fuse and fusible link box under hood on driver's side). Verify battery voltage is present at terminal 5 of headlamp control unit. Then check grounds at both lamps and the combination switch.

    Zilch mentioned about a fusible link in the lamp checklist (they do exist naturally)....

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  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    Try wiggling the wires that come out of the headlight housing while the lights are switched on. If it lights up, you likely have a bad socket for the bulb. This is a common issue with '99 Villagers. The dealer replaced both of my headlight sockets under warranty.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    Getting a creaking sound from the driver side when I go over bumps at slow speed. The radio has to be off to hear the noise. Van has 46k. I don't get excessive bounce from the shocks. I'm assumming the shocks are original. Anyone have any ideas? What is the life expectancy of shocks for these vans.
  • You may want to check the bushings on your front anti-sway bar. This has been a source of strange low speed creaking sounds in the Villager/Quest.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    Thanks for response. Forgive my ignorance with anti-sway bar, do you lube it, replace the bushings or does the bar need to be replaced. If a anti-sway needs to be replaced what is an estimated cost for having the job done. I'm not exactly mechanically proficient.
  • My 2001 Quest SE had this problem after about 7500 miles. The dealer relaced and lubed the bushings and that cured the problem.....for now.
  • Thanks Steve and Kymike,

    Wiggling the headlight cable and pushing firmly on the socket worked. The light is now functioning without any problem. I even removed the cable, moved it in different directions, put the socket back onto the bulb, and it still works.

    Thanks so much.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    I think Kymike's practical advice was much better than the stuff quoted from my manual :-) Glad to hear it's working.

    I just did an oil & filter change and reglued my driver's side mirror for the 3rd time (hedge busted the glue joint this time ).

    If I can get past another oil change I'm gonna start hinting that mine is reliable (at 73,000 miles now).

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  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    If the "wiggle trick" worked, it just means that you have a bad connection or short in the wiring. If you are still under warranty, I would suggest having the dealer look at it to see if the wiring is about to go. If not, you can take your chances, but I still would have it fixed before it goes out again when it can inconvenience you the most.

    The "wiggle trick" was a temporary fix for me as well, but the intermittent problem of going out continued.

    Best of luck.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    It sounds like it's that time again - getting the metalic "warning" noise from the front pads. 22,000 miles on this offbrand set.

    Is it a given that I need to replace the rotors too (they were resurfaced once before)?

    Everyone still liking the Raybestos pads vs the OEM ones (the Bendix ones sound like they create a lot of dust)?

    Thanks!

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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    No experience with the Raybestos pads, I replaced mine with OEM Nissan. From what I've heard online they are good too.

    As far as resurfacing the rotors, you probably will have to replace them, but maybe not. If you take it in the shop should be able to mike them and tell if they can be turned again. If they didn't go too nuts last time you may be OK.

    Dave
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    Thanks Dave - they only seem to squeal when my wife drives it (worked fine for me this evening). I think I'll eyeball the pads tomorrow and then think about getting parts or heading to the dealer. Would you do yours again?

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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    If I had it to do over again, I'd try the Raybestos pads. The Nissan pads are good, they are quiet and wear well, but I think some more stopping power would be good. IIRC, someone on the Villagerquest list liked the Raybestos pads for better stopping.

    I replaced my rotors with new Nissan ones when I did it. Could have had them turned, but I've had bad luck with that in the past. Next time I need to do the brakes (if we still have the van) I will take the old rotors to a machine shop or auto parts store & have them turned.

    Dave
  • dhoff - If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the OEM disks and pads? Are the Raybestos components cheaper?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    Now that I've flopped one of the front wheels off to eyeball stuff, I see there's a whole lot of brake dust in there. Maybe that's causing the squealing I'm hearing. The disk looks pretty smooth with the eyeball test :-). Maybe I can get by with some more deferred maintenance, at least until the brake light comes on again, (or until my wife makes the appointment at Midas for me, LOL).

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  • Steve - The nice thing about the 16 inch alloys that came with my 2001 SE is that the eyeball test can be done without removing the wheel. Aren't you jealous? :-)
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,417
    But the rubber for your van costs more! I'm more jealous of your opening hatch window ;-)

    btw, I didn't remove my pads, but I crammed my dial caliper in there as best I could and it looks like I have ~5mm of pad left, or almost 50%.

    Here's hoping my hosing the brake dust out quiets it down.

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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Dust will make them squeal! Don't worry about it until you hear the metal squeaker thing.

    Corsicachevy, I ordered my brake rotors and pads online from Courtesy Nissan. I don't remember how much it was, but if you go to their website & poke around a bit, you can get the prices. I think the rotors were about $75 each, and the pads about $45, but that's jsut ballpark.

    Dave
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