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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • My SE's tires Eagle LS are also rated for 45 psi Max. Just like gasguzz, I have set it to 40 psi. Origninally the van was delivered with 35 psi. Since I had never checked the glove compartment; I thought the Dealer made a mistake in pumping it to 35 psi. I guess we are OK as long as it is within the tire manufacturer's range. As suggested by pocahontas (Revka), it is a good idea to check with Nissan.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    To faruqim & Gasguzz: Well I have heard that more air in the tires will improve the mpg? Have either of you noticed an improvement with the 40 psi? Although, I think it might also make for a firmer ride. Yes/no? I actually keep my rear tires a pound or two lower (33/34 psi) to soften the ride a little. I rotate them every 5k to prevent abnormal wear.

    To everyone- Since I've seen a few posts from people mentioning that they have to clean their throttle on a regular basis, because it has a tendency to stick..., I thought I should mention there is a TSB out on that. Here are the details.

    TSB number: NTB00-083, Date: October 17, 2000

    APPLIED VEHICLE: 1999-00 Quest (V41)
    If a 1999-00 Quest exhibits the driveability incidents listed below, the cause may be throttle chamber deposits.

    ^ Idle speed fluctuation
    ^ Incorrect idle speed
    ^ Increased accelerator pedal resistance
    ^ Difficulty accelerating smoothly from a stop

    1. Check for and clean throttle chamber deposits as follows:
    A. Disconnect the air inlet duct from the throttle chamber.
    B. Open the throttle valve and check for deposits. If deposits exist, use genuine Nissan carburetor spray cleaner (P/N 999MP-A3001P) and a toothbrush (if needed) to remove all deposits.
    C. Re-connect the air inlet duct.

    2. Check the engine oil level and correct as necessary. Also, advise the customer that it is important not to overfill the engine oil level (i.e., not above the "H" mark on the dipstick). Maintaining proper engine oil level (not overfilling) will help prevent recurrence of these incidents. Refer to the Owner's Manual for the proper engine oil level.

    3. Start the engine and let it warm up (coolant temp = 70°C/158°F minimum) before performing the next step.

    4. Check and adjust (if necessary) the base engine idle speed using CONSULT (in "Work Support" mode). Refer to the EC section in the Service Manual for procedure details and specifications.

    Btw, prior to this tsb, many dealers were charging their customers a maintenance fee to do this... as opposed to fixing it on the 36/36 warranty. Hope this is helpful.


    (formerly "pocahontas")
    Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Thanks for posting that. I've become very familiar with steps 1 A-C, having done it in my garage 3 or 4 times now.

    Good thing to know about the oil level. I change my own oil, and I've noticed that 4 quarts exactly brings it up to "full" on the dipstick. The recommended amount in the owner's manual is I believe 4 3/8 quarts. Since I've been using 4 quarts, I've noticed less of a buildup of deposits in the throttle body.

  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    Increased mpg at 40psi... probably (but at an insignificant amount I don't notice). I did notice increased traction response but at a stiffer ride (your choice, I prefer performance over comfort with the wife's/toddlers car). Is there an increase in road noise... probably (but it's not like the Quest/Villager is Lexus quiet to begin with).
    Car makers GENERALLY set psi specs to augment comfort and noise levels, and are conservative in not knowing the EXACT use at the consumer level. When the van was delivered I noticed the "soft profile" and sure enough they were set up to spec at 35psi. I tested them the following day (with the "normal" load minus the family) at 40psi and "now, they better". The Eagle-LS is a performance series and can be tweaked to fit your driving/use (meaning I would not use this setup if I regularly haul bags of Quikrete for 200 miles).
  • planning to buy a 93 villager with 72K miles on it.. the car looks in good condition.. any particular problems that i shud look for or worry about? 93 villager owners, any input?
    Also, whats a good price for this...
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,910
    Check out Edmunds True Market Value for pricing info. And watch out for the manifold studs (click on Subtopics in the box to see the problems list).

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  • Thanks Steve.. i am planning to purchase this from a private party.. i test drove it and checked whatever i cud visually do.. can u give me some tips about some specific things to look for.. how do i check those manifold studs?
    btw, ur site is very informative... great work
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,910
    Thank you but that's a different Steve running the Villager Quest FAQs :-) (if you do mean this Edmunds site, it's the Town Hall members that should take the credit).

    I'm no wrench turner. I'd suggest paying a mechanic to have the van looked at and let him or her check the manifold studs. Other stuff to look at in that vintage car (any car) would be the A/C, brakes, tranny, etc.

    The other specific Quest/Villager problems that I can recall off-hand are the door locks and a rough idle from a dirty throttle body. Good luck!

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  • jcorkjcork Posts: 3
    In response to #680, I have the same starting problems. Cranking the engine over and over, the van won't start. So I stop, turn the key off all the way, then try again and it usually starts after that. I have checked everything, I cannot find the problem. I am too cheap to take it to a dealer. I wonder if it is my ignition switch or something simple like that...
  • jcorkjcork Posts: 3
    Well, I spent a couple of hours here, reading every posting and I have to say that we all have something in common: A van that is like any other auto in the world - imperfect. However, I still like mine. Here is a list of problems I have had since day one:
    1. Brake squeal - 2 sets of pads and one rotor (driver side) later they still squeak.
    2. 105,000 mile timing belt went out at 70,000 miles. I replaced the water pump, serpentines, and an idler while I was at it.
    3. Fuel stench and leaking from tank, found out that there was a recall AFTER I paid $80 to get it fixed at dealer. Nissan reimbursed me after I called them and faxed the bill to them.
    4. Steering wheel squeals. Still does it, I don't care.
    5. Tranny had been slipping into what feels like "neutral" during traffic stop and go. Pops back into gear by itself. Had it flushed at 40k, and again at about 76k after this problem surfaced, seems to be ok now.
    6. Wont start sometimes. It cranks and cranks but doesn't fire up. I am still struggling with this one...
    7. Check engine light - found fried hose behind the EGR valve where you cannot see and you can barely get your hand into. This is after I replaced all hoses and the light still came on, took me 2-3 months to figger out. Car still ran fine with that crazy light on...
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,910
    My non-OEM front pads squeal too; usually it quits after warming up. Are yours Nissan brake pads?

    The rotting hose is another issue that I've seen pop up now and then. Cheap fix if you know what to look for.

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  • I am having a odd problem. I bought a New 2001 quest SE and had the dealer install a nissan classII tow hitch. recently I tried to use it and found no power is in the hitch wiring. I followed it back and it is not connected to anything. The deal order a part and I brought it in today. This part will not hook up to my wiring and the dealer is being told by nissan that my Van has a special handling package that they do not recomend towing with so the factory does not wire for a tow hitch.

    The broucher has no mention of this and list the hitch as an option. and the manufacture sticker from my van mentions noght about an optional handling pakage and list 3500 max towing capacity....Just wanted to know if anyone else has run into anything like this? I plan on call my lawyer if they can't get this resolved...Mike
  • jcorkjcork Posts: 3
    No, they are not Nissan pads. I try not to buy anything from the dealer. I got them at Autozone, they are lifetime warranteed. I don't know if they are semi metallic or not, but I don't think they are.

    The new rotor also came from Autozone. I took great care to clean the rotor surface during installation with new pads. I think within 1000 miles, it was warped again. One thing I did not do was torque the wheel bolts. I have a calibrated elbow and it never crossed my mind. After reading here, I think that may be my problem as I have alloy wheels.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,910
    Well, I went to the dealer specifically to get OEM pads, because a Nissan tech in MD (and a former TH host) said that they were worth the extra $$$ (no squealing).

    Naturally the dealer was out of parts that day and substituted an unknown aftermarket pad without informing me beforehand. And they squeal.

    I'm gonna squeal when I take it in for my 60k checkup :-)

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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    There is nothing I know of that would prohibit towing with your van. It might just be that dealer doesn't know how the wiring hooks up on the SE. The trailer wiring harness is different than the GLE. A call to Nissan customer service may be in order here. There should be a number in the owner's manual.

    I know there is a connector inside the right rear plastic trim panel on mine (inside the cargo area) that looks like it may be the connector used for trailer wiring. You may want to have them pull this panel and look.

    Regardless, wiring for trailer lights is not rocket science. If your dealer can't figure it out, you might want to take it to a place that installs hitches. They will have much more experience with this, and should be able to figure it out.

  • wg45678wg45678 Posts: 55
    If you got Autozone pads -- and they're squealing, I'd get them out as soon as possible. I made the mistake of buying the previous set from Autozone. When they started squealing, it turned out the reason was the passenger side outside pad had disintegrated and the metal backing plate was rubbing on the rotor.

    My father-in-law had the same problem with a set of Autozone pads, on a Chrysler minivan, same wheel and pad. I'd guess they can't take heat.

    Currently I've Cardon pads (and new calipers as well since the van has 95k miles on it), and they don't squeal at all. Two different samples, two different cars, same problem. I'll never buy their brandname pads again.
  • Has anyone here figured out a good way to change the regular air filter (not cabin filter) on their Quest? Seems like it's pretty difficult to get in there.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,910
    I think the trick is to make sure you unlatch all the clamps. There's a couple along the bottom that are hard to find. (4 clamps total, iirc). Then spread the filter box apart enough to get the new filter seated snugly before you clamp it back together.

    This seems to work ok on my '99 GXE and I suspect the earlier and later models are similar.

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  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    It also helps to remove one end of the rubber boot that connects the air box to the throttle body. Just unscrew the hose clamp at one end, and pull off the boot. This allows you to spread apart the air box halves much easier. Disconnect the end at the throttle body, and take the opportunity to check for gunk inside, and clean it out if necessary.

  • We have been looking in that area on the drivers side near the tailgate. The Manufacture had a tow hitch cable wired for the deal to pull down and place in the hitch. But if you follow the cable up the other end is behind the panel you talked about with nothing to plug it into.

    The Dealer is now looking for a 3rd party plug to wire my van as Nissan told them they do not manufacture an adapter for my van due to the handling package(I'm asuming because it's an SE). I have put a call into Nissan and am waiting for thier response....Thanks for the help
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