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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • Check engine light on our '95 Villager 55k miles is on, but not all the time. If I take it out on the freeway at 70-75 for a few minutes, it goes out. Back to surface streets, CEL back on. Engine running as smooth as it ever has, passing emissions test with flying colors. I suspect an errant sensor somewhere. Any ideas?

  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    There is a set or electrical resistors that controls the fan speed. It's either part of the switch, or a separate resistor pack associated with the switch. One or more of the resistors are burned out, with the result that the fan only works at full speed.

    The fix is either to repalace the resistor pack or the switch. If you can locate a reputable independent mechanic they should be able to fix it pretty easily. I don't know how much it would cost though. If you call your dealer's service department, they sould be able to tell you what the parts and labor cost for the fix.

    Hope this helps.

  • Thanks for the information regarding our 99 Quest fan problem. We will call the service dept. tomorrow and find out the cost for the fix.
  • nicktnickt Posts: 2
    I have a 96 GXE with 72K miles and the check engine light just came on. It seems to run just fine. Do I really need to have the dealer check it out?
    Any suggestions?
  • mgr4mgr4 Posts: 2
    My 95 villager with 69,000 miles, has a similar problem, except my light comes on when I get on the freeway at 70-75 miles per hour. The minute I reduce speed at my exit ramp it goes off. Car runs perfect the whole time. This has been going on for about two months. I hate to take it in to the dealer since the car is running very well. Any ideas.
  • cduongcduong Posts: 70
    Try to open and then close gas tank cap... That could do the trick... good luck
  • If the gas cap is left off for any length of time while the engine is running, the OBD will think it's a fuel pressure/delivery problem, and trigger a CEL. Other than using the scanner to read & reset the CEL, the only way to clear the memory is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. This may also reset the engine computer, which means driveability problems until it relearns combustion/altitude/fuel parameters.

    mgr4: I'm letting mine run til the next scheduled service stop, or something different happens (my wife nagging me about it may qualify)!

  • I have a 1994 Nissan Quest and my question is that I was installing a JVC 12 Disc CD
    Changer with a FM Modulator, well I hooked everything up and when the time came to test everything, my radio/tape didn't turn on. I checked all the wires, and all the fuses. Then when I took out all the wires and put them back, the clock turned on for about less than 1 second then turned off again. I checked everything again and the same thing happened

    I would very much appreciate if someone can help me with my problem..

  • esp63esp63 Posts: 27
    About a month ago, I mentioned(nissan quest thread)that my brake fluid level had inexplicably gone down and that my front brakes were chattering. Well, I just had the front pads replaced and rotors turned. At 32k miles, this is the earliest that I've ever had to perform such operations on any vehicle that I've owned but I'm willing to accept that the brakes work hard to slow such a considerable load. However, I discovered something a little more disturbing about my rear brakes. The rear brake cylinder had been leaking and was likely the cause for my needing to top-off the reservior. I'm beginning to think that the vehicle is going to become a nightmare just about the time the mfg. warranty expires. I also had one power lock actuator replaced and am going back to replace more- the actuators were making a grinding sound when the locks were toggled. I'm also noticing a consistent chirping sound during up-shifts from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th under moderate acceleration.

    At first, we had some minor fit and finish issues and thought nothing of it. But now, we have some mileage on the vehicle and it seems to be aging pre-maturely. My '93 Villager had one issue(manifold bolts) in the 6 years that I owned it. I expected the next generation to be an improvment, not a step back. We'll see...
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,990
    I had actuator problems for a while with my '99 GXE, but they have calmed down, and haven't chattered for many months now (actually haven't thought about them for a long time until I read your post).

    I do think I need to clean the throttle body....

    These updates are nice to see, warts and all - anyone else have anything to report?

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  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    in the main Nissan Quest discussion, and thought it would also be appreciated here:

    These are problems I've experienced so far with my 99 SE Quest:

    -Noisy brake booster replaced twice: 12k, 25k. Noticed the creaking earlier on. Dealer claims noise is normal, but replaced it with my persuasion. Noise improved on second repair. Despite noise, brakes have always worked fine.
    -Vibration/rattles under the dash fixed at 29k. Was there for quite a while, but waited till it was more obvious.
    -Middle row window latch replaced because of clicking noise. There is a tsb out on this.
    -Noisy Blower Motor replaced at 33k. Dealer said they could not hear noise, but went ahead and replaced it.
    -Power door switch replaced at 33k. Door was periodically locking itself. There is also a tsb on this.
    -Knock sensor replaced at 33k. Btw, this malfunction will only be noticed via the computer consult. It will not trigger the check engine light. Not a bad idea to check this out before the 36k/36m warranty expires.

    Persisting problems at 33.6k: occasional vibration heard from right dash or door. Occasional rough idle. Hope this is helpful. I'll keep you posted on anything else that occurs.

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  • I recently purchased a '93 Quest. It is very clean inside and out. However, I am having problems with the A/T shifting late. When it does shift it shifts harder than normal. Has anyone had similar experience with same year? Any ideas on what the problem is? I have had it checked by three different sources and they don't seem to agree on what the problem is?
  • First thing I'd do is service the tranny... a fluid & filter change can go a long way to curing problems such as that... unless you know it's been less than 30k miles since it was last done, it would be worth the 60 or so bucks, IMO.

  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    It is possible your problem is due to a bad throttle position sensor.

    You might want to take a look through the archives of the VillagerQuest mailing list. I have seen similar problems addressed there.

    As Paul mentions, it's not a bad idea to have your transmission fluid & filter changed anyway, as preventative mainenance.


  • I have a '94 Quest which exhibited the same problem (very hard shifts from 1st to 2nd), before it decided a few weeks later to just leave it in 1st at any speed. The problem was a faulty Transmission Control Unit (TCU) - a burnt connector wire was the obvious symptom.

    After replacing the TCU, it ran another few weeks before the same wire burnt in the replacement unit. Clearly, there's something awry in the Electrical system, but I don't know what.
  • rickrozrickroz Posts: 26
    I make sure I get mine changed every 20-25k miles. The first time I had this service done at the dealer, the service rep said it was a good idea to do this because the transmission in the Quest has no filter. Has anyone heard this??
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    2k1 VillSport. Per the service manual, "The transaxle does not does not contain a conventional fluid filter. The filter cannot be changed without removing the valve body. Changing of the filter is not a regular maintenance item."
    So I am about to have a "factory" mechanic dismantle a normally functioning tranny just to change the filter. And with just a fluid change, I'm doing that myself.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    You know, this is something I've been wondering about myself. In my 99 Quest owners' manual, it doesn't really state when to replace, accept for in "note 1" where it says: "if you're towing, using a car-top carrier, or driving on rough or muddy roads, change (not just inspect) fluid at every 30,000 miles or 24 months.

    Otherwise it just says "i" inspect... all the way through.... I asked a mechanic I know, and he suggested I have this done at 60k since I don't tow anything. I've seen other suggestions online to have this changed as high as 100k. Seem a little high to me.

    Now my own Nissan service advisor suggests every 30k, but then they are in the businesss of earning your hard earned dollars. Not to mention he does state that a 30k tranny change is NOT required for fulfilling any lease requirements. If I decide to purchase my lease, I'll probably changed the tranny fluid shortly there after... or no later than 45k just to be safe. ;-)

    Anyway, my 2 cents.

    Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
  • gasguzzgasguzz Posts: 214
    "So I am about to have a "factory" mechanic dismantle a normally functioning tranny just to change the filter."
    Correction: I am NOT about to... (above).
    It still is a mechanical tranny and fluid is cheap at 30k intervals, so I will be doing that maint (especially since I own the van - cheap insurance).
  • dsittler -- Some of the '93s (like mine that has the trailer towing package) came with dual mode (economy/power) tranmission programming. Might check the obvious and make sure the tranmission is not set in 'power' mode. It does delay the shifts and make the shifts feel more abrupt. The switch is in the pod to the right of the steering wheel.

    I change the transmission fluid/filter every 30k, manual or automatic transmission (and I don't do trailer towing). Just noticed a few months ago, after paying for it all these years, that the transmission pan has a drain plug on the bottom. Never had a car with a drain plug before; always paid to have it changed because I didn't want to be cleaning tranny oil off my driveway...
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