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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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  • som1178som1178 Posts: 2
    Last two weeks, my 95 Mercury Villager (79,000 miles) is displaying Check Engine Light on. This typically happens when I am driving up a mild uphill slope at highway speed (above 55 mph). At times the light disappears at the end of the slope, at other times the light continues to display for a little while. This has never happened in city driving, or on level highways. I got a mechanic look under the hood. The EGR/BPT hose is fine. Fueld pressure pump, gas cap, crankshaft, timing belts are okay (these are the usual suspects). Before heading to the dealer, is there anything else that I could look into ? Does the fact that this light shows up only on uphill at highway speed give any clues ?
  • bklovettbklovett Posts: 1
    Any body else have this problem? It's 102 outside, and I turn on the A/C. It immediately blows hot. I don't mean like no freon hot, I mean the HEATER is on HOT. I start to fool with the temp. control, turning it down, and the blower slows (as if the heater is on in winter, and it blows less as you set the thermostat down). When I turn the temp. control up, it blows harder. This thing actually is controlling the heater. No matter what I do, I can't get the A/C to switch on. The little green light by the A/C button is on, I cn even hear the compressor kick in, but the heater continues to run. Am I nuts?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    Rabaul, any luck with yours? Turns out the switch is easy to get at - just one screw will let you take the bezel out with switches attached.

    My driver's side switch is balking at going up. If I hold it in the up position for ~30 seconds or more, it will finally kick in. I can get the cover off the switch box, and there's no obvious corrosion on the circuit board on top, but I haven't figured out how to remove the switch caps to check them or the underside of the circuit board. Continuity to the motor seems fine, so I'm pretty sure it's the switch.

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  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    Too many unanswered questions in here lately - where did our wrench turners go?

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  • wood14wood14 Posts: 1
    Bummer! Driving home a few days ago, traveling on a too-busy toll road, the oil light started to come on and off intermittently. It was too dangerous to stop, no pull-offs, after dark, etc. So I drove 10 miles to next exit. No verdict from the mechanic yet but obviously serious damage due to the noise and lack of oil. 110K miles, husband checks oil religiously, van is solid, no serious maintenance issues up to now. purchased used w/ 35K, minor issues with dash lights, a/c lines, brakes sticking. Anybody had similar experience?? Will know more tomorrow... sign me "Wish I'd stopped"!
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    Mechanical problems in the dark aren't fun for anyone, and stopping on the side of a freeway in the dark wouldn't have been too safe anyway, so I don't blame you a bit. Could be the oil leak is related to the engine problem anyway and stopping immediately may not have made any difference (a good line to try on hubby at least <g>). Hope it's fixable cheaply enough.

    Back to the window, I pulled the switch out and looked at it. It's not something you can disassemble without breaking the housing. So I put it back together and tried to listen to the relay clicking, etc. Sure enough, I could hear some action around the motor area when I'd try to raise the window. Pushing gently outward on the window helped, so now I'm thinking the tracks are just filthy.

    I sprayed some lubricating oil along the edge of the window (too lazy to take the door panel off again just yet) and helped it up and down a few times, and it seems a bit better. So maybe that'll help for a while.

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  • shohjwhshohjwh Posts: 10
    Hi, guys.
    I have a Nissan quest 1999 ~65000 mile. Couple of days ago, I found rear air condition did not work, just air even front air condition is no problem. It's weird. Please help me. Thanks in advance.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    If no air blowing out, check this message:

    dhoff Oct 14, 2002 8:12pm

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  • shohjwhshohjwh Posts: 10
    air is blowing out with hot air(this is Texas. ^.^)
    Front air is cool but still rear is just air blowing even though running 30 mins.

    shohjwh
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    Could be different things I guess - low refrigerant charge, bad module or controller somewhere, etc.

    Anyone?

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  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    From Edmunds' Maintenance Guide, I found a couple (NHTSA) technical service bulletins regarding the a/c for a 99 Quest. Do these look similar to your problem?

    Component Description:
    17. AIR CONDITIONER NHTSA Number: 629172
    Bulletin Number: NTB02009
    Bulletin Date: FEB 2002
     
    Vehicle: 1999 Nissan Quest
    Summary:
    SOME VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT FRONT AIR CONDITIONER OUTLETS BLOWING COLD AIR, BUT REAR A/C OUTLETS BLOWING WARM AIR. *TT

    Component Description:
    18. AIR CONDITIONER NHTSA Number: 630795
    Bulletin Number: NTB02009A
    Bulletin Date: MAR 2002
     
    Vehicle: 1999 Nissan Quest
    Summary:
    SUBJECT REGARDING REAR A/C OUTLETS BLOW WARM AIR. *YD
     

    ------------------------------------------------------------------ ---

    The second tsb may be an update on the first one. Edmunds' Maintenance Guide only offers a summary of the TSB. For information on how to get the complete Technical Service Bulletin, check out this article from Edmunds: You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin. On a couple of occasions, I've given my dealer service the TSB number/summary and they've been able to access the complete manufacturer tsb... and follow up. Hope this is helpful. Please keep us posted on your situation.

    Revka
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  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    Thanks Revka! I keep forgetting to check on the TSBs.

    When are you going to give us an update on your Quest over in the Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager board? You're overdue :-)

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  • shohjwhshohjwh Posts: 10
    Hi, guys. Thanks.
    Now i'm gonna get full TSB and fix problem.
    I will let you know what it was.
    Thanks.
    shoh
  • som1178som1178 Posts: 2
    I had the Mercury Dealer do the diagnostics. He says its sending a code which indicates bad O2 sensor. I found a posting on Edmunds.com where someone was told the exact same thing by his dealer, he got the O2 sensor repaired for $200, the light was back on after a few days. The dealer would not refund the replacement O2 sensor, nor would he guarantee this will solve the problem. He says there is no way to independently test the O2 sensor. What should I do? Is there any harm in running the van under such condition? I have passed inspection before the problem occurred (it will be two more years before the next inspection is due), and my gas mileage has not deteriorated.
  • shohjwhshohjwh Posts: 10
    Hi, guys.
    I inspected my car and they charged ~$700 to fix. I asked about TSB and they said TSB is just help to find out problem, even though it describe the same problem. It's not recall and they don't provide VIN so, I have to pay. -.-;
    Is there any way to save my money?\
    Thanks.
    shoh
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    That's a typical dealer price for replacing the rear sensor - the part itself costs around $60. You may find an independent mechanic to do the work for less money.

    The van should generally run better with a new sensor(s) (assuming the diagnosis is correct).

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  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    "The best thing about finding a TSB that seems to cover a persistent problem in your vehicle is that dealerships will make the repair for free, provided that

    Your vehicle is under warranty;

    Your service advisor and/or technicians are able to confirm that the problem exists."

    You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)

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  • Hi,
    The rear wiper on my '96 villager stopped working. The washer fliud works but the wiper does not. I checked the fuse and it is fine. I checked the motor at the mechanic and it seems fine too, Can someone please post their experience if they solved such a problem, such as what and where to look etc... thanks...
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    Still struggling with that wiper, Activex111?

    My guess is that some gears are stripped. That would explain why the motor sounds like it's working, but you're getting no action.

    Maybe you could find another motor in a junkyard and swap it out to test, and maybe return it if that doesn't fix it.

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  • johnwngjohnwng Posts: 24
    Have been, for a few months, wiggling my Quest's headlight wires to fix the headlight problem. Got very tired of doing this but wouldn't like to spend over $200 to replace the whole assembly by dealer. Just found out Autozone has a replacement socket for Quest. Only $5 each. It was also rather easy to replace it. Basically cut off the bad socket and connect the three wires. Took me only 10-15 minutes. Just wanted to share this with everybody.
  • I have a '99 Villager Escape where the cruise control doesn't work. A few seconds after turning it on or trying to use one of the control buttons the "Cruise" light starts flashing. Nothing else happens. Any ideas?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    Try going to an auto parts store and see if there are any codes in the OBDII system. Sometimes that can trigger stuff. And I've read that a bad or shorted out rear brake light can affect the cruise. Sounds odd, but maybe the wiring is related or something.

    My power window switch (or window guide) continues to act up and my AC button doesn't always work the first time now either. Maybe if I drove the van through a pool full of hot solder these gremlins would go away.

    On the bright side, the chattering actuators in my sliders haven't complained for a couple of years now.

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  • I got the following problem with my Villager (1997, 146K miles).
    Time to time, when pressing gas pedal on the stop light, the acceleration is very weak.
    (I heard word "hesitation" - could it be used to describe this?)
    I need to release pedal and press it once again to make it work.
    Then, while driving 40-50 mph if I am trying to push gas pedal slightly (let's say to go up hill),
    the engine reacts like I am pressing gas pedal intermittently - half second on, half second off.
    To cure this I release the gas pedal and press it with more energy.
    Then, after 4-5 such strange reactions, the engine stopped to respond to gas pedal at all and stalled. I waited 1-2 minutes and was able to start it again.
    At that time I had 1/4 of fuel, air conditioner was on.
    After I fill gas tank, I cannot reproduce this problem again.

    A year ago I had similar problem, at that time Check Engine light went on.
    Servicemen checked fuel pump, the pressure was within requirements.
    Based on their experience with Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager, they suggested
    to replace fuel injectors. They replaced 5 of 6 fuel injectors, and I had no problems with engine since then.
    However, now I got it again.
    Do you know what could cause this problem?
    Fuel injector (I still got one old or maybe the replaced injectors appears not so good)
    or fuel pump is dying, or something else?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    Replaced your O2 sensors lately? They degrade over time, and you're up there in miles. Maybe have the mass airflow sensor checked too.

    Another suggestion is to clean or replace the distributor cap (link)

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  • robbk6robbk6 Posts: 13
    Glad I could help out.
  • Hi, the A/c on my 96 Villager is not cooling enough particularly at lower speeds during hotter time of the day(in the evenings it is OK).. At speeds higher than 55mph, it cools OK, still not very good .. There are no leaks.. most likely the refrigernt is low.. is there a way o add the refrigerant (R134?) on our own? i am no expert on this so any feedback is appreciated... Thanks,
  • GutsyGutsy Posts: 13
    Hello,
    My passenger window on my 2000 Villager estate just quit on me. Of course the window is "down" and won't go up! It was working a little the other day when I fiddled with the switch and the window was intching up once in a while... now it's not working at all.

    Anyway ... I saw the posts here about the electrical problem issues with the door switches and the window switches going bad, but did anyone here have the same problem only to learn it was a "relay" instead of the switch or motor? I called the dealer and they want $78 just to tell me what it could be... and around $70 for the entire switch housing (6 switches) if it's the switches. Also, I can't return the switches for a refund if I use them, so I thought it "may" be the relay. Anyone here who may have had a similar problem they wish to share?

    Also, you can place me among the ranks of those with "throttle body"/pedal sticking problems. It just started this week and now the window quit on me at the same time! ... When it rains it pours!

    Thanks in advance fr any advise.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,228
    My driver's side window ('99 Quest) is doing the same thing but still manages to go up. I had the window motor replaced under warranty a couple of years ago when I complained of it being slow. I'm not convinced mine is related to the switches, but I guess I'll wait until below freezing weather to find out, since with my luck, that's when it'll totally die.

    One member reported that he was able to buy a switch housing with the understanding that he could return it if that didn't fix the problem. There's only two connections to attach when you swap out the switch housing, so it would be fast to check if you could get your hands on a known good one.

    I haven't checked a salvage yard, but that's another possibility. For what the dealer charges, you may be able to buy an entire door - parts is parts!

    If you pop the interior door panel off and peel the plastic dust cover back, you should be able to reach through one of the holes in the sheet metal and help the window back up. That could buy you some looking around time.

    Please let us know the results.

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  • GutsyGutsy Posts: 13
    Hi Steve,

    THanks for your reply to my post. I think I'll do just that ... and see if I can get a used set of switches first. My neighbo2 2 blocks away owns a local body shop. I think I'll ask him to see if he can find a vilager door with the switches.

    I'll let you now what happens. Thanks again!
  • GutsyGutsy Posts: 13
    Steve,

    Just wanted to let you know that the window switch was bad afterall on my 2000 Villager Estate. I couldn't find a used Villager in the junk yard so I went with my instincts ... I purchased the switch assembly at $72 ... too a chance ... and it worked! :-)

    Take care
    Dave
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