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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,618
    Thanks Dave, I'm gonna let them ride for a while. I wish I knew what brand they were -- dealer put them on but they're definitely not OEM's, and definitely dusty. We went lots more miles on the first set of pads, but that was before the van turned into a daily commuter with more stop and go driving.

    Steve
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  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    My '99 Estate has about 35,000 mile on it. For those who have put a lot of mileage on their Villagers, when did you change out shocks / struts? Are there any good options for aftermarket that will outperform factory parts? I think that the ride is just a little bit "cushy" and I would like to have a firmer ride (not certain if my wife would agree).

    I will admit that I put Midas shocks on my previous Villager at about 75,000 miles. They were cheap and worked about as well as the factory shocks.
  • guillguill Posts: 94
    Mike, I just had new Monroe Sensatrac struts/shocks installed on my 99 Quest at SEARS for $264. Price included a sale and a 10% off coupon. My Quest has 48K miles and the OEM struts/shocks seemed too "cushy" (read sloppy) also. These Monroes are fantastic, the ride has firmed up, yet not harsh at all, realy improved the control and eliminated the excessive bouncing and swaying.
  • guillguill Posts: 94
    Forgot to mention, Monroes have lifetime guarentee parts and labor.
  • jr714jr714 Posts: 24
    Hi, anyone here know if a rear exhaust manifold for a '94 Quest will work on a '93 Villager?
  • Mike, I can recommend the Gabriel struts. Monroe Sensatracs were available at O'Reillys and AutoZone had the Gabriel Gas Ryders both brands similar with lifetime warranty, but the AutoZone is closer for me and therefore I do more business with them. On the wife's 97 Quest with 60,000+ miles the left strut mount and bearing failed during a particular brutal highway trip back to the Buffalo area. Since I had to replace the left mount and bearing anyway I went ahead and put the new Gabriel Gas Ryder struts on and they are wonderful! It isn't a particularly difficult repair so I did it myself, but as a practical matter as guill mentioned the repair shops will generally have a promotion on the labor and/or parts. In fact the last time I stopped by one of the Monroe shops Monroe had a promotion for a $75 shop credit with the purchase/installation of their struts and shocks. As long as yours haven't failed yet it seems that you have the luxury of shopping around and getting it done at your convenience and the best price. Check a manual to be sure, but I think I'm remembering that it suggests that the mounts should be replaced if the struts are replaced and then the front end alignment needs to be checked upon completion. As always one thing can lead to another; good luck!
  • guillguill Posts: 94
    I don't see any reason why it wouldn't fit. No mechanical differences between the Villager/Quest engines. The only concern might be additional emissions equipment on the 94 that the 93 might not have, what I'm refering to is emissions gear that connects directly to the exhaust manifold like the O2 sensor on my Civic. If the manifold isn't too much I'd give it a shot.
  • jr714jr714 Posts: 24
    Guill-
    Thanks for the response. I ordered the manifold for the '93 Villager and they sent me one for a '94 Quest. They didn't tell me this, I inspected the part and that's what the tag said. I was concerned since the Haynes manual for the '93 Villager says the '94 and later models:
    1 - have a pipe connecting the front and rear manifolds, and
    2 - like you said have additional emissions gear attached.
    I did consult the mechanic who will be doing the work and he checked the part numbers and they both matched, so I'm going to let him try it. Thanks again.
  • cduongcduong Posts: 70
    I know this has been discussed before. What are possible causes and solutions. Thanks for your help
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,618
    The most frequent cause, on the late model ones at least, is not closing the gas cap tightly (3+ clicks). I think the escaping fumes depressurize the fuel system triggering the light. Usually the light will reset by itself after driving 2 or 3 tanks if this was the cause.

    That's the "easy" one - I'll let others chip in the other possible causes since I'm in over my head as it is.

    Steve
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  • AutoZone in our market has some radio spots advertising to read the diagnosis code on "check engine light" issues. We took the wife's 97 Quest there and they got a P0400 EGR code, but cross-referencing against the www.alldata.com technical service bulletins we found that indeed it was a cracked BPT hose just down from the EGR valve. Apparently, the 97 Quest has a problem with the BPT hose per a TSB issued 6/98.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,618
    Oh yeah, the ones here will do a free diagnostic of CELs. Nice service.

    Steve
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  • upset1upset1 Posts: 1
    I am completely frustrated! Since purchasing my new 2001 Villager Estate last October, the vehicle has been vibrating at highway speeds. You can feel and see it in the steering wheel, floor and seats. Very annoying.

    The vehicle was in the second dealership's possession for over 1 month last November. The first dealership said the vibration was "normal". The second dealership sweared it was the tires. They switched my 16" Goodyear Eagle LS tires 3 times and rebalanced and rebalanced and rebalanced. They even took the vehicle over to a nearby Ford Dealership for a road-force test. The tires and wheels always balanced. The second dealer did admit that the vibration was "unacceptable", but the Regional Ford Rep was of no help. They even said that everything (suspension, etc) "measured within specs".

    I got tired of leaving my vehicle at the dealership and lived with the vibration for a year.

    The other day I finally decided to get new tires. I have seen much feedback and purchased Yokohama Avid Touring tires (noted for their smoothness and comfort level). Guess what! Vibration STILL there!

    Other than getting the alignment and shocks/struts checked by another shop, what else could be causing this annoying vibration/shimmy? I was ready to go out and buy my dream Honda Odyssey, but I don't want to lose my shirt over this problem vehicle.

    Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,618
    Try an Advanced Search (linked on the left sidebar) for "vibration." You find a few dozen other posts about this issue, but few answers. If you've gone to the regional manager, I don't know how else you can escalate the issue unless you try for lemon law.

    Steve
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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Since you have replaced the tires, the vibration must be coming from some other part of the vehicle (unless you have had really bad luck getting a number of defective tires). It's probably something that rotates, which means it must be the wheels (out of round), drive axles, CV joints, or bearings. Could also be a tie rod end, or ball joint, or bad strut.

    Since you have eliminated the tires as a factor, it's a problem with the vehicle itself, and since it's still inder warranty, a dealer should fix it. Check in your owner's manual, there's probably a 800 number for Ford, and some kind of complaint resolution to follow. Definetly follow up on it, maybe start with your dealer again. See if he's willing to try something simple to start, like swapping all 4 wheels & tires from another Villager on his lot.

    Good luck to you, keep at it, and let us know what happens. Don't trade for a Odyssey yet (read some of the Odyssey boards here, you might get scared off anyway).

    Dave
  • bobk13bobk13 Posts: 1
    !996 VILLAGER, CHECKED ALL THE FUSES, EVERYTHING IS OKAY, WAITED FOR FROSTY MORNING, TO DOUBLE CHECK IF ANY RELAYS MAY BE BAD (REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER ON SAME CIRCUIT) IT WORKED. ARE THERE ANY OTHER THINGS I SHOULD CHECK BEFORE I GO TAKING ALL OF THE INSIDE PANEL OFF? I'M TRYING TO AVOID THIS, AND OF COURSE YES IT IS ALWAYS POSSIBLE THAT MY SON MAY HAVE SPILLED A SODA OR DROPPED A PENCIL INTO THE VENT.

    WHEN IT IS VERY QUIET YOU CAN HIT THE TOGGLE SWITCH THAT OPERATES THE FLOW FROM VENTS TO FLOOR. SO AT LEAST THAT WORKS.

    FOR MY NEXT CHALLENGE, DOOR LOCKS SEEM TO HESITATE, YOU PRESS EITHER THE KEY FOB OR THE ACTUAL DOOR POWER LOCK SWITCH AND MORE TIMES THAN NOT EITHER ONE OR SOMETIMES TWO OF THE LOCKS WILL HESITATE. THREE TIMES NOW THE LOCKS HAVE EITHER JUST UNLOCKED THEMSELVES OR UNLOCKED AS I WAS JUST GOING DOWN THE ROAD. OTHER THAN THAT I HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH IT.

    PLEASE ADVISE: SHOULD I CHANGE THE WATER PUMP AT THE SCHEDULED 105K MILE TIMING BELT SERVICE OR JUST LEAVE IT ALONE?
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Your rear blower motor is not working because of a bad circuit board at the rear control. I've heard of this problem before. This is a pretty easy fix if you have a soldering iron and know how to use it. You can solder a heavy gage jumper wire around the bad spot on the circuit board.


    Try looking here:


    http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/


    Hope this helps.


    Dave

  • Tires; what brand/model is the best deal? I live in the suburbs of New York City. I got a price of $51 for the original tires “General” that supposable came with the 98 villager for $51. How about Pirelli 400 someone told me that they are just the generic/base tires and aren’t even close to the real Pirellis’ . Also some said go with P215 70 R 15 but they aren’t the recommended 205 75 15. ?????????
  • The OE 205/75R15 Generals on the wife's 97 Quest were very disappointing. I called Continental/General customer service and they weren't willing to do anything so we went with a Goodyear Allegra replacement (similar to their Regatta 2) from the local wholesale club which has been outstanding. It came with a 75,000 mile warranty and now at 25,000+ miles looks like it will easily outperform its warranty! I'm shopping for some SUV replacement tires right now and have found the TireRack.com review and comments sections extremely helpful; good luck!
  • My father just put a set of Regatta2 tires on his Marquis (handling package 225/60/16). They are far superior to the stock Michelin XGTs that came on the car in terms of ride and road noise - although those Michelins wore like steel.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    I have been very happy with my Yokohama Avid Touring tires. About 12,000 miles and not showing much wear, where the original tires were well worn after 28,000 miles. The evaluations on Tire Rack were what led me to this tire also.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    Just curious. Can someone tell me if the engine oil capacity is different for the 2002 Quest vs previous years? Perhaps someone can look in their owner's manual and tell me what it says.

    My 2002 Quest owner's manual (section 9-2) says the capacity is only 4 quarts of oil if you're changing the oil filter; and 3 7/8ths quarts if you're not changing the oil filter. I thought my previous 99 Quest used around 4.5 quarts per change.

    The reason I'm asking is because I just had my oil changed, and I noticed the oil is above the overfill line (not good). Also, on the ticket, they've written down 5 quarts. From now on, I'll need to remind my dealer only use 4 quarts. Anyone else had that experience? Thanks.

    Revka
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,618
    I've had that experience, but I did it myself :-). My '99 takes ~4.5 quarts with a filter change. I put ~4.8 qts in when I stopped to double check the owner's manual. It was barely over the full mark so I ignored it.

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  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    That's a 1/2 quart less for the 2002 Quest. I'm wondering what kind of changes they've made on the engine specs since 99 to require less oil? Does anyone here know?

    Also, I'm wondering if I should have them redo my oil. If they put in 5 quarts, they put in 20% more than needed. What do people think? Would it hurt to have it that way for the next 3k miles?


    Revka

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,618
    That much overfill couldn't be good - I'd be concerned about fouling the sensors if nothing else. Best ask them to redo it or take a quart out I think.

    Dave? Corsica? Anyone?

    Steve, Host

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  • The Nissan manual for earlier Quests was very specific about not overfilling the oil, but it is easy enough to get the extra quart out if they use a marine type suction pump. Good luck!
  • My 2001 Quest SE takes about 4.5 quarts. That amount puts the oil level right to the top of the full range on the dip stick.

    Has anybody had an experience with a 1999-2002 Quest/Villager burning oil? I have 22,000 miles on my van and have never burned a drop.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    To Steve, cchalverson, and corsicachevy- Thanks for the feedback on the oil. My owners manual also mentions to not overfill.


    This morning I had the problem corrected. It turns out the oil capacity has changed to 4 quarts for 2002 Quests, because Nissan changed the size of the oil pan for 2002 models. Thanks again.

    Revka

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    My 99 Quest owner's manual I believe (this is from memory, you have been warned!) calls for 4 3/8 quarts when the oil & filter are changed.

    I've always changed my own oil and found that exactly 4 quarts brings it right up to the full mark on the dipstick. I'm guessing that they didn't make any changes to the later engines, just refined what they put in the manual as the capacity. I'd be surprised if they made a change to the oil pan on it just in time for the last year of production, but who knows?

    If your oil is over the full mark, I'd have them take some out.

    As far as burning oil, so far with 76,000 miles haven't experienced it yet. Though I did have a bad oil filter that was leaking a while back, enough that I had to add some oil. I've changed my oil & filter every 3,000-4,000 miles (using Castrol part synthetic), so I wouldn't expect much engine wear yet.

    Dave
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    Dhoff- That's a good point. My owner's manual also states that the capacity levels are approximate... and the actual refill capacity will depend on the temperature and drain time.


    Btw, I was just at the Auto Zone where their computers showed that both the 2001 and 2002 Quest oil capacity was "4 quarts" if changing the oil & filter. However, the 2000 and earlier models required more oil... at least according to their computers. Talk later.


    Revka

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

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